coil core size and wire setup

[wild weasel]

hello folks

just a question about my next setup

im making new coils with following specs
20 awg wire 3 strands litzed together per fillar
5 fillar coil twisted together 50 meters length

now first of all should the trigger wire be litzed as well or just single?

second what impact would changing the magnetic core size have?
i was thinking about going to 32mm or 50mm in core since i have a few spools of that size
would this improve the coil or make it worse?

thanks for anny help

[Tom C]

3/4 inch core is all you need, the core is induced by the magnet flip, to big of a core your magnet will not flip the core. litz the trigger with the rest you. need 130 feet of wire 50 meters is 160 feet, always use the coil designed by JB it works really well. when you can understand winding inductors, transformer action and induced current you can begin to design coils for a specific purpose

[wild weasel]

hello tom

as i understood from the plans i have from JB, he said 450 to 900 turns per coil i suppose 160 feet is not a big issue.
our other rig with bifillar coil has 900 turns and works fine

so the main issue was if i would use 3 wires litzed as well for the trigger or just use a single wire twisted in with the rest
if i get you correct then litz this one as well

kind regards

[Tom C]

weasel,

you can do whatever you want.

the coils specc-ed from the SG book and the coils we manufacture per John's instructions are 130 feet. this is Johns latest set of instructions. there is resistance and inductance that comes into play with the bobbin and core size used.

http://www.teslagenx.com/parts/tx-co...category=parts

if you have a 2 inch core you will make a huge spool at 900 turns. the number of wires also affects the number of turns as more wires litzed together makes it thicker.

the number of turns and the number of wires finds its best combination at 130 feet with a 3/4 inch diameter core size. the wire resistance for each transistor is better. more wire is higher resistance for each wire, this produces more heat in the transistor and you have to drive it harder which means more current.

and yes you use 1 wire for the trigger and litz it with the others.

[wild weasel]

hello tom

thanks this made the picture more understandable.

i was using some other info to get this litz theory here the quote

It has been said that the use of “Litz” wire can increase the output of this device by anything up to 300 percent . Litz wire is the technique of taking three or more strands of wire and twisting them together. This is done with the wires stretched out side by side, by taking a length of say, three feet, and rotating the mid point of the bundle of wires for several turns in one direction. This produces clockwise twists for half the length and counter-clockwise twists for the remainder of the length. Done over a long length of wire, the wires are twisted repeatedly clockwise - counter clockwise - clockwise - counter clockwise - ... along their whole length. The ends of the wires are then cleared of their insulation and soldered together to make a three-strand cable, and the cable is then used to wind the coils. This style of winding modifies the magnetic and electrical properties of the windings. It has been said that taking three long strands of wire and just twisting them together in one direction to make a long twisted three-strand cable is nearly as effective as using Litz wire

according to this i came to 15 wires on a 5 fillar coil witch indeed would make a thick coil.
but ok i will stick to the 130 feet you advice for starting this one up

the question about the core was just to know couse i have here a lot of empty spools with 2" diameter core. so i have to remake them.

thanks for the help so far

im now building the unit of ron pugh but with the large wheel.

just another question about the bike wheel.
i hear a lot about having a free running time of 2 minutes or above. is this with the magnets on or just the wheel? i have now 2 wheels witch run 2 minutes empty after just a push.
i hope these will do

kind regards

[Tom C]

never seen that quote or done that. our coils are spun the way JB makes his. we like to see spin times above 8 minutes on our rims, with magnets coil removed spun by hand.
John K has a wheel that rotates for 52 minutes before stopping.
Tom C

[BobZilla]

I never heard anyone recommend doing anything like this either. The thing to understand with that is if you join three wires into a parallel arrangement like that you will drastically change both the capacitance and resistance on the wire. There could be a benefit to doing this in certain situations but I think it would be far better to just choose your gauge accordingly in the design process and use single strands.

[wild weasel]

hello tom

just checking on the spin time of the wheel
so you say with magnets and coil removed or just coil removed and magnets still on the wheel?
big diffrence in spin times here

as for the quote i give you a link to the site
http://www.free-energy-info.com/Chapter6.pdf
page 6-4
maybe you have a different view on this
also there is the info on the design of ron pugh just a page further

kind regards

[Tom C]

there are lots of energiser variants out there, I had read the complete patrick kelly collection some time ago. I actually have it printed in two 3 inch 3 ring binders, its my go to for info on machines I have not yet experimented on, but did not remember that quote from the book.

magnets on the rim, coil removed from its place so it does not cause the rotor to drag as the magnet interacts with the coil core. The SG is electromechanical, so when dealing with the mechanical side of things think about friction, balance, magnet spacing, resonance, all those things in nature that help a mechanical device be more efficient.


in terms of the electrical side, remember to Beta match the transistors, and match the resistors as close as you can going to the base of ecah transistor. voltage drop across the diodes is not as important but I like to match them anyway, if I am trying real hard to make a hi performance circuit. after you have would your coil, use your meter to chaeck resistance and you can if you want trim the wire ends shorter to get them all the same. big wires to and from the circuit, point to point soldering, no alligator clips after testing, shortest wire possible to the batteries.

there are dozens of things you can do to the circuit to make it more efficient. but you can leave those for later.


Tom C

[wild weasel]

thanks tom
you have been a verry good help so far

just build a coil to JB spec and gonna build another one on the litz spec and compare the 2 with the same components
i keep you all posted on the findings