Bobs 1st 3D Project

[BobZilla]

Good suggestions guys but it won't help with the way this thing is currently. See the bearing is buried in between the frame and the bearing plate that I made. The plate has a counter sunk ring for the flange bearing to sit in and then that is bolted to the frame so if you can imagine it is sandwiched between the frame and the plate but does not stick out on either side. Anything I would try to put on the axle would then rub on the frame or the other side would rub the mounting plate. I had tried some tape because it was thin enough to get in there without rubbing anything but it's not doing such a great job.

Here is a pic from the software of the bearing mount plate. So imaging a flange bearing pressed into this and the flange sits even. That side then is bolted to the frame.

[min2oly]

can you cut a straw? cut to length you need then slice the remaining part lengthwise and cut some more to fit. if it works, use some glue...

[BobZilla]

can you cut a straw? cut to length you need then slice the remaining part lengthwise and cut some more to fit. if it works, use some glue...

That could work, might have to try that. I eventually want to share the plans for this machine though and not everyone would be able to put fixes in place. I want it to be as simple for someone to put together and have a working machine. I have also thought about reversing my coil current. If it is pushing away as it is right now then perhaps it will draw it in if I reverse it.


I am not claiming any OU here although it may be possible. What this machine does represent is a way to take a very small input and charge pretty sizable batteries. It also could be used as a desulphator for monthly maintenance on systems that use other charging methods or recovery of junk batteries.

I do believe that the power grid is going to fail, be it yellowstone, a crazy nation attacking, the passing of Nibiru, or a blast from the sun. There are many things threatening the power grid and although you could never run a home on these things you can make life a bit easier in the aftermath by providing light or fans, water pumps or radio. That is why I want to share a model that will be simple to put together and is easily repeated.

Thanks for the input guys

[min2oly]

you can also get various diameter brass piping from local hardware store and cut to length. Glue in place might work... however, as you say redesign for future print would be best.

[BobZilla]

So I have made modified plans to use a half inch axle and the bearings that have the keeper screw. I am in the process of printing the new one out now. I took he chance to also thicken up my coil holders a bit.

I did reverse my current on the coils because I realized I had them in repulsion by accident. To be clear what I mean is if I were to momentarily connect the coils the way I had them they would push away the magnets on the wheel. I changed the polarity and checked again and the magnets pulled into the coil. In realizing I had it backwards I also started to realize some things about why the timing I was using was set how it was. It had seemed to run in an odd position from what I am used too but since it is a new machine and smaller coils and also nine of them around I had dismissed it as just being normal for this machine. Once I fixed the polarity of course teh timing needed to change.

This has everything to do with the imaginary south pole that Mr. Bedini spoke about and I should have recognized it sooner but at least I did find my mistake. I mean don't get me wrong the thing ran very well in repulsion but it was not what I was shooting for. The axle slipping horizontally is far less of an issue now but I still prefer to just change over to the bearings that will hold it in a fixed position so we are going to go forward with the new design. This first one has served as a great prototype and shown me some flaws that needed to be addressed.

I have made a short video to present the imaginary south pole, many of you know this but many more probably do not. I'm not posting and sharing for all of the experts out there but rather to help those who may need help understanding.

Link:
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmzmftzD-V0miG6i8EdpdNDHsxj-

I will be working on version two of this build over the weekend.

[Faraday88]

So I have made modified plans to use a half inch axle and the bearings that have the keeper screw. I am in the process of printing the new one out now. I took he chance to also thicken up my coil holders a bit.

I did reverse my current on the coils because I realized I had them in repulsion by accident. To be clear what I mean is if I were to momentarily connect the coils the way I had them they would push away the magnets on the wheel. I changed the polarity and checked again and the magnets pulled into the coil. In realizing I had it backwards I also started to realize some things about why the timing I was using was set how it was. It had seemed to run in an odd position from what I am used too but since it is a new machine and smaller coils and also nine of them around I had dismissed it as just being normal for this machine. Once I fixed the polarity of course teh timing needed to change.

This has everything to do with the imaginary south pole that Mr. Bedini spoke about and I should have recognized it sooner but at least I did find my mistake. I mean don't get me wrong the thing ran very well in repulsion but it was not what I was shooting for. The axle slipping horizontally is far less of an issue now but I still prefer to just change over to the bearings that will hold it in a fixed position so we are going to go forward with the new design. This first one has served as a great prototype and shown me some flaws that needed to be addressed.

I have made a short video to present the imaginary south pole, many of you know this but many more probably do not. I'm not posting and sharing for all of the experts out there but rather to help those who may need help understanding.

Link:
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmzmftzD-V0miG6i8EdpdNDHsxj-

I will be working on version two of this build over the weekend.

Very good demonstration of the scalar South pole...you may alternatively show it in the Attraction mode for those circular neo magnets in the tube.. (that is attraction to the Scