Idea for a large multifilar SS SG

[James_Somewhere_In_Idaho]

OK...I have this idea for my version of a replication of Nityesh Schnaderbeck's awesome "Omnibus" 81-filar SS SG. He told me that it was the "best performing machine." he has. I have a 5 gallon bucket with..I don't know...about 80-100 lbs of 18 AWG Essex wire to play with, as well as 11 lbs of 23 AWG and 1 lbs of 26. I already have about 50 MJL21194s, and a bunch of resistors and diodes. I have several amp/hours of battery banks (about 6000ah @ 12 volts) that I can play with and access to some golf cart batteries, as well as the big batteries... A nice 30 amp 12 volt bench power supply, a scope, and a host of electronic monitoring/measuring gizmo’s...

Soooo...here is my idea: I can get a bunch more MJL21194s (maybe from Tom C), do a bunch of matching of components (I have a device that measures parameters of transistors, resistor, inductors, and diodes, plus other ICs). pull 81 strands of 18 AWG out to 130 or 150 feet and litze them. Wind a nice coil up. Meticulously construct Nityesh's version of John B's circuit. and go from there. Nityesh stated that his wire lengths were 460 feet long. They must have been really small wire to fit on the Essex wire spool (my reason for limiting the wire lengths for the 18 AWG to 130-150 feet).

Some ideas to toss around:

1) Wind additional strands wrapped up with the 81 strands, for purposes of creating a series looped generator coil (ala Peter Lindemann demonstrating the SG at the last conference) for either, back popping the primary, or charging another bank of primary batteries for swapping with the run bank.

2) Another idea would be to separate out additional windings and create a "mini-me" circuit similar to the larger circuit only with a cap dump for purposes of charging a bank for primary side swapping. And, run the big circuit to charge half of the big batteries--dividing them into 2-3000ah banks swapping between charging and discharging) hitting them with direct radiant charging.

3) Another idea, would be to run the replication from solar panels (my preferred method), however, I would want to build the run side of that myself (instead of purchasing a TST5) for the experience of doing so, I would need coaching in regard to setting up the buffering circuit (caps, and such) between the SS SG circuit and the panels.

4) I could take a lesson from John K. and use small solar (probably 350-500 watts), running it through a buffer circuit to power a smaller "mini-me" version of Nityesh's "Omnibus 81-filar"...maybe 16 or 20 circuits...and a comparator-cap-dump into one of two banks of golf cart or LifePo4 batteries, switching them to run the big 81-filar coil unit which swaps between the two big banks, charging them with direct radiant and discharging the charged bank with a heater or some-such load.

I can use the 30 amp bench supply to run some "shake-down cruises" and tuning the circuit, and I have plenty of the "usual" monitoring/measuring devices to keep track of things.

This will be my first solid state build and I plan to build a smaller (but still large) version, first, to test with--tuning and such, as I have need of a set-up like that as well. However, my main reason for building that first, is to help in designing the "Omnibus" replication. I am not afraid of big projects, and have some half decent skills. I might benefit in regard to direction from some of you "electronic and/or SS SG gurus" and that would be greatly appreciated. My hope is to pull off some next level stuff to motivate and inspire someone else to take it even higher.

Here is a link to Nityesh's "Omnibus 81-filar" (I named it that, and Nityesh seemed to like that name):

http://www.energyscienceforum.com/album.php?albumid=80

I am a big believer in "form plus function equals art" and any creation of mine follows that principal. So I hope to make Nityesh proud.

Looking forward to hearing from you all

James

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

1) Wind additional strands wrapped up with the 81 strands, for purposes of creating a series looped generator coil (ala Peter Lindemann demonstrating the SG at the last conference) for either, back popping the primary, or charging another bank of primary batteries for swapping with the run bank.
James

I have tried this idea, and It doesn't work, It will impede the performance of the back emf, as the back spike will get shorted out from the parallel capacitance's between the parallel wires.

But if you had another spool on top and had welding rods through the center of both spools, and had the second spool as a generator coil. Then you can connect the generator coil back through itself. This would be, a transformer of a kind. Maybe a "linear Amp Regulator" could go on the generator coil.

[James_Somewhere_In_Idaho]

Hmmm...thank you Nityesh, that is good advice. I was wondering why you ran the "Omnibus"coil, with a core, since most people think running them as an air core makes them work better. If I choose to build a slave generator coil, on top like you are suggesting, I would need an extended core to magnetically connect them, but if I choose not to, do you think I should run it with a core (welding rod for example) anyway, or run it as an air core? And, what would you base that reasoning on (since you are apparently the only individual I have heard of who has built such a device)?

