Building an SG by the end of this year.

[JRHKF]

Aaron Murakami challenged my to build a Bedini SG by the end of the year. I have some questions:
* For the SG, what kind of oscilloscope should I use and how should I connect it to the circuit? Should I use banana plugs?
* On the circuit, what should ground consist of?
* What kind of magnets should I use on the flywheel?

[James_Somewhere_In_Idaho]

Hi JRHKF

1a) Most people (I see) are using the newer/smaller digital O-scopes. Whatever your budget can afford. Just keep in mind that you want to be able to use it for more than just this build (you will find that you will catch the bug, and want to go for the full experience), and will want one with a wide range of features and a good range of frequencies. That being said, I just have an old analogue IWATSU SS-57602 scope (My avitar pic has it showing the "h-wave" of my first build)--however, around here it's "you run what you brung" (an old street racer colloquial term for do what you can afford). 1b) One can connect it to various places and for various reasons, however, what I think you are asking is "how do I see the "h-wave"? I usually hook one of the probes to the collector side of an individual transistor (after the diode) and ground, or to the positive buss that the transistors merge to going to the charge battery and ground for my measurements, depending on what I want to see. 1c) You can use whatever hook-up you want, but I usually use "mini-hook" type ends on my test equipment--they are small and grab onto whatever tiny circuit sticking out (diode ends, ic legs, etc), but there are times you would want to just hold straight probes onto something while comparing one thing to another.

2) This is a vague question...ground is ground, and there can also be isolated grounds. Always know which ground goes to which component. However, if you are asking what one should USE for a ground, it could be one of many things--a thick copper wire, a small or large piece of copper pipe/tubing, some copper flashing, a chassis buss bar...all of these, I have considered...be creative, here is an example of extreme creativity: http://www.energyscienceforum.com/al...achmentid=4035 study your circuit schematics, and see if you can determine one of the several busses in this photo of Nityesh's 81-filar SS-SSG (hint, look at the top...there is a big washer with lots of solder on it). Also, following is a photo of a very nice set-up I am somewhat copying right now, use your imagination:



3) Resist the urge to use neos--only use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Ceramic-...FRHD6RFNM8XYXE You can shop around and find deals for bulk amounts. John B. (the inventor of this technology, and a good mentor) states several reasons for this

One important question you did not ask:"what should I use for core material?" One should only use steel welding rod for cores, such as this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Oxy-Acet...2F6ZMJJV95H783 one can find it cheap at any welding supply center. Here is an example of how that looks (only it is just a bifilar, you should build yours the most recent prescribed way):



Also, you should pick up, at least, the beginner book found here (though, if it were me, I would go for the discount and get all three--note, I am not affiliated with Aaron or Peter in any way): http://bedinisg.com/ Those manuals should answer pretty much all of your questions you would have while building an SSG at any level...and if you have questions that they do not answer, there are plenty of good folks here that can do a good job of that. Hope that helps

[JRHKF]

jamesgray3rd,
You mentioned the question: "what should I use for core material?" By core you mean core of the spool? (The book, Free Energy Generation, says to reject using iron cores.) Btw, where can I get a spool to hold the wire, and how big should the spool be? Another, important clarification: Aaron Murakami said to use the following two diagrams: http://www.keelynet.com/bedmot/npole.jpg and http://www.keelynet.com/bedmot/north1.jpg. These are available at http://www.keelynet.com/bedmot/bedmot.htm. Btw, http://www.keelynet.com/bedmot/north1.jpg depicts a small bulge at a point where two wires cross, just under the transistor. Does this bulge mean a four-way junction in the circuit (that is, current can flow between any two of the four lines coming out of the "bulge")?

[James_Somewhere_In_Idaho]

Hi JRHKF

Are you sure Aaron recommended that? I am almost sure he would recommend the Beginners book toward the bottom of this page: http://bedinisg.com/ It doesn't cost much and pretty much describes what you need to do at every step including the core material I outlined in post #2, which is simply oxyacetylene steel welding rod...

Really, just purchase the beginner manual and follow it step-by-step--my best advice is always build it like John B says, and that is how the book says to do it...

Plus, you can modify the same build to an intermediate and advanced build (the reason I suggested getting all three manuals in post #2). I am not affiliated with Aaron or Peter, so I get nothing for you buying those books. I have all three and they are indispensable! I am really surprised Aaron didn't suggest the same thing I am saying. They will answer all your questions--I even referenced some of the circuit diagrams in them during the build I am now working on...

You can find the spools most people use for coil forms, as well as, other things that will make your build easier at: http://www.teslagenx.com/kits.html...

My first build used PVC test plug ends with 3/4 inch hole saw cuts for glued in 3/4 in PVC pipe (again, pictured in post #2), but I do not suggest doing that, as those coil frames fail easily...

I now use 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch thick HDPE cutting board material and cut whatever diameter coil frame I need with a hole saw, and then cut the center out to fit the correct size poly pipe for the core size, that I then plastic-weld together with a soldering iron and a heat shrink blower. I do not suggest that for beginners...

