3PM Kit Magnets

[Branch Gordon]

Thanks all for your responses. I'm happy to hear that I don't have to scrap the whole setup.

John B...I'm not sure I understand part of what you wrote... "Filling the whole space with a ceramic rod magnet"...by "space" are you referring to the wheel? The inside of it is molded with sockets for the magnets and also 3 metal discs. To place anything different inside...I don't think a rod will fit in there properly.

What do you mean by a floating magnet? I have three magnets in my wheel...all are in sockets on the outer edge. None are floating per se.

[John_Bedini]

Help with Monopole

Branch,
This takes a little work to do but it is possible. I have discussed some time back adding a neo to a ceramic magnet. So it's like tipping the ceramic dime store magnet to form a number 8 ferrite magnet You have room in the wheel to do this mod. Floating is not my idea of a good rotor design. As everybody that has been here at the shop said, I did not build this machine nor did I ever say anything to Rick as I never had one to experiment with. The good news is I'm here to help you solve the problem and get it working as it was intended in the beginning.
The monopole never used neo magnets, this is a big error on Rick's part. So let me get a rotor where I can explain what to do and we will solve this problem together. I'm very busy here and must work things out between things so I may not answer right away, but I will. So let me get pictures of what I'm going to do to the rotor first, then we will work on the coils and circuit.

[John_Bedini]

Here is the orignal monoplole as reported to Keelynet.

[Woody]

John,

What do you think of the samarium cobalt magnets? They seem to be slightly stronger than the ceramics, but much weaker than the neos. Is the issue primarily magnetic field strength, or is the material the magnet is made of also important? The magnets I'm about to install in my 6 pole are samarium cobalt with a pull force of 2.9 lbs. and a gauss of 10,600. The only reason I'm trying them is because I couldn't find any ceramics that would fit the rotor pockets. The new redesigned 6 pole rotor that has the more secure side machined magnet pockets is a big improvement over the original floating magnet rotor. I think one could even get a rectangular magnet in that one so that a disk would not be the only option.

Thanks for all your help with these units!

-Woody

[Branch Gordon]

Right on John. I'm appreciative that you are taking time out to assist with this.

In the meantime, (just so I have something to do) I'm probably going to work on building the bike wheel energizer that is recommended by you and all the moderators. I thought I would save time and effort by buying a kit, but obviously that shortcut has failed, haha! However I know there are dozens of other people that have these 3PM kits, and potentially more still buying them...so the info will be helpful.

Branch,
This takes a little work to do but it is possible. I have discussed some time back adding a neo to a ceramic magnet. So it's like tipping the ceramic dime store magnet to form a number 8 ferrite magnet You have room in the wheel to do this mod. Floating is not my idea of a good rotor design. As everybody that has been here at the shop said, I did not build this machine nor did I ever say anything to Rick as I never had one to experiment with. The good news is I'm here to help you solve the problem and get it working as it was intended in the beginning.
The monopole never used neo magnets, this is a big error on Rick's part. So let me get a rotor where I can explain what to do and we will solve this problem together. I'm very busy here and must work things out between things so I may not answer right away, but I will. So let me get pictures of what I'm going to do to the rotor first, then we will work on the coils and circuit.

[John_Bedini]

Woody,
I have used Samarian Cobalt Magnets with far better results, as a matter of speaking I have been checking and it seems that the motors that Rick thought were Neos are Samarium cobalt in the small TUV test motor. The TUV test motor did very well in the testing for BTI systems. The three pole is Neo and it did not perform the same. I found the best picture of the motor that we used in the TUV test, I will take better pictures. The coil is marked 800 Turns #21 wire power coil and 23 trigger. Timing is set at 12 to 1 rotation of the big wheel three north facing magnets. The gap spacing is 3/16 to the pole piece

John B

[Robert Darrah]

Hi John,

Just to clarify, we're only talking about the monopoles here right? I'd thought the window motor kit was designed to work with neos. Have you heard, or has JB said anything to the contrary?

Great new forum, btw. Where else can you get a beam me up emoticon!

