Bedini Tesla Switch DvD Questions.

[John_Koorn]

Bruno,

However there is another problem... there are two diodes on the negative side of S5 and S6 that have to be removed or simply reversed in their direction this was not mentioned on the sheet. The diodes in question are the ones with the anode facing the collectors of S5 and S6, they are both located dead centre of the image below.


-Dave Wing

Sorry Dave, this is incorrect. The diodes you mention are LEDs that must be places in the circuit exactly how they are drawn in your screen grab.

John K.

[Dave Wing]

Sorry Dave, this is incorrect. The diodes you mention are LEDs that must be places in the circuit exactly how they are drawn in your screen grab.

John K.

John K.


Yeah I should not have posted in such manner... It gives a false impression that JB made a mistake when including the LED's... sorry about that. The way I interpret the circuit as it is laid out here... I still see it not functioning... So...

In order to clear things up can you re-draw the lower part of the circuit so it is correct, please correctly lable the Emitters and collectors of S-5 and S-6 and the colors each side corresponds to, along with the LED's A's and K's.


Thanks,
Dave Wing

[John_Koorn]

No probs Dave. The best way I can put this is that the ORIGINAL schematic that John shows in the video is correct.

The one that is in the Eike Mueller book was changed.

John K.

[beatty_dt]

Hi all. I built my copy of John's Tesla switch from the DVD. I use the circuit board that was held up to see. I could not make out what resistor value is used with the Schottky diodes. I scrutinized the images and bumped them with photoshop without success. Can someone tell me the value of resistor to use. Though the build was completed in January life took me away and I am just now returning to my project. So far I am using jumpers. The switch functions but not as well as it can. Thanks, David

[John_Koorn]

Hi beatty_dt,

There aren't any resistors used with the Schottky diodes. I'm not quite clear on which part of the circuit you're referring to.

If you PM me with a pic of your circuit board or the schematic with the area in question highlighted I'll tell you what should be there.

John K.

[lantern]

Hi all,

I've tried to build a Tesla Switch according to John's specification from DVD but the voltages across the leads of each of the batteries only decreased gradually over time. Anyway my attempt has 3 things that are different from Bedini's configuration:

1) The firing sequence: instead of firing S1, S3, S6 together and S2, S4, S5 together mine is firing S1, S3, S5 together and S2, S4, S6 together.
2) I use breadcrumb to accommodate the circuit rather than soldering onto a board. (I was told that breadcrumb is ok) I only use alligator clips for connection to batteries.
3) I use sealed lead acid 12V 7AH batteries instead of 4 1.2V nicad.

btw, I use 12V regulated to power the timing circuit. I used 6V before but found that the transistors didn't fully open or close the collector-emitter circuit.

What I'm not sure is that, do I need to have the batteries fully conditioned by SSG before I can use them on the Tesla switch to work properly? I don't have a SSG built. Does it help if I desulfate the batteries via a desulfator device available from components shops out there? Anyway my batteries are very new. They were only fully discharged and re-charged once.

I also noticed that the LED diodes shown in the diagrams were put "the wrong way" such that they didn't lit up. Looks like their real purpose is to take advantage of the response time of blocking a reversed current to produce a pulse? I tried the LED diodes both ways but the outcomes (i.e. voltages across the leads of each battery) were the same. Is there a specific type of LED that I should use?

Last question: does the flip-flop frequency matter? Is there a battery dependent "resonance frequency" at all? I checked various points with oscilloscope and the circuit oscillated as expected.

Thanks!

[John_Koorn]

Hi lantern, welcome to the forum. Please see below for in-line comments:

Hi all,

I've tried to build a Tesla Switch according to John's specification from DVD but the voltages across the leads of each of the batteries only decreased gradually over time. Anyway my attempt has 3 things that are different from Bedini's configuration:

1) The firing sequence: instead of firing S1, S3, S6 together and S2, S4, S5 together mine is firing S1, S3, S5 together and S2, S4, S6 together.
JK - As long as the transistors are all firing when they are supposed to, it's fine.

