Bedini SSG Multi-Coil

[Tom C]

Well thats good to know maybe some of them actually work. Atleast you got some great solder connections. LOL

My question is does a board like this produce enough base current to test out high powered devices or am I asking the wrong questions?

Hey Tom last night I rebuilt my 4 channel and used the bk530 this time to do beta's and found I was way off.

Transistor
#1=112
#2=127
#3=99
#4=105

I used 4 more this time that were around 108-109. I only had 15 devices to test and match up. Is this variance permissible?

Also I have been wondering if it is possible to tune the base resistance for a given output to cause charging to go up? Or how to match each channel with the next?

You don't have to answer that. Better yet has anyone you know used channel matching on a scope to increase efficiency and charging rate or does the circuit self regulate making further tuning unnecessary?

Just learning to work this old stuff after years of leaving them shelved.

The leads on my BK162 were causing a fluctuating readout when i first did the board(In about an hour)

good question,

if the beta is matched exactly or +/-5% then you are very close, your trannies are way off. another way to do this if you really want to take the time is find the transistor that opens the least, then use resistors on the base to match the rest to that one. what we are matching is how much current the junction passes for a given current on the base. so if you have a 100 and a 105 add resistance to give you 100. that is the hard way...... you can decide what you want to use for your base resistor, say 22 ohms, then change the resistance of the other 3 to get the same current flowing thru it.


so take the 99 and clamp the other ones down. I have NEVER done this, for me this is just theoretical but I have heard it talked about before.

Tom C

[Tom C]

Yes I understand

Atleast UBEEN Around long enough to hear that

I really like this explanation.

So I can add resistance to the bases and check beta on my tester until they match up better.

please let us know how this works for you, I had always thought of putting a little 10 turn pot on each base, but that gets expensive and they can wear out.

Tom C

Tom

[brodonh]

Hi All,
Thanks for being here.
Over the years I've built a lot of JB stuff.
My last big project was a super pole 8 coiler like all the rest of my multicoil machines it didn't charge batterys well.

Now I'm learning about matching components and have got a bike wheel running with matched components and a cap pulser that is working well.

I must do another multicoiler and I notice that with a 6in diameter 6 mag rotor the mag spacing is = to Pi.

Same with all even inch diameter rotors with same number of mags and inches in Diameter.

What is considered to be the best mag spacing for a multicoiler?

I checked with my cad program and saw that with "Pi"spacing and 1/8 inch gap between mag and coil, that the 3.5inch spool ends will be close but not too close. Is there any reason why I shouldn't do, for example a 9 inch rotor with nine coils. nine mags?

Weight can be an issue, I remember being hard pressed to move my 8 coiler by myself.

Maybe 2, 4.5 coilers?

Anybod have a sense of humor?

Thanks for your insight.

bro d

[knagtegl]

Hi all,

I have build a 4 coil machine and it runs OK it charges at the moment a 110 A/h Deep Cycle Carbon Fibre battery and does it in a reasonable time.
All the 4 coils and 3 transistors MJL21194 (don't have anymore yet) are staying very cool at 1 amp input at the sweetspot while it is running at 1450 RPM and every coil switches at around 500 hz.
One thing is still getting a little warm and that is the potmeter in the base circuit, and since heath means loss I wonder if this is normal or can this
be avoided somehow. Maybe make the trigger winding shorter or thinner or thicker? or maybe not take a resistor but an impedance in the base?

Any thoughts on this?
finished 4 coiler running smoothly now - YouTube

Karel

[Dave Wing]

One thing is still getting a little warm and that is the potmeter in the base circuit, and since heath means loss I wonder if this is normal or can this
be avoided somehow.
Karel

Hi Karel,

Make another coil with an iron core and wind a length of wire on it, use that as a trigger wire. You can use a potentiometer in between the trigger and the base if your amp draw is out of the desired range of primary amp draw, of the system. Or build in taps into the coil that will allow different resistances to test. It may be best to wind a trigger coil with multiple strands that you can experiment with in a series or parallel arrangement.

