A few newbie questions.

[Tom C]

Really, so no one can say what's wrong? I do not want to give up on the device, only because I can not repeat it. I can not continue to charge / discharge the battery, because I can not configure the device.

the reason we cannot tell you anything esle is because it is supposed to work the way we have described it. put your meter on each end of the circuit minus the batteries, and check the resistance thru the trigger. if you can see the resistance change with the leads on each END of the circuit from the base resistor to the battery connection, then the trigger is ok, if not there is something wrong.
Tom C

[kingstingtin]

I commented on my video. Please look it again. I hope now to be clear what I mean.
Thank you.
IMAG0117 - YouTube

[Tom C]

I commented on my video. Please look it again. I hope now to be clear what I mean.
Thank you.
IMAG0117 - YouTube

its a 37 minute video, please tell me where in the video you are commenting.

Tom C

[kingstingtin]

Yes, the video is the same. I added in a written comment on the screen.

[Tom C]

Yes, the video is the same. I added in a written comment on the screen.

yes I know its the same, tell me what you said I cannot watch the whole video I dont have the time.
Tom C

[kingstingtin]

I commented on the stages that happens when configuring the device.
It shows how I'm trying to find the sweet spot, and what happens after that as I find.
Worth watching leash first 20 min, then repeat the situation shown.

[Gary Hammond]

yes I know its the same, tell me what you said I cannot watch the whole video I dont have the time.
Tom C

Hi Tom,

I'll try to help here. I watched his entire video. He has a 4.5mm (.177") air gap (may be too close), and starts the machine running (with a slow spin) and the resistance set at 250 ohms. When it reaches max speed at that setting, it is drawing 250 ma with 2 pulses/magnet pass. He then adjusts the pot to get to only 1 pulse/magnet which brings the current draw up to 320 ma and a good increase in wheel speed (no tach). He then slowly reduces the pot resistance, the wheel speeds up slightly more, and the current draw drops to about 200 ma still with only 1 pulse/magnet.

He then disconnects the battery, stops the wheel and measures the resistance at 754 ohms. He then reconnects the battery, gives the wheel a slow spin and the machine stablizes at 120 ma draw and 2 pulses/magnet at a slower speed than when he stopped it.

He goes through this process two more times with similar results, except that on the second run he gets to 1 pulse/magnet at 280 ma draw and 370 ohms as he lowers the resistance before raising it again.

Looks like he isn't spinning the wheel fast enough on start up to get to 1 pulse/magnet at the sweet spot setting of around 750 ohms. He has to lower the resistance to get to only 1 pulse/magnet and then raise it again to get back to the sweet spot.

Would be curious about the free spin time and wheel balance. It also appeared to me that when he was measuring the resistance of the pot, he didn't isolate it from the rest of the circuit. Wouldn't that place it in parallel with the primary winding through either the diode or transistor B/E junction resulting in a very low reading? He also leaves the ammeter attached all the time which in my experience would also reduce the ability to "shift into high gear".

[Tom C]

Hi Tom,

I'll try to help here. I watched his entire video. He has a 4.5mm (.177") air gap (may be too close), and starts the machine running (with a slow spin) and the resistance set at 250 ohms. When it reaches max speed at that setting, it is drawing 250 ma with 2 pulses/magnet pass. He then adjusts the pot to get to only 1 pulse/magnet which brings the current draw up to 320 ma and a good increase in wheel speed (no tach). He then slowly reduces the pot resistance, the wheel speeds up slightly more, and the current draw drops to about 200 ma still with only 1 pulse/magnet.

He then disconnects the battery, stops the wheel and measures the resistance at 754 ohms. He then reconnects the battery, gives the wheel a slow spin and the machine stablizes at 120 ma draw and 2 pulses/magnet at a slower speed than when he stopped it.

He goes through this process two more times with similar results, except that on the second run he gets to 1 pulse/magnet at 280 ma draw and 370 ohms as he lowers the resistance before raising it again.

Looks like he isn't spinning the wheel fast enough on start up to get to 1 pulse/magnet at the sweet spot setting of around 750 ohms. He has to lower the resistance to get to only 1 pulse/magnet and then raise it again to get back to the sweet spot.

Would be curious about the free spin time and wheel balance. It also appeared to me that when he was measuring the resistance of the pot, he didn't isolate it from the rest of the circuit. Wouldn't that place it in parallel with the primary winding through either the diode or transistor B/E junction resulting in a very low reading? He also leaves the ammeter attached all the time which in my experience would also reduce the ability to "shift into high gear".

if that is the problem, it is definately a mechanical defect in the wheel, I think you are right, if machine is mechanically almost frictionless it should have no problem shifting thru the sweet spots to its final tuning.

constantin,

put a switch in the trigger circuit so you can switch from the potentiometer to a fixed resistance.

Tom C

[kingstingtin]

I used the all-new 6001 bearings for the axle. Also, I cleansed them from grease and smeared with machine oil. Free rotation of the wheel a little more than 5 minutes. The manual says that this should be sufficient. With an installed the coil, the rotation of the wheel is 4 minutes.

[kingstingtin]

I recently bought such bearings. I can install them, but I'm not sure that it will give the best result.

[kingstingtin]

constantin, put a switch in the trigger circuit so you can switch from the potentiometer to a fixed resistance.
Tom C

Thank you, Tom. I will do so.

[kingstingtin]

Reviewing movies "energy from the vacuum", I thought it might have a problem with an imaginary south pole? Magnets may be too far, and the imaginary south pole too weak? Therefore, the wheel can not of itself accelerate? Or inductance of the coil is very weak and can not pull an imaginary south pole with enough force?

[Tom C]

constantin,

this is why the Sg is so important, there are electrical, mechanical, magnetic and storage battery variables...... all of them are easily modified to solve problems.

spend some time thinking about each aspect of the machine and how you can make it better.

your magnet spacing looks ok, your coil looks fine, every machine is different. I dont see any steel nearby that can slow the wheel down.

Tom C

[elliott]

motor bedini

Hello I would like to know about the history Bedini motor

[kingstingtin]

I experimented a bit with the magnet and core. And do not get clear answers. Please watch my video and answer the questions at the end of the video.
http://www.youtube.com/my_videos?feature=mhee