Hello Group,
I have constructed a new Solid State energizer and I thought I would share the details for those who are interested.
I have used a TeslagenX circuit board in this build which works VERY well with a little modification. HUGE thanks to Tom C and the guys over there. I highly recommend them!
First off let me just say that I am not responsible for any mishaps if someone tries to replicate what I have done. With that said I am providing as many details as possible so that if YOU choose too try I can get you in the ball park.
Before I get into the component specs let me explain a little about general operation. I engineered this to have four branch charging legs independent of each other. As you will see in the picture I have combined the outputs with a little bus bar into two sets. If I were to remove those bars than I would have four outputs but I choose to combine them for two sets of independent parallel outputs. It is designed to charge two batteries from one primary. I believe that if you want to combine outputs this is where you do it, at the output of the diode, not at the collector leg.
To run this in Solid State there are a few things that need to be changed. This is the cap diode mod which is attaching a capacitor across the pot and adding a diode. These are Patrick’s modifications to the circuit and he deserves recognition for them.
On the picture below you can see how this is done with this circuit board. Notice that the diode is pointing with the band UP which runs towards the base resistors. Also notice that the cap is attached to the pots legs BEFORE the diode output. It is tempting to put the cap on the top of the board because of the little solder points BUT this would be incorrect. If you were to do that than you are including the diode output and we do not want to do that, at least I didn’t. Feel free to try whatever you like but I am explaining what I have done.
You may notice that in this picture the cap is directly on the pot but the other one it is on the side. I changed it after the picture was taken. I found it too cumbersome to have it down there so I extended the pot leads over to some hookup’s where I can change the pot out more easily.
You will also need to move the bottom end of the trigger wire. Normally it is running to the emitter but we need to move it to the Primary Positive/ Charge Negative Bus.
Now here are some specific details about the components:
The coil is 5 strands of #18AWG 200ft, air core.
B-E diodes are IN4007 1000V IO 1A
Pot diode is also IN4007 1000V IO 1A
C diodes are IN5408 1000V IO 3A
Base resistors are 680 Ohm ½ watt
Intermediate resistor is effectively 500 ohm 1 watt (two 1k ½ watt in parallel)
Bulb is 12V 50ma
Neon’s are 65V
POT is 50k
The capacitor is 25V 3.3 uf
The charge and primary cables are 16 AWG braided. It is sold as “landscape wire” for exterior lighting applications.
All connections are soldered including the clips. Even if you have crimp on clips I recommend you solder them.
With this setup I can adjust the primary draw to be as low as 40ma and up too 1.25 amp. The idea being that smaller batteries do not like too much power but larger ones require more so I have the full swing to play with.
I intentionally limited it at 1.25 AMP to avoid burning anything out. You can play with your limit simply by changing out the intermediate resistor next to the switch. If you are pulling too much when your pot is fully open, change out the resistor with something higher until you find a limit you are comfortable with. Make sure you are using a fully charged primary to tune with and also leave a little wiggle room because as your primary goes down in voltage you are going to want to relax your pot a little so make sure you will still have enough to release when the primary is low. I also used two ½ watt resistors in parallel at this point to form a 1 watt.
Resistors divide the Ohm in parallel and double the wattage rating. Conversely resistors in series add ohms to the total. Think two lanes of traffic verses one lane.
The switches you see on the bottom of the system are for voltage monitoring. I can flip on the switch and get a reading from each, Primary, charge 1, and charge2.
If you add meters in like I have done make sure they are switchable. You do not want to keep them on while charging because they will steal power and run your efficiency down. Only use them to spot check how your voltages are and then turn them back off.
This is a new build so I cannot elaborate on how well it does yet. It will take time to make several runs on it and get a feel for the tuning. I can say that my initial testing is looking fantastic. Of course I may change values later on but this is what seems to be working great from my initial tuning.
I have tested with 3AH batteries on all and also with 120AH primary charging two 75 AH. As I mentioned with the small ones I need to keep the draw down. If I do not than I do notice heat building up on the transistors and we don’t want that. For the small batteries I am dialing in at about .25 A. The larger batteries seem to like it around .85 A. I can drive it harder but then I do see some heat creeping in so for now I am keeping at least under 1A.
BTW I do not have an o-scope so I am limited in my analysis. I basically look at my charge rates & primary loss to determine how well things are performing. I do have a the radio shack meter that creates charts though. The problem is when you are charging two batteries they flip flop back and fourth as they charge so looking at that meter is only half of the picture.
So that’s it for now. I will post back after I have some more runs under my belt and get more familiar with this system. ---Bob
I have constructed a new Solid State energizer and I thought I would share the details for those who are interested.
