3 Battery Tesla Switch

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

Here is the mod to eliminate the Magnetic Hall Sensor and to use the trigger winding to trigger the driver circuit.







The 3 motor winding's plus the the trigger winding, are all wound together as a quad-filler coil.

RV1 is a 10 turn pot and slowly turn while spinning the wheel until the motors spins itself. Because all winding's are the same length and all on one coil spool, only a single tuning winding is needed. Enjoy and have fun.

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Nityesh,

Gary Hammond, If you give me a schematic of your circuit, I may be able to offer some suggestions.

In the SSG the cap dumping allows you to do battery swapping from front to back. Negative electricity will cancel out positive electricity. So if you are back spiking a coil into a battery and rotating battery's. It may cancel your energy gains, or it may enhance it. So I am building circuits with cap dumping and without cap dumping. To find out which gives me the best results. So far cap dumping, in previous circuits has made the battery's get hot and flat within minutes.

As shown in the attachment, I was running a small SSG as a 300 ma load on the transistorized circuit I copied from you and added to. The SSG was charging another battery which was being used only to power the control circuit of the switch. It never got rotated with the 3 batteries that were being switched by the transistors.



I removed all the optos and transistors replacing them with relays. The relays performed flawlessly! But since you asked, here's a PDF I made of the circuit I first put together. Three Battery Transistor Switch.pdf

I still want to try using a mechanical commutator/brush type rotary switch to get faster switching than I was able to get with optos and transistors. Or if I had some of Paul Babcock's fast switching, that would work!

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

Gary Hammond
Looking at the specs of the MJE3055 http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datashe...S/MJE3055.html The DC current gain is 20, the DC current gain of the MJE21194 is about 35. Those LED's inside the H11D1's have a voltage drop of 1.2V - 1.5V according to the current flowing though them. http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/8148.pdf so (4 x 1.2v = 4.8V) and (12V - 4.8V = 7.2V) the current (7.2V / 150ohm = 48ma). You can try driving your H11D1's with more current, not more than 100ma, (don't fry them, because you can't push the magic smoke back in)

Make sure your transistors are driven into full saturation, at full saturation your transistors should have a voltage drop of 0.3V(approx) between the collector and emitter.

Also your MJE3055 transistors may have a gain between 10 - 20, so you want to drive the transistor with the lowest gain into saturation. And Measure the voltage drops between the collector and emitter to make sure your are saturating your transistors. If you increase your load(draw more current) you may have to recheck that you are still saturating your transistors at turn on.

Regarding this post.

Has anyone made an Arduino controller that includes a delay from turn off to turn on? I see instances of the power transistors actually shutting off after the next set is turned on and conducting. [ATTACH=CONFIG]4719[/ATTACH] better to see this timing [ATTACH=CONFIG]4720[/ATTACH]

If Kenowen has been using The old CD4017 driver circuit in this PDF http://www.energyscienceforum.com/at...8&d=1441704524. There is a flaw in this design.

The flaw is that there is only a dead Zone of 1uS(1 micro second) between the switching of O0,O1 and O2 from the CD4017 decade counter. Which can cause switching overlaps. The CD4017 Decade counter is positive edge triggered, and locks on until the next positive edge on pin 14.

The following new driver circuit solves this problem and allows you to change the pulse width.


If you change the pulse width of your input signal it will also vary the pulse width of the output pulses to the LEDs inside the opto isolatars. This feature is absolutely necessary to drive a pulse motor.

The PN2907 (Q1,Q2 and Q3) is a PNP version of the PN2222 transistor and can switch up to 250Mhz. Looking at the specs of the H11D1 it looks like the H11D1 can switch very fast, it is all in how you drive them.

Gary Hammond, I love your work, You have spent lots of your time in this, Thankyou.

I see you have tied the 3 loads together, I will have to try that too. Another thing a transistor is not a real switch, high frequency transients can sneak past the collector and emitter of your transistors, because of the capacitance's of the junctions. One solution the this problem is to replace Q1.2, Q2.2 and Q3.2 with SCR's to simulate a real switch.