The step above does two things different over the parallel trigger winding that's imbedded with the power windings... It removes the heat in the resistor or pot. This heat that you see in the combined trigger circuit is the product of the radiant spike entering the trigger winding through conduction. This forms heat and or takes away from your secondary battery charging as well.

And second the stand alone trigger allows the machine to be tuneable,to reach a higher rpm or faster acceleration from a low rpm to higher, when you simply move the coil to the right or left, depending upon the rotational direction of the rotor. With this configuration you control the trigger timing.

Hook up...
Put one end of the trigger coil to the base of the transitor and the other end to the emitter. You may have to switch the trigger wires around if the transitors have difficulty operating.

Hope this helps.


Dave Wing

[knagtegl]

Thanks Dave Wing,

I will definitely go and play with that extra coil this info absolutely helps.
I will add the original trigger to the rest of the wires in parallel that will help a little too.

Thanks for the advice,

Karel

[knagtegl]

Dave,

One more question comes to my mind, is it best to use the same dimensions for the trigger coil (same size of iron)?
Or can you make the pulse even shorter by making a smaller thinner core?
Or is it better to not use a core at all (less drag)?

Karel

[Dave Wing]

For the fastest switching time make the core as long as the superpole magnet and the width should be as narrow as possible. I have made a core from a corrugated plastic sign. The sign material when filled with welding rod was perfect for adding enough strength to the core so it would maintain it's strength and form while winding the wire upon it.
The corrugated material can be found anywhere... And it looks like this McLain Studios: Election Signs

With the typical material I was able to put three rods in each corrugation, so the actual core width is only two rods wide. Or you could try this... lay all the welding rod on a flat surface and solder, glue or epoxy them together so the core is one welding rod thick.

You need a sharp strong trigger action and that is what this will give.

Dave Wing

[knagtegl]

Great Tips,

Thanks Dave!

[knagtegl]

Did some experiments with an extra trigger coil made it with about 10 rods (big coils have min 100) and just one winding just to see what it does.
It does run but to get a good h form wave I need to put 3 amps in (normal 1) and charging is not very impressive and transistors get very hot.

You can see here that you need a drive coil on the trigger coil to kill the trigger signal very fast so there is no heat in the transistors and better charging.
Will do some experiments with that. In the mean time I put the extra coil in series with the original one and my rpm is going from 1440 to 1570 so that
doesn't hearth to much. Then I played with a small cap and put it parallel on the extra coil and the charging went up.

So there is still a hole lot of interesting stuff to learn here.

[stane]

Hi to all

Any idea how to conect 5KW Iverter 5000 TL from SMA to bedini motor??


with regards Stane

[Tom C]

you cannot hook it up directly, the pulses from the motor will kill it, you need batteries (which you have) to store the output of the monopole. inverters are made for brute force constant DC at a fixed voltage, not pulsed DC, which will be way above the voltage your inverter can handle. you will blow it up. I have seen some of the SMA inverters that are multi tap on the input, but nothing close to the spikes you are producing with your machine. its just not made for pulsed DC. monopole energizers are designed to charge batteries. charge those batteries with the mopnopole, then hook up to them with the inverter when not being charged. you cannot charge and discharge a battery at the same time. you need to set up some manual switching to take the inverter in and out of line with the batteries


Tom C

[stane]

Thanks TomC for warning do you mybe have any advice what can I use for manual swiching becouse I odered 4 more 225Ah batterys for my larger project

[Tom C]

Thanks TomC for warning do you mybe have any advice what can I use for manual swiching becouse I odered 4 more 225Ah batterys for my larger project [ATTACH=CONFIG]1964[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1965[/ATTACH]

the easiest switches to get are the marine type used on boats like this one m-Series Mini Dual Circuit Plus Battery Switch - Red - Blue Sea Systems they are very common and any marine hardware store at any marina will have them.

Tom C

[stane]

TomC one more question I need advice what is the best rpm ratio if I would like to drive litle generator (1400RPM 13,5-14.3 V )with my motor lets say 10 coiler??
In one of john bedinis video he mentions that you can drive water pump with it I would use litle 24V DC motor for generator instead of water pump.

With regards Stane