Pastor Gordon's First try at Bedini Energizer

[Faraday88]

Rumors of my demise were greatly exaggerated lol...
Its been a very hard 6 months health-wise, but Im back! Fixing to begin putting this thing together again. Ill update as I can...

Welcome Gordon!!! I liked your Signature statement below
Rgds,
Faraday88.

[Pastor Gordon]

Welcome Gordon!!! I liked your Signature statement below
Rgds,
Faraday88.

Thank you

Here's a question for anyone who can answer...

I finally built my coil. It is made from approximately 150 feet of #20 wire (7 strands) and 1 strand of #23 wire for the trigger (I know it should have been #24 but that's what I had on hand). I litzed the wire in a clockwise direction, and then started the coil winding on the bottom, inside of the coil, wrapping according to THIS diagram, ending very close to the outside, top of the coil. It took 257 turns to use the 150 feet of wires (counted with a coil winder machine), and the ohm resistance of each of the 7 primary wires is right at 1.9 (some of them read 1.8). The coil spool is 3.25 inches tall, 3.5 inches wide with a center hole that is 3/4" wide. The center of the coil is made from copper coated welding rods, and sealed in place with epoxy.

From what I can remember, and researching it, this seems correct to me; Other than the amount of turns on the coil. Is it? (other than using a larger trigger wire?)

I have 8 transistors total (7 primary and 1 trigger). All of them are MJL21194 transistors that are nearly matched. As far as I can tell, I have good solder connections, and have it wired according to THIS diagram, except for the trigger, which goes through the pot instead of a little 500Ma and 22ohm resistor. All my wiring is made from 12 gauge stranded copper wire, except the connections of the output diodes, of which I used a 12 gauge solid copper wire. All the magnet wires are soldered directly to there end points on the transistors, instead of going through a terminal strip. Im even using a wire wound 1k pot!

Im using a brand new 26" Sta-True aluminum wheel, with 18 ceramic magnets spaced evenly around the wheel (Super-Glued and then wrapped with tape) with north pole facing out. It spins extremely well and true. I can spin it by hand and it takes so long to stop I give up counting the minutes lol... The magnets clear the coil with about a 1/8" gap.

Here's the problem, I cant get the wheel to run... and I cant figure out why. Any troubleshooting thoughts anyone might have is greatly appreciated.

[Allen R.]

Hi Pastor G. I would reverse the trigger wire connections. That is what usually happens to me when I have a no start condition. Hope this helps.

al

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Pastor Gordon,

It is made from approximately 150 feet of #20 wire (7 strands) and 1 strand of #23 wire for the trigger (I know it should have been #24 but that's what I had on hand).

It's supposed to be 130' not 150' and the sizes are supposed to be #20 for the power windings and # 23 for the trigger.

I have 8 transistors total (7 primary and 1 trigger).

The trigger winding does NOT use a separate transistor, but instead powers the base circuits of the 7 transistors that drive the power windings! The eighth transistor is an unused spare when you only have seven power windings. Look at the schematic a little closer. The trigger coil feeds all the transistor base connections (all seven) through individual 470 ohm resistors from a common buss. The 500ma bulb isn't required, but the 22 ohm resistor is what fine tunes all the base emitter circuits. You can substitute a 10 watt, 100 ohm pot for the fixed resistor (22 ohm or thereabouts) to let you tune for best running.

Im even using a wire wound 1k pot!

A 1K pot is too much resistance. Try the 100 ohm one I suggested, instead.

[Pastor Gordon]

Hi Pastor Gordon,



It's supposed to be 130' not 150' and the sizes are supposed to be #20 for the power windings and # 23 for the trigger.



The trigger winding does NOT use a separate transistor, but instead powers the base circuits of the 7 transistors that drive the power windings! The eighth transistor is an unused spare when you only have seven power windings. Look at the schematic a little closer. The trigger coil feeds all the transistor base connections (all seven) through individual 470 ohm resistors from a common buss. The 500ma bulb isn't required, but the 22 ohm resistor is what fine tunes all the base emitter circuits. You can substitute a 10 watt, 100 ohm pot for the fixed resistor (22 ohm or thereabouts) to let you tune for best running.