Kind Regards
Nityesh Schnaderbeck

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Nityesh,

Thanks for the help and suggestions. I sometimes get in over my head, as I'm a real novice at this!

I think you're right about the CD4017 switching too fast (no dead zone) for the 3055s to keep up. I suspect I was getting some overlap, shorting, and resultant overheating. I didn't keep it running long enough to get a scope shot because of the poor results. Too many transistors in series, with too much voltage drop, even if they were switching properly.

I like the idea of using SCRs, but didn't know how to shut them back off. Also thought about using MOSFETs for less voltage drop. Anyway, I decided to try relays as it would be simpler for me to wire up and give me true switching with no voltage drop.

When I scoped the relays I found that the coils had about a one millisecond overlap, but they mechanically closed slower than they opened to give about a ten millisecond dead zone in the actual switching. And they did this with only a 17ma draw through the CD4017. I was demonstrating this to a friend today while having the load connections hooked to the driver input and a capacitor. To get it started switching I had to momentarily connect a battery to the cap. So then I showed my friend that if I unhooked the cap it would stop running. And guess what .......it kept running with the driver input being powered only from the load output connection!

Apparently the small 100uf filter cap on the circuit board input was enough to keep the chip operating through the 10 ms dead zone.

I have it switching every 2 seconds, but apparently it needs to switch at least 7 times per second to get any real benefit! The relays are capable of doing this, but I don't know how long they would last.

Considering all this is why I figured a mechanical rotating switch with carbon brushes might be a good way to go. But I've already spent more time and money on this than I originally intended just for experimentation. I'm tempted to just move on to a different project.

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

The SCR's will turn off when you turn the transistors off, so that's not an issue. You cannot use mosfets or IGBT's because they do not have any reverse blocking capability.

I am happy you have spent time on this, and thankyou.

I also get frustrated with this stuff too, I have spent years and built many machines. The real experts see me floundering around, and don't give me any technical support (except for Tom Childs). I believe in making Tesla's dream come true, a free energy machine in every home. So I am sharing all my circuits on the internet, in the public domain. I am not going to patent anything. I have had people say to me "if you make a machine that powers a house, then I will be interested".

Even John Bedini has had technical support from technical friends. I have also gone from project to project have a look in my photo album in my profile.

I think you have achieved a lot in a short time.

I thankyou for your efforts

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

My next experimental driver Circuit






This driver circuit is for experimenting with cap dumping, so the back spike of each motor winding charges it's own capacitor, then dumps the capacitor, within the dead zone into the charging battery, when all motor winding's are tuned off.

With this experimental driver circuit, I wish to experiment with the cap dump pulse width and the timing of the cap dump. The logic circuits make sure the cap dump can only happen within the dead zone when all motor winding's are turned off. The Magnetic hall sensor when placed between the magnets, (90 degrees from the coil) can adjust the timing of where the cap dumps inside the dead zone. So I need to give time for the caps to charge from the back spike, and dump the cap before the next motor pulse. If I use NI-CADs or lead acid batteries (with low impedance) and can adjust the pulse width I can prevent battery damage and overheating.

I can provide the modified tri-symmetrical switch schematic with cap dumping in another post.

When I experimented with the below driver circuit I couldn't adjust the pulse width only the frequency.


The battery's started buzzing they got very hot and flat within minutes, if I turned up the frequency too high, these were NI-MH batteries, and these battery's have a high internal resistance(so they lost lots of energy as heat). I damaged these batteries and they lost most of their capacity. I think I burnt the cathodes in these batteries. The same symptoms as overcharging.

This was the first build of this circuit, this was the one that used the NI-MH Batteries


Then I rebuilt the circuit, and this was the second build.

This used NI-CAD batteries, I just found out a couple of days ago that I had connected the opto-couplers incorrectly, to the cap dumping Mosfets, so this experiment is worth testing again to find out how it works with NI-CAD batteries.