[GlenWV]

Greetings:

Wouldn't solid state be better off as an air core?

That is, unless one wants to stack coils.


glen

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

I have run this as an air core too, I have been told by John Korn years ago in the monopole forum, That you should be careful where you place your body with the air core, especially one as big as the 81 strand coil.

I believe that certain frequencies can resonate with your body organs, either adding energy to them of extracting energy from them. This can be a healing benefit or the opposite. If you are living in an area where lots of people are live close to you, you don't know how your machine is affecting them. So I think an iron core maybe safer. On a big radiant oscillator, but this is only my opinion.

With the welding rod core, the inductance was so high that it would resonate at a very low frequency like about 20, 30 Hz. With an air core the air is the magnetic conductor and you have no control of where the magnetic field leaks too, also the properties of the air changes according to atmospheric conditions, and this affects the inductance of the coil and frequency, I am not sure if this really matters or not.

It was suggested that I could use an aluminum core as this would load the coil. You can move the core in and out to tune the oscillator. Also the 81 strand oscillator would only draw 5 amps, and I wanted it to draw 10 amps.

But if you had another spool on top and had welding rods through the center of both spools, and had the second spool as a generator coil. Then you can connect the generator coil back through itself. This would be, a transformer of a kind. Maybe a "linear Amp Regulator" could go on the generator coil.

In the advanced handbook it shows the schematic of the generator coils of the watson machine with a capacitor connected in parallel with the coils. I believe the coils are multi-strand and are connected back through themselves. And the capacitors that is shown connected in parallel with the coils, is showing the equivalent capacitance between the parallel windings. So these generator coils are capacitor coils and are making use of the electrostatic component within the magnetic field as well as an energy storage. A capacitor connected in parallel with a coil is known as a tank circuit, a tank circuit shorts out all frequencies except the one it's resonating at. The currents between the capacitor and inductor in a Tank circuit at resonance is very high.

Tank circuits are used in radios to tune the station, and your tuning control is a variable capacitor or in the old car radios an adjustable inductor.

[James_Somewhere_In_Idaho]

So, Nityesh, correct me if I am wrong...a gen coil on top of the main coil, with the same core, might affect how the big coil resonates (I am referring to it's "tank circuit" qualities)? If so, that may be a way to tune it to a certain resonant frequency???.... I like the idea of it resonating at a lower Hz. The radiant potential might be higher than if it oscillates really fast...and that means better charging, to the best of my understanding.

Another "core" idea would be to purchase some of the new "soft steel shot"that shotgun re-loaders use, swirl them around in acrylic paint, let them dry, and cast them with fibreglass resin or epoxy as the core. I have heard that doing something like this might reduce the possibilities of eddy-currents even more so than using welding rod (from an independent researcher out in the boonies in Idaho)...I could build a double coil spool with round acrylic for the core-support and bond round sheets of acrylic (with appropriate sized holes for the core support) for the bobbin ends...kind of a double-decker bobbin...then either cast the steel shot, or use the standard welding rods...Though...on this build, I am inclined to use the standard method--tried and true (welding rods)...what do you think? What diameter core do you think I should use? I know the wheels do not benefit from much over 7/8-3/4 inch, but this is a different animal...I am really liking the "tank circuit/generator idea...is there any math available, or online calculators that can help me with strand length and number of strands for a particular output, that you are aware of?

I knew that there might be a lot of EMF generated. However, I had no idea it might be harmful (my only EMF experiences with John's technology has been in a positive way...until now, that is). This is important, since I already have problems around smart meters and cell phones (can not hold one against my head without adverse effects) I should research harmful resonant frequencies and beneficial resonant frequencies and try to stay on the positive side. I may have to manufacture some shielding, if I can't "tune it over to the "light side"(Yoda heard musing in the background...hehehe). Thank you for that warning.

As always, Nityesh, thank you for your thoughts.Your input is always appreciated.

James

[James_Somewhere_In_Idaho]

Hi GlenWV

Thank you for your question. I have heard the same as you. This will be my first SS SG, so I have no direct experience with the "core or no core" issue. However, this build is quite a different animal--way bigger than most experimenters have built, and so I must side with those more experienced than me. Here is what I am attempting to replicate (Nityesh's "Omnibus 81-filar"):

http://www.energyscienceforum.com/album.php?albumid=80

Its a exceptional work of art, is it not?

Hope that helps, James

[cdsp1]

I also started to do advanced manual low resistance dynamo experiment, being the purchase of materials, the coil is very large, an enameled wire coils around 3kg. Core is very large, about 0.9kg R60 using welding rod.
Picture for 3D rendering design, not physical.

