Bedini SSG Multi-Coil

[min2oly]

@Patrick, first of all, thank you for your reply. I did enjoyed watching your videos, and this it's actually a replica of your work, but with only a single transistor, and with smaller wires.
About "ckt" - you mean capacity? I use a 10 uF/50 volt electrolitic tantalum capacitor. Schematic it's the same - I use a 2,2 Megaohm/2Wat pot, in series with one 100 ohm /2wat resistor and with a 12 volt/100 mAmp light bulb (to observe the current from the base of the transistor). Transistor is D209L (from a ancient computer power supply), but the oscillator worked also with a ST13007. Coil is twisted bifilar: 0,5mm trigger/0,7 mm power, ~27 m. length, with a R60 welding rod as a core (it worked also as a aircore, but frequency it's much higher... not sure if it's better or not). Unfortunately, I don't have an oscilloscope, so all the setup it's somehow... intuitive.
One of the problem was the diode, I was using a 1n4148 instead of 1N4007 (on BE junction of the transistor), and now, after replacing with the 1N4007 diode, it's working, also, with battery, not only with light bulb as load.
The dump charge, depending on frequency, is between 15-20 volts.
I'm not sure if the dump (charge) should be more frequent, and with lower voltage, or more rare, and with higher voltage.
Anyway, when discharging frequency it's rare, the mAmp draw it's quite low (2~10 mA), but battery charges forever. With higher frequency of the discharge, charging it's a lot faster, current draw it's also higher... but I'm not sure if it's a radiant or a conventional charge.
In your videos, it's seems like even for slower frequency discharging capacitor, voltage spikes looks to be quite strong - maybe 60-80 volts?
What it's your opinion on this?

I did miss this, getting use to the forum, people creating new threads for the same subject (not you) then I forget where I asked a question and sometimes never come back

I'm sure I am misunderstanding your question. My question was, what circuit (ckt) are you using for the "cap dump" to me a "cap dump" is when you use the energizer to charge a capacitor and then take the energy from that capacitor and dump it to a charge battery.
My intuition is telling me that is not what you are talking about.
Are you referring to the cap across the trigger pot as a dump to the transistor base?
your setup seems to be working quite like I would expect from the looks of it.
I notice your pot does not leave you much wiggle room when you get to the audible speed up and the high frequency tone.

try tuning to that point, remove power, measure the ohms on the pot and replace your pot with one that is slightly above that measurement with a higher watt rating.

Also, and maybe before you do that, and maybe you already have - using a larger size cap across the pot could have a stronger effect to your charge battery. Also, I would guess, and maybe others could chime in here, for that thickness of wire, I would increase the length by at least 3x. while you're at it, add another wire along side for 2 transistors and give JB's split the diode method a go.

here is an interesting fact about my setup, it does not charge my 4.5Ah batteries very well, but it charges the life into my 210Ah batteries. So play around with that thought a bit. Hope some of this helps.
kind regards,
Patrick

[min2oly]

I did miss this, getting use to the forum, people creating new threads for the same subject (not you) then I forget where I asked a question and sometimes never come back

I'm sure I am misunderstanding your question. My question was, what circuit (ckt) are you using for the "cap dump" to me a "cap dump" is when you use the energizer to charge a capacitor and then take the energy from that capacitor and dump it to a charge battery.
My intuition is telling me that is not what you are talking about.
Are you referring to the cap across the trigger pot as a dump to the transistor base?
your setup seems to be working quite like I would expect from the looks of it.
I notice your pot does not leave you much wiggle room when you get to the audible speed up and the high frequency tone.

try tuning to that point, remove power, measure the ohms on the pot and replace your pot with one that is slightly above that measurement with a higher watt rating.

Also, and maybe before you do that, and maybe you already have - using a larger size cap across the pot could have a stronger effect to your charge battery. Also, I would guess, and maybe others could chime in here, for that thickness of wire, I would increase the length by at least 3x. while you're at it, add another wire along side for 2 transistors and give JB's split the diode method a go.

here is an interesting fact about my setup, it does not charge my 4.5Ah batteries very well, but it charges the life into my 210Ah batteries. So play around with that thought a bit. Hope some of this helps.
kind regards,
Patrick

Just noticed you mention 2watt pot, 2watt should be fine.
also, what diode are you using from collector to charge battery?
in addition :-) I'm assuming all the basics, you are using good short fat cable from ckt to batteries and when you are doing the runs, you have no meters inline or attached to the system...
cheers,
Patrick

[axxelxavier]

My question was, what circuit (ckt) are you using for the "cap dump" to me a "cap dump" is when you use the energizer to charge a capacitor and then take the energy from that capacitor and dump it to a charge battery.My intuition is telling me that is not what you are talking about. Are you referring to the cap across the trigger pot as a dump to the transistor base?