Just stick with basics, and if you want to make things easy on yourself, you can get the basics that you need at TeslagenX, they have everything except the wire, bike wheel, and fixture for your build (you have to build that)...

You can save $ by doing a lot of this yourself, but some people just need to buy parts that are in kit form, and later when they better understand how things work, they can replicate the next one on their own...

This is about all I can tell ya. If you want to do it all yourself, my suggestion is still "BUY THE BOOK" (actually, take advantage of the price cut for all three), and then build the energizer VERBATUM. Get er' running, and then ask yourself why it does what it does. Do not cut corners. Build it PER-SPECIFICATION, the way John says to do it, and you will most likely be amazed at what you built, and what it does...I certainly was...

Good luck, and get building...

[Aaron Murakami]

Hi James,

For JRHKF, he has shown an interest in this for a while and has been to a few conferences. For a bare basic model, I actually did recommend the little skate wheel version based on those old original Schoolgirl schematics at Keelynet. That was to be ultra low cost, small and simple with one power winding just to bring one model to completion to learn from. It will be very low power but just to show the principles - I thought it would be the best one for him to start with to make it easy.

I received an email that he did buy the books, which is an excellent choice in order to get the full detailed picture but in any case, he has all the info now to build one of any size. It's up to you JRHKF.

@ JRHKF - That "bulge" is that dot showing that all 4 points are in physical metallic contact.

Aaron

Hi JRHKF

Are you sure Aaron recommended that? I am almost sure he would recommend the Beginners book toward the bottom of this page: http://bedinisg.com/ It doesn't cost much and pretty much describes what you need to do at every step including the core material I outlined in post #2, which is simply oxyacetylene steel welding rod...

Really, just purchase the beginner manual and follow it step-by-step--my best advice is always build it like John B says, and that is how the book says to do it...

Plus, you can modify the same build to an intermediate and advanced build (the reason I suggested getting all three manuals in post #2). I am not affiliated with Aaron or Peter, so I get nothing for you buying those books. I have all three and they are indispensable! I am really surprised Aaron didn't suggest the same thing I am saying. They will answer all your questions--I even referenced some of the circuit diagrams in them during the build I am now working on...

You can find the spools most people use for coil forms, as well as, other things that will make your build easier at: http://www.teslagenx.com/kits.html...

My first build used PVC test plug ends with 3/4 inch hole saw cuts for glued in 3/4 in PVC pipe (again, pictured in post #2), but I do not suggest doing that, as those coil frames fail easily...

I now use 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch thick HDPE cutting board material and cut whatever diameter coil frame I need with a hole saw, and then cut the center out to fit the correct size poly pipe for the core size, that I then plastic-weld together with a soldering iron and a heat shrink blower. I do not suggest that for beginners...

Just stick with basics, and if you want to make things easy on yourself, you can get the basics that you need at TeslagenX, they have everything except the wire, bike wheel, and fixture for your build (you have to build that)...

You can save $ by doing a lot of this yourself, but some people just need to buy parts that are in kit form, and later when they better understand how things work, they can replicate the next one on their own...

This is about all I can tell ya. If you want to do it all yourself, my suggestion is still "BUY THE BOOK" (actually, take advantage of the price cut for all three), and then build the energizer VERBATUM. Get er' running, and then ask yourself why it does what it does. Do not cut corners. Build it PER-SPECIFICATION, the way John says to do it, and you will most likely be amazed at what you built, and what it does...I certainly was...

Good luck, and get building...

[James_Somewhere_In_Idaho]

Hi Aaron

Cool, thanks for chiming in.

I built my first one with the project info provided on the old Monopole forum (before this one). It was a bi-ifiler, and was very educational. I hope JRHKF gains as much from his build--a very inexpensive education, as opposed to the "schooling" one would get at an electronics program...hahaha...and, I should talk, I have a worthless Masters degree, and am even published (in a BS field).

[Triste Figura]

Hello Friends of the Forum, raised very interesting what I'm new here and wanted to ask for your help and thank you in advance without further ado I will refer to me:

Acquired some time construction manuals SG (Bedini SG - The Complete Beginners Handbook), have built an energizer with bicycle wheel 22-inch, built the basing on page 63 of the circuit .... I run the OS running very well at the beginning and to use a battery of 12 volts and 5 amps to load and operate the GS.
The battery charging 12.5V had, and had power battery 12.7v
in a couple of minutes I checked the battery charge was coming to 16.8 volts.

So far so good, until my young son playing with SG disconnect the negative cable of the battery charging and I think here the problems started because Transistors (some of them) are too hot and apparently speed SG It is no longer the same and does not work well as it was doing before. In summary I think the GS security system does not work properly because when my son told me that disconnect the negative cable only for a moment, the security system are neon bulbs did not work to protect MJL21194G transistors.

Please forum friends, if anyone can help me understand what happened are eternally grateful. The energetic indepencia to help many people who need a lot and make this world a little more just with a little grain of sand.

Thank you friends, thank you very much.

