BobZilla's Custom Build

[BobZilla]

Greetings,
So I have not played with this machine is awhile because the smaller one in my last post was built and has it's own thread in the other section.

I have put this one (8 coiler) back on my bench so that I can work on the smaller one awhile. I had forgotten how much fun this one is ;-)

This chart and the video is showing a spin up with a cap dumper attached. The charge battery was already finished so this is only bringing it back up to peak. The cap dump is set to half a second loop with 66kuf. This is not a full run, it's just a look at how the machine settles in on a charge.




Video:
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...nt=video%2cmp4

[BobZilla]

Another set of plans. I think this might be what I go with.

The frame is about 1ft tall, 2 inch coils, 5 inch rotor.

[BobZilla]

Bob,

plastic please, aluminum can get eddy currents in it, if the aluminum is not spinning it will affect your build. let mew know about the coils, if you have a design I can print it for you, and can make the bobbins any size you want.

Tom C

Thanks for the advice Tom. I am really on the fence about the material, it did cross my mind that the aluminum would cause problems. The other big machine I build is starting to show slight warpage on the frame now which is why I thought I should use tougher material. That thing has the weight of 8 coils on it plus the circuits and flywheel. It still runs good at this point but the warp concerns me. I may have to make it back into a 4 coiler to reduce the weight.

I designed some simple coil holders which I was thinking about aluminum as the material because the plastic cannot be used unless I make it really thick, that is according to the software I use.

The intent with this machine is very far from the normal mono pole. I am trying to make a transistor less model that will use clap contacts for switching mounted on the wheel. That is what the cut-outs on the frame are for, too mount the clapper. If it does not work out I can always go traditional with it. I understand that true contact switching is MUCH better than transistors because of the little bit of capacitance held in the p junction, it makes for a fluffy off rather than immediate. If anyone has ever played with just shorting a coil on a battery you may know what I mean about that.

I do find it curious, however, that you are using 24 volts on the primary to charge only 12 volts on the output side. I understand that the machine likes to run on the higher voltage, but why not charge the two garden batteries in series instead of in parallel?

Hi Gary,
Always good to hear from you. Funny you ask because I did try that later on and blew some fets. Those caps are 50v so to get to a double voltage for the dump I was practically at full on the cap which I think unleashed a huge current, more than the fets could handle. Some of them locked the D&S closed so I lost switching.

When not using a dumper I often do 24 on both ends though.

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Bob,

Boy you guys are a tough crowd!

Nobody cared about the cap dumper video, nobody cares about a new build.

I guess I farted huh?

Sometimes I get so wrapped up in my own experiments that I fail to comment on what others are doing.

I did enjoy the video on your cap dump modification results. It looks to be working very well!

I do find it curious, however, that you are using 24 volts on the primary to charge only 12 volts on the output side. I understand that the machine likes to run on the higher voltage, but why not charge the two garden batteries in series instead of in parallel?

The new designs you posted also look good.
Regards

[Tom C]

I have been working on a new machine idea and finally got to where I think I might be satisfied.

So far these are just plans but I have the files to get it fabricated. It would be a medium sized machine with a 5 inch wheel and three inch coils.

Here is the frame, there would be threaded rod between them as supports through the holes in the arm ends.


The wheel:



And mock up of what it would look like:



I am thinking about having the whole thing in Aluminum but I could go plastic too.

Excited?

Bob,

plastic please, aluminum can get eddy currents in it, if the aluminum is not spinning it will affect your build. let mew know about the coils, if you have a design I can print it for you, and can make the bobbins any size you want.

Tom C

[BobZilla]

But mine don't stink ;-)


So here is a different mock up of some plans I have been drawing up. This should be much more stable than the first one I posted but I liked all the cool lines on the other one.

[John_Koorn]

Lol Bob! Sorry, life keeps getting in the way...

Everybody farts

John K.

[BobZilla]

Boy you guys are a tough crowd!

Nobody cared about the cap dumper video, nobody cares about a new build.

I guess I farted huh?

[BobZilla]

I have been working on a new machine idea and finally got to where I think I might be satisfied.

So far these are just plans but I have the files to get it fabricated. It would be a medium sized machine with a 5 inch wheel and three inch coils.

Here is the frame, there would be threaded rod between them as supports through the holes in the arm ends.


The wheel:



And mock up of what it would look like:



I am thinking about having the whole thing in Aluminum but I could go plastic too.

Excited?

[BobZilla]

I rebuilt my cap dump board and gave it a turn. This run is a cap dump on two garden batteries in parallel and two walmart deep cells in series on the front.

The garden batteries were not fully discharged to start with, I was basically testing the board and it did pretty well.





Video:
http://1drv.ms/1H5jcBD

[BobZilla]

I am posting another run here today. This one is done with the superpole wheel installed.