Yes, this what I am talking about, the cap across the trigger resistor, which control the dumping through the base of the transistor.

I notice your pot does not leave you much wiggle room when you get to the audible speed up and the high frequency tone.

Yes. My pot it's already toasted, so I have to buy another one. I'll try with a smaller one, at least to test the scale of the oscillation with other values.

Also, and maybe before you do that, and maybe you already have - using a larger size cap across the pot could have a stronger effect to your charge battery.

I did tried, with a 200 uF capacitor, and the dumps was stronger, the current draw was bigger, and the frequency dumps was more rare. After some parallel tests, I did observe that the oscillator without capacitor mod, only with diode, it's charging more faster, comparative to high frequency and low voltage dumping, from lower value capacitors.

Also, I would guess, and maybe others could chime in here, for that thickness of wire, I would increase the length by at least 3x. while you're at it, add another wire along side for 2 transistors and give JB's split the diode method a go.

I did change the coil with a longer one (~750-800 turns, ~42-45m), a trifillar coil 0,5 mm magnet wire, one wire for the trigger and 2+3 (0,5+0,5 mm) as power coil. With reversed trigger, and only the diode (1n4007) to the base on the MJL21196 (no capacitor), I've got a 3,2 Amp/hour battery charged in ~10 hours (200 miliamp current draw from primary, ~120-130 miliamp charging current). The neon showing a very brightly purple light (I do have the sensation it will be burned any second). Comparatively with my previous transistor used here (D409L), it's a huge difference....
A few more words about this. Actually, this configurations, with a single good transistor - MJL21196, looks to be more powerful than my 3 x ST13007 transistor oscillator, thought I still have to test a lot on my new coil, 8 twisted wire (4x0,7mm+4x0,4mm coil), last night wounded. One thing it's for sure: after adding the diode to the trigger to base wire, the light of the protection neon bulbs are visible more intense, which also, from my observations, it's translated in to a better radiant output (?).
Regarding my previous post, about recognizing radiant energy - an easy way to test presence of radiant energy, I think, it's to connect a neon bulb to the output, if it's lighting, it's showing the high voltage spikes...

[axxelxavier]

Just noticed you mention 2watt pot, 2watt should be fine. also, what diode are you using from collector to charge battery?
in addition :-) I'm assuming all the basics, you are using good short fat cable from ckt to batteries and when you are doing the runs, you have no meters inline or attached to the system...
cheers,
Patrick

I don't know if I mention that, but my 1Mohm/2 wat pot it's toasted, so I will try with whatever I have around me.
About diode from collector, I'm using a normal 1N4007, which I think it should be enough either for the small current charge and for the ~90-200 Volt spikes.
And yeah, I'm using at least 2x20AWG wires in parallel, twisted, I think maybe 15 cm long (at 3XST13007 transistor oscillator, I'm using 3X20AWG wires); usually, all my meters are hooked up in the beginning to the power source, because I want to know the current draw, and after I'm convinced there are no fluctuations, I remove my analog ampermeter.
About power source, I'm using a 12volt/2amp stabilized LM350; I removed, thought, the protection diodes on the output, because of the voltage drop, so I'm using only a 220Volt/1amp fuse, which I hope it's enough to protect my circuitry from short-circuits.
Best regards,
Teodor

[stane]

Hi to all

Can Anybody tell me if there is any document on this bedinisite where is tolt how to restore the old battry???
I would like to restor few baterys that few months ago were good and now they are bad only 11,8 volts?

with regards stane

[John_Koorn]

Stane, you need to cycle them with the SG. Charge them up to at least 15.3v and then discharge them to 12.0v at the C20 rate.

John K.

[stane]

Hi John

ok I understand that but my baterys doesnt want to charge above 13,4 or 14,35(two batterys) and when I leave them for an hour they fall under 12 V in this chase what shoul I do??
and if the battry holds voltage above 12V when I apply C20 load to it voltage drops under 12 volt emidiatly so what should I do in this case??