A 1K pot is too much resistance. Try the 100 ohm one I suggested, instead.

OK, well I do have #20 and #23 wire... (I thought it was supposed to be 4 sizes in difference, which would be #24 wire)

Also, I do understand that the eighth transistor is redundant... Should I disconnect the entire transistor? or just leave it as is, unhooked from the coil???

Now the pot... This thing worked in my smaller model, which also used 150 feet of wire, using the same pot and resistors. I just cant figure out why this one wont run.

Im going to try switching out the trigger wire connections as Allen R. suggested first, then Ill try removing the pot altogether and replacing with a 22 ohm resistor. The original Bedini circuit in the intermediate handbook says to use the 1k pot... So that's what I got. Either way it seems to me that the pot would make it much easier to adjust the run speed of the unit though.

[Pastor Gordon]

Hi Pastor G. I would reverse the trigger wire connections. That is what usually happens to me when I have a no start condition. Hope this helps.

al

Thank you, Im going to try that first thing tomorrow... then Ill make other changes as suggested by Gary Hammond if it don't work...

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Pastor Gordon,

OK, well I do have #20 and #23 wire... (I thought it was supposed to be 4 sizes in difference, which would be #24 wire)

Also, I do understand that the eighth transistor is redundant... Should I disconnect the entire transistor? or just leave it as is, unhooked from the coil???

Now the pot... This thing worked in my smaller model, which also used 150 feet of wire, using the same pot and resistors. I just cant figure out why this one wont run.

Im going to try switching out the trigger wire connections as Allen R. suggested first, then Ill try removing the pot altogether and replacing with a 22 ohm resistor. The original Bedini circuit in the intermediate handbook says to use the 1k pot... So that's what I got. Either way it seems to me that the pot would make it much easier to adjust the run speed of the unit though.

Page 57 of the Beginner's Handbook specifies 130' of #20 (seven strands) and 130' of #23 (single strand). 150' will work, but 130' is less resistance and will give somewhat better results. Also, are you wired up in attraction mode or repulsion mode? Attraction mode will give better results than repulsion mode.

Unless you bought a board from Teslagenx, I don't why you have an extra transistor. You said it was for the trigger in your first post, but didn't elaborate how it was hooked up to the circuit. I just assumed maybe you were trying to drive the trigger winding with it somehow, which won't work at all. At any rate, to answer your question, the extra transistor should not be hooked up anywhere in the circuit.

Now about the pot. It wasn't mentioned in the Beginner's Handbook at all, and the individual base resistors specified were 470 ohms each. The Intermediate Handbook (on page 9) directs you to replace the individual branch 470 ohm resistors with 100 ohm resistors, and then add a 1K pot in series with the trigger winding to allow you to tune the circuit for fastest running with the least current draw. But in actual practice it is easier to tune and more stable to use matched 470 ohm, one watt resistors in the individual branch circuits and tune with a 10 watt, 100 ohm pot in series with the trigger coil. When the best tuning is achieved, the pot can then be replaced with the same value fixed resistor as the pot measures.
Or you can add a SPDT switch with one pole connected to the pot and one pole connected to the fixed resistor. You can also use a multi pole switch to select between several resistor values and/or the pot. Peter did something similar to this with the "trigger shift switch" in the Advanced Handbook.

At any rate, try switching the leads on the trigger winding first as Allen suggested.

[Pastor Gordon]

Gary,

The extra transistor is just that... EXTRA. It’s not hooked to the coil at all. The common trigger wire is running directly to it as well as all the others, but there is no main coil connection as I only have 7 #20 windings. I’m going to remove it from the unit next time I work on it. If nothing else removing it will reduce any resistance it may be causing in the trigger line. I didn't get the chance to work on the rig today. Hopefully I can tomorrow, we are having a bunch of trees cleared out of the yard and I had to disconnect the power cable that runs out to my shop.

