Bedini SG Machine 8 - Transistor Kit Help Needed to make it run

[James McDonald]

Hi All --

I have finally finished my Bedini SG Machine but upon giving the wheel a turn
it does not continue to run. I had a current meter hooked up on the Primary
battery but the digital reading was zero amps. The TeslaGenX board was tested
by a good friend using his SG Machine setup and coil in June and it worked fine
on his setup (275 RPM). I am not sure if the coil is putting out anything but it
does seem to create drag on the wheel. I have reversed my trigger wire with no
change in operation. I have lowered and raised the coil with no change in operation.
What I am not sure of is if I wired up the coil in the correct direction. Also I was
not sure how to test this prior to soldering on all the lugs. I will attach a picture
of the setup if that helps any. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

-- James

[BobZilla]

For the coil direction:

The coil "Top" would be the loose windings while the "bottom" would be the ends at the beginning of the coil which are wrapped over. In other words the top would be the end you could uncoil if you wanted too but the bottom just has a tail coming out which you could not unwind.

On the power winds you want the tops connected to the Pri pos/charge neg. The bottoms go to the transistor side.

Your trigger top goes to the resistor and such on the way to the transistor base while the bottom goes to the emitter.



Do you have the welding rods in your core, cannot tell from the picture.

Also it should not keep it from running but you do not want to use those little gator clips for your hookup. Use thicker wire like 12,14,16 awg,,thicker will be better.

Hope this helps...

[Tom C]

James a couple of things, your coil looks way too big, and it is loosely wound. how many feet are the wires and what gauge? I would only use as much wire as will fit on the spool, and make sure it is wound tight for mutual inductance. the core cannot induce enough into the winding if the wire is too long, there is too much resistance, and the outer windings too far away from the core. that is probably a lot more then 130 feet I suspect. or it may be 18 gauge which is hard to fit on that spool with 8 power windings.

Tom C

[James McDonald]

Hi Bob --

The coil does have the R60 welding rods as a coil kit was purchased from TeslaGenX. The gator
clips are just for quick disconnect during this testing stage. The gator clips are connected to number 4
wire. Can you explain what you mean by tops and bottoms? As the directions say the same thing but
its not clear to me. Inner and outer wires or the beginning or end of the wires might be more descriptive.

Thanks,

-- James

For the coil direction:

The coil "Top" would be the loose windings while the "bottom" would be the ends at the beginning of the coil which are wrapped over. In other words the top would be the end you could uncoil if you wanted too but the bottom just has a tail coming out which you could not unwind.

On the power winds you want the tops connected to the Pri pos/charge neg. The bottoms go to the transistor side.

Your trigger top goes to the resistor and such on the way to the transistor base while the bottom goes to the emitter.



Do you have the welding rods in your core, cannot tell from the picture.

Also it should not keep it from running but you do not want to use those little gator clips for your hookup. Use thicker wire like 12,14,16 awg,,thicker will be better.

Hope this helps...

[James McDonald]

Hi Tom --

The coil windings resistance is just 0.2 ohms less then your 130 foot coil you sell. By the way I may be buying one from you
as the winding this coil was a nightmare for me and I am not looking forward to making another one. Three people involved and a
big coil winding setup that took months to complete. The coil is 8 strands of 144 foot 16 gauge wire, 1 strand of 144 foot 18 gauge
wire, and 1 strand of 23 gauge wire. Slap me with a with a wet noodle for not following the directions to the letter. The coil did spin
the wheel some but at a very slow turning rate which may be just the strong magnetic field this coil is producing or the polarity is
backwards because looking at the input to the base of the transistors appears to be going negative which would turn off the transistor
instead of turning it on.

Is there anyway this coil could be modified a bit or should I just purchase yours just to get this SG running?


-- James

James a couple of things, your coil looks way too big, and it is loosely wound. how many feet are the wires and what gauge? I would only use as much wire as will fit on the spool, and make sure it is wound tight for mutual inductance. the core cannot induce enough into the winding if the wire is too long, there is too much resistance, and the outer windings too far away from the core. that is probably a lot more then 130 feet I suspect. or it may be 18 gauge which is hard to fit on that spool with 8 power windings.

Tom C

[BobZilla]

James if you read again what I wrote I did define for you exactly what the "top" and "bottom" are.

Looking closer at your picture it looks like you probably have the wires in the correct direction but double check it.

Replace those gator clips. I suspect that if it ran and then stopped you fried one of those. With 16 awg power windings, if you did not change the resistance from default you probably would have pulled 3 to 5 amps through that tiny lead and fried it.

Tom is right about the sloppy coil but it seems more to me of a wiring issue. I didn't want to give you too much of a hard time as a beginner. You did not state however that it was 16awg wire. If you can afford it just get a proper coil from Tom. You need to gain some experience with the circuit and the operation of the machine before changing gauges. Every part of teh circuit is affecting another part and that is why beginners are prescribed certain standards .