Kind
Regards
Nityesh Schnaderbeck

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

Gary Hammond,
If you still wish to experiment with this switch. Here is a modified circuit with dead zones, to prevent switching overlaps.




Q2,Q5 and Q8 from the CD4017 decade counter are the dead zones. This is a simple and cheap mod that can be appied to your driver circuit, that will solve the switching overlap problem.

Enjoy and have fun

Kind
Regards
Nityesh Schnaderbeck

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Nityesh,

Thanks!!

Gary Hammond,
If you still wish to experiment with this switch. Here is a modified circuit with dead zones, to prevent switching overlaps. ...............

Q2,Q5 and Q8 from the CD4017 decade counter are the dead zones. This is a simple and cheap mod that can be appied to your driver circuit, that will solve the switching overlap problem.

Enjoy and have fun

Kind
Regards
Nityesh Schnaderbeck

That looks like a viable solution that, if I was a little smarter, sould be able to figure out myself.

Also, is there any way I could use 4 SCRs in series in my original circuit and be able to turn them off? Or will I need at least 1 transistor in the string to commutate them back off?

Kind regards,

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

Yes you will need at least one transistor to turn the SCR's off, in the series circuit.

The original 9 Transistor switching engine (the Tri-Symmetrical Circuit) has the transistors connected in a kind of triangle network ring. Because of that all 9 switching devices must have reverse blocking capability, and absolutely no switching overlaps otherwise the desired switching simply won't work.

It would be interesting to know your results, with those lead acid batteries, the heavy lead ions have lots of mass and lots of inertia, and behave as a virtual inductance. This serves to put the voltage and current out of phase, like a coil. Also the battery plates make a capacitor. So it is like having a capacitor and inductor(coil) connected in parallel making a tank circuit. The coil(ions) plus the plate capacitance have a resonant frequency.

Enjoy and have fun.

Kind
Regards
Nityesh Schnaderbeck

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

Here is the circuit diagram for the 3 Battery Tri-Symmetrical tesla switch with Cap Dumping



In my experiment, C1, C2 and C3 are 10uf 250V Polyester Capacitors. All transistors "MJL21194", D1,D2 and D3 "UF5408" ultrafast diodes. In my first experimental build the voltage of C1, C2 and C3 charged to double the voltage of their charging battery.
The Driver Circuits in post 21 can be used to drive the "3 Battery Tri-Symmetrical tesla switch with Cap Dumping".

Kind
Regards
Nityesh Schnaderbeck

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

A picture of the new driver circuit with cap dumping support.

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

In the experiment, there was not enough voltage in the caps to bias the mosfet, so I made 3 mosfet biasing circuits, to make sure the mosfets reach their lowest resistance with cap dumping The additional mosfet driver circuits bias the mosfets at 11V at turn on, no matter what the voltage the CAPs charge to.



The Addional mosfet driver circuit.



the schematic for the cap dumping mosfet driver, (with mosfet shown)


Please note: Pin4 of IC1(LM358) is gnd\negative and pin8 is Positive. There is a mistake in the above schematic.

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

I have the cap dumping working now, here is a scope shot across one of the capacitors,



The waveform is the same for all 3 capacitors (C1,C2 and C3 from circuit diagram on post #25).

I have changed the 10uF caps for 0.1uF.

0.1uF or 0.22uF caps charge to double the battery voltage in this motor..

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

The voltages of each battery remained frozen for over an hour. B1 7.71V, B2 7 71V and B3 7.63V until B2 and B3 dropped to B2 7.70V and B3 7.62V.

During the running of this switch the battery voltages stay frozen for long periods of time.

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

I changed the in my tri-symmetical switch (circuit on post #25) in my experiment from H11G1's to H11D1's.

The motor ran faster from this mod, but then I had trouble with unwanted oscillations, so I added an additional capacitor "C2" (on the driver circuit).

The motor now runs at 2000rpm and the battery voltages still remain frozen for hours.

Below is the driver circuit with the new mods.



Enjoy and Have Fun