Right now I’m trying to implement what it says on page 9 of the intermediate handbook... Specifically when he says "The simple method involves replacing the 470 Ohm base resistors on each transistor with a 100 Ohm resistor and then inserting a 1 watt 1k Ohm variable resistor (potentiometer) in series, as shown in the second drawing." But I failed to use the 100 Ohm resistors lol... I was looking at my original, little machine where I have 470's installed. I’ll have to order me a 10 watt, 100 Ohm pot and give that a try too... You apparently have experience doing just that

For some reason or another its not letting me post with quotes today... Having issues and I cant tell if its the forum, or me...

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Pastor Gordon,

But I failed to use the 100 Ohm resistors lol... I was looking at my original, little machine where I have 470's installed. I’ll have to order me a 10 watt, 100 Ohm pot and give that a try too... You apparently have experience doing just that

Yeah, I've built four different configurations of the bicycle SSG machine and several smaller machines as well. At present I have two larger ones running with 26" bike wheels. One has a coil with five #18 power windings 150' long. No trigger winding. It's triggered by hall switches and runs in attraction mode.

The other one is set up in the "Advanced Handbook" configuration with two extra generator coils lighting 84 LEDs, and runs in attraction. The basic run coil has seven #20 power windings 130' long and one #23 trigger winding 130" long. The branch resistors are 470 ohms and the common trigger resistors are switch selected at 0, 12, or 24 ohms. I have also previously used a 100 ohm, 25 watt rheostat to fine tune all the machines. The overall tuning is affected by air gap, RPM, and pulse width as well as the trigger resistance.

I also have switches on each machine that allow me to run in either radiant or common ground (gen) mode. The advanced machine, running in common ground mode, has achieved COP's of 1.25 measured with meters.

[Pastor Gordon]

Just wondering...

Does anyone out there have the Gerber files for the Teslagenx 8 transistor board? If so can I get a copy?

[Pastor Gordon]

Ok, I knew that last post was a long shot...


Today I realized that I had my coil wound backwards! DUH!!! I printed the beginners handbook, and took it out to my shop. Low and behold I had the stupid thing wound backwards! And it was already permanently mounted on the support! So I had to remove the entire support, unwind the whole thing by hand, and then hand wind the coil in the right direction... took about 2 hours lol. But its as close to right as I can get it now... I even shortened it a bit since Gary said it should only be 130 feet.

I then removed the redundant transistor from the system, and removed the 2 Lead Acid batteries from my mobility scooter and put them on a regular charger cause they were about dead. And then my wife said I had to quit playing lol. Time to come in... HAHA we've been married or 22 years. I listen to what Im told

So maybe tomorrow, if its cool enough out there I will solder everything back up and try again... Wish me luck

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Pastor Gordon,

I hate to tell you, but the coil can be wound in either direction. The way you had it, the machine would run in repulsion. The way you just rewound it will cause it to run in attraction.

All you have to do to change from one to the other is reverse all the power leads and also the trigger leads. (See page 74 of the "Beginner's Handbook".) The 150' will work, but the 130' should work a little better. Sorry if I caused you a lot of extra work.

Here's wishing you luck as you requested.

I understand perfectly about listening to the wife! I've been married 48 years myself. I'm planning to attend the upcoming conference, and I talked her into flying out on it's final day to join me and take a week driving back home for a little vacation.

[Pastor Gordon]

WOOHOO Its running!!!

I replaced all the 470 Ohm resistors with 100 Ohm resistors, I added a 22 Ohm resistor inline with the pot (Im still using the 1k wire-wound pot).

At the moment, I am hoping to de-sulfate an old lawnmower battery. It holds around 5-6 volts, and will take a charge up to 13 volts, but after disconnecting from a standard charger it quickly falls back to around 5-6 volts (takes about an hour).

Here's some pics of the machine... I know the solder-work is sloppy, but hey, Its working!!! The machine was running when I took the pics... I have to make 2 posts to get all the pics in. (Only allows 5 per post)

[Pastor Gordon]

Heres the other pics...

[Gary Hammond]

Hi Pastor Gordon,

Kudos on getting it running!

Nice construction job.