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just paralleled 2 10uf caps and it shot up to a resonant point of about 3.5 amps... im guessing this is on the right track?
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So I made enough time to try the experiment with a 1.5 uf and a 10 uf cap. I believe the coil didn't oscillate until I put a meter across the cap, then it went like crazy and heated the resistor as before. I tried this in gen mode and vanilla. I may have some component issues from overheating earlier. I will check them later as I will be away for a bit. So thanks Pat, reread this thread and watched the posted videos again, very helpful. will get the radio out when I get back to it. AlComment
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Hi Al & Brodie,Originally posted by aln View Post
Thanks for doing this perhaps I left something out in the explanation. This is good do get it out in the thread. It will show my flaws and we can fix so others can follow.
Heated the resistor? what resistor.... there should be no resistor across the cap if you are doing this.
Are you guys both talking about the resistors just before the bases of each transistor?
you are both working on multi-filers right?
So when you say the resistor is heating up you mean "resistors" plural?
or are you talking about the resistor across the cap because the experiment calls for removing that one...
Brodie, if I'm reading correctly between the lines (having to read your mind and guess exactly what you are doing
I would say yes, you are getting there. Now that you are in the ball park you can add the resistances accordingly get to the same place Hz and pull back - you do not want the square wave, the square wave is wasting energy. It does charge nice though doesn't it :-)
KR - PatrickComment
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i was wanting to be able to run my 8 transistor at 4 amps if possible and not have heat on the resistor that is paralleled to the cap... i believe we are both talking about the same resistor....(base resistor and everything else cool) sure it runs cooler just when it hits square wave and before square wave..... but when i push it with lower resistance(something i want to be able to do if im on a big battery... 0.5amps per tranny shoulld be possible in my opinion) that resistor gets hot.... i tried 3 10uf caps paralleled and it was resonating just under 4 amps... i stopped bypassing the diode and added the 100 ohm resistor in parallel with the cap and it still heated up.... yes aln with the 10uf cap for it to start to resonate i had to put fingers on both sides of the cap just to add some resistance so it would start to oscilate.... so pat is it possible to hit square wave then push it past(continue to lower resistance) so the square wave starts widening for insane charging without that resistor getting hot?Comment
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I get it, you WANT to drive it hard...Originally posted by Brodie Gwilliam View Post
yes, that resistor is going to get hot.
I have used a light bulb in combination with that Cap resistor in the past or just the bulb, I wonder if that might help??????? try 12v bulbs to start - The ones I used a found in the auto section at the dollar store...
If you're interest is in charging the larger batteries and not so much in efficiency, you might think about using a 555 timer or an arduino for absolute control to drive the transistors.
Hope this helps - PatrickComment
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Brodie, vtech {Blackchisel} has a youtube by the name of '6 filer solid state' that will do that. He is putting 4 amps through it, but he also has the trannies on a hell of a heat sink. impressive build. dennis sorry I could not get the link to post.Comment
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Not talking about the same resistor. I am not home to do experiments this week but found a computerOriginally posted by min2oly View Post I was referring to the resistor in series not in parallel with the cap. I don't know how to be more clear, sorry. I was just using one power wind so not "resistors" I did the experiment as you showed in video. I do not have a scope. It may be time for some pics or a video when I get home. Thanks for assistance. Aln
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i have 1 coil with 100 ohms and 1 with 47 ohms for base resistance.... they dont seem to get warm on mine , but i also have 3 watt resistors.... this coil have a regular trigger winding? you running it on 12v??Comment
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I get it now...Originally posted by aln View PostNot talking about the same resistor. I am not home to do experiments this week but found a computer I was referring to the resistor in series not in parallel with the cap. I don't know how to be more clear, sorry. I was just using one power wind so not "resistors" I did the experiment as you showed in video. I do not have a scope. It may be time for some pics or a video when I get home. Thanks for assistance. Aln
since you have only one wire/one transistor try removing that resistor all together.
No scope is your enemy. this is not an easy one to tune w/o it because you need to find your freq then use the resistance and diode to retune w/in that freq.
although..... with one wire, try just the cap. No diode no resistors no pot.
KR - PatrickComment
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This subject probably deserves another thread but I'll post it here since I am able to prove best using my CPD mod.
In short... I'm sending the spikes to a cap that is parallel to a coil and getting it to perform work where as if I do not use the cap, the same spike to the coil will not perform any work. This is just more proof of what John Bedini has been talking about using a Cap to convert the radiant energy.
Kind Regards,
Patrick A.Comment
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Nice video Patrick, thanks for sharing.
Question about what you are showing if you don't mind. So the cap in the last bit of the video (not the CPD but the output) is simply inline to feed the coil? What I mean is there is not cap dump trigger like build the cap and release but rather just the spike is going directly into the cap and the coil is directly connected as the output?
To put it another way the cap has no switching other than when the spike gets pumped into it it converts and releases into the back coil and makes the magnet jump?
ThanksComment
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Hi everyone,
THE SPIKE PUTS OUT 100 x MORE WORK THAN THE PRIMARY CURRENT PULSE.
I tried to make it as clear as possible in my vid sorry if it was not. Here are the bullets…
1. Simple solid state SSG is putting that battery across the primary coil.
2. Because of the CPD mod it is doing this at the rate of once per second
3. The switching is so fast that there is minimal ON time almost ZERO current
4. In fact, this has been running for over 48 hours and the battery is at the same 4 volts.
5. So you see that the “primary coil” that is being pulsed is being pulsed with such a small amount of current, that it cannot even move the magnet.
6. You can see I am sending the pulse through a rectifying diode then directly to light LED’s
7. The LEDs are across the second coil (in parallel)
8. The second coil is connected EXACTLY as a charging battery would be
9. When I remove the LEDs, the spike is going 100% into to the coil – magnet has no movement
10. When I add the CAP across the coil – BAM! The magnet moves
11. So the spikes are putting out over 100 times more work (arguably more since the “primary” magnet is not budging) on the magnet than the primary "current" pulsed coil is able to do
Bob, in short yes.
KR PatrickComment
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Hi Patrick
That is very interesting...the connections are a little hard to visualize, though. Would you be willing to post a schematic, please? Thank you in advance...Best Regards ~ James, Somewhere In IdahoComment
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Hi James,Originally posted by jamesgray3rd View Post
thanks for checking in...
Here's the schematic
In the vid i'm only using one transistor and one power winding on the primary coil.
Now replace the charge battery with a coil and a cap in parallel. That's it, even simpler than it sounds.
The CPD mod is not necessary, it just happens to be extremely efficient. Now, we can spin a rotor in this arrangement faster with the spike than It will spin with the "primary current coil" enough said right?
KR - PatrickComment
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