Bedini wheel is not spinning :(

[Marine]

Hi Marine, red test lead on run battery positive and black test lead goes to top wire of coil. Something like "Primary+----<O>-----Coil" (where <O> represents your meter.) Again, remove the wire that goes to primary + and insert meter in series between the battery and the wire that goes to primary +.

John K.

Hi John. What do you mean by "top wire of coil" ? Which one would that be? Do you mean the start of the trigger/charge wire?
I put the red on the primary battery positive and the black on the start of the run wire and i got a reading of about 2 when set to 200m on the multi meter. Does that sound about right?
No matter what combination i tried on the charge battery, i couldn't get any reading .It kept going off the scale. I tried 200m and 20m on the multi meter and couldn't get anything.
And i didn't understand the last bit about removing the positive wire. Wouldn't that just turn it all off?
So confused

[Marine]

I balanced my wheel with hot glue. After half a minute it cools down and you can check if it was enough...

Ralf

Thanks for the tipRalf. I was more wondering on where to place the weight though. Does it just have to be on the opposite side to the heavy spot?

[Tom C]

Marine,

wanted to encourage you to run thru a few electronics online tutorials:
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials


just like on a car the weight goes opposite the heavy spot. the top of coil is where all the wires come off the coil and go to the charge battery positive. when something in a circuit goes in series it is placed in line with the circuit, in and out.

primary battery + to meter red lead into meter- black lead out of meter into Sg circuit where the primary battery positive would have been.

Tom C

[Marine]

Marine,

wanted to encourage you to run thru a few electronics online tutorials:
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/
https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials


just like on a car the weight goes opposite the heavy spot. the top of coil is where all the wires come off the coil and go to the charge battery positive. when something in a circuit goes in series it is placed in line with the circuit, in and out.

primary battery + to meter red lead into meter- black lead out of meter into Sg circuit where the primary battery positive would have been.

Tom C

I did that before and i was getting a reading. I just didn't know how to interpret it. It was saying 01.8 when set to 200m on the meter. I'm assuming that's the 200 milliamps setting and so it was only 1.8 amps?
The only way i can get a reading for the charge battery was to put the black lead on the charge battery negative and the red lead on the same place i did for the other one. But when i do it has a - sign on the meter and it reads -01.2

[BobZilla]

You need to move the hot wire over, you have a black (com) port, leave the black in there but there are two possibilities for your red wire. One is for voltage and resistance readings, the OTHER for amperage.

DON"T forget to put it back if you go to check voltage again or you will short the meter. Also put the dial on (10A)

SO re-cap...

To take a current reading:

On the multi meter put the red wire into the amperage port.
Put the dial on un-fused 10 A.
Connect the meter in series with the positive you already have hooked up, just put the lead of the meter on the battery pos and the other to whatever you have hooked to the pos to start with so that the meter is in between (series). What you are doing is sending the positive THROUGH the meter.

Again be careful not to hook it back up to the pos and neg of the battery until you move that lead back or you will short.

[Marine]

You need to move the hot wire over, you have a black (com) port, leave the black in there but there are two possibilities for your red wire. One is for voltage and resistance readings, the OTHER for amperage.

DON"T forget to put it back if you go to check voltage again or you will short the meter. Also put the dial on (10A)

SO re-cap...

To take a current reading:

On the multi meter put the red wire into the amperage port.
Put the dial on un-fused 10 A.
Connect the meter in series with the positive you already have hooked up, just put the lead of the meter on the battery pos and the other to whatever you have hooked to the pos to start with so that the meter is in between (series). What you are doing is sending the positive THROUGH the meter.

Again be careful not to hook it back up to the pos and neg of the battery until you move that lead back or you will short.

Hello Bob. When you say move the "hot wire" over, do you mean the cable already attached to the run battery positive? If so, i did that and on the 10A setting i got 0.05. Does that sound right?

[BobZilla]

I will try once more to explain.

On the meter you need to move the red wire from the voltage/resistance port to the current/amperage port. Notice the meter has 3 holes, two red and one black. Black is always black BUT depending on if you want to read current or voltage you move the wire into the correct port.

Once you have the lead in the correct port put the dial to 10A. This is selecting current max 10A.

Connect it between the battery and the machine on the positive.

If you have done all of this already and as you said you have a reading of .05 it means you are pulling 50ma of current. .5 would be 500ma (or 1/2 amp).

NOW YOU NEED TO UNDERSTAND THIS,,

As I said already be careful with the meter lead in the current port because internally it connects the black and the red together. If you set it down and forget that you have put it in amperage reading configuration and then go to clip the red to pos and black to neg on a battery you will get a nasty surprise ( it will short ).

I would encourage you to be really careful as it seems you do not know anything about electricity or circuits. You can hurt yourself. Do you know that if you get your machine running you will be playing with over 100 volts? these things need to be respected. Besides the machine you also have to understand batteries can be dangerous. Building a circuit like this yourself means that you do not have any safty features built in that you would have on a commercial charger.

Even if the machine is running properly and you are treating the batteries correctly do you realize you will be creating small amounts of hydrogen gas?

Anyway I wish you well but I encourage you to do your homework before just jumping into building high voltage devices.

[Marine]

Hi Bob.
You didn't need to explain it again I did as you said. I got how to use the meter. The main problem i was having was where to put the black lead on the machine that was all.
I have no idea what sort of amps a bifilar single coil machine would make so when i saw such a small number i had no idea if that was the correct reading or not. Does 1/2 an amp sound right then?
Thanks for taking the time to help though. Appreciate it.

[John_Koorn]

Hi Marine, to give you an idea a single transistor bifilar SSG will draw around 200mA (0.2A) when tuned correctly.

John K.

[Marine]

Hi Marine, to give you an idea a single transistor bifilar SSG will draw around 200mA (0.2A) when tuned correctly.

John K.

Thanks for that John. Any tips on tuning?
So far i have tried different gas between the coil and wheel but it seems to make zero difference. But my variable resistor seems to be dud so that might not be helping things. A new one is on order...

[Tom C]

or else you have the variable resistor wired wrong. please post some pictures. the wire goes to 1 outside leg and then the center leg.

Tom C

[Marine]

or else you have the variable resistor wired wrong. please post some pictures. the wire goes to 1 outside leg and then the center leg.

Tom C

Not the neatest wiring but hey ho it's my first one

[John54]

As I said I built the demo version of the sag with one transistor, a diode, a resistor, and a 12v 18ah battery. Looking at the size of the batter I'm not sure I believe this, since this battery came from a small ups unit. The battery is 7 in w. by 3 in depth by 6.5 tall. I called John Bedini's company about other things and the person I talked to said my magnets might be wrong since they are the C8 magnets for the full sized bicycle wheel unit. I'm actually using a roller skate wheel.

[Tom C]

take the wire off the left side of that potentiometer. you need one wire to the outside leg and one to the center. look up how a potentiometer works you will understand.

Tom C

[Marine]

take the wire off the left side of that potentiometer. you need one wire to the outside leg and one to the center. look up how a potentiometer works you will understand.

Tom C

Thanks Tom. Will do.
Did you mean the left as i am looking at it on the pic? Or the other left? lol
It's odd how Daftmans machine works fine with his pot wired the same as mine and his neon wired the wrong way. Very odd.