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  • Capcitor Selection

    I am running into some issues finding the best capacitor solution.


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/4PCS-63V-150...item2a021f7636

    OR

    http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...0035-ND/258701 at $14 each an 24 mOhm

    OR

    http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...110-ND/2295340 at $11.22 each and unknown ESR

    What would you buy?

  • #2
    i would go with the cheap ones from china to be honest, 4 for the price of 1? its a no brainer
    i cant imagine it would make a huge difference in performance, if this is the difference between over unity and not then you need a better producer.
    BMW

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    • #3
      Hi Benjamin,

      Buy more than four and get them cheaper too: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...10pcs&_sacat=0

      Buy more and gang them up as needed. 50V is plenty if you are using the Op-Amp Cap Dump so you can protect them. 63V is really not much better. 100V Cap's we all prefer become too expensive in larger sizes.

      You can stack these 10,000uF 50V's to make a 5,000uF 100V. Better if you put them in a parallel gang box that you will most certainly utilize for the rest of your life. Mine is tape covered inside and out with modeling ply top also coated around with tape. I pitty the poor foo who does not make a gang box of film Cap's like these to charge any battery so fast you will soil yourself. Don't forget your Watt meter right away so you won't need to change twice.

      Click image for larger version

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      • #4
        Nice box volty, not sure he is up to the same thing as you here however!

        oooh be careful with those RubyCon capacitors, could be fakes!

        seen alot of these bulged in my time.
        Last edited by bigmotherwhale; 09-06-2014, 06:02 AM.

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        • #5
          Volty - How come those capcitors values are pretty low? Are you using another application? I am intending to build the 555 timer and MOSFET controlled capcatiro dump system outlined in the intermediate manual. How does yours work?

          BTW, I went with the 4 63V 15000uF caps from China.

          Comment


          • #6
            Thats what i would have gone with, i would go with the comparator based cap dump circuit, instead of the 555, much more versatile and a perfect charging system, slightly more complicated i know. i still need to build one.

            voltys cap box is for phase correction in rotoverter or similar reactive power systems.

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            • #7
              Juicy links from Volty & Cap Gang Box for Cap Dumping

              Originally posted by Benjamin View Post
              Volty - How come those capcitors values are pretty low? Are you using another application? I am intending to build the 555 timer and MOSFET controlled capcatiro dump system outlined in the intermediate manual. How does yours work?

              BTW, I went with the 4 63V 15000uF caps from China.
              Ha! I bought those same exact Cap's, eBay black Rubicons China fakes, for about $7.50US each. For my 741 Op-Amp Cap Dump for the SG. However, I do not move Charge Battery Black Lead from Red Source battery In to Black Source battery In, unless Charging Battery is 2x the Source Battery Volts, else just drains in from Source Battery killing it fast, even while pulsing... I do not do that the way he shows here:
              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRLVhKzamUE The SG Energizer Cap Dump John Bedini & Chuck Hupp

              The Film Cap's you see in my Gang Box, can be Electrolytic for your application, so that you can vary the capacity of your Cap Dump to match a rythmic output from your SG. Hopefully resonance with the 1957 Nobel Prize Broken Symmetry peaks (from lead-acid stimuli hard HARD and FAST smacking) which only last 2 seconds max. John Bedini shows scope shots of these at IceHouse.net old-site, Scope shots taken across lead-acid battery plates and they are INCREASING oscillations, maybe the NMR of the system, which John calls "Negative Resistance". Based on Broken Symmetry. No Smacking Hard Slapping, no break in symmetry in context of the 2nd 'law' of thermodynamics.
              http://www.icehouse.net/john1/index11.html Scroll ~ 20 percent down to see the attached pic showing Negative Resistance Oscillations, which only come from "It is ALL about the Pulse".


