John K's Superpole Bike Wheel SSG

[Howard Wetsman]

John,
I replaced the fuse and still seem to have gotten a lot out of this battery. I've been calculating that it's 8.25 AH because it's listed as 165 CCA. I had to do the load test in two parts because the leads were knocked lose and the CBA stopped the load test when that happened. But the two load tests were for 1.152AH and 7.622AH for a total of 8.774AH. It is a conditioned battery. It's the one I did my more than 30 runs on with the bike wheel. I've got a curve that falls rapidly and then levels off for a gradual decline and then falls again precipitously at the end. I've never take the battery down to 10.5v before, but thought I'd give it a try after watching your video. I had stopped all my previous testing at 12.v. Can't print the curve but I'm trying to find a way to get it to this machine. In the meantime, am I deluding myself? Is this too good and still probably a problem with the CBA?
thanks,
h

[Howard Wetsman]

Here's the CBA report, I think:

[John_Koorn]

Howard, that looks like a perfectly normal discharge curve for a starter battery.

I use a program called Cute PDF to print my CBA reports to PDF. It's free to download.

John K.

[Georgey Nico]

John, would I need to dump the cap on the off time of the transistor yes? on page 46 of the FEB book the is a circuit that shows a cap dump circuit, so would it fair to say that instead of charging a battery bank with that cap dump circuit, i could just dump that energy to the run battery.

Cheers,

George N.

[John_Koorn]

George, yes you can do that. Also known as the Watson machine and the same one in the front of the FEG book. But you must dump the cap when the the primary is drawing absolutely no current at all. The timing is very tricky here.

John K.

[Georgey Nico]

John thanks for the heads up, I would imagine that the higher the frequency the more difficult it will get, if i remember correctly you had good results, what happened to that?

George N.

[John_Koorn]

John thanks for the heads up, I would imagine that the higher the frequency the more difficult it will get, if i remember correctly you had good results, what happened to that?

George N.

George, I was using relays that used a lot of power and the contacts burnt out pretty quickly. The timing would also wander as the RPM changed. Eventually the primary would run down but I did get a lot of extra run time out of it.

I'm working on other ideas still.

John K.

[pilahawaiian]

Aloha John

Can you let me know which 1N5408 to buy for the Super SSG. This is what i found, 821-1N5408G,
821-1N5408, 512-1N5408, 863-1N5408RLG, 863-1N5408G, 621-1N5408G-T, 621-1N5408, 621-1N5408-B. If you could be so kind as to mark one of these for me, I am learning but it is slow.

One more ??? I put a Super 4 coiler #18 with #20 trigger wire, with all base resistors 100. It runs but no wheat bulb light is on, do you know why this, a close guess will help. I tried 330 Ohm,470 Ohm, 1k, 2.2k and no light will come on.

[John_Koorn]

Aloha John

Can you let me know which 1N5408 to buy for the Super SSG. This is what i found, 821-1N5408G,
821-1N5408, 512-1N5408, 863-1N5408RLG, 863-1N5408G, 621-1N5408G-T, 621-1N5408, 621-1N5408-B. If you could be so kind as to mark one of these for me, I am learning but it is slow.

One more ??? I put a Super 4 coiler #18 with #20 trigger wire, with all base resistors 100. It runs but no wheat bulb light is on, do you know why this, a close guess will help. I tried 330 Ohm,470 Ohm, 1k, 2.2k and no light will come on.

pilahawaiian,

Any of those diodes will be fine. All the same just different manufacturer's part numbers.

As for your 4 coiler I don't know as each machine is different.

John K.

[Prinsloo]

@ JohnK have sent you a PM,

Thanks T

[pilahawaiian]

Aloha John K

Thanks thats helps a lot.
I had pictures ready to download on my PC and the mother board died.

How many volts should come out of the trigger wire to run the wheel? I think the base resistors is to reduce the voltage to what????? The wheel is 22.5" wheel with 36 Super north #8 magnet.

Thanks again for all your time and help.

[pilahawaiian]

Aloha John K

The resistors you used on the Base, are they 100 1/2 watts????

Thanks

Hi All,

Here is a modified bike wheel SSG I recently built. It is a 27" alloy rim on what seems to be reasonable bike wheel bearings, originally made in Belgium.
The magnets are 18 pairs of 50mm x 20mm x 12.5mm ceramic #8 in super-pole configuration that are bonded to the rim with Selleys Liquid Nail High Strength. The wheel was then balanced by placing small pieces of lead on the spokes until there was no more rocking. Even though it has a slight wobble in it, I get over 25 minutes free spin time.

The coil is 5 x AWG#18 all 125' all 1.2 ohms, wrapped on a 90mm x 85mm Pittsfield spool with 1.6mm R60 welding rods for a core.

The board is 4 x MJL21194, 100 ohms on each base, 50 ohm master resistor, 1N5408 - all matched.

Batteries are 12V 50Ah gels, used for a test run.

Machine likes to run at 0.5A draw current @ ~140RPM. Nothing gets warm at all.

I am currently doing the first load test, will post the results when they are done.

Thanks for watching the video.

John K.

[John_Koorn]

pilahawaiian, yes they are.

BTW, I ceased testing these junk gel-cell batteries that I converted to lead acid because they would not take a charge. I pulled apart a similar gel-cell that had also dried out and the positive plates just crumbled. So these batteries were beyond salvation. I have salvaged the negative plates to make some lead-alum crystal cells, but the rest can go to the dump.

John K.

[Howard Wetsman]

John,
I tried replicating this, though I could never do as good a job. Changed my 16 magnet rotor to 20 superpoles. It didn't charge very well, I think for the following reasons:
1. still using Rick's #23 coil because I don't have a source for 18# coils yet
2. Just did 2 norths together without measuring each magnet so that the superpoles would be straight. I bought a gauss meter but can't figure out how to use it. It just says zero when it's sitting still next to the magnet.
3. Probably didn't get as careful as I thought about spacing the magnets. I say this because watching the scope I see that the pulses don't seem to be at the same frequency. They are bouncing around a bit on the scope and I may even be seeing different voltage spikes at each one. Though as I think about it, it could be from #2 above rather than spacing because I thought I had been pretty careful.
I've wound another oscillator coil, this time without a core and will try the SS again, still the best charging I've ever had.
Any thoughts about above would be welcome.
Thanks,
h

[John_Koorn]

Howard, probably "D - All of the above", but mostly the coil is not doing you any favors. But don't give up after just one run. It depends a lot on the condition of your batteries and where they are sitting on the charge curve.

It's really important to get to know your batteries and how they react to certain things.

John K.