Plasma Ignition | Plasma Jet Ignition

[Hellenic Vanagon]

No doubt surface discharge type lasts longer than j type electrode. Alteast with my experiments with non projected torque master surface discharge non resistor spark plugs last longer than j type plugs. When I removed the j ground electrode completely from cheap Chinese non resistor plug it performed way better than torque master due to larger electrode gap. Larger gap is the key to better performance. Need to try out higher ignition voltage along with larger gap and plasma...

But a surface discharge spark plug needs ~half the power to overcome a gap.

[firozmusthafa]

Just another experiment,

I tried power lynz inside my intake manifold for my already grooved (somender Singh groove) cylinder head.

Incredible difference!

torque at all rpm and mileage improved by 5%.
Exhaust temperature dropped while leaning (this time I drilled emulsion tube for leaning out main jet at high rpm).

I am still studying the effects of this mod.

There was a slight difference in my design, I used semi circles instead of concentric circles with 1mm deep lynz with 1mm spacing.

With this mod while plasma is on, my engine overheats and pings like crazy while TPS (Throttle position sensor) is connected.

And when its disconnected, engine runs cool with crazy amount of torque(From my office to home 45kms, I driven the whole route mostly in 5th gear with my already overgeared engine while still having enough grunt to climb inclines at lower rpm. This was impossible till now, not impossible anymore)

All of this is with plasma. Engine really loves retarded ignition when running lean especially when the mixture is more homogenous.

[heysoundude]

power lynz? I googled that but didn't get a relevant result.
would you be so kind as to elaborate?

I found this video of the process:

Gadgetman Ron Hatton has his groove just inside the seat of the throttle plate. I would expect Dr Singh's grooves to work best with Direct Injection engines.

[firozmusthafa]

I only applied this technique inside my 2inch long intake manifold cone after carburetor. Before applying this idea inside the entire intake port and valve I had to be sure it will work with intake manifold alone.(turned out it not only works but it works really well)

Here you go...
https://www.allpar.com/fix/holler/pe...d-economy.html

[firozmusthafa]

I never had good luck with Ron Hatton gadget man groove. It reduced my mpg!
Maybe its not meant for motorcycle carburetors

[firozmusthafa]

Somender singh groove has been tested by me in atleast 6 carbureted engines. It totally changes the engines behavior.
In all my tests, I increased compression ratio by shaving off 1mm to 1.6mm of metal from cylinder head.
I noticed Somender singh grooves doesn't like lean mixtures, knocking increases with lean mixture, but power lynz fixed that problem.

Singh groove is said to work in fuel injection and carburetor engines alike. I never tested in fuel injected engines yet.

For me there are 3 mods that have made significant differences cumulatively:
1. Plasma ignition
2. Somender Singh groove
3. Power Lynz

Still I know there is room for improvement in fuel delivery area.

[heysoundude]

it appears to me (thank you for the link!) that mobilizing boundary later air at all transitions in an intake improves air-fuel charge homogenization.
this is the same principle as the divots on golf balls to make them fly far (I have long suspected that Reynolds Number has something to do with it, but I'm not sure I'm up to the maths or physics).
all of this in combination obviously removes a good deal of the "slop" (narrows the acceptable ranges of +/- in a tolerance, for instance, or in this case all the systems/factors that contribute) that makes for highly efficient machines.

[RB176]

Hi Jeremiah,



I wouldn't do that. The MSD 5520 street fire works fine with the MSD 8222 blaster coil in my single cylinder generator application. However, the Granatelli solid wire may be too low of a resistance. I'm using a Taylor Spiro-Pro wire which has a magnetic suppression core found here. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-45429/overview/

And I have a high temp, high voltage wire from the diode directly to the spark plug terminal. And I'm also using an NGK BU series surface gap plug. These come in various length reaches for a variety of different engines. I think the one that fits your engine is this one. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ngk-703

This setup gives me a very strong plasma and long plug life as well. Here are photos of it again, in case you missed it in one of my previous posts linked here. http://www.energyscienceforum.com/sh...ll=1#post29910

Gary, finally got back working on my project. Buy replacing the plug wire and my coil I was able to resolve my misfires, now to another question. I haven’t tried the surface gap plugs but I would like to but I see they seem to run on the very cold side, have you had a problem with them fouling out? Also you said you are using high temp high voltage wire from diode to plug, I just have standard 14 gauge wire is this a problem? Thanks Jeremiah

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Jeremiah,

Gary, finally got back working on my project. Buy replacing the plug wire and my coil I was able to resolve my misfires, now to another question. I haven’t tried the surface gap plugs but I would like to but I see they seem to run on the very cold side, have you had a problem with them fouling out? Also you said you are using high temp high voltage wire from diode to plug, I just have standard 14 gauge wire is this a problem? Thanks Jeremiah

Yes these plugs do run on the very cold side, but that's not really a problem for me. The only time one fouled out was in my Bradley GT with modified air cooled VW engine during a cold start after sitting unused over the winter months. The temperature was low, the battery was low on charge, and the gasoline was old. This engine has after market fuel injection and no manual choke. I left a charger on the battery while cranking the engine over and after repeated attempts (start and die) I got it running steady on three of the four cylinders.