[James_Somewhere_In_Idaho]

Hi cdsp1

Now, that is a sweet looking ride!

Let me see if I am correct. I see the main coil hiding under the center of the wheel, two geni coils symmetrically on either side of it, with analogue ammeters and volt meters for both the run side and the charge side, and a nice bank of capacitors, for what is evidentially a cap discharge unit for the charge side. As symmetrical as this machine looks, I bet that the tranny circuit is hiding on the opposite side of the cap dump circuit, am I correct? A very fine example of "form plus function equals art"...

Questions:

1) how many circuits/strands are on the main coil, and how do you have it configured w(hat size wire, and how long)?

2) Are those magnets in "superpole" configuration?

3) do you have it running in, what is called, "common ground" or "generator" mode?

4) what do you use the geni coils for and how do you have them configured (wire size, length, do they consist of one long wire or multiple strands and how many, are they in series, do you run them through a cap circuit, etc)?

And 5) That is definitely the "high performance sports-car" version of an SSG...Have you taken her for a spin around the block yet? Yeah!

Fine attention to details cdsp1..That is just about how I would like something of mine to look like, if I had built something similar.....impressive! VERY impressive! Please keep me informed of your progress...

Oops, I see you say that the picture is 3-D rendering...my bad...that looks as real as it gets...wow! what workstation GPU and program are you using???

James

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

I also started to do advanced manual low resistance dynamo experiment, being the purchase of materials, the coil is very large, an enameled wire coils around 3kg. Core is very large, about 0.9kg R60 using welding rod.
Picture for 3D rendering design, not physical.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]4180[/ATTACH]

Wow very nice design, the "SSG 3000" space age design, very nice artwork.

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

Regarding the 81 strand solid state, here are some old posts from the monopole3 group back in 2008, it outlines the specifications of the the coil of the 81 strand. I think I was incorrect about the coil being 450 feet, I got that one wrong reading these posts again, I think the coil is 160 feet.

I purchased the coil from Rick back in 2008, so I made the 81 strand about 7 years ago.

[Bedini_Monopole3] Re: Biggest Bedini Coil you ever did see, 20 pounds 6/11/2008 1:01 p.m.

Can't say I'm not thinking big.

This is a 20 Pound 8" diameter 6" high Coil with 81 #23 Wires Twisted
for Monopole or Solid State circuits. It is 20 pounds with the R60
welding rod in the core (which is bigger than the smaller coils) It
was one custom coil made for someone. The wires are not perfectly
twisted as it is very hard to make. Very difficult to twist and put
on a spool.

Believe it or not this is only a half ideal coil. Ideally you would
have very thin wire and the circuit multiplied on each wire. But this
is about as practically ideal that you can get as any smaller wire
and you are going to break them or scrub off the insulation when
twisting this many at once. Also, to multiply the circuit is costly
and time consuming. If you do it yourself you probably want to only
twist one side at a time.

80 strands at 0.15A at 12V is (2W x 80) 160W draw on the solid state
or monopole circuits in the sweet spot setting shown in the book. You
can see how costly and involved it is to make this towards the more
ideal settings. Or you can up the primary voltages to 24V and draw
320W, or 36V and draw 480W, 48V and draw 640W.

Or you can bring your efficiency down and push 1A each wire and
transistor to draw about 1kw at 12V or 2kw at 24V, or 3kw at 36V, or
4kw at 48V (which is not easy to work with).

If you were going to use this on a monopole then you would want to
use bigger ceramic magnets on your larger rotor; like 12 per pole
(for how-many poles you want) where 4 side by side (lengthwise) would
be tripple stacked. So you would have an 8 inch thick rotor of
whatever diameter you want. I envision a 6 or 8 foot monopole 8
inches thick. Can you imagine!! "Can we build it? Yes we can!"

Rick

[Bedini_Monopole3] Re: Biggest Bedini Coil you ever did see, 20 pounds 6/11/2008 3:48 p.m.

If one was really ambitious they could make it a multicoiler as
well!! In this case you would need to have the coils spaced a good
distance from each other; I would say at least two coil spaces or 16
inches. One of these days maybe I'll do it.

Anyway, it is much easier to make this coil where all wires are exact
length and in exact position rather than having many smaller coils
not exactly positioned equally.

John Bedini and I planned several years back to make 5 gallon size
coils that would have 200 strands for a project we never got around
to. Who knows, he probably has by now.

