Kromrey, Meg, Bedini, Leedskalnin machine what do you think?

[Bradley Malone]

Is there any "solid" proof that the kromrey needs iron or any particular pole piece? I know certain characteristics are needed for the build up and collapse of magnetism. that is why I have not cast cores. If I can find out that it does work then that is perfect. But if steel will work...why would I go through paying 38$ for 1 pound of the liquid stuff (witch I would need more) and the steel shot, when I could just buy a 1/2' thick 1' x 1' sheet of steel for around 504 then just machine them out? If I can’t find iron and I am going to use steel anyways I think I will just get normal steel and cut out exactly what I want. It will make it look good to witch is never bad thank you for the input though had no idea there was a metal putty out there that may come in handy someday!

[Tom C]

you need ductile iron for the cores, you can get ductile iron rod from McMaster carr in 1 inch diameter pieces. it machines easily on a small lathe. you need a non ferrous shaft, brass works well. the magnets need to be barium ferrite. the pole ends of the coil need to be as close as possible to the magnetic keepers. you want a good solid magnetic lock.

Tom C

[Volty]

Hi Tom,

Why Barrium-Ferrite magnets "Need" for Kromrey? VTA info says they are not conductive and Ohm meter is how to spot them per no conduct.

IF it electrical isolation that is needed, why not just shrink tube the magnets?

Thanks in advance for your revealing answer ! :-)

[Bradley Malone]

I have been wondering the barium thing for a while also... I have heard that they can be made to self oscillate and things like that but I don't quite understand how that works in the kromrey. If the magnet poles oscillate so north becomes south becomes north and so-on. When do they flip and why? I can imagine if you had a magnet next to a coil and made it oscillate it would induce oscillations in the coil therefore power. but in a system that makes a magnetic loop and breaks it...what is the purpose of needing oscillating magnets when the coils already rotates to oscillate the opposite poles to the coil.

as for the iron stuff THANK YOU Tom c I looked all over probably about 50-60 searches and could not find iron anywhere....then you throw one name at me and they have everything. AWSOME!

[Tom C]

Volty,

so here is my answer for the magnets..... John said they are the only ones that work correctly in the configuration to harvest the energy correctly. barium magnets don't mind being switched... not in a pole sense, but in a make/break sense. and John has built kromrey's with different magnets, he said the only ones that work are BaFe.... there is also a "grind" test you can do to them to determine the magnet. all the info is in the kromrey DVD http://www.teslagenx.com/dvds/eftv_1...?category=dvds

as far as I know JB has the only working device on the planet.... that is O.U. there are several in his shop, he only runs the one in the DVD. the magnets get cold, the air coming out of the machine is cold.

Tom C

[bigmotherwhale]

barium is a good dielectric resonator material. it has a slow magnetic relaxation time, and a high reflectivity to the em spectrum (opacity) and therefore a very good electrical conductor
this is why its used as a transducer as (barium titinate) and as a contrast agent in Magnetic Resonance Imaging, and in high temperature superconductors

also trying to condition magnets sounds like hogwash to me.

[Bradley Malone]

Does anyone know if he uses barium ferrite in the 7109671 patent. if he uses them in that i will definatly switch my game plan but as mine will work just like that patent with an extra magnetic loop if he uses neo's to get it to work i may still try those. Aslo would i even be able to find 1/2" x 1/2" x 1" barium magnets from what i understand they are kinda hard to find. The dimensions are kind of important to what i am trying so i have to have those size magnets (whatever kind i use).

[Tom C]

I do not know, depending upon when he made the machine it is highly likely. the big magnets that are on the idle motor on the shaft of the Ferris wheel are also BaFe. you can get them from China now I believe, for a long time they were banned....

http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/bari...te-magnet.html

Tom C

[Faraday88]

you need ductile iron for the cores, you can get ductile iron rod from McMaster carr in 1 inch diameter pieces. it machines easily on a small lathe. you need a non ferrous shaft, brass works well. the magnets need to be barium ferrite. the pole ends of the coil need to be as close as possible to the magnetic keepers. you want a good solid magnetic lock.

Tom C

Hi Tom C,

What about Aluminum Shaft. Easy to machine as well... the core (with their pole pieces)will have their center through which is passed the Non-Magnetic Shaft, don't you think the Magnetic path is narrowed near the centre..?
Rgds,
Farady88.

[Bradley Malone]

i found some that are 24 x 12 x 10 mm i think those are the closest size i can find. as for the magnetic shaft my rotor that holds the magnets will either be aluminum or plastic of some sort. i am leaning towards aluminum because if i cut notches into the rotor to slide the magnets in then the magnets are "shielded " on three sides ...i believe that leedskalnin was the one that talked about wrapping one material around another to make a stronger pole?

