This is the inverter circuit is used from chemelec.com. its easy and cheap to build. in my set up the maximum output is about 180 AC volts only since this is not efficient but it works great. I suggest that build one instead of buying commercial since you are still experimenting. . the next graphic is the capacitor discharge circuit.
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Plasma Ignition | Plasma Jet Ignition
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Thank you very much your kind cooperation.
I upload a diagram for real hook up to vehicle.
(1) What is the ohm value of the 100 watt resistor ?
(2) Am I made right connection ?
I heard that the Aaron's set up could not get MPG gain.
But your set up get very good MPG gain.
(3) Does it any problem for real world everyday use ?
Thank you.
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1. the resistor is 100 ohms 50 to 100 watts. 100watts is better. you can buy it from ebay.
2. the electrolytic cap should be placed across after the resistor and the negative of the bridge rectifier and not on the ground of the vehicle. it must be isolated from car ground. the string of diode should be connected ONLY in the POSITIVE side after the capacitor. the NEGATIVE of the bridge rectifier and cap connects to the engine ground (negative) ONLY. in your diagram never connect the negative and positive to the diodes it will be SHORTED. i've watched i video connecting a coil to the ground from the plasma circuit (though i haven't tried it) and it looks better with less voltage clapping between the sparkplug electrodes.
3. so far i don't have any problem running my car using this plasma circuit. the only problem i have is the corrosion of the center electrode of the resistorless spark plug especially if i do some switching to high capacitance caps. I have 6 caps connected to a multi-selector potentiometer just for experimental purposes. so that i can choose between low and high caps. 2.2 to 4.7 uf is i think best enough in my setup. bigger caps produce big and loud spark. switching to high value caps also draw high current from the inverter.Last edited by akosiwilly; 08-28-2013, 06:35 PM.
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Originally posted by akosiwilly View Post1. the resistor is 100 ohms 50 to 100 watts. 100watts is better. you can buy it from ebay.
2. the electrolytic cap should be placed across after the resistor and the negative of the bridge rectifier and not on the ground of the vehicle. it must be isolated from car ground. the string of diode should be connected ONLY in the POSITIVE side after the capacitor. the NEGATIVE of the bridge rectifier and cap connects to the engine ground (negative) ONLY. in your diagram never connect the negative and positive to the diodes it will be SHORTED. i've watched i video connecting a coil to the ground from the plasma circuit (though i haven't tried it) and it looks better with less voltage clapping between the sparkplug electrodes.
3. so far i don't have any problem running my car using this plasma circuit. the only problem i have is the corrosion of the center electrode of the resistorless spark plug especially if i do some switching to high capacitance caps. I have 6 caps connected to a multi-selector potentiometer just for experimental purposes. so that i can choose between low and high caps. 2.2 to 4.7 uf is i think best enough in my setup. bigger caps produce big and loud spark. switching to high value caps also draw high current from the inverter.
Hi akosiwilly,
Just 2 questions:
1. Do I then take the negative battery cable OFF an engine to isolate the system, because if the inverter and capacitor/s are connected to the engine their current will influence the alternator and starter, and maybe also other sensors that use the engine's negative ground?
2. Is THIS what you mean by your above answer to Luishan?
The capacitor/s should ONLY be connected:
• POSITIVE between diode array anode and the resistor, and resistor connected to bridge rectifier POSITIVE;
• NEGATIVE to the negative of the bridge rectifier AND the engine. Both the NEGATIVES of bridge and cap should be connected to the engine
• Never connect bridge or cap to vehicle ground - it must be isolated from car ground.
The diode strings should ONLY be connected:
• ANODE through resistor to bridge POSITIVE and directly to capacitor POSITIVE;
• CATHODE to spark plug center electrode.
• Never connect diodes to both the bridge negative and positive: it will be SHORTED.Last edited by Willem Coetzee; 08-29-2013, 03:59 AM.
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1. There is no need to take the negative cable off the engine. what i mean here is to directly connect the negative of the inverter directly to the negative of the battery so that the capacitor's negative connects thru the bridge rectifier and not from the ground. this type of connection has been recommended by a lot of people from from URGENT! WATER AS FUEL DISCOVERY FOR EVERYONE TO SHARE i suggest that you get information from this site. Caution: my current setup on works in POSITIVE IGNITION system and on my car with carburetor, no-direct injection fuel system and with no ECU.