Pleas help me I know it seems like spoon feding but I just dont know what to do more to get that voltage rised


with regards Stane

[Tom C]

Hi John

ok I understand that but my baterys doesnt want to charge above 13,4 or 14,35(two batterys) and when I leave them for an hour they fall under 12 V in this chase what shoul I do??
and if the battry holds voltage above 12V when I apply C20 load to it voltage drops under 12 volt emidiatly so what should I do in this case??

Pleas help me I know it seems like spoon feding but I just dont know what to do more to get that voltage rised


with regards Stane

your battery is shot, you can cycle it a bit more, but a fully charged 12 volt battery will rest at 12.6 to 12.8. get new batteries.

Tom C

[John_Koorn]

your battery is shot, you can cycle it a bit more, but a fully charged 12 volt battery will rest at 12.6 to 12.8. get new batteries.

Tom C

Absolutely agree with Tom C. If you don't have good batteries you'll be forever chasing your tail. See my thread on having to have good batteries.

John K.

[stane]

Thanks for advice tom and john but I am curius how do you define bad battery then??
are all batterys that holds voltage betwin 12,0 and 12,5 bad ?? becouse I have battry that hold 10,8V and after 6 months of charging and discharging batery holds 12,55 to 12,65 V the only problem that I have with it is that I cant charget 15,3 + volts it gets max 14,4 v?

With regards stane

[Dave Wing]

Hi Stane nice build,

I define a dead battery to be a battery that is deemed to be no good, after a reasonable amount of charge and discharge cycles. If you have been working on a battery for six months and it still has not come back to a reasonable condition, then it should be recycled, get yourself the $15.00 for lead and cut your losses.

In order to tell if a battery is useable you must do a resistive load test on it and record the time under load at the C-20 rate (or rate of your choosing) for a baseline. If you are not seeing somewhere between 80- 110% capacity, in this resistive test after five charge and discharge cycles, get new or different batteries... Don' t waste any more time on them.

If you are looking for high COP's from your machine then, John and Tom have given excellent advice, get new batteries... Locate yourself some Good deep cycle golf cart batteries that are brand new, with the closest manufacturing date to the purchasing date, this ensures they are fresh and have very limited sulfate build up upon the internal battery plates from sitting on the shelve too long, after having been filled with electrolyte. Or find some new batteries that are not yet filled with electrolyte, to eliminate the sulfate problem spoken about above...spend the dollars, then never look back. Check out this great link for more info... http://www.energyscienceforum.com/be...nce-using.html

If your batteries are not climbing up over 14.4 volts that is a good indication that the lead peroxide material on the positive plate has partially fallen of the plates and is resting at the bottom of the battery case, never to be used again. This fallen lead peroxide material can also cause shorting of the battery plates if it is alowed to make contact between a positive and negative plate, within a cell or multiple cells. This could be one of the reasons the battery you spoke of above, is constantly falling in voltage to low levels in a relatively short period of time after being freshly charged. The battery is most likely mechanically damaged beyond repair and no charger or SG will fix this type of problem and again you are just wasting your precious time.

Hope this helps...

Dave Wing

[stane]

Thanks Dave wing for explination

[Dwane Dibley]

stane,

scalar north is 2 north poles glued together, then that north to north is glued on edge, that is what provides the sharp switching.


that thing looks like you have multiple trigger coils, and they are not matched. is there just one master coil? things are definately no alright on that machine, turn off all the coils except the master, do a scope shot, then add coils one at a time.

Tom C

Hi there Tom C
I wonder if you could elaborate a little bit with your description of the scalar north magnets. For some reason I cannot visualise two north poles glued together and then glued on edge. Seems a physical impossibility to me. Perhaps you could be so kind as to rephrase your description. The Scalar North looks a good opportunity for experimenting.

Regards

Dwane

[Tom C]

sure thing, take 2 rectangular magnets, place super glue on both north faces, then stick them together north to north. the north is now compressed and "squirts out the sides of the magnets. its very narrow. when assembling the rotor, the magnets go "on edge" so that the seam of the magnet pair is glued to the rotor so it is perpindicular to the rotors circumfernce.

Tom C

[Prinsloo]

Hi Dwane

Take a look at Patrick's YouTube video where he shows the working of these magnets using a computer monitor, this will help you understand the concept quickly.

Maybe some can post a link to the vid ?

Theunis