I think this is the maximum weight of a coil I would want to twist.
The total wire diameter was 1/2" so it just fit in my drill. What I
did was cut all the wires so that they were the same size (it is
inevitable that some will be longer than others and will not make for
a perfect twist, but that is fine). Then I twisted the end a little
in the direction the drill was going to turn. Then I put tape around
the end of the wire so that I could have something secure for the
drill. The drill does not like to grip wire by itself. And when you
are spinning it you are pulling all the weight of the wire (19
pounds) so it will want to come out. This is why I say to do half at
a time.

Rather than make this a monopole motor I would be more inclined to
make it a Bedini SSG Pendulum. At least if I was driving it in the
sweet spot lower power range. If I was pushing any kind of higher
voltage or power then the thing would be too strong for that. In the
lower sweet spot setting it would be awesome to see the results. If I
get a moment I don't have I'll test it out that way.

Rick

[Bedini_Monopole3] Re: Biggest Bedini Coil you ever did see, 20 pounds 7/11/2008 5:32 p.m.

This could be used for a motor setup or solid state. It was the solid
state/motor coil in the book times 80. After making 10 more coils for
the advanced kit I just made one big one with the same length of
wire. But it didn't wind 450 times as the wire was much thicker.

Nope, you come nowhere near powering a car or mower with 2kw. You
need about 9kw motor to power a rider lawnmower if you want 12 or
more HP.

Running the circuit with higher amps will get you out of the sweet
spot but it will still give you a desired result. For example, on my
rider lawnmower with a big Bedini monopole motor I will switch it
between pushing 500 ma per circuit (2kw total draw @24v) to a much
higher amp draw (3A or 6kw) using shorter and #18 wire. If I push
three amps or more I am really pushing the transistors beyond the
optimum range, yet I am still able to get about one to one charging
in this system, even though the batteries are way undersized (as the
system would really want a bank 10 times the size, but you cannot
carry all those batteries). So my point is that ideally you would
want thousands of tiny wires and individual transistors branches, but
one has to be practical. Using 160' of #23 wire at 1 amp is not ideal
but a whole lot more efficient than 100' of #18 wire. But I didn't
have the time or money to multiply circuits when I built it a few
years back.

Anyway, this is why the fan SSG on the front page gets mechanical
output than any of the others, because it uses more strands towards
the more ideal sweet spot. I think John used #23 wire as he gave me
the rest of the spool he used for it last time I was there to make
another system.

So it depends on how much one is willing to spend on parts and time
in what one wants to build. The process is all the same but the
results are better or worse. I'm content to get one to one charging
for a free mechanical, heat, or additional charge in these systems.
So it is like solar panels. You can spend so much on the regular type
or you could maybe spend more for the newer more efficient kind
coming out. There is a practical limit and an end in the quest for
the greatest gains.

1 amp is fine. 3 amps is workable. 500ma is getting better. 120ma is
a practical limit on any scaled system, which is what is shown in the
book. Of course you could go much lower and push 1ma or less on
really fine gauge wire and small transistors by the thousands. But
just who is going to build that? I have done it but not in the
thousands.

So I figure I would have it switch between drawing 120ma and drawing
1A on that coil. It depends on how much power you need over time in
your charging bank, and how efficient you want to be. The lower will
give you greater efficiency but the higher will give you a faster
usable charge. You will get more out over what is drained but will
take longer. In the same way, if you run a system with x1 size
batteries and then run it again with with x4 size batteries you will
get more total useable energy out if it than with the smaller battery
as it can only take so much in a small cup. Again, as you increase
the amps in the system you lessen the beneficial process. But you can
still get away with fairly high amps and still have enough to make it
worth it.

Rick

[James_Somewhere_In_Idaho]

Awesome, thank you Nityesh. I will study those posts thoroughly.

OK...a couple more questions for Nityesh, Tom C., Patrick, and/or one or more of the other "advanced guys"...

First: as I have stated before, I have only built wheeled units (so far)--and, this will be my first SS SG. Nithyesh suggested I run this replication of his Omnibus coil with a core installed. His ran at 20-30 Hz with the core installed, and went uncontrollable with it out. He postulated that there might be some harmful EMF going on with the core out, and maybe not with it installed. I would like mine to run at 7.83 Hz—the Schumann Resonance, if at all possible...Research shows that if humans, plant, and animals are subjected to this frequency, they generally end up living healthier. This would matter, since it would be a big powerful oscillator and I am hyper-sensitive to bad EMF. Actually, I would prefer to be able to “fine tune” it between 7-8 Hz—the Alpha-Theta brainwave border, “where the optimal range for visualization, mind programming and using the creative power of your mind begins. It’s the mental state which you consciously create your reality. At this frequency, you are conscious of your surroundings however your body is in deep relaxation.” ( www.finerminds.com/mind-power/brain-waves ). I would hope that I could do this without saturating the coil too much, and causing a lot of heat...I am hoping to have a win-win situation.

