Have you called the makers and asked how to make them HV + ?
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Originally posted by ThankyouBedini View PostHere are some sparks I made today.
As you can see from the video the hook up to the coil is reverse. This way works, but it is not making plasma alone. The plasma comes with the booster capasitor, 440 v 50 uf.
When I put two caps in series, it is not getting any better, so one is enough. If I crank up the voltage to much then the ignition coil makes internal sparks, and I get no plasma on the sparkplug. To be able to make the golfball size sparks I have heard about but never seen, I have a feeling that I need a HV+ coil. If anyone knows where to buy a HV+ coil please let me know. I am more than willing to buy secrets regarding HV+!
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I can make HV+ by just hooking up the wires from the MDS 5520 the coil + to - and - to + (reverse). The results is just (weak) sparks! Then if I add the 6a10 diode string and point the diodes towards the spark gap I still just get (weak) sparks and no plasma.
If I hook up wires from the MDS 5520 to the coil + to+ and - to - (normal) and then add and point the diode string away from the spark gap, I get plasma.
I expected to see plasma when I reversed connected the coil and made HV+. The only way to get plasma that way is to add booster capacitors.
Well, the trick to get real strong true HV + might be found in very old ignition coils, I have just learned that some cars used to have a positive ground. It could be that those old cars have a different coil than our newer cars. I will have to try. Here is a link.
Would the difference in a HV - and HV+ be counter clockwise and clockwise windings?
I have not used an inverter, only a 12 volt battery and 120 v grid.
Twice I have been in contact with Mallory and they say that all their coils are HV-
So far in my research I have only used AC run caps for booster caps! Not the right thing to do...!
I would like to learn what type of DC booster capacitors that would work best for making golf ball size plasma.
Does it have to be run capacitor DC?
Thank you all!
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Here is a link to an ignition coil for a 1955 Packard.
With that positive ground, my guess is that the ignition coil must be of HV+ nature!
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Hi.
I'm starting my project for plasma ignition to my Mazda RX-8. How would you suggest that I make the plasma circuit for this particular rotary engine? It has two chambers/rotors and a leading and trailing spark plugs, with an own coil for each plug. Has any of you done the plasma conversion for this kind of engine? What do you think, should I have plasma spark circuit for every four plugs or just leading/ just trailing plugs? Is the Street Fire MSD - type of cdi box that Aaron recommends in the book suitable with this kind of multi-coil original ignition?
I don't know if this is a stupid question, but are one cylinder motorcycle/scooter cdi boxes suitable for this purpose? They are waaay cheaper than multi-cylinder car cdi boxes.
Just trying to get a whole picture for this at the time...
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Hi,
I don't think the polarity of the coil is key to getting big plasma. The cap does make a great difference and looking at your video you might try some different caps. Find real low ESR caps like the yellow ones Bedini uses, they are really good.
Another aspect is the amount of charge in the caps so charge the caps high. I got horrific plasma with just 30uf and 400V, pretty terrifying..
Hope this helps..
Floris
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i have been using plasma ignition in my small car since November of 2013. I tried high capacitance caps (such as 22uf and 30 uf all 450v). but they cause rapid deterioration of the center electrode. I am settled with 2.2uf and 4.7 uf 450v and they work fine but still there is a slight deterioration of the electrode. I put a selector to switch between the caps for city and highway driving mode. with these caps i change my resistorless sparkplugs every 6 months. Plasma really works fine in my car - smooth acceleration and some fuel savings.
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ThankyouBedini - didn't think of this sooner, but the answer is in my diagrams before on the wasted spark ignition coil packs.
Those hv windings are isolated from the primary windings as they are NOT autotransformers with a common ground.
Get one of those coils packs - ground the hv winding on the side that would be normally negative - or more properly, the hv goes from body to plug and the other side is automatically positive.
It might be the least expensive and simplest way to have a HV+.
That is one half of a 4 cylinder wasted spark ignition coil pack like what is on my EJ-25 engine.
There is a common Positive for the primary and the negatives are switched by the "igniter" which is just a timed switch by some sensor on a camshaft or something.
The secondary is isolated... HV positive goes from one end of secondary towards body then from body to the other plug to complete its circuit.
Simply take the end of the HV winding and put that to ground and the other end will give you HV positive. I'm talking about direction of the "voltage" flow and not the current direction.
With a EJ-25 coil pack or similar, they're a dime a dozen out there, you only need to trigger one half of it - there is your simple and inexpensive HV + guaranteed.
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Originally posted by Mika View PostWhat do you think of Brisk LGS plug for plasma ignition use? It is resistorless plug with silver electrodes.
Is silver durable material for plasma use? My car has kind of special plugs, I don't know how many different kinds are even available for RX8.
Short term, I'm going with NGK non resistors with a tungsten center electrode.
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Originally posted by akosiwilly View Posti have been using plasma ignition in my small car since November of 2013. I tried high capacitance caps (such as 22uf and 30 uf all 450v). but they cause rapid deterioration of the center electrode. I am settled with 2.2uf and 4.7 uf 450v and they work fine but still there is a slight deterioration of the electrode. I put a selector to switch between the caps for city and highway driving mode. with these caps i change my resistorless sparkplugs every 6 months. Plasma really works fine in my car - smooth acceleration and some fuel savings.
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