Pastor Gordon's First try at Bedini Energizer

[Faraday88]

Rumors of my demise were greatly exaggerated lol...
Its been a very hard 6 months health-wise, but Im back! Fixing to begin putting this thing together again. Ill update as I can...

Welcome Gordon!!! I liked your Signature statement below
Rgds,
Faraday88.

[Pastor Gordon]

Rumors of my demise were greatly exaggerated lol...
Its been a very hard 6 months health-wise, but Im back! Fixing to begin putting this thing together again. Ill update as I can...

[Pastor Gordon]

I ended up taking mine to a local bicycle shop and explained what I was doing. They trued the wheel there while I waited. Took about 15 minutes.

I have removed the bearings and the races from my wheel, and placed a 1/2 inch bolt that runs through two side supports into some flange bearings. I didn't think that they could true it without being able to mount it on their truing vice. The bearings and races I removed are ruined, they couldn't be put back in. IF the new wheel is not true, my bike shop charges $15 to true a wheel. I just hope that I don't have to spend any more money on the wheel!!! I want it to be true out of the box lol.

I'm nearly done building this thing... And I'm trying to be as accurate as possible with it.

[Branch Gordon]

I ended up taking mine to a local bicycle shop and explained what I was doing. They trued the wheel there while I waited. Took about 15 minutes.

I finally broke down and ordered me a wheel. All the used wheels I've tried weren't true, and I couldn't get them to true... I certainly hope that this wheel is already trued and balanced out of the box... if not I'm going to be mad!

Here is the one I ordered...

I researched a little, and the Y303 Alex rim is supposed to be aluminum... THis one has steel spokes, but that should be ok right?

[Pastor Gordon]

I finally broke down and ordered me a wheel. All the used wheels I've tried weren't true, and I couldn't get them to true... I certainly hope that this wheel is already trued and balanced out of the box... if not I'm going to be mad!

Here is the one I ordered...

I researched a little, and the Y303 Alex rim is supposed to be aluminum... THis one has steel spokes, but that should be ok right?

[Pastor Gordon]

I use the Owon DS5032E and have been happy with it. I have only used it to see the SG waves...so I'm not familiar with most of it's other functionality.

http://www.amazon.com/OWON-SDS5032E-...ct_top?ie=UTF8

You can usually find some on Ebay.

Wow, that ones pricey!!! lol... I'm not ready for anything like that, but yeah... I LIKE IT!!!!
FOr the things Im doing, Im thinking Id like one of the digital ones that hook to my laptop... that way I can record readings, and take screenshots of them for posting HELP ME on the forum lol. But Id like to know what features I NEED to look for.

Also, a question for ANYONE... I'm fixing to attach 8 x MJL21194 transistors to an aluminum heatsink... Do I need to isolate each chip from the aluminum??? In other words, if I simply attach them all to it will they short each other out? Or is it safe to attach them without isolating them from the aluminum (with silicone sheets or something like that)?

[Branch Gordon]

I use the Owon DS5032E and have been happy with it. I have only used it to see the SG waves...so I'm not familiar with most of it's other functionality.

http://www.amazon.com/OWON-SDS5032E-...ct_top?ie=UTF8

You can usually find some on Ebay.

If I were to buy an Oscilloscope, what should I get??? 1,2,3 4 channel? MHZ range??? digital, analog?
I see all kinds for sale on ebay, but I don't know what to get, cause I've never used one... I'm just thinking ahead, not going to get it just yet, but looking to the future...

[Pastor Gordon]

If I were to buy an Oscilloscope, what should I get??? 1,2,3 4 channel? MHZ range??? digital, analog?
I see all kinds for sale on ebay, but I don't know what to get, cause I've never used one... I'm just thinking ahead, not going to get it just yet, but looking to the future...

[Branch Gordon]

Glad someone is getting some use out of my thread haha. Your build is coming along nicely.

Be careful with switching between the meters while running. Might be ok on smaller builds but you still run the risk of blowing some transistors that way. Better to stop the spin, and then switch over to check draw.

Well, it's been a few days since my last post... here's a small update...

I scrapped the 21" steel wheel... I have a neighbor friend who is disabled and I have been mowing his yard for a year now (for free of course). I was at his house talking with him the other day, and In his garage I saw a bike leaned up against the wall with a bunch of junk stacked all over it. I just so happened to have a magnet in my pocket So I checked, and the magnet did NOT stick to the rims on this bike!!! I asked him what he planned on doing with it, because although it was very old, it was still looked to be in very good condition... It had been stored for at least 10 years (ever since he became disabled). Guess what? He GAVE me the bike for FREE!!!!

After pushing it home (Both wheels were locked up due to not being used for so long) I measured and it had 26" wheels!!!

I am having to use the rear wheel of the bike, because the front wheel bearings had too many pits and "cracks" in them... I couldn't salvage the front bearings, and they are a different size than the rear. So I removed all the gears, took the hub apart, cleaned out the bearings and everything real good with carb cleaner and compressed air, then re-assembled (Without the gears) and oiled it up with white, lithium grease (spray can), then used compressed air to blow out any grease build up so that everything has a very thin layer of "white" on it. This wheel spins extremely well for having standard, old and used bearings...