I took it out on the road to see if it would clean out the fouled plug at wide open throttle. That didn't work, so I brought it back to the shop and pulled the fouled plug. After cleaning off all the sooty carbon on the end of the plug, I re-installed it and it has worked flawlessly ever since.

The plasma keeps the plug clean enough in normal operation that fouling is not a problem. If the battery is up, this thing always starts good and runs really strong. It will idle for an extended time and pull very strong to the 6000 rpm redline without fail.

The wire between the diode and spark plug is exposed to the same voltage as the connecting terminal on the spark plug. As a result, the standard 14ga wire insulation is rated well below the high voltage it has to contain. It will work unless it is physically too close to a good path to ground. Here's a link to what I am using.
https://www.newark.com/pomona/6733-2...S%2Fw%2Fsearch

[RB176]

Hi Jeremiah,



Yes these plugs do run on the very cold side, but that's not really a problem for me. The only time one fouled out was in my Bradley GT with modified air cooled VW engine during a cold start after sitting unused over the winter months. The temperature was low, the battery was low on charge, and the gasoline was old. This engine has after market fuel injection and no manual choke. I left a charger on the battery while cranking the engine over and after repeated attempts (start and die) I got it running steady on three of the four cylinders.

I took it out on the road to see if it would clean out the fouled plug at wide open throttle. That didn't work, so I brought it back to the shop and pulled the fouled plug. After cleaning off all the sooty carbon on the end of the plug, I re-installed it and it has worked flawlessly ever since.

The plasma keeps the plug clean enough in normal operation that fouling is not a problem. If the battery is up, this thing always starts good and runs really strong. It will idle for an extended time and pull very strong to the 6000 rpm redline without fail.

The wire between the diode and spark plug is exposed to the same voltage as the connecting terminal on the spark plug. As a result, the standard 14ga wire insulation is rated well below the high voltage it has to contain. It will work unless it is physically too close to a good path to ground. Here's a link to what I am using.
https://www.newark.com/pomona/6733-2...S%2Fw%2Fsearch

Gary
Looks like I’ll be investing in some new plugs to try, actually I would have them already but the auto parts store doesn’t stock them. And as far as the wire, well that will probably be the list to but for now I’m not noticing any problems making plasma. What problems should I be watching for? Thanks Jeremiah

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Jeremiah,

.............. What problems should I be watching for? Thanks Jeremiah

The standard 14ga wire insulation is rated well below the high voltage it has to contain. It will work unless it is physically too close to a good path to ground.

If the high voltage is shorting through the insulation you should be able to see sparks and arcing, especially after dark. It will also probably misfire if this occurs.

[RB176]

Hi Jeremiah,





If the high voltage is shorting through the insulation you should be able to see sparks and arcing, especially after dark. It will also probably misfire if this occurs.

Just ordered some 30kv 18 gauge wire from eBay, may as well replace that to. Makes me wonder if that could have been my problem all along, although it is working fine now even with the low voltage wire. I’m tempted to try the HV wire in conjunction with my Granatelli 0 olm wire to see what happens.

[RB176]

Just ordered some 30kv 18 gauge wire from eBay, may as well replace that to. Makes me wonder if that could have been my problem all along, although it is working fine now even with the low voltage wire. I’m tempted to try the HV wire in conjunction with my Granatelli 0 olm wire to see what happens.

My Msd wire has 45 ohms of resistance.

[firozmusthafa]

Just an update on my experiments. I recently did power lynz inside intake manifold and intake port.
Couldn't get the ridges on intake valve along with it since tungsten carbide and diamond tools were not even able to score the valves .

When I opened engine, I was shocked to see hard epoxy like deposits, even after soaking it for hours in methanol, methylene chloride, carburetor cleaner, methyl ethyl ketone, kerosene and gasoline, it did nothing to it. Ended up running hard carbon steel wire wheel for about 20 minutes to get it off completely. It was a frustrating experience. Ordinary gasoline piston deposits washes off quickly under a minute. I think that the oil additives from valve seal might be the reason for this.

Funny thing is there was oil disappearing every week and no smoke or oily residue in exhaust (plasma could be the reason). Piston, rings and bore were in spec and were not having any scorings.

With powerlynz I have noticed cooler exhaust temperature after decarbonization. So my conclusion is that if engine has hard carbon deposits inside combustion chamber, it won't allow advanced ignition timing and lean mixtures together. Gasoline deposits are inevitable with conventional fuel delivery.

Also I tried LPC intelligent spark plug with plasma and noticed that both Torquemasters and LPC plugs are similar in performance

[heysoundude]

I'll google the LPC plugs, but would you be so kind as to provide the link you use?

engine deposits - this is a motorcycle as I recall, correct? do they have a system to balance crankcase pressure and evacuate the blowby and unburned hydrocarbon vapours, like a PCV system in cars? if so, have you tried a catch can on the evac line that recirculates back into the intake?