2. POSITIVE between diode array anode and the resistor, and resistor connected to bridge rectifier POSITIVE;
• NEGATIVE to the negative of the bridge rectifier AND the engine. Both the NEGATIVES of bridge and cap should be connected to the engine
• Never connect bridge or cap to vehicle ground - it must be isolated from car ground. I'm sorry i stand corrected for this mistake i made.
The diode strings should ONLY be connected: THIS IS RIGHT.
• ANODE through resistor to bridge POSITIVE and directly to capacitor POSITIVE;
• CATHODE to spark plug center electrode.
• Never connect diodes to both the bridge negative and positive: it will be SHORTED.
NOTE: this is the discharge path of low voltage high current to the sparkplug
Sorry for my english-I am a Proud Filipino (Philippines).
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your diagram is correct. Even with with my homemade inverter i dont have problem running this circuit. and the capacitor discharges is pretty impressive even with using high uf capacitor at least for 3,000 RMP coz my car has only small engine. If your inverter (since it's the one controlling the frequency to charge the caps) can run at high frequency i think it can handle fast charging at high RMP. i wish you luck. If you can find best quality sparkplug then you can try high uf for long period. By the way, this circuit will interfere with your onboard radio. Is your car having a ECU (electronic controlled unit)?
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Thank you for your reply.
My car is a 1995 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham V8 GM LT1 5.7 Liter engine.
My car has a pretty sophisticated ECU system as well as many sensors.
I am worried about the short life of the capacitor in the circuit and the electrical interference with the ECU.
But I find a great video clip to minimize RF frequency interference as below.
RF shielding assembly and installation - YouTube
I think I can make that stuff for my vehicle.
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Check this out.
Plasma Spark Ignition System Plans - YouTube
He claim easy plasma spark ignition plan.
But my point of view that is not a true plasma jet spark. I think it just enhanced ignition spark.
Here is the plan.
Please feel free to speak any opinion, anybody.Last edited by luishan; 08-30-2013, 06:18 PM.
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Hi Aaron,
Just joined the site. Fascinating stuff. I found a company that sells a kit for automobiles that "seems" to utilize the technology you describe. Here is the link. Can you comment as to whether this company is or is not selling a system that uses the same technology and whether or not you would think it would be worth my purchase for a 1969 Continental Mark 3 that I'm trying to improve mpg on? Thanks
Plasma ignition for RACING
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Originally posted by Babe Ruth View PostHi Aaron,
Just joined the site. Fascinating stuff. I found a company that sells a kit for automobiles that "seems" to utilize the technology you describe. Here is the link. Can you comment as to whether this company is or is not selling a system that uses the same technology and whether or not you would think it would be worth my purchase for a 1969 Continental Mark 3 that I'm trying to improve mpg on? Thanks
Plasma ignition for RACING
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Guys,
Aaron has proven the following plasma ignition concepts since 5 years ago, already:
1) his own unique Plasma CDI concept (what his book "ignition Secrets" is about)
2) back-end plasma boosting concept (what you guys lately talk about and the products you refer to are)
3) hybrid concept employing his Plasma CDI with back-end plasma boosting.
There is not only one way to make plasma ignition, but there are the easier, very successful, and proven ways. and there are other off-beat ways that could lead to lots of money wasted and head aces.
Its not knowledge that make plasma... its learning the skill and practicing it unto successful art of technical applying.
Aaron's own proven concept is an affordable, successful way, with which most handy men can obtain Plasma Ignition.
I myself, will stick to Aaron's own concept, and since I'm very time restricted to replicate, one day I will upload a successful demo to this forum, as a little trophy to say: "I've arrived".
Then, as a second separate project, I'll learn the back-end method, since all the data for both are on this forum.
Why learn BOTH?
Well, Aaron can do both methods, as well as have them work in one system as a hybrid.
Any idea WHY even attempt a hybrid plasma?
Well, as analogy, in the world of say turbo boosting, technicians apply applicable laws with the correct methods to control when, how, and quantity of turbo boost needed.
So, with the plasma part of fuel ignition... you need a basic Plasma CDI for better ignition... then you need to learn when, how, and how much back-end plasma boost to apply for engine under LOAD relative to load and engine temp.
Non of them are mysteries - but their application might remain so, if never attempted.
I learned the hard way... wasting time and money... so learn the differences between the 2 methods, and how they can be separately and/or jointly employed.
An THAT's the KEY!Last edited by Willem Coetzee; 09-03-2013, 01:23 AM.
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Concerning the Plasma Stinger Box, are the HT connectors (the things that look like spark plugs) available?
Plasma Ignition System Diodes - Stinger Block (read below) - YouTube
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