2) I use breadcrumb to accommodate the circuit rather than soldering onto a board. (I was told that breadcrumb is ok) I only use alligator clips for connection to batteries.
JK - you mean "breadboard", right? If so, then the only point that is alright is the timing circuit. for everything past the optos either build your own circuit board, or if you have experience you can solder everything point to point.

3) I use sealed lead acid 12V 7AH batteries instead of 4 1.2V nicad.
JK - Get it working with 1.2V nicads first

btw, I use 12V regulated to power the timing circuit. I used 6V before but found that the transistors didn't fully open or close the collector-emitter circuit.
JK - that's fine. Here's where you can use your 12v 7AH battery

What I'm not sure is that, do I need to have the batteries fully conditioned by SSG before I can use them on the Tesla switch to work properly? I don't have a SSG built. Does it help if I desulfate the batteries via a desulfator device available from components shops out there? Anyway my batteries are very new. They were only fully discharged and re-charged once.
JK - No, as long as you use good batteries.They don't need any special conditioning, however even new batteries require a few charge/discharge cycles before they reach full capacity.

I also noticed that the LED diodes shown in the diagrams were put "the wrong way" such that they didn't lit up. Looks like their real purpose is to take advantage of the response time of blocking a reversed current to produce a pulse? I tried the LED diodes both ways but the outcomes (i.e. voltages across the leads of each battery) were the same. Is there a specific type of LED that I should use?
JK - The "wrong" way is the right way.

Last question: does the flip-flop frequency matter? Is there a battery dependent "resonance frequency" at all? I checked various points with oscilloscope and the circuit oscillated as expected.
JK - yes, the frequency does matter. You will need to experiment with the frequency to get the best results.

Thanks!

[AdAn]

Hi all,

I've tried to build a Tesla Switch according to John's specification from DVD but the voltages across the leads of each of the batteries only decreased gradually over time. Anyway my attempt has 3 things that are different from Bedini's configuration:

1) The firing sequence: instead of firing S1, S3, S6 together and S2, S4, S5 together mine is firing S1, S3, S5 together and S2, S4, S6 together.
2) I use breadcrumb to accommodate the circuit rather than soldering onto a board. (I was told that breadcrumb is ok) I only use alligator clips for connection to batteries.
3) I use sealed lead acid 12V 7AH batteries instead of 4 1.2V nicad.

btw, I use 12V regulated to power the timing circuit. I used 6V before but found that the transistors didn't fully open or close the collector-emitter circuit.

What I'm not sure is that, do I need to have the batteries fully conditioned by SSG before I can use them on the Tesla switch to work properly? I don't have a SSG built. Does it help if I desulfate the batteries via a desulfator device available from components shops out there? Anyway my batteries are very new. They were only fully discharged and re-charged once.

I also noticed that the LED diodes shown in the diagrams were put "the wrong way" such that they didn't lit up. Looks like their real purpose is to take advantage of the response time of blocking a reversed current to produce a pulse? I tried the LED diodes both ways but the outcomes (i.e. voltages across the leads of each battery) were the same. Is there a specific type of LED that I should use?

Last question: does the flip-flop frequency matter? Is there a battery dependent "resonance frequency" at all? I checked various points with oscilloscope and the circuit oscillated as expected.

Thanks!

Hi!
You can see on the circuit?

[Stephen56]

By any chance have you made a diagram and a parts list that you are willing to share? I recently bought the DVDs and would like to start experimenting, however I don't have much experience and I anticipate this to be steep challenge.

[Stephen56]

does anyone have a circuit diagram

I am just starting to attempt building the Tesla Switch. I bought the DVDs and watched them. I don't know if my screen has poor resolution or if there is another problem. At any rate the screen captures I took do not reveal the part numbers.
Has anyone had any success?

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

Bruno,

I believe there is may be a problem on the negative side of one of John's hand drawn schematics the two transistors are mislabeled S5 and S6... A sheet sent with the DvD's explains this. S6 should be blue and S5 should be red.

However there is another problem... there are two diodes on the negative side of S5 and S6 that have to be removed or simply reversed in their direction this was not mentioned on the sheet. The diodes in question are the ones with the anode facing the collectors of S5 and S6, they are both located dead centre of the image below.