All my magnet wire has come in, I now have 8 x MJL21194 transistors and am currently re-building a frame to fit my new wheel. I have 28 c8 magnets... all of them exactly the same, 1-7/8" x 7/8" x 3/8", and I have managed to purchase 50 x NE2 neon bulbs for only $15!!! They have resistors already soldered to them, but for the price I'll make it work lol! I have my R60 welding rods, and I have some spools that meet almost exactly what JB calls for in the book. I have plenty of resistors, and diodes in my box, and I'm excited to get this thing put together!!! (If I can ever get over this stupid bronchitis)

I have also ordered some 1N5408 diodes (1000v 3A). I'm thinking of using them instead of the 1N4007's (Coming from the #20 wires to the output). I'll still be using the 1N4001 diodes on the transistors themselves because I don't want to take a chance on burning out these transistors! They cost too much lol. I'm thinking that the higher amp diodes will allow more current to go to the charging battery (if that much is being created) with each pulse. I've got enough analogue panel meters to monitor the input AND the output voltage and amperage. I plan on using a SPDT (on/on) switches (on the input AND the output) just to check the amperage periodically, and the voltage continuously. From what I've heard, leaving the amp meter hooked up pulls power from the system. If this is NOT true please tell me so I can just wire all the meters up permanently. I think I am still going to install a 2.5mm power jack on the input side(separated through a diode of course), just for when I need a simple battery charger. That way I can just "plug it up" like I do my little box...

Speaking of my "little box" I have upgraded it some... I made a new coil using the R60 rods, and 5 wires, 150 feet long and "litzed" together (4 power and 1 trigger). The wires are a much smaller gauge than what Id like (#24 and #30), but its working great for what it is... Of course, this means I added more of the 2N3055 transistors I got from Radioshack... I'm still using the 12v power supply... But it charges up these 18650 batteries I use in my Vaporizer in about 30 minutes and they are starting to work better than they used too...

I guess that's all the updates I have for the moment... I've been reading up on Branch's build, and rummaging through the forums a lot lately...
If you have read through this whole thing, I THANK YOU!!! And ask for any comments, suggestions or questions from the community.

[Pastor Gordon]

October 4th Update...

Well, it's been a few days since my last post... here's a small update...

I scrapped the 21" steel wheel... I have a neighbor friend who is disabled and I have been mowing his yard for a year now (for free of course). I was at his house talking with him the other day, and In his garage I saw a bike leaned up against the wall with a bunch of junk stacked all over it. I just so happened to have a magnet in my pocket So I checked, and the magnet did NOT stick to the rims on this bike!!! I asked him what he planned on doing with it, because although it was very old, it was still looked to be in very good condition... It had been stored for at least 10 years (ever since he became disabled). Guess what? He GAVE me the bike for FREE!!!!

After pushing it home (Both wheels were locked up due to not being used for so long) I measured and it had 26" wheels!!!

I am having to use the rear wheel of the bike, because the front wheel bearings had too many pits and "cracks" in them... I couldn't salvage the front bearings, and they are a different size than the rear. So I removed all the gears, took the hub apart, cleaned out the bearings and everything real good with carb cleaner and compressed air, then re-assembled (Without the gears) and oiled it up with white, lithium grease (spray can), then used compressed air to blow out any grease build up so that everything has a very thin layer of "white" on it. This wheel spins extremely well for having standard, old and used bearings...

All my magnet wire has come in, I now have 8 x MJL21194 transistors and am currently re-building a frame to fit my new wheel. I have 28 c8 magnets... all of them exactly the same, 1-7/8" x 7/8" x 3/8", and I have managed to purchase 50 x NE2 neon bulbs for only $15!!! They have resistors already soldered to them, but for the price I'll make it work lol! I have my R60 welding rods, and I have some spools that meet almost exactly what JB calls for in the book. I have plenty of resistors, and diodes in my box, and I'm excited to get this thing put together!!! (If I can ever get over this stupid bronchitis)

I have also ordered some 1N5408 diodes (1000v 3A). I'm thinking of using them instead of the 1N4007's (Coming from the #20 wires to the output). I'll still be using the 1N4001 diodes on the transistors themselves because I don't want to take a chance on burning out these transistors! They cost too much lol. I'm thinking that the higher amp diodes will allow more current to go to the charging battery (if that much is being created) with each pulse. I've got enough analogue panel meters to monitor the input AND the output voltage and amperage. I plan on using a SPDT (on/on) switches (on the input AND the output) just to check the amperage periodically, and the voltage continuously. From what I've heard, leaving the amp meter hooked up pulls power from the system. If this is NOT true please tell me so I can just wire all the meters up permanently. I think I am still going to install a 2.5mm power jack on the input side(separated through a diode of course), just for when I need a simple battery charger. That way I can just "plug it up" like I do my little box...

