I just checked the MSD on Ammonia Sulfide. That is VERY BAD STUFF. Did it stink?
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Originally posted by Faraday88 View PostHi Tom C,
To go off the Grid (OTG) i guess so far amoung the Bedini Tech's only The 10 Coiler is capable of achiveing this task..! but no one so far has succesfully replicated the 10 coiler swapper effect to go off the grid.
your comments please...
rgds,
Faraday88.
1- you cannot swap with the 10 coil without transforming the energy into the battery - cap pulser or something like that
2- few people can afford the size of battery bank required to run truly off the grid with todays lifestyles
3- you need enough amp hours out of your batteries to run the 10 coil, run all your systems. this is not simple to do. look at your loads, then look at how much it will cost you in batteries, upwards of 30,000.00 dollars for enough batteries if you go with rolls surrette or hup. if you buy nickel iron batts it will cost even more with the trade off being lifetime batteries. no one knows how long lead acids will last using the monopole, my guess is they will last forever as the scalar wave is time independant, it wont allow the plates to degrade as long as they are not abused during discharge.
4-start with 1 room in your house, unplug it from the grid and see what you need to run it, no not the bedroom with just a couple of lights, try the kitchen first see what you really need.
5- you need a bank to run the monopole, a bank to run your loads and a bank to be charged. all 3 need enough capacity in them at the end of the day to run the primary side of the monopole. what AH capacity do you need to run your kitchen with enough left over at the end of a 24 hr period?
you are better off running the primary side of your monopole off solar with a cap in parallel to protect the array from the spike. its already free energy..... I will be at parity for my solar system costs this year, so after this its free energy for me.
this is why I say time and time again, learn how to do it with a single coil SG when you are over the top, scale up. don't get on the dragon until you have tamed it.
Tom C
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Originally posted by Bill Terry View PostBill
I have had some good done on my L16s that I got for scrape. What I did was take the acid out and put in Ammonia in the battery's. Put a charge on them with a rejuvenater. I have seen that the lead changes color to gray from black in the cells. The battery's are now holding charges with the Ammonia in it and I will be changing it with Acid and the later use Alum in the cells.
Before I used the Ammonia I had charged them with the acid in them for a lot of cycles and they just never held like they are holding now. I think the Ammonia is making Ammonia Sulfide.
Ron
What Ammonia concentrate did you use and what charge rate? Was the acid sulfuric acid? Did you have a reason for not going to alum and by passing the acid?
Did you check the PH of the Ammonia from what I have seen it would have been acid. Does sulfuric acid and ammonia mix and what do you get?
I know where I can get some L16's for $25 and they would be great if they had any life. I have been doing all my testing with a 220 amp. golf cart battery. It weights about 60 lbs and a L16 about 125 lbs hard for a old man to drain.
Thanks any help is welcome.
Tom C
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Originally posted by Bill Terry View PostBill
I have had some good done on my L16s that I got for scrape. What I did was take the acid out and put in Ammonia in the battery's. Put a charge on them with a rejuvenater. I have seen that the lead changes color to gray from black in the cells. The battery's are now holding charges with the Ammonia in it and I will be changing it with Acid and the later use Alum in the cells.
Before I used the Ammonia I had charged them with the acid in them for a lot of cycles and they just never held like they are holding now. I think the Ammonia is making Ammonia Sulfide.
Ron
What Ammonia concentrate did you use and what charge rate? Was the acid sulfuric acid? Did you have a reason for not going to alum and by passing the acid?
Did you check the PH of the Ammonia from what I have seen it would have been acid. Does sulfuric acid and ammonia mix and what do you get?
I know where I can get some L16's for $25 and they would be great if they had any life. I have been doing all my testing with a 220 amp. golf cart battery. It weights about 60 lbs and a L16 about 125 lbs hard for a old man to drain.
Thanks any help is welcome.
What I did was get a lot of Ammonia at the dollar store. I had done this after I had the battery's on my Rejuvenator for a number of day but it did not help most of them. It seems that I had some bad cell in them.
I made a jig to turn the battery's over to drain them. This was a big help and then I put the ammonia in them. I got distracted and they sat for about 6 months. The voltages stayed the same about 2-3 volts on the battery's. I have 28 battery's. they cost me about 600.00 for them all.
I have not checked the PH on the Ammonia. I have been using the Rejuvenator for charging the battery's with the Ammonia in them and they have been taking a charge and what I am going to do now is find out what ones have bad cells in them and open them up and change the cell out with some of the good cells that are in another bad battery. Change the Ammonia out and put back the acid and put the charger on them and them change out the acid and put a alum solution in them. Then I hope I will be ready to go.
