Lindemann attraction motor plus coil shorting.

[Bradley Malone]

OK did some upgrades....i wound a new shorting coil, bifilar wound with a rough guestimation of about 500-600 windings kids kept inturupting me and I lost count. I also had a problem with the cd's flexing down because of the attraction of the magnets so i filled the space between the cds with expanding gorilla glue. This way of making rotors actually blew my mind with how sturdy they are and if lined up right the cd's are already nicely round . Made a bigger cap bank using two(330uf 200v) and one (220uf 200v) caps. i haven't tried yet with these caps but i know if i let the system trigger one time it would fill one 330 uf to 50 volts. then it wouldn't go any higher so i imagnine i would have to discharge the cap every charge or i would be wasting the other pulses that wouldn't get in. But a bigger bank should change that. Also the core in the shorting coil stuck out about a 1/16 of an inch on the bottom so i couldn't actually get it under the rotor so i cut out a slot for it to fit in so i can get the coil where it needs to be. I am haveing a hard time judging power consumption because as i said before i blew my meter fuse so hot wired it so i can read voltage but not going to chance current. I tried to put a car headlight bulb between the batt and the system so i could use the brightness but it doesn't even light up so...looking for a different way untill i can get a fuse.

as for the running. adding the bifilar wound coil with many more windings then the previous one (double to be precise i used the previous wire wound beside a new one to make it bifilar) which caused the motor to spin up very slowy with that coil set aside ...but with it its a bit faster than before...no precise measurments yet but may have a video later today.

[Bradley Malone]

I am fairly sure i have this right but i want to put the math up to make sure i didn't miss something. I am using my meter to measure frequency on a spare coil, I have four magnets on the rotor. so if the freuency my meter showed got up to 900 and some change Hz so 900 hz/ 4= (225 rev/sec).....multiply by 60 seconds = 13500 rpm. Does that sound correct or did i miss something?

Also the cap bank still fills to 50ish volts in one pulse....even if i was drawing a lot of power (which doesn't makes sense cause i can't get the power line to light a lighbulb while im using it) one back-emf collapse causes it to pop straight to 50. my bedini machines would go way past 50 but would take multiple pulses. maybe i just need to keep getting more caps.

[Bradley Malone]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u-UO3iBH8U here is just a video of it running with the new coil. hard to make a video and still hold a coil and reed switch in the right place

[Bradley Malone]

Well I came a ccross a mistake i was making . by using a diode accross Both coils from the collector to the battery positive. I was effectivly turning the first half of the "shorting coil" wave into a generator and using it to charge the cap so instead of it haveing a "built up charge" when i pulse through it into the attraction motor that coil was already charging the back-emf cap therefore my theory was not being tested... got some figureing out to do.

does anyone out there have any idea why radiant or back-emf spikes always seem to charge to one certain voltage that seems random.
i have had coils that put out 296 volt spikes in my youtube video...others put out 100 somethings....this system i have now charges to 50-55 volts very quickly but stops there....what are the factors that set the voltage?

[Bradley Malone]

going to try the c-cores

here are pictures of the coils i had talked about previously with the 15 pancake coils stacked as one coil. one has been connected as a 15-filar coil each coil end passing on to the next coil beginning...the other i just have not gotten to. can't get my soldering iron to solder this wire (realised it was aluminum after making the coils) so i am going to just have to twist the crap out of the connections and pray for the best.

[ZPDM]

"does anyone out there have any idea why radiant or back-emf spikes always seem to charge to one certain voltage that seems random.
i have had coils that put out 296 volt spikes in my youtube video...others put out 100 somethings....this system i have now charges to 50-55 volts very quickly but stops there....what are the factors that set the voltage?"