Let me know what you find out with these changes.

-Dave Wing

Dave Wing I can light the LEDs in reverse with the Tri-Symmetrical 3 Battery Tesla Switch, here is the exact circuits I used.



Note. If you feed a saw-tooth wave into the above driver circuits input, you can use RV1(Tuning) to adjust the pulse width.





I believe this proves that John Bedini was correct once again about the LEDs lighting up in reverse bias, the LEDs are not bright, but they lite up, which indicates that some form of energy is passing through them. I noticed all battery's increasing their voltage, At this stage I am not sure if the batteries gained voltage because they were resting or charging. I rebuilt my 4 battery tesla switch exactly to the DVD, with the reversed LEDs, I have not succeeded in making the LEDs lite up, with the oscillator driving the 4 battey tesla switch yet.

If someone was to replicate these above circuits they will also see LEDs lite up in reverse bias. I posted this information, because this info I believe is a pathway to understand the 4 battery bedini switch. I think getting the LEDs to lite up in reverse bias is one of the key things to get the 4 battery bedini switch working.

If I short the output, in short pulses with a screw driver the reversed LEDs in my 4 battery Tesla Switch flash briefly, which means if you get the switching right the LEDs will lite up. So the tesla switch can work.


Here is something else, With my first 4 battery Tesla Switch Build, shown below.



And here are the waveform across one of the reversed LEDs. (I used super bright clear blue LEDs 5mm)



At first I couldn't understand where the high frequencies are coming from. LEDs in reverse bias becomes a light sensor.

An LED in reverse bias acting as a light sensor and producing it's own light, is most likely to be a resonator. That could explain the waveform across the reverse biased LED in my 4 battery Tesla Switch.


I hope this info is useful to the tesla switch experimenters.

Kind
Regards
Nityesh Schnaderbeck

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

This is the second 4 Battery Tesla switch build. This is built exactly to John bedini's hand drawn schematics, on the whiteboard from the "Bedini Tesla Switch" DVD. This Tesla Switch Build smokes the red and yellow LEDs as the load, so I had to use a white LED. The bridge rectifier is made from schottky diodes, which gives me an extra volt, to use on the load.



Kind
Regards
Nityesh Schnaderbeck

[Dave Wing]

Hi Nityesh,

I have not worked on the tesla switch for quite some time now and I really do not have anything to offer you... Other than some praise for making good progress in your work... thanks for sharing your results and hard work.

Dave Wing

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

I captured some battery ringing with the scope. I set my scope to "Single Shot" trigger mode, set the timebase to 2uS(2 micro seconds), and put the scope across "Batt1" on my "4 Battery Bedini Tesla switch running without a load and this is what I captured, I have captured lots of shots of battery ringing. below is one of them.



If I tap a screwdriver to short the output of the my "4 Battery Bedini Tesla switch" this also causes some battery ringing, as well as flashing the reverse biased LEDs.

So I think that when the batteries resonate the reversed bias LEDs light up, or flash from bursts of battery resonance.

It appears that I am getting bursts of resonances in hits and misses, so I may still have to perfect the switching some more, like match all components(Like matching batteries, etc), and matching the lengths of wire between the 2 sides of the circuit, so the high frequency nodes can be at the right places in the circuit. I may have the experiment the with timing, dead zone, and frequencies of the driver circuit, change component values, change the SG3534 IC, for another one, since the SG3534's are oddball chips and have individual characteristics.

maybe I could design a XTAL(crystal) locked driver circuit to drive my "4 Battery Bedini Tesla switch".

I modified my "4 Battery Bedini Tesla switch", I put thicker wire for the batteries, to reduce the inductance and impedance to high frequencies, and I have spaced the battery cells from each other, so the capacitance caused from the cells being close to each other, is reduced. So this capacitance does not short out high frequencies.



Super ultra awesome

Most
Kindest
Regards
Nityesh Schanderbeck

[James_Somewhere_In_Idaho]

Hi Nityesh

Looking good, my friend...I think you are the verge of something.