              Click image for larger version

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              Making parrallel summed Dump Capacitor values to match the Amp needs of the Load you are charging. You are going to find as I did that 15,000uF is too big for smaller batteries, and 10,000 and 5,000 selectable with switches will serve you very well to stay in the sweet spot where the SG like to purr. Mine 9-Filar EnergeX.com 8x20 + 1x23AWG likes about 600 to 700 mA at 12V supply and 12V charge battery.
              http://teslagenx.com/parts/tx-coils.html?category=parts for Tom's Pre-Made Coils - A Sure Thing ;-)
              However, Cap Dumping needs Cap size tailored to the battery impedance and capacity you are charging. You will see what happens when your SG is maybe running on low Amps or not all your coils installed, that those 15,000uF Caps take too long to charge and worse, too long to fully discharge down to the Charge Battery Voltage. They start to leak some as they charge up, wasting dumps, and is why not to set Dump Threshold much more than 2X the Battery voltage. There is a sweet spot you will sense when it all hums well. You can hear with your ears when the Cap Dump is charging and discharging with an easy going rhythm and not sressed dummping too fast or too slowly! My 741 Op-Amp Cap Dump is still on crumby breadboard and it kicks butt!. I use various Cap Values on 741 input to make the dumping take longer or shorter time, and bought mouser 7x Rotory Switches for the Box I still need to make for this 741 Op-AmpCap Dump. Thank God for John Bedini!

              Anyway, the Capacitor Gang Box that I put some pics up of a few posts above here is this thread, I put links about over here:
              http://www.energyscienceforum.com/sh...ll=1#post16941 in Experimental Motor/Generator Build thread. Links so juicy, i pitty the poor foo who do not go look and see.

              Capacitive Battery Charger is what my Gang Box really is, and works from 110VAC wall plug to Capacitor (cheap 250V Film Caps about 40 cents each), to a FWBRectifier to the battery. Hob Nilre, a sharing gentleman and scholar, as is Luc Choquette shows how to do this here, with formula for Cap size needed to limit current for and Ah capacity you are charging, no matter what voltage, since small relative to rectified pulsing Volts. The Cap limits the current by shifting Amps Sine wave away from Volts Sine wave by up to 90 degrees. At 90 degrees, it goes to 0 Watts consumption, and still charges.
              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BA6AQ7AGq88 Luc Reactive Capacitor to Battery, no MOT (see all his Luc Reactive vid's - Google Luc Reactive!!!)
              *Hob says there that he found out that this is George Wiseman's Capacitive charger.

              I cannot stand not re-posting this excerpt from the motor-generator build thread i just listed above. Luc is blessed by God, and he shared his reactive power research for free for his 52nd birthday. He lays it down as plain and as easy as anyone here may need. My EE study never taught me this, just a bunch of circuit analysis and Calculus. Take time to bookmark these. Make yourself a draft e-mail and start collecting useful links for sanity when searching for them. Send it to yourself, and change the Subject and keep as Draft too.
              In this excerpt, I am asking how their motor-generator will be made. Their groups has never seen anyone here been able to go "All-the-way". Off-grid i mean to say, with what is shared here. They say, not me, for I am just a newb begging for kind hearted friends here, who will teach me the best known methods, so I can go "All the way". Meaning for me, both batteries charge as JB shows his 10-Coiler doing live on past energy conference videos. He says there about his 10-Coiler, "The problem is, everyone wants to change it". - - - My question is, without buying more and more pdf's, how is he switching his devices in the 10-Coiler, and may I please see schematic in private?

              BEGIN EXCERPT

              Will it be used to form a high-voltage generator of ~ 600V or so, suitable for reactive power harvesting? Here is why so many volts pay off. Just watch these and see 110VAC providing only ~ 25 Watts FREE and how 220VAC provides 90 Watts FREE
              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Hr2C1vvvx4 Reactive Generator Tutorial Demo 1 At 27 minutes he shows the steam coming off a soaking wet cloth on the resistor burning with FREE reactive power from his motor-generator, and YES his motor-generator speeds up under the reactive load which is feeding energy back into the Rotor.

              and

              Here at 0:7:56 Luc says "Well here it is, the motor is running itself on reactive power". Needs grid kick-start if using only 110VAC when capacitor or MOT in series with motor.
              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6SaAjQaLkM Reactive Generator Tutorial Demo 2 by Luc gotoluc Choquette Here in this video (not to miss critical Part 1 before this)

              END EXCERPT - From Volty's Juicy OU Links post here: http://www.energyscienceforum.com/sh...ll=1#post16941

              May God Almighty, Jesus Christ in the flesh, bless you and yours with every happiness and contentment Benjamin! :-)

              Your friend Ward, who loves the Lord!
              Last edited by Volty; 09-07-2014, 02:07 AM. Reason: typos

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              • #8
                Thanks for the links Ward.

                In looking at the diagram on p47 of int manual, does anyone know what kind of diode to use to prevent the caps from reverse discharging? Thanks.

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