[James_Somewhere_In_Idaho]

Hi Triste Figura

First question: Did you use the part numbers for the transistors, diodes, resistors, and neon lights?

Second question: I know my kids were very curious when they were young, and would have loved to see those neons glow. Do you think that your children, innocently, unhooked, and reconnected, the circuit to see the neons glow, then kept doing it because it was fun, and at some point, the neons did not light up? Not saying they were being naughty or anything, just that kids will be kids...and maybe they didn't understand what might happen if the circuit was disconnected for a prolonged period of time...It is good that children are curious. One must direct their curiosity, though.

This is why, in my opinion, it is best to show kids how to build these energizers ,warning them about how important it is to do things certain ways, and to be careful. If they build small versions of what you are building, they take greater care when near them, because they are then "invested" in the project themselves--learning, right along with you, and not just curious...Following, is an example of what I am talking about--this is Patrick's video describing projects he helped his daughter with (BTW, thank you Patrick for sharing this):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zt22kqxUV4

If you raise your kids with similar principals, including them in your experiments, and having their own projects, you might end up raising the next John Bedini...just saying...

The neons, are there to protect the circuit, mostly in case one forgets to hook up the circuit before starting it up, but not for prolonged periods, and not when the energizer is really putting out some power.

Sorry, but I think you blew some transistors out...

In my opinion, this is a good excuse, to bring your children "in-on-it" and have them build simple versions right along side of you...what do you think about that? I mean, really, how did the energizer become known as the "simple school girl motor" (SSG) anyway? It is because John B showed a curious 9-year old how to build one...something to ponder...

[James McDonald]

So far so good, until my young son playing with SG disconnect the negative cable of the battery charging and I think here the problems started because Transistors (some of them) are too hot and apparently speed SG It is no longer the same and does not work well as it was doing before. In summary I think the GS security system does not work properly because when my son told me that disconnect the negative cable only for a moment, the security system are neon bulbs did not work to protect MJL21194G transistors.

Please forum friends, if anyone can help me understand what happened are eternally grateful. The energetic indepencia to help many people who need a lot and make this world a little more just with a little grain of sand.

Thank you friends, thank you very much.

Hi Triste Figura --

As John Bedini always said you should "never" run the SG Machine without a "load" or a charge battery.
Some of the Transistors are most likely fired and need to be replaced. As a general rule I always unhook
the "Negative Terminal" of the Primary battery first and let the wheel spin down to almost a stop before I unhook
the "Positive Terminal" of the Charge battery.

Hook up procedure to start SG Machine to run.

1) Hookup up Common Terminal between the Primary and Charge Batteries.
2) Hookup "Positive Terminal" of the Charge Battery.
3) Hookup "Negative Terminal of the Primary Battery.
4) Give SG Machine wheel a spin.

The above procedure is followed in reverse order when unhooking to stop a SG Machine run.
Just wait a few minutes before unhooking the "Positive Terminal of the Charge Battery. This
allows the Coils magnetic field to fully collapse its current into the Charge Battery.

-- James McDonald

[JRHKF]

The man I live with recommends using a circuitboard as a place to assemble the circuit, so that you can easily correct any mistakes. Does everyone agree?

[JRHKF]

Also, what kind of circuitboard should I use, if any? Also, are capacitors needed in the circuit? (That is, if I use aforementioned Keelynet diagrams.)

[John_Koorn]

Hi JRHKF,

Circuit boards definitely do make things easier. TeslagenX sells ready made Bedini SG circuit boards and even complete kits.

The following link is our introductory kit, and is very popular with beginners. It also includes complete and illustrated step-by-step instructions.
http://www.teslagenx.com/kits/tx-sg4...egory=kits|pcb
This kit (as with all of our kits) is also approved by John Bedini

You could also just order the circuit board if you already have the parts, or wish to source them yourself. (Note, instructions are not provided if you only order the circuit board)

Regards,

John K.

[James_Somewhere_In_Idaho]

Hi JRHKF

Yes, as a beginner, that is a good idea. However, it's usually best to keep the lead wires as short as possible, so consider that when you design a circuit. An easy way is to mount things on a perf-board.If you are confident that you could do that, I would suggest going that route. However, there are good circuit board kits at http://teslagenx.com/kits/tx-sg4teb....egory=kits|pcb as well. That would be the easy route, then you could build your own circuits after you feel confident. My first circuit was on a per-board. However, I now solder most of the components onto each other, or lay them out on a clear acrylic sheet, or some such thing, but I would not suggest that as a beginner, though. Hope that helps...

[JRHKF]

I got the transistors, diodes, resistors, and pot that Murakami/Keelynet recommended. The transistors are MJL21194. The resistors are 100 ohm. The pot is 1000 ohm. What about the neon lights? I didn't see any in the Keelynet diagrams.

[James_Somewhere_In_Idaho]

Hi JRHKF

Most people use NE-2 neons. I purchased a bunch of them. Shop around for deals. Beware of scalpers charging many times their value. Here is an example of an, OK, deal for 10 pieces: http://www.amazon.com/A3C-NE2-U-Bulb...words=neon+ne2 hope that helps...