Take Care
Ron
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Hi Tom,
Interesting thread. I unfortunately at the moment am not doing anything off-grid but just thinking about it here's my two cents. You want light, you want heat, you want cool, plumbing and information. Aside from the separate issue of transportation and well uh food I think that covers it, did I miss anything? Of these heat/cool and plumbing energy intensive, light/information less so. I would just add that there is a really pretty nice 10 buck 12 watt/40 watt equivalent LED from home depot. They have these awful mercury laden flouresents that they are trying to bring in but LEDs are improving coming down in price and might well last 20-40 years. I use a "40"watt as a reading light and it 1) behaves more like a 60 watt is somehow just more clear than an incandescent and I "like" the light, unlike fluorescents. So there is a big though decreasing upfront cost, no toxicity concern, and you can cut your lighting wattage even further than CFLs with a decent LED and I suspect it is more healthy. Also, at some point I would like to buy a little vortex tube, drill it into a cooler and see if I couldn't make a low cost refrigerator.Last edited by ZPDM; 02-24-2013, 12:43 AM.
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ZPDM
How about getting the LED lights to work at specific frequencies and while reading or doing your thing around the house receiving some light therapy from the LED's.
or run them at the wrong frequency and toast our brains or something - (if it is possible !). Something to check out I would think.
The led light I use does have a specific frequency, I can see the pulses reflecting on a temperature controlled ceiling-fan, as it speeds up or as it slows down.
I know they pulse the LED's to make them brighter and use less currant but what effect will that frequency have on people ?
Light therapy - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
TheunisHey !
WHAT HAVE YOU DONE WITH THE PORTION OF SOLAR ENERGY THAT WAS ALLOCATED TO YOU TODAY? !
JUST THINK ABOUT IT . . .
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Theunis,
There was some honest research over at Energetic Forum reported, it might have been Jonny Davos (great poker name by the Way) or Jeanna or Lidmotor or Slayer, now that I think about it I think it came from someone like Kubick or Kubrick, there's just so much going on now so quickly who could ever hope to keep it all straight Anyways they were taking the kHz output of a joule thief and using a 555 timer to pulse an LED or other load at closer to 60 Hz thus furthering the efficiency of the Joule Thief circuit. Sounds like a lot of work to me but they were getting very good results. As for health effects, 1) it is getting astray of the thread and 2) Tom C would probably know an order of magnitude or so more than me on the topic. Then again if we can keep the thread off topic for a hundred years or so your toasted brains concern might no longer be such an issue. Or from another vantage, what does it matter in the face of eternity? Thanks to the Christ we will all continue on and for many this will be a very good thing.
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Can you draw me a drawing of your jig for turning over your batteries? How much acid do they hold? So you used a Rejuvenator on the battery for 6 months?
What kind and how much power? Do I understand you did not check the battery, but just let it be? are you working with just one battery?
How many good one's do you think you will get out of the 28?
I don't like to play with the acid. No stink may mean it's not Ammonia Sulfide.
Sorry for all the questions but I think there may be a more than little black art here.
Thanks for the help, and I will kept you up on what I do.
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Hi Bill
Can you draw me a drawing of your jig for turning over your batteries?
What I did was make a box that would hold the batteries with one side open so I could slide the Bat into it and had block around the edges so the bats would not fall out when they are upside down. I have 2 small A frame that have a rod out of wood like a closet rod that will work as a shaft that will turn and it is fix to the box at alittle above center so when it is up side down it will be off balance and lean forward to stay in place. I have a stop so it will only turn about 185*.
How much acid do they hold? About 3/4+ of a gal
So you used a Rejuvenator on the battery for 6 months? No I just ran them through the charges cycles setting a number of times
What kind and how much power? the charger was set on high
Do I understand you did not check the battery, but just let it be? After I drained the acid out I just left them with the Ammonia and they set for the long time.
are you working with just one battery? I am working with 4 at a time I have a 4K/24volt inverter and the charger is a 24v
How many good one's do you think you will get out of the 28? I have 5 out of 12 so far and I think I will have 12 or more just with the battery and then I will start changing the cells out of the bad one and hope to have 22 to 24 batterys when all done.
