problems with timeinglight,stroboskopeffect

[forelle]

Hi all
i am tuning my bikewheel with the help of an Led,but if i change the baseresistance with a Pot there is no change of the switching,wich means the marks are allways at the same place.It should switch in between two magnets but it switches allways when the magnet is alignet with the coilcore.I have changed the coildistance from 2 up to 10mm in 1mm steps,no change.I have hooked up the Led with 300 ohm resistor on Anode to Collector and Cathode to Emitter.
My wheel has 46cm diameter and 17 scalar north magnets,the coil is 18awg 8filliar with 7 MJL.The batteries are 22ah for Lawnmover with Calciumtechnology.Baseresistors are 470 Ohm and the preresistor is 5.6 ohm than it draws about 1 Amp.
Then i have changed to 300 ohm and took a Pot but there is no change of the switching angle.
Does somebody know what i made wrong.I have capacitor discharge with SCR, Zenerdiode and 60000uf and it dumps from 25v to15v every 1.5 sec.
Here are videos where they explain how to adjust.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PW_W...M2AbwOBaXIqDbw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iyfxu6NbqNU
Thanks

[forelle]

Hi all
i am tuning my bikewheel with the help of an Led,but if i change the baseresistance with a Pot there is no change of the switching,wich means the marks are allways at the same place.It should switch in between two magnets but it switches allways when the magnet is alignet with the coilcore.I have changed the coildistance from 2 up to 10mm in 1mm steps,no change.I have hooked up the Led with 300 ohm resistor on Anode to Collector and Cathode to Emitter.
My wheel has 46cm diameter and 17 scalar north magnets,the coil is 18awg 8filliar with 7 MJL.The batteries are 22ah for Lawnmover with Calciumtechnology.Baseresistors are 470 Ohm and the preresistor is 5.6 ohm than it draws about 1 Amp.
Then i have changed to 300 ohm and took a Pot but there is no change of the switching angle.
Does somebody know what i made wrong.I have capacitor discharge with SCR, Zenerdiode and 60000uf and it dumps from 25v to15v every 1.5 sec.
Here are videos where they explain how to adjust.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PW_W...M2AbwOBaXIqDbw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iyfxu6NbqNU
Thanks

Hello to all
i guess everybody is still thinking about what i asked,because all who have an SSG have to know how the timing/switching between the magnets is reached,and that is only measurable with the strobolight i think.Please take me to the same level of understanding than the rest of you guys.
Thanks

[forelle]

Hi onesmore
I have watched the Video from the 6 coiler again and he changed the connection of the Led and he said first 'this is the charging and this is the other place'
the other place means running,or what else?If ichange the Connection then the Led dont light up so i think i have hooked it in the wrong place,but where shall i hook it.
He has made one red point between the magnets,for what is this mark?
Thanks

[John_Koorn]

forelle, if connected one way the LED will show the time the transistor is on, which is when the coil is energised (or charging). It will always switch on at the centre of the coil and will switch off after top dead centre. The time at which the transistor switches off is adjusted by the pot (base resistor).

If you connect the LED the other way it will show the coil de-energising (or discharging).

If your LED is not working both ways try another LED/ I had some that would only work one way - which is why I prefer the superbright blue LEDs. For some reason they seem to work best.

John K.

[forelle]

Thanks for the explaination from the Led.
You say it allways switches on the center of the coil and switches off after top dead center,thats what is "normal",but how do you make it that it switches in between 2 Magnets,like you explain in your video,because i thought when i change the baseresistance the switchingangle should also change so far that it is switched with the scalar south,or did i understand something wrong?
Thank you very much

[John_Koorn]

forelle,

changing the base resistance will determine when the transistor switches off. You should be able to see the angle that the transistor switches off with your timing LED.

John K.

[Martin B]

forelle,
"I have hooked up the Led with 300 ohm resistor on Anode to Collector and Cathode to Emitter."
The LED should be across the coil not across the transistor!
Martin B

[forelle]

forelle,
"I have hooked up the Led with 300 ohm resistor on Anode to Collector and Cathode to Emitter."
The LED should be across the coil not across the transistor!
Martin B

Thanks that was my mistake,now its clear.

[Yaro1776]

Can someone clarify with more specific detail the connection "across the coil". Where are the LED wires placed?

Yaro

[BobZilla]

I make my light with two LED's one red, one blue. Wire them in opposite polarity of each other so that one will catch the forward voltage and one the backward. i prefer the little square kind that are high power and use at least 300ohm resistance but this will depend on what led's you use.

Connect across the coil. What this means is at each end of the coil so your tops are connected where,, the primary POS,, the Bottoms are where,, to the transistor collector BEFORE the diode.

think of it this way, the coil has energy passing in two directions through it. The diode only lights up in one direction so you want to be connected "across" the coil to detect the voltage through the coil.

[Yaro1776]

Comprende

BobZ,

If I understand you correctly the the Primary (+) or "top" point at the coil juncture is one connection for the LED, with the second LED connection being the TeslaG board connection for the coil "bottom" or one of the single wire connections to the board.
Tomorrow I will visit my local Radio Shack for the LED and resistance suggested and give it a whirl. More later...

Thanks for the explanation and specs,
Yaro

[BobZilla]

Yes if you look at where your coil wires connect for the power windings you will find that all the tops trace back to the primary pos rail and you want one clip for your LEd there. The other clip for the led will go where the bottom of those wires are which is on your collector rail BEFORE the diode that goes to the charge pos.

On my board I have a terminal block with rings on my coil wires so you can see in the picture below I have one connected to the pri pos ( the lower one in the picture,, and the other is on the bottom side of a power winding.


I have the red and the blue so I can see both polarities and you can see the resistors on there.

To make this one i used some gator clip wires that had a broken clip so I cut that off and attached my Led's to those ends. Actually the white clip leads are connected to an extension I made with some small speaker wire but you get the idea.




*EDIT*

Adding a top view because I realize you cannot really see whats going on in the back on that last pic....

[Yaro1776]

Excellent clarification with the pics. This will flesh out the timing light procedure for myself and others.

Nice execution on your dual coil effort - I will continue to watch your thread on this.

Thanks for your effort!

Yaro

[BobZilla]

No problem.

You can also monitor your trigger wire in the same manor, one lead on "top" and one on "bottom" It will basically show you the same thing but some folks like to look at it that way. The difference would be you would be looking at when the transistor base receives,, the trigger signal,,, what I described is looking at the reaction of that which is the actual coil charging and discharging. you can use either way.

I prefer to monitor the actual power winding because that is where the spike lives, you can also get indications of certain things by noticing the brightness of the Led's at different tunings. Once you get a timing light on your system some things wil become more clear as you try to find your best tuning.

Don't leave it hooked up all the time though, it will steal from your charging. That's why i put gator clips on mine and hook up on that primary PoS post in the front. i do not want to chew up my power winding by putting it on and taking it off over and over. I leave the back one connected and just clip on the front one when needed.

[Yaro1776]

Hey BobZ,

Everything worked out fine with the LEDs. I picked up one clear and one blue bulb type - square one and red were unavailable. Attached a piece of reflective tape on the base of a spoke - that seemed to work the best since the wheel is shiny Al alloy. Observed the brightness change along with change from two spikes to one as tuning resistance changed.

Thanks again, this is very helpful to my tuning efforts,
Yaro