I see similar things and when you add in finicky diodes and different voltages from slightly different set-ups of same coil it confuses me as well. Lastly, while it usually has some relation, just because you are transforming to a higher voltage doesn't necessarily mean more power in the spike. What I like to do is charge a 1 millifarad cap to a set voltage and time how long it takes. I then use the equation for joules in cap 1/2CV2. So if I charge to say 20 volts in 4 seconds in a 1 millifarad I can say 20*20 = 400. 400/2 * 1 millifarad = 0.2 joules. 0.2 joules in 4 seconds would be 0.05 joules per sec. As a joule is defined as a watt/sec, it would mean I am getting 50 milliwatts/sec into the cap from the radiant. So at some point I want to compare a Litz wound coil to single wire, large diameter to small, number of winds etc and look at power out from the radiant this way. I am working in a different direction at the moment though.

I can't say I understand what you are doing with the coil shorting, it looks like the generator coils are hooked in series with the drive coil? Doesn't that waste a lot of amps to be charging three coils, if only one is serving as a drive coil? Anywhere you might point me to read more on this? I've also seen more than one person employ a U shaped coil for coil shorting, have you looked at or planning to look at this. Many thanks,

Paul

[Bradley Malone]

thanks for the interest.

I can't say I understand what you are doing with the coil shorting, it looks like the generator coils are hooked in series with the drive coil? Doesn't that waste a lot of amps to be charging three coils, if only one is serving as a drive coil? Anywhere you might point me to read more on this? I've also seen more than one person employ a U shaped coil for coil shorting, have you looked at or planning to look at this. Many thanks,

Paul

there is no other site for this as far as i know...let me clarify what im thinking.

when you let a magnet approach a open coil it "builds a charge" and right after dead center you short the coil causing it to send a large current pulse into a cap while kicking the magnet away canceling drag....normal coil shorting setup.
What i am going for was instead of charging a cap with that current pulse...charge the "main drive" being the attraction motor. the coils underneath should never perform a generator action because of the kick from the short....SO the idea is if i hook up the "short coil" so the polarity is opposite the battery (series) then it ...in my head....would use a small amount of current to pop the current from the shorted coil into the drive coil causing a drive pulse from a "draggless gen (shorting coil). so you a small amount of battery power to allow the current from the lower coil to be "shorted" into the top coil for the attraction part.

The part that screwed me up is since the back emf diode is opposite polarity from the battery along with the shorting coil i have to use a reed switch to disconnect the back emf diode untill current starts from the battery then connect it and disconnect the battery....that will allow me to build a charge on the lower coil while the magnet approaches...then "short it" through the battery so it is effectivly useing the bottom coil as another battery....that current when shorted will cause the magnet to be repelled and cause the attraction motor to be pulled in....by the time it reaches center the reed turns off the back-emf is collected in a cap and thats it.

the Schematic i have up is NOT what i am using i simplified it down...i will put up a picture in a bit.
also thanks for the info about the radiant...i had just assumed since it is no current ....voltage must be the key....maybe it is only the voltage, but possible the voltage holds longer in different coils....25volts for 5 useconds is more than 50 volts for 1 usecond? i don't know

[Bradley Malone]

i missed one thing you said....the u-shaped cores, i don't know why but i have thought for years that they are a key....that and using both sides of a magnet. balance seems to be key in nature so why would we use one pole. also when you take a c-core like i have and you add a magnet to it opposite the incoming magnet...i think it may provide us with opportunities. if you think about it anytime you add magnetism to the front prongs it would pull the "already running" magnetism out of the back so you could theoretically harvest energy from behind the magnets...what i think this may do is....no drage because the counter-emf that would be caused would be ate back up by the magnet and not passed on to the rotor magnet.

the pic is what i am using for c-cores....they are out of flyback transformers. i stacked 3 neo's between two prongs then another core snaps to the other cores just above and below the magnets....the idea of removing the magnetism by adding magnetism works because if i do not tape the back C when i pass a magnet between the open prongs on the front the back piece falls off. so the idea is any magnetism that is taken will add magnetism to the back loop and vise versa ....going for the idea of everything.....i mean EVERYTHING having equal opposite rections simultaneously.

EDIT* one last thing...the coils i will be shorting on the c-cores will the the front between the core magnet and the rotor. leaving the back coil as a gen coil.

