Bedini wheel is not spinning :(

[Marine]

i've done it. The pot is working now. Thanks again Tom!
It's now drawing 2.7 amps from the run battery. At the lower rpm it was drawing .5 amps.
The last thing i'm struggling with is how to read how many amps is going into the charging battery?

[BobZilla]

Marine,
Are you still using a 4.5AH battery? If so you are pulling way too much from it. The c20 rate on a battery that size is closer to about 200 -250 ma. You will kill that battery if you continue drawing it down so hard.

To answer your question about the Amps going into the charge battery, you could hook your meter the same way as you learned to do it for the primary but with this technology it is not important. You are charging with voltage when you do it correctly, not current. Still you could measure it out of curiosity, nothing wrong with that.

[Tom C]

As I said I built the demo version of the sag with one transistor, a diode, a resistor, and a 12v 18ah battery. Looking at the size of the batter I'm not sure I believe this, since this battery came from a small ups unit. The battery is 7 in w. by 3 in depth by 6.5 tall. I called John Bedini's company about other things and the person I talked to said my magnets might be wrong since they are the C8 magnets for the full sized bicycle wheel unit. I'm actually using a roller skate wheel.

You talked to me John, JB does not own teslagenx we just license the Circuits from him.

Tom C

[double_d]

i too have copied the 'daftman' diagram, when it didn't work, i found this thread and discovered my diagram was wrong as well. after getting everything corrected, it still doesn't run but it is trying.

i have a single transistor (tip3055), single trigger/single power, (23 and 20 awg), 500 turns (somewhere around 200 feet i think), coat hanger iron core, 5" diameter aluminum wheel w/ (6) 1 /78 x 7/8 x 3/8 ceramics standing tall ways which gives about 3 or 4 magnet widths in between them. it's not the smoothest bearing, but it spins around several times on a hand spin.

since it didn't run, i unhooked the charge battery and the neon comes on, so i presume it is wired correctly, and when i spin it it does seem to spin more revolutions than when it is not hooked up. the run battery voltage does drop and the charge battery voltage increases when i spin it. when i turn the 1k pot full one direction it does spin more than all the way in the other. if i spin it and turn the pot, i can see it slow it down.

i forgot to check if it turns better at 1100 ohm or 100 ohm, i can't remember which way is which on the pot. maybe my wheel is too heavy for the little coil? does it matter which end of the coil is facing the wheel? pretty sure my magnets are N out....what does it do if they are S out? my run battery is a lawn tractor battery....it is a bit on the dead side at 11.5v, so maybe it is part of the problem. i figured it wouldn't need much juice and that it would work for testing.

thanks for any advice!

[Allen R.]

Hi Double_d. Start with this guy. He is a trustworthy source of information. http://youtu.be/ZZyULKlN9bg . You can learn a lot from this video where a kit is built. It is no longer available to my knowledge but the video should help. How to Build a Bedini SG Energizer: http://youtu.be/7SiwHRrNISE . Hope these help. Remember, Teslagenx has pretty much anything you need for the ssg and it is the correct parts.

al

BTW : I am just an average user. I don't speak for this board or Teslagenx.

[double_d]

thanks for the links, i hadn't seen the 2nd one before, started watching it, looks like it should have some good stuff in there when i get a chance to finish it.

i probably have too many magnets. i have 6 on a ~15" circumference, which is about twice as close as 16 to 20 magnets on an ~81" circumference bicycle wheel. i should try w/ 3 or 4 and see what happens. my bearings also may not be 'loose' enough either.

[Allen R.]

Hi Double_d. Your welcome. Magnet spacing should be between 3 and five magnet widths. To many and you don't get the virtual south pole. To few will prevent the wheel from turning fast enough to reach "high gear". Clean out your bearing grease and oil them with a light oil. It makes them loud but free spin will be much better. Adjust the axel shaft nuts just snug. If you have the loose ball bearing type like mine this is critical for free spin time. You should have a free spin of at least eight minutes with the coil removed.

Those things will help. Get your information from correct sources. The builders guides are probably the best.

Good luck.

al

[double_d]

i worked on the bearing, for whatever reason, it just won't loosen up much. i reduced the magnet count to 3, and it actually wanted to go, but just a bit too much bearing friction. i added a 4th magnet just to see, about the same. spins at least 2x longer under power than free spin, so at least i think it works, just need a better wheel.

[Allen R.]

Hi Double_d. I went back and read your post again. Your magnets are turned wrong. The long side should be 90 degrees to the direction of wheel rotation. This may be your biggest problem. If you get it running with this change then ditch the coat hangar core and get some welding rod. Coat hangar steel will remain magnetized after a short time and give you trouble.

al

[Allen R.]

Hi Double_d . Watch the video with Peter Lindemann assembling the kit. Skip ahead to where he attaches the magnets. Make sure yours are oriented the same way. Wasn't sure I was clear with the magnet orientation.

al

[double_d]

the magnets are perpendicular to the wheel, i currently have a horizontal wheel instead of vertical like in the video. i guess i didn't make that clear when i described it. my bearing is still no where near as loose as 8 min free spin, so i'm sure that is the biggest issue. i'll look into a different core.

[Allen R.]

the magnets are perpendicular to the wheel, i currently have a horizontal wheel instead of vertical like in the video. i guess i didn't make that clear when i described it. my bearing is still no where near as loose as 8 min free spin, so i'm sure that is the biggest issue. i'll look into a different core.

Hi Double_d. Okay, my misunderstanding. You will have a hard time getting a really high free spin time with a smaller wheel. It should still run though. I am starting to think you are right about your bearings. Your bearings may the grease washed out and then lubricated with a light oil. It may be that your wheel bearings bind when running horizontally.

If you can post pictures or a video that may help.

al

[double_d]

no need, I GOT IT GOING! i had a revelation about the bearing from an issue i had a few years back on another project...remove the seals! i had already removed the grease and used some light oil, better but no luck. i removed both seals and it spun so much easier. i put the bottom one back in to hold some oil, still spun easy. put it on, light hand spin, it took off. i had forgotten that the seals cause a lot of drag.

thanks for the help, your idea of taking out the thick grease got me headed in the right direction.

[Allen R.]

Hi Double_d. Awesome! Time to charge some batteries. Have fun!

al