Hi Aaron
how can i measure the voltage on the caps with a scope?
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1. Tom could have to comment on that.
2. Putting an amp gauge to show the output pulses? That won't really show what the output is anyway, but is just an indicator for a reference point. The demo model Peter built for last year's conference has the meter showing the output of the comparator and it works just fine.
3. Anything you put on the output path will affect the radiant going to the battery - with having a meter there, probably too small to notice a difference. You can see the huge difference if you have a diode that is too slow to let out the spike compared to a fast one, you can see 2-3 times increase in what goes to the battery by having the right diode compared to one that is insufficient. I'm not saying the right diode increases your output multi times, but having one too slow can cut the output by double or more. If you're using a comparator circuit, I wouldn't put a volt meter on the output necessarily, but you can meter the voltage on the caps with a scope just fine.
4. Just trial and error - will be difference for each build but you can start with a gap the same thickness as one magnet. Get it up to full speed for that gap then open and close it until you find what the fastest speed is and leave it there. Do that before going to the gen coil so you at least know the motoring side is optimized. So keep the gen coil gap at max while tuning the power coil gap.
5. You can make it with one winding. Peter and I wound the gen coil on the demo unit he built with 10 wires I believe, then we just put them in series. If you're not planning on cutting the ends then putting each winding in series with the next, you'll have half the wire going in one direction and half the other - don't know what you're talking about unless you cut the ends then series each winding. Make sense?
6. You'd have to check the advanced book for the gen coil specs. I don't recall what the final specs were. We did all kinds of experiments with the coil. There are also ways to short the coil at the right time to greatly increase the voltage and decrease drag at the right point, but we didn't even get into that because we were focused on explaining what John's own experiments were and not ours. Anyway, I think those specs are in the book of what we got from the gen coil.
7. That is something you just have to run the experiment to learn what works best.
8. That depends on your goals. At least both converts the spikes to forward normal energy so that the battery you're charging will be compatible with other normal chargers.
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Misc. Advanced Bedini Questions
I would appreciate your suggestions/experience on the following questions:
1.) I do not have the JB Comparator at this time. With that in mind, where, on the TeslagenX 8 channel board, do the 3 wires connect that go to the SPST SSG/Generator switch?
2.) Am I more likely to blow a transistor by putting an analog Amp gauge, connected with 10AWG wire, in the charge circuit?
3.) Does putting an analog Volt gauge across the charge output increase the risk of: a. blowing a transistor; b. affect the charging/radiant energy going to the battery?
4.) What would be considered starting points to set the gaps between the wheel and a. the Power coil; b. the Generator coil?
5.) Can the Generator coil be made with one continuous length of #16 magnet wire that is walked 100 ft. between two stakes, to make the 10 loops, then twisted to make the cable? After twisting, the cable will shorten to less than 100ft. Is that OK?
6.) What voltage and current ranges should I expect from the Generator coil?
7.) Should I just go ahead and build-in a large full-wave rectifier and a large electrolytic cap to improve the performance of the Generator coil?
8.) If you had your choice of the Comparator or the Linear Amp, which would
you add first?
Regards,
J.D.Last edited by jd_zinke@hotmail.com; 05-08-2015, 04:53 PM. Reason: Seeking opinion/observation/experienceTags: None
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