*EDIT*
One other thought,,, have you checked each wire in the coil for resistance/continuity? You may have snapped one when you litz'ed them. Make sure there are no breaks, especially in the trigger.

[Tom C]

well of course you should buy one from Teslagenx seriously, I would reduce the wire length to what fits on the bobbin, rewind it nice and tight, test for breaks, and use your smallest wire for the trigger winding. part of the problem with larger gauge wire is the number of turns allowed on the bobbin, this directly relates to induced current in the trigger winding, less turns less current.


Tom C

[James McDonald]

Hi Bob --

Are you sure about the coil windings hookup? If inner wires are suppose to be hooked to the transistors then I already have the coil
wired correctly. The outer wires are going to the batteries as you can see in the picture. The coil was tested for shorts and opens to
every other wire on the coil. The wire used was a 200 degrees Centigrade rated motor wire. The insulation on that wire was very hard to
scrape off. The coil only looks the way it does is because the wire used was very thick 16 gauge. There are two trigger wires on the coil
also. One being 18 gauge and the other being 23 gauge. When 80 foot of the litz wire were on the spool it was already full. I had to start
using electrical tap to hold the wire in place to get the other 64 foot wrapped around the spool. I am a beginner at the building of the
SG machine but have been watching the list since late 2006. I do have every DVD that the John Bedini crew has released and I have watched
them. Nothing has been fried because I had two current meters hooked up to the input and output and both meters read zero amps from the
get go. However 12.5 volts is present on the transistors.

Please confirm the correct hook-up of the coil? I am about to rewire it to be the opposite of what you say by putting the power input to the
inner wires and the outer wires hooked directly to the transistors.


-- James

James if you read again what I wrote I did define for you exactly what the "top" and "bottom" are.

Looking closer at your picture it looks like you probably have the wires in the correct direction but double check it.

Replace those gator clips. I suspect that if it ran and then stopped you fried one of those. With 16 awg power windings, if you did not change the resistance from default you probably would have pulled 3 to 5 amps through that tiny lead and fried it.

Tom is right about the sloppy coil but it seems more to me of a wiring issue. I didn't want to give you too much of a hard time as a beginner. You did not state however that it was 16awg wire. If you can afford it just get a proper coil from Tom. You need to gain some experience with the circuit and the operation of the machine before changing gauges. Every part of teh circuit is affecting another part and that is why beginners are prescribed certain standards .



*EDIT*
One other thought,,, have you checked each wire in the coil for resistance/continuity? You may have snapped one when you litz'ed them. Make sure there are no breaks, especially in the trigger.

[Tom C]

its just like bob described in an earlier post. start of coil goes to individual transistors end of coil to primary battery pos/charge battery neg. it looks correct in your picture.

Tom C

[guyzzemf]

The insulation on that wire was very hard to
scrape off.

all you need to do is use a lighter and burn off the ends where you make connections
guy

http://www.powerwerx.com/wire-cable/...abwaAnRA8P8HAQ

[wild weasel]

all you need to do is use a lighter and burn off the ends where you make connections
guy

burning it off is good but i had a couple of times that this was not enough.
i usually burn it and then clean the wires with sanding paper fine grid
then solder them to have a good contact point.
the other end where they all are together i solder them together as well and make a good connection to a thick wire.

the main problem here i suppose could be a bad connection or the coil itself because its not wound nice.
i think this one is giving a verry odd field
make sure your wire is verry tight arround the coil and wound next to eachother and not crossing over.

what we do when we make a coil is keeping tension on the wire while winding it and never ever let go. at the end have someone standing by with ducttape.
cover the outside with the tape to keep it in place

regards
weasel

[James McDonald]

Hi Tom --

Thanks for your help. You should have an order from me already for the coil and a new holder.

-- James

well of course you should buy one from Teslagenx seriously, I would reduce the wire length to what fits on the bobbin, rewind it nice and tight, test for breaks, and use your smallest wire for the trigger winding. part of the problem with larger gauge wire is the number of turns allowed on the bobbin, this directly relates to induced current in the trigger winding, less turns less current.


Tom C

[Tom C]

thanks James, when its all said and done, if you want send me the old coil and I will rewind it for you, and test it on one of my machines, then send it back to you.

Tom C

[James McDonald]

Hi Tom --

I would like to have the coil working as I have $125.00 in material into the coil not to mention the 30 man hours
and the cost of making a coil winding rig. How much will it cost me other then the shipping both ways for you to do
this? This is not just a quick 1 hour time to look at and rewind you are talking about here.

Thanks again,

-- James

thanks James, when its all said and done, if you want send me the old coil and I will rewind it for you, and test it on one of my machines, then send it back to you.

Tom C

[BobZilla]

This is not just a quick 1 hour time to look at and rewind you are talking about here.

It is for him,,, coils cower in fear at the mere sight of Tom. ;-)