[Bradley Malone]

here is the schematic i am using right now to run it....the picture with the reed and back-emf diode is what i am going to try to be able to catch the back emf but also allow the "short coil" to charge up in series with the batt to hopefully get an extra boost in current from it instead of supplying the current from the battery.

when coils are shorted it is normally necassary to have a very low resistance path to get the most charge in a cap. but since i am trying to run the "Shorted current" into a coil with resistance i am thinking that haveing the battery would cancel that need for low resistance because the battery is like a negative resistance to the current in the coil. T/F the best scenario for what i am trying is i use just enough energy from the batery for switching purposes and also to overcome the resistance in the attraction coil therfore using the energy from the short coil to drive it. because shorted coils have a "no drag" effect i am trying to use that to freely create power then also using the current from it to create motion.

its the equivalent of using a shorting coil to charge a cap then discharge the cap into an attraction motor to cause the motion to again short the coil...but instead of using a cap and a low resistance shorting path i am using a coil and a helping hand from a battery.

i have the idea of using the reed in series with the diode and cap...from what i have understood radiant is a currentless power...i think of it like a laser shining you don't see it travel but you see it smack the wall (cap) so hoepfully i should be able to shunt the radiant through the reed and diode without burning it up...i have a few spares if i am wrong.

[Phat]

I'm looking for a schematic for making a measuring instrument to test magnetic field strength.

Goal is to quantify the relation of the amperage to magnetic fields strength.

I understand that the principle behind cold electricity is thus. So i feel the need to perform the experiments.

links would b nice.

[Bradley Malone]

I'm looking for a schematic for making a measuring instrument to test magnetic field strength.

Goal is to quantify the relation of the amperage to magnetic fields strength.

I understand that the principle behind cold electricity is thus. So i feel the need to perform the experiments.

links would b nice.

Forrest Mims series....particularly https://archive.org/details/Forrest_...adio_Shack_Ele
should help....he has circuits in there for magnetic sensors of different types.

[Bradley Malone]

BTW the principle behind cold electricity is balance......or potential....not current vs magnetic field. using the magnetic field or creating a magnetic field...you are doing the same thing as normal gens and motors....when you discharge a magnetic field or create (what i call) a "balanced potential" of one thing discharging with another charging then you get the cold out.

[Phat]

it was to my understanding that the strength of the magnetic field has no correlation to the amperage. as said by paul babcock
lemme know if i misquoted

all though intensity as in the amount of magnetism, webers, is indirectly proportional to the amperage due to the relation between volts and amp, ie. ohms law

by strength i mean to calculate the physical force projected by the magnetic field. in other words, will a bar of iron at a set distance from a set amperage through a select size and select metal, move so far so fast. and if i vary the amperage by means of resistance will it move so far so fast but just need to be closer to the wire.

so the electricity being stored through a motor like the SG is consider "cold" because the amperage is minimal to power the rotor with the strength of the field and produce a generating effect while providing mechanical.

balance in electrical power across the machine and synthesizing energy.

[Phat]

oh and thanks i will read this here shortly.

[Bradley Malone]

As i see the sg working is something like i am trying in this thread with the building up of a core from a magnet. when the magnet approaches it builds a voltage on two coils one being the trigger the other is the coil you pulse and retrieve radiant from...if you think of that then when the magnet has charged the trigger coil sufficiently to trigger the transistor it has also built up a charge on the other coil that you then pulse opposite the polarity it has (just like in my machine for the shorting coil) which causes the field set up by the magnet to discharge while simultaneously charging it in the opposite direction because of the transistor turning on. that discharge-charge causes a very large potential when you let it pull power from the battery for just long enough to perform the charge because the pull of a discharging field and a charging field both act on the current but because the current is only allowed to flow to the point of charge that turns the transistor off the faster the current the shorter the pulse needed....so the bigger the field to discharge in the core while charging it with a big field the bigger of radiant event you have. i think back-emf spikes from inductors and radiant "before" the current are along the same line...as AC and DC. i view "cold" electricity as a pulling electricity instead of a push if you pressurize something it heats up....like normal electric, if you put somethign in a vacuum it gets colder ...like radiant. instead of shoving in a charge to a battery it takes the opposite charge out causing the battery to want to pull in the charge. thats how bedini sg's fix batteries.