On the back I have 4 large batteries. Two 75AH and two wallmart deep cells all in parallel. On the front I have 2 100AH in series. This run did not make it all the way to full charge because the primaries ran low before the back made it all the way up however it was a pretty darn good charge for such a big back bank. I am sure if I had more on the front they would have pushed all the way up. This video is not to prove out a full charge but rather just to get a look at the machine running on a large bank with the superpole.

The video will show but I started out at about 3A draw which sagged to just over 2A by the end because of the voltage drop. It was tuned in the retarded timing. I say in the video but I think a better term for those settings would be BDC and ADC (Before dead center/After dead center) meaning when the trigger coil is aligned dead center with the magnet the slave magnet is either before or after the slave core.





Video:
http://1drv.ms/1HuqBxQ

[BobZilla]

Hi Patrick,
Thanks for that link. I will have to go read more of the thread it came from to get an understanding of the context but just seeing what Mr. Bedini said their is encouraging that there just may be something to this.

Gary,
Please feel free to take the conversation anywhere you want, my thread is your thread. I value your experience and knowledge very much and love talking shop with like minded people. It is very interesting what you are sharing about the movement of the off time on the induction trigger. With my LED timing light which has both directions (red/blue) I see the whole thing shift left or right with rpm changes BUT I do also see an increase in the width of the mark which I think indicates the actual time current is flowing. As I said already I think I need to fix up my marks and make things easier to see before I can be too sure about it.

On kind of a side note I am noticing some really cool charging capability with the "retarded" setting. I had one of the wall mart deep cells on the back and 24v on the front and I wanted to see just for the heck of it how low I could run the machine with my coil spacing being what it is. Initially I had it down to about 500ma draw and running decent. When the voltage dropped on the primary it stopped (lost to much RPM) so I did it again but set to about 1A instead. The thing runs really good even down this low. The RPM was about 500 which is a little slow on this machine but it did charge one of those walmart batteries all the way up to 15.5! I had crazy spikes per pass going on but hell it was charging great on very little input. I mean 1A sounds like a lot to someone playing with a single coil setup sure but this was 32 transistors firing and yea I did check with my light that they were all firing. Anyway I will probably make a video of this but it just blew me away.

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Bob and Patrick,

Since this thread is about Bob's custom build I'll try not to stray too far off topic. I did, however, make a few more observations worth sharing when I hooked the automotive timing light to my newer wheel. It has a 7 power, 1 trigger wound coil (from Teslagenx) running with the Teslagenx circuit board and fixed base resistance. I checked the timing of both the transistor turn on and turn off positions in both radiant mode and common ground mode.

When operating with a single pulse per magnet, the transistor turn on position in the rotation was always the same for both modes of operation regardless of charge battery voltage or RPM. The turn off point, however, varied greatly with speed of rotation turning off much later as speed increased. That position moved from the leading edge of the core to the center of the core as RPM went up. This must be part of the self-servo action that JB talks about.

It makes sense to me that the on time with an inductive trigger would remain about the same at any speed, which would manifest as more degrees of rotation of the wheel at higher RPM because of the IR time constant. This is what I was seeing on the timing light and is also part of the reason that base resistance can be increased (to a point) as RPM goes up. (Another part of the reason would be that the induced voltage would increase with RPM.) Only the turn off timing point is affected by RPM and apparently has a best actual position in relation to the core?

But with a position based trigger, i.e. hall effect or opto coupled, the transistor on time decreases with increasing RPM. It does not self servo like with an inductive trigger. And this principle would apply to the Bedini-Cole circuit as well as the SSG. The triggering method of a mechanical system will affect the overall operation. Both seem to work and I don't know if there is any best way. One is fixed timing and the other self servos.

[min2oly]

Excellent, now try it with the Bedini/Cole ctk
http://www.energeticforum.com/128221-post1031.html

[BobZilla]

Hi Gary,
From what your describing I think you have it exactly right about what that light shows you. I know on my setup the timing is a little hard to see properly, especially on video. In real life it is a bit easier to see whats going on but still not perfect. I may try putting some black tape all the way around the outer edge so that the mark will show up better, that aluminum is super shiny and it kind of distorts the view. Also on that wheel I only have one mark but on my super pole I marked each magnet. I think I need to go ahead and mark each magnet on this one too. I may do away with the double light and just put a single on there as well. The double is kind of cool because it shows both polaritys but it gets a bit muddled up.

I have thought about a single dedicated trigger with no power winds too. If I do it I was thinking of a much smaller spool that I could mount on something that can have a lot of swing adjustment. I think there are some good gains to be figured out playing more with this timing on a multi-coil. I could be all wrong about it too, who knows if Mr. Bedini put the trigger on the same spool for an exacting purpose or if it was a matter of simplicity to get people to start building and learning from a basic design. I suspect with a single dedicated trigger we can have far better control at various inputs and RPM's, no more double and triple firing from cross induction of the power coil to the trigger.

Anyway nice to hear from you and thanks for sharing your experience!