Speaking of my "little box" I have upgraded it some... I made a new coil using the R60 rods, and 5 wires, 150 feet long and "litzed" together (4 power and 1 trigger). The wires are a much smaller gauge than what Id like (#24 and #30), but its working great for what it is... Of course, this means I added more of the 2N3055 transistors I got from Radioshack... I'm still using the 12v power supply... But it charges up these 18650 batteries I use in my Vaporizer in about 30 minutes and they are starting to work better than they used too...

I guess that's all the updates I have for the moment... I've been reading up on Branch's build, and rummaging through the forums a lot lately...
If you have read through this whole thing, I THANK YOU!!! And ask for any comments, suggestions or questions from the community.

[Brian McNece]

!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you, I was thinking that was what I was reading... I have a lawn mower battery that has a bad cell in it. I wasn't sure if I should just hook up my SSG to it, or if there was something special I should try first. One thing though, everyone always says to put distilled water in low batteries, but why? It seems to me that they have sulphuric acid in them to start with, why shouldn't we top the cells off with sulfuric acid instead of distilled water? The sulfuric acid is still in the battery, only the water has evaporated out. Definitely, only want to put distilled water in. If the battery has been spilled, well, that's different. In that case if the battery doesn't have a bad cell than you could try charging with a regular charger, then empty it out and get yourself a bottle of battery acid at your local auto parts store and start fresh.





I've read that litzing the coils and making them "polyfilar" (or however many wires your going to use) is the best way to go... this way all your wires are the same length. So that's what I plan on doing with every coil I build. My last coil was a total of 4 primary wires and 1 trigger wire. I did it by hand, except the litzing which I did with my drill. It turned out pretty nice, but I loose count after about 150 turns or so... All I'm sure of is that the wires are approximately 150 feet... cause that's what I measured out with each wire before litzing them together.

Also, I have not figured out how to wire a coil for a "generator" like the little girl had as a second coil on her machine to run the light... I've looked around on line, but cant find anything on it. Help there would be appreciated as well.

[Pastor Gordon]

sla's are hard to fix, but vehicle batteries ive had good luck with, you want to charge it with a bedini for a bit 3-12hrs then load it with a small load such as a tail light from a car for 30min-3 hours, then repeat, those times are rough estimates and it will vary, but after a couple batteries you should get the hang of it.... check to see if they need distilled water to top up the cells too, but in my experience they usually dont ... some batteries take a day or two... some take weeks of cycles.... just depends how bad it is.... if after a couple days your not able to push it over 11-12 volts you probably have a damaged cell in that battery and isnt worth the effort

Thank you, I was thinking that was what I was reading... I have a lawn mower battery that has a bad cell in it. I wasn't sure if I should just hook up my SSG to it, or if there was something special I should try first. One thing though, everyone always says to put distilled water in low batteries, but why? It seems to me that they have sulphuric acid in them to start with, why shouldn't we top the cells off with sulfuric acid instead of distilled water?

Hi Gordon,
Hand winding of coil is best, since you can rely on your self, especially when you wind the trigger for the Gen mode of SSG.
The counter in these types can go horribly wrong and give you wrong number of turns.. it may be good if you wing all at the same time (Polyfilar) bad if you wind one coil at a time or the wind for a Gen mode...
Rgds,
Faraday88.

I've read that litzing the coils and making them "polyfilar" (or however many wires your going to use) is the best way to go... this way all your wires are the same length. So that's what I plan on doing with every coil I build. My last coil was a total of 4 primary wires and 1 trigger wire. I did it by hand, except the litzing which I did with my drill. It turned out pretty nice, but I loose count after about 150 turns or so... All I'm sure of is that the wires are approximately 150 feet... cause that's what I measured out with each wire before litzing them together.

Also, I have not figured out how to wire a coil for a "generator" like the little girl had as a second coil on her machine to run the light... I've looked around on line, but cant find anything on it. Help there would be appreciated as well.

[Faraday88]

I know its a little overboard... but I'm tired of winding coils already lol... so I bought this It should be here in a couple days...

By the way... which is better, a front wheel or a rear wheel when looking for bicycle wheels????

Hi Gordon,
Hand winding of coil is best, since you can rely on your self, especially when you wind the trigger for the Gen mode of SSG.
The counter in these types can go horribly wrong and give you wrong number of turns.. it may be good if you wing all at the same time (Polyfilar) bad if you wind one coil at a time or the wind for a Gen mode...
Rgds,
Faraday88.

[Brodie Gwilliam]

sla's are hard to fix, but vehicle batteries ive had good luck with, you want to charge it with a bedini for a bit 3-12hrs then load it with a small load such as a tail light from a car for 30min-3 hours, then repeat, those times are rough estimates and it will vary, but after a couple batteries you should get the hang of it.... check to see if they need distilled water to top up the cells too, but in my experience they usually dont ... some batteries take a day or two... some take weeks of cycles.... just depends how bad it is.... if after a couple days your not able to push it over 11-12 volts you probably have a damaged cell in that battery and isnt worth the effort

[Pastor Gordon]

Quick Question... How do I desulfate batteries with the SSG?