If I can build this replication (and other smaller ones I have planned) tuned to run between 7-8 Hz, and maybe having them running around me in my home, they could counteract the bad EMF side effects I have been experiencing from smart meters noisy wall current, and cell phones...just thinking out loud.

Of course, my wiring will be different. Nityesh's consisted of 81 strands of 23 AWG un-litzed wire weighing 18.93 lbs. I only have about 11 lbs of 23 AWG, and I have BIG batteries, so mine will be 81 strands of 18 AWG 130-150 feet long, litzed, weighing between 50.63 and 62,31 lbs. Or, since it is bigger wire, maybe run 41 strands...but that would not make a good replication, and since I have the wire, why not build the 81 strander? It will probably be wound on a custom acrylic bobbin made to fit it. I will be running a welding rod core, or I might try the soft steel shot coated in copper or with acrylic paint, then epoxy or fiberglass resin molded into the core support, to slow down the oscillations.

I had not heard of "gen mode" or "common ground mode" or "mode 3" before Peter L. discussed common ground mode in the 2014 conference video.

My questions, albeit a newbie ones, are: can I run a solid state SG in common ground mode, and if so, could it have similar effects as Peter had demonstrated at the 2014 conference? Example: draw 50% or so more current on the input, and put out 100% more on the output, because it is passing the current through the run battery twice, once forward and once back, making wider pulses, happening twice as often, causing a lot more ZAP for the energy input (I have really big batteries, so this matters)? If so, along with running it with a core (effectively slowing it down a bit), how might I be able to set this up to naturally resonate at 7.83 or “tunable” between 7-8 Hz? And, is it even possible to tune it to 7-8 Hz naturally? If not, should I try to use PWM? I have some DMX512 PWM dimmer devices that I can control from my PC (instead of an Adruino, or some such thing) that I can run a wide range of PWM—optocoupled...Though, I would rather tune it to self-resonate between 7-8 Hz on its own...And, if I could get it running between 7-8 Hz, would that equate to too much coil saturation? And, if so, could I put counter-measures into place for that? What say you "advanced guys"?

I know, I know...you are probably saying to yourself “He is thinking too big”...However, that is what I do best, and I work hard to make it happen...and I have plenty of fine examples of that...soooo...let me...okey-dokey??? All of your input really, REALLY helps, so know that you are all appreciated.

Thank you, James

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

I am very certain you can run the oscillator in common ground mode (Generator Mode), a very excellent idea. It would be very easy to modify the circuit to do this. I could show you the circuit(The oscillator in generator mode) here, but I am not sure if it is infringing upon copyright and stuff. I would have to ask Tom C about this.

[James_Somewhere_In_Idaho]

That would be awesome Nityesh. Thank you. Please ask Tom's permission. It is my understanding that we can share such things that John has let loose for us to experiment with, unless the intent is to sell it, or make money off of it--which is not my intention. I am sure Tom can make that clear for us.

A side note: besides running the Omnibus coil with a core--effectively slowing it down, I figure that by running it with the bigger wire (the 18 AWG), that will slow it down a little as well...making it easier to tune to my preferred 7-8 Hz for other beneficial reasons spoken of in above posts...what do you think?

Also, Have you experimented with, or has anyone else out there experimented with optimal wire length for multi-filar coils, specifically for 18 AWG? And, the same question in regard to 23 AWG and 26 AWG ( the other wire sizes I have)...with as big of a project as this, I would tend to lean towards a consensus of opinion backed by experiments, rather than waste a lot of wire...if you know what I mean...I see John use 130 foot lengths, quite a lot, for his 20 AWG wire. I do not remember hearing him say anything about 18 AWG lengths, though the 10-coiler seemed to have 8 strands of 18 AWG, with 4 transistors per coil (double strands per circuit to lower impedance for his big batteries) if I remember correctly...Anyway, I think that is more important than most would think. I believe John chose his wire length based on his years of phenomenology (as Tom Bearden put it). Anyway, knowing optimal wire lengths would help me "just build it."

Anyway, Thank you again Nityesh...you are awesome!

[Nityesh Schnaderbeck]

I would prefer to be able to “fine tune” it between 7-8 Hz—the Alpha-Theta brainwave border, “where the optimal range for visualization, mind programming and using the creative power of your mind begins. It’s the mental state which you consciously create your reality. At this frequency, you are conscious of your surroundings however your body is in deep relaxation.” ( www.finerminds.com/mind-power/brain-waves ).

If you are interested in enhancing your consciousness have a look at this utube channel https://www.youtube.com/user/777ALAJE I know it is off the subject.