I don't like to play with the acid. No stink may mean it's not Ammonia Sulfide. Its all out side and it is very cold in the 20 to 45 in the day time so that may be the reason for no stink. I have taken the lead out of some old battery and put the he wood stove and with the heat the lead cleans up to a soft gray color.ammonia in a glass jar with the black lead and put the jar in a pot of water on the wood stove
Sorry for all the questions but I think there may be a more than little black art here.
Thanks for the help, and I will kept you up on what I do.
Hopes this helps
RonLast edited by Ron Hammar; 02-26-2013, 01:52 AM.
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Originally posted by LesK View Postoops! sorry about that My bad...
So if that is the case and your running 2500 watts you are twice that. I have just been thinking about how to answer my question as to whether it was really worth it to build a larger multicoil ssg. If I am getting anything close to Ralph's machine then I would say it's worth it. Especially if I use the large comparator circuit. I have improved my comparator ckt with great success and appreciate your input on that. But I still think there are things JB does that go beyond it. Anyway if you have a unit that is 9 times more out than in, it would be reasonable to conclude that there is a cost savings in solar panels. and you would be able to use a smaller tracker or get much more out of a larger one.
However I believe it was John K. that said JB only designed the ten coil for 24volts due to those older batteries and it seemed he was implying we should run these SSG's at 12 volts. that would limit us to the 12 volt units. Not a problem obviously.
Here is another thing I have been considering. Since we have devices in the home that use 2500watts but only for short times such as an electric hot plate etc. I have been thinking of using some of those tractor batteries like the D8 units to supply short term high power. For example take a toaster. It uses quite a bit of power but only for 15 minutes or so. A large set of CCA batteries could handle that with no problem but if you use deep cycle you would have to expend a small fortune.
It just seems to me that with this technology we can get a lot more creative than what I am seeing...
another example is to use our batteries and SSG's in combinations like pumping stations to pump power from one bank to another bank in stages with gain. Alum for the intermediate stages and acid for handling inverters.
Les
'However I believe it was John K. that said JB only designed the ten coil for 24volts due to those older batteries and it seemed he was implying we should run these SSG's at 12 volts. that would limit us to the 12 volt units. Not a problem obviously.'
this system is a very tricky mechanism involving the charging of the secondary and keeping the primary also topped up. did'nt you see in video that John changes many Switch gears/ breakers before he shows one of the bank Loaded with the 2000w load banks and a drill machine..
When the Secondary goes low, the 10 coiler is run again and tops up not only the secondary but keeps up the Voltage of the primary Battery aswell ...seemlessly....,
This truely exhibits Overunity of all of John's machines put in the public domain..
My personal opinion is that both 12V and 24V Functions are in use
Rgds,
Faraday88.'Wisdom comes from living out of the knowledge.'
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Ron
Well I just started to charge the test battery again after draining and refilling It was shorted so after bouncing it and retesting it a few times I have given up on it ,I think. It has been raining here still 75F but solar panels have a low output 2.5 KW on a good day 1 on a rainy day.
Will restart and re plan.
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Originally posted by utopiandream View PostI have just purchased a 60amp solar trackerIII,I have 2 solar panels plan to get more,I have a large inverter.
So what batteries shall I get.
Should I have two banks one on charge the other on the inverter & what watts/amp hour
Can any one help
Tom C
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Tom C
I tried to get an LLE from R-Charge but they were out of stock.So then was offered a tracker.
I have been following all the free energy info & started to go round in circles.So I decided that I am not capable of producing circuits or SSG's myself.When I found that John Bedini technology was already avaliable,I just had to buy in.
The Solar Tracker was for me.I already had two panels,& a large no name inverter in the garage.I have lived in houses with solar power so know the practicalities.
I live in Potugal where we have loads of sun.
If I put the max in for the 60amp tracker.
Im not sure about the inverter I will buy a new one if the one I have cant cope.
Batteries,lead acid?I guess.Now normal solar battery bank they say,keep the batteries 50% full & have power over for cloudy days.
But Im guessing you only need 1/3 to a 1/4 in amp hours to what you would normally need.
Plus no one has confirmed weather you need one battery bank on charge the other bank on the inverter.
The load I can control to fit the amp hours.
So the question is if I have max going in with the right number of panels I get the right inverter to deal with the load.What amp hour batteries shall I get,& do I get two battery banks.
I have read free energy generation & watched battery secrets three times now.
I am realy excited to set up this system.
Many thanks to John Bedini,Tom Bearden,Peter Lindemann,Tesla & all you guys that answer all these stupid questions,Thank you.
Calvin
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