I did some research on the bariums last night...came accross this http://books.google.com/books?id=0Rm...illate&f=false has anyone tried getting power from the blotch wall like this when charging discharging a magnetic loop. Such as puting a bifilar that is shorted on one end up to the blotch wall of a running kromrey type device.

[Tom C]

Brass works the best, aluminum is semi magnetic the magnetic loop is altered with aluminum.

Tom C

[Bradley Malone]

I have been thinking about the magnets all day and something clicked a bit I think. In the EFTV kromrey video john talks about the blotch wall expanding and collapsing because of the extension of the magnetism into the loop then the collapse once the core leaves. Well in the paper about conditioning barium ferrite it says he used 60 Hz AC as a flip flop mechanism by firing current at the peak to set the magnetism then fire it opposite in the trough of the AC wave to set it the other way, Then once it is conditioned after repetition he would use the AC as an exciter to get the poles to flip flop (oscillate) witch would cause the blotch wall to disappear then re-appear the opposite polarity. That sounds familiar! and as I talked about in a former post the way of winding the coils is you wind clockwise and anticlockwise on the same coil...But you need two cores wound this way to get a positive and negative so is it possible that there was another coil on the opposite side of the magnet with the top wound to give positive negative (at the shorted end connection) then back to positive and vice versa on the bottom then connect one of each together to complete the circuit just as the kromrey coil circuit. The theory about counter rotating vortices is popular nowadays and Walter Russell says its the base of life basically...so to me if you set up or collapse a blotch wall the two vortices would wind energy into the center(blotch wall) then split to there respective sides causing the poles to charge and become a magnet of that polarity. So if you have two counter-wound coils over the blotch walls and you collapse and destroy the field I think there could be something to it.

* Brass is an option to. I definitely wouldn't mind seeing a shiny brass rotor spinning in this thing

[Ajay]

I built a G Field device with rotating neodymium magnets and an alternating open/ closed magnetic flux path through the iron. I used a brass shaft, but I mounted the stationary inductors on aluminum. I quickly learned that this was a disadvantage, and replaced it with a wood support. Although I used very powerfull magnets, I only ever got about 4-5 watts out. The key to the cold energy effect is LC resonance. The coils capacitance and inductance must be ascertained. When the coils are resonant, the magnets make and break the magnetic loop, and it resonates the coils like a ringing bell. The lower the coils resistance, the higher the frequency of the "choking" action upon the stored up energy, which prodces the radiant effect. The capacitance needs to be as high as possible with the lowest practical resistance, which is why Bedini wound it the way he did. It is simply genius. Replicate it to these specs and I guarantee success. Resonance was the key the whole time, just like Tesla's hairpin circuit and Stan Meyers spark plug.

[Ajay]

"A question was recently posed on the Agilent equipment mailing list asking why a particular Agilent LCR meter showed an inductor with "negative inductance."

The short answer to the question is that above the self-resonant frequency of an inductor, it "looks like" a capacitor and since capacitance is negative inductance, it all makes perfect sense. Although short and correct, a more detailed discussion may be useful to those encountering for the first time the self-resonant frequency of an inductor."
Source:
http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/self-resonant_frequency_of_inductors.htm

[Bradley Malone]

Resonance was the key the whole time

I have believed this for a long time. i saw a video once of a guy puting a lc tank in resonance...then he would put another coil that had the same resonant value next to it and pull power from it without effecting current in the first. along with walter russell basically saying a resonant exchange is what makes the whole universe spin the way it does.

of topic but i just came accross a really cool effect from a motor a built over the past few days. I built a lindemann attraction motor using a reed switch to switch a transistor pulling an iron piece into alignment then switching the reed off and allow the motor to continue... when i powered it up it ran fine and very very fast (about 9500 rpm) i unpluged it because it just kept getting faster. i am only pulsing the bar once per revolution ignoring the other alignment at 180 degrees. because the motor runs on the lc created by the drive coil i used a small coil and only one magnet for the reed. causing very high speed. but the cool thing came after running the motor. i have a car headlight between the diode on the collector and battery +....during the motor running it would glow dimly from the back if when the reed switched off. but what happened was i acidentally brought the reed between the iron rotor and a magnet and it instantly began to oscillate. the light glowed about twice as bright as when the motor was running and the transistor and coil NEVER got hot. after about 30 seconds of this oscillation humming away with the light glowing i blew the diode on the collector and the oscillation stopped.

the thing i can't get my head around is that once the diode blew so that the back emf could not be shunted into the light bulb it stopped....if the reed closes it should still cause a pulse regardless of after the pulse it can be absorbed by the bulb. so why would the diode blowing stop the oscillation? i'll try to make a video of the device and show what i am talking about once i solder a new diode on.