Robert

[Woody]

Thank you sir! I was just looking at the hand drawn images you had posted of that unit last night. Nice to see some pics and have some specifics on it!

I'm looking forward to seeing what kind of results I get with the SmCo magnets.

-Woody

[Branch Gordon]

Well the ceramic magnets I ordered came in the mail today, and I put them in the rotor just to see if they would work. I was able to fit 2 in each socket perfectly. As you guys thought was the case though...they are too weak...didn't work.

Woody, did you buy your magnets online? If so, do you have a link? Do you have the plastic molded rotor or the upgraded one?

[Woody]

Hi Branch. I have the newer. 6 magnet rotor. If you go back a page in this thread, I posted a link to where I got the SmCo magnets. The website is magnet4less.com.

-Woody

[Branch Gordon]

Thanks!

Thanks Woody!

Hi Branch. I have the newer. 6 magnet rotor. If you go back a page in this thread, I posted a link to where I got the SmCo magnets. The website is magnet4less.com.

-Woody

[John_Bedini]

Robert Darrah,
Funny my wife's last name is Darrah.
The window developed by Ron Cole and myself used either magnet. I'm just talking about the monopole energizer here. If you use neos in the Window Motor the spacing must be correct so that the currents generated in the copper wire are minimum. The simple experiment is, slide the neo magnet down an aluminum plate and watch the effect, then do the same thing with a copper pipe you will see what I mean. If you use ferrite # 8 you should get speeds up to 4000 RPM. The spacing then can be tight so the most power is developed. Window Motor Test
Bedini-Cole 1971 to 1984 built from lab notes - YouTube
John B

[John_Bedini]

Monopole Help

Branch,
OK, looking at that rotor you can file that space out adding more magnets or you could put the neo behind the ceramic magnet and it will work. I'm waiting as Tom is sending me one to work on so I can show you. However I have been informed that the kit that was never produced for some strange reason was never produced by Mr. R is going to be sent here for me to work on and Chuck and I are going to see that it works according to the lab model.
John B

[Robert Darrah]

Hi John,

Ok, thanks for clarifying. Mostly I was wondering if the window kits from r-charge had a problem because they use neos in them. It's good to see that that's not an issue.

I have a couple of questions on the bipolar circuit with partial motor kit I got from r-charge, the one at Bipolar Circuit with Partial Motor Kit.

It's the one you and Ron Cole built in 1984 that uses all north poles. The kit says capacitance may vary and doesn't come with a cap. I found a thread in the mp3 archives where Rick says a large cap is better for blasting sulfation off the battery and a smaller cap is better when the battery has clean plates. The circuit shows you used a 75,000uf cap and I'm wondering what the purpose was for using such a large cap, and what size do you suggest I use?

The info I found in the archives for the S1 switch said it's there to time the dumping of the cap. So I put a magnet on one of the spokes and a reed switch to dump the cap once each revolution. The magnet on the spoke is about 1/3 of the way between 2 of the magnets on the rim. That way I'll get a different timing for the dump depending on which way I spin the wheel.

I also read somebody got better results by disconnecting the rest of the circuit from the battery just as the cap dumped, so I put in a relay to do this also, just to see it if would improve efficiency.

The machine is about 98% done and almost ready to try out, but if you have any suggestions I'd love to hear them. I know you're super busy and everybody wants a piece of your time, and I just wanted to say how much we appreciate all that your doing.

thanks,

Robert

[John_Bedini]

Robert,
that kit has been changed by Rick and I have never seen that as a kit, See the blue writing that is not on the original lab notes.
Where he got the 75000 uf cap is good question. Ron Cole and I used a 470 Uf to 1500 Uf if we used it.Rick has seemed to have changed everything, so people are doing Ricks experiments and not what I have done in the past. Here is the original drawing. The Bi-Polar circuit does dis-connect from the battery, so you can pulse discharge back to the primary battery.

John B


Old Pages for the motors JOHN BEDINI'S COLLECTION OF FREE ENERGY MACHINES