"Electronic Aspect" Explains My SSG No Go?

[Mike Swanson]

Hm, speaking of the electronic aspect in the other thread I wonder if poor soldering is what is wrong with my SSG. With the batteries connected, it spins the same as with no batteries, and slows down to a stop as fast as if there were no power. And the neon bulb does not come on nor the smaller bulb. Was wondering if the higher resistance of some poor soldering would explain this, as I believe everything is connected according to the diagram and instructions I got for the r-charge small little circuit board. Tried to run it with potentiometer turned way up and way down. Any simple tests I can do before I attempt another board perhaps with a higher power soldering gun for the 8 gauge battery wires etc? Thanks,

Mike

[Barrie Castle]

Hm, speaking of the electronic aspect in the other thread I wonder if poor soldering is what is wrong with my SSG. With the batteries connected, it spins the same as with no batteries, and slows down to a stop as fast as if there were no power. And the neon bulb does not come on nor the smaller bulb. Was wondering if the higher resistance of some poor soldering would explain this, as I believe everything is connected according to the diagram and instructions I got for the r-charge small little circuit board. Tried to run it with potentiometer turned way up and way down. Any simple tests I can do before I attempt another board perhaps with a higher power soldering gun for the 8 gauge battery wires etc? Thanks,

Mike

Hi

I'm not a moderator, but I'm an electronic tech who might be able to help. If you reckon your soldering is suspect or you haven't stipped back the insulation on the magnet wire completely, you can test this with your continuity test function on your multimeter or use the lowest ohms setting. Just measure each side of every solder join & you should get zero ohms. If that all checks out, power it up again & check the voltage on each side of every soldered join - it must be the same on one side as the other. I say this because sometimes a break will only show up after power-up. If everything still checks out & your components are all connected with the right polarity, get back to us with winding resistances on each coil (maybe some wires are rubbing through or broken) & let us know what voltages you get at every connection & what sort of meter you're using so we can compare your measurements with ours. If you have an oscilloscope, then you can check waveforms too. In the mean time, you might like to try swapping components, like your pot, with brand new ones, even if your meter shows that there's nothing wrong.

All The Best.
Barrie.

[Mike Swanson]

Hi Barrie, thanks a lot for the tips! I was fumbling through a resistance test so it's good to know now how to do it. So I should strip the magnet wire ends before I solder? That might be it as I didn't do this. Will try the continuity and resistance test after I redo the magnet wire ends if it's still on strike. I don't have oscilloscope but I got a pretty good spark and pop when I had the circuit board off its mount last night, so it's definitely got something going on . Thanks again,

Mike

[Mike Swanson]

Hi Barrie, It was indeed the magnet wires! I desoldered them, burned the ends with a lighter and sanded them then checked the resistance with nearest connection--0. The wheel flies now! Thanks so much for your expertise, might seem simple but I would probably not have thought of it. Depending on how my experiment goes I might have to go back and check the circuit but right now !

[Barrie Castle]

Well done

Keep On! It's on to tuning for you now. Let us know if you run into any problems. I reckon you've got it sorted now.

All the best