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I smoked my Potentiometer...

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  • I smoked my Potentiometer...

    Ok everything was running great and charged multiple batteries and was able to get a 12v up to 15.5v and the battery was two years old and wouldn't take a normal charge, that battery is now performing nicely. Now, the next battery to revive seemed too be really low on voltage meter and I barely spun the wheel when the NE started to flicker, I quickly stopped the wheel but it seems it had already burned out my pot.

    I had previously tuned it with the timing light for one pulse, which left me low on the pot resistance. Should I have opened the pot higher before throwing on a different battery? since the impedance was high in the charging battery? It really burned it out quickly. POT stats: 1k ohm 1w vishay model 594-149-1102 from mouser. Or should I be using a higher wattage pot? (100 ohms 1 w on each of the 7 circuits)

    Is there any testing equipment to assist in my learning curve on these problems so they don't happen again? Unsure how to go about matching resistance to the impedance....

  • #2
    Kevin, you should tune your machine and then replace the pot with a fixed resistor. 1W power rating is too low. JB uses a 10W fixed resistor on his machine.

    John K.

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    • #3
      Thanks John,

      I will do that. But in order to re-tune I need another pot, should I get a higher wattage to tune it? The other 7 100ohms 1w resistors stay the same?

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      • #4
        Hi Kevin,

        I would use a 5W pot, make sure you get a linear one, not a logarithmic. I don't know your machine but 100ohm base resistors sound too low. I use 470ohm 1/4W on my machines - you want the highest resistance base resistors you can use and a low resistance master resistor. E.g. JB uses 470ohm 1/4W base resistors and a 12ohm 10W master resistor.

        John K.

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        • #5
          Hi John-

          Something to keep in mind...the intermediate sg guide is telling people to fine tune by using matched 100ohm resistors and a 1k pot. I was just reading thru the new version so it's fresh in my mind.

          Originally posted by John_Koorn View Post
          Hi Kevin,

          I would use a 5W pot, make sure you get a linear one, not a logarithmic. I don't know your machine but 100ohm base resistors sound too low. I use 470ohm 1/4W on my machines - you want the highest resistance base resistors you can use and a low resistance master resistor. E.g. JB uses 470ohm 1/4W base resistors and a 12ohm 10W master resistor.

          John K.

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi John and Branch,

            This is a link to my build which I built right out of the book and I can confirm as well that the book states the 100ohm resistor and the 1k pot.
            http://www.energyscienceforum.com/showthread.php?t=1247

            This leaves me a bit puzzled can you offer a bit more color on the new viewpoint on the resistors John?

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            • #7
              I'm just going off what JB does and what we tested in his shop which gave us a COP>1. I'm getting the same results with my machine with this configuration.

              Your machine maybe different.

              John K.

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              • #8
                Why is there a contradiction between what JB does and what is in the intermediate book? The book is something I paid for, but this forum is free. So seems like the paid for advice should be the most relevant to what JB does in my opinion.

                I am not upset...just curious why the decision was made to deviate from John's build in the literature.

                I move for this to be revised in the next document update.

                Originally posted by John_Koorn View Post
                I'm just going off what JB does and what we tested in his shop which gave us a COP>1. I'm getting the same results with my machine with this configuration.

                Your machine maybe different.

                John K.

                Comment


                • #9
                  question for everyone on tuning....

                  what are you fine tuning for? is there a "micro" sweet spot you need? or are you interested in using your single coil machine to charge bigger batteries faster? tuning for what? in attraction mode there is no sweet spot.... I have heard at least 100 times over the past few years 680 or 470 ohms....... please post your results!! if you have better cop at different resistances please tell us.

                  Tom C


                  experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

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                  • #10
                    John Koorn,
                    Just for clarification I seem to recall you used 100 Ohm base resistors on your Superpole (Early on in the life of this forum).
                    Looks like you subscribe to using 470 Ohm base resistors on your Monopole.
                    Is that correct?

                    Personally I used a 100W (1K) rheostat to begin with and stepped it down to a 2W potentiometer over time . But 2W is a little on the small side and a 5W would be more suitable.
                    Thanks
                    James
                    Last edited by James Milner; 11-27-2013, 03:53 AM.

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                    • #11
                      OK, so let me go out on a limb here and paint a picture of how I see it.

                      The version of the SG John B has offered us to build shows us exactly what going on but I was too busy copying it to see the magic that was happening. The best description is indeed fluid dynamics and is best depicted via the analogy of the hydraulic ram pump in the intermediate manual.

                      I will expand on it a bit to illustrate what I’m seeing, as I believe the description in the book is missing some key elements for a layman like myself to understand.

                      The water in the pump is the energy potential (the attraction method gets it there) and the trigger, once you have tuned to one pulse, guides a great deal of this potential into the input of the pipe (one pipe). This is where the pot or fixed master resistor is and the resistance is as low as possible to both achieve the one pulse (one pipe) and to allow as much of the energy potential to flow to the multi-circuit (seven potential high outputs). The high wattage protects it from the heat that is generated from the huge flow of potential flowing through towards the circuits.

                      At this point, the energy potential is divided into 7 resistors, which are set at the highest level to protect the transistor but still allow it to turn on. The heat is no longer a problem here in comparison to the master as it is now divided into seven potential high outputs pipes. You can also calculate this by taking the 12ohms 10w, pushed by no more than .91 amps from a 12v source. Hence you can calculate further divided into the 7 circuits and estimate the need for the ¼ watt to the transistor. (Properly sizing this is based on your individual coil and setup, input voltage and amps used.)

                      This energy is building in the transistor through the power coils and the trigger opens the gate (main valve) and it pushes it to the charging battery via the diode 2 (check valve). At this point the trigger works in reverse and pushes that radiant potential back through the diode 1 to push through the high rated resistor which protects the master resistor (by the way the ¼ watt here is plenty as the radiant is cool) and assists the wheel with the generating of the attraction mode by pushing the wheel once attracted (keeping the kinetic force of the wheel in motion). This is in attraction mode since it is the most natural way to guide the energy potential with less energy. Think of it as man-made canals from a main river guiding the water by natural gravity rather than pumping it from the river to the pipe.

                      If the transistors are all properly tuned they will all carry the same amount of energy and push it to the battery. (think of it as 7 buckets of water filled by the high output all at the same time and all filled with the same amount of water.) This creates the maximum amount of radiant energy pushed into the charging battery per pulse.

                      This is all scalable:
                      Bigger wheel and bigger coil = more water and bigger input
                      More water = high wattage on the master resistor, higher watt resistors on the base
                      More circuits = more high outputs to channel to the charging batteries
                      Higher voltage spikes = higher rated transistors, diodes and base resistor ohms to manage the flows

                      As long as you balance it properly and tune it, build it however it suits your needs.

                      However, the above is just my opinion and I will guess it could get you about .80 COP, then you add your load and the cap dump and the wonder of the added electret effect, which all combined should take the COP over 1. Using the same batteries on each side should prove that.

                      If not for the discrepancy (contradiction) of what John K stated in comparison to the book, it would not have become clearer to me, as I was too busy copying it, to see it.

                      Still more to learn, but I think I’m seeing it now.

                      Thank you.

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                      • #12
                        &#188 is supposed to read .25 watt

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                        • #13
                          James, are you referring to the superpole 10 coiler? That was a different machine that used AWG#18 for the trigger. My bike wheel superpole uses AWG#23 for the trigger and I use 470ohm base resistors on it.

                          John K.

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                          • #14
                            Yes John I was. And thanks for your reply. It makes things much clearer.
                            James

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