I have used a TeslagenX circuit board in this build which works VERY well with a little modification. HUGE thanks to Tom C and the guys over there. I highly recommend them!
First off let me just say that I am not responsible for any mishaps if someone tries to replicate what I have done. With that said I am providing as many details as possible so that if YOU choose too try I can get you in the ball park.
Before I get into the component specs let me explain a little about general operation. I engineered this to have four branch charging legs independent of each other. As you will see in the picture I have combined the outputs with a little bus bar into two sets. If I were to remove those bars than I would have four outputs but I choose to combine them for two sets of independent parallel outputs. It is designed to charge two batteries from one primary. I believe that if you want to combine outputs this is where you do it, at the output of the diode, not at the collector leg.
To run this in Solid State there are a few things that need to be changed. This is the cap diode mod which is attaching a capacitor across the pot and adding a diode. These are Patrick’s modifications to the circuit and he deserves recognition for them.
On the picture below you can see how this is done with this circuit board. Notice that the diode is pointing with the band UP which runs towards the base resistors. Also notice that the cap is attached to the pots legs BEFORE the diode output. It is tempting to put the cap on the top of the board because of the little solder points BUT this would be incorrect. If you were to do that than you are including the diode output and we do not want to do that, at least I didn’t. Feel free to try whatever you like but I am explaining what I have done.
You may notice that in this picture the cap is directly on the pot but the other one it is on the side. I changed it after the picture was taken. I found it too cumbersome to have it down there so I extended the pot leads over to some hookup’s where I can change the pot out more easily.
You will also need to move the bottom end of the trigger wire. Normally it is running to the emitter but we need to move it to the Primary Positive/ Charge Negative Bus.
Now here are some specific details about the components:
The coil is 5 strands of #18AWG 200ft, air core.
B-E diodes are IN4007 1000V IO 1A
Pot diode is also IN4007 1000V IO 1A
C diodes are IN5408 1000V IO 3A
Base resistors are 680 Ohm ½ watt
Intermediate resistor is effectively 500 ohm 1 watt (two 1k ½ watt in parallel)
Bulb is 12V 50ma
Neon’s are 65V
POT is 50k
The capacitor is 25V 3.3 uf
The charge and primary cables are 16 AWG braided. It is sold as “landscape wire” for exterior lighting applications.
All connections are soldered including the clips. Even if you have crimp on clips I recommend you solder them.
With this setup I can adjust the primary draw to be as low as 40ma and up too 1.25 amp. The idea being that smaller batteries do not like too much power but larger ones require more so I have the full swing to play with.
I intentionally limited it at 1.25 AMP to avoid burning anything out. You can play with your limit simply by changing out the intermediate resistor next to the switch. If you are pulling too much when your pot is fully open, change out the resistor with something higher until you find a limit you are comfortable with. Make sure you are using a fully charged primary to tune with and also leave a little wiggle room because as your primary goes down in voltage you are going to want to relax your pot a little so make sure you will still have enough to release when the primary is low. I also used two ½ watt resistors in parallel at this point to form a 1 watt.
Resistors divide the Ohm in parallel and double the wattage rating. Conversely resistors in series add ohms to the total. Think two lanes of traffic verses one lane.
The switches you see on the bottom of the system are for voltage monitoring. I can flip on the switch and get a reading from each, Primary, charge 1, and charge2.
If you add meters in like I have done make sure they are switchable. You do not want to keep them on while charging because they will steal power and run your efficiency down. Only use them to spot check how your voltages are and then turn them back off.
This is a new build so I cannot elaborate on how well it does yet. It will take time to make several runs on it and get a feel for the tuning. I can say that my initial testing is looking fantastic. Of course I may change values later on but this is what seems to be working great from my initial tuning.
I have tested with 3AH batteries on all and also with 120AH primary charging two 75 AH. As I mentioned with the small ones I need to keep the draw down. If I do not than I do notice heat building up on the transistors and we don’t want that. For the small batteries I am dialing in at about .25 A. The larger batteries seem to like it around .85 A. I can drive it harder but then I do see some heat creeping in so for now I am keeping at least under 1A.
BTW I do not have an o-scope so I am limited in my analysis. I basically look at my charge rates & primary loss to determine how well things are performing. I do have a the radio shack meter that creates charts though. The problem is when you are charging two batteries they flip flop back and fourth as they charge so looking at that meter is only half of the picture.
So that’s it for now. I will post back after I have some more runs under my belt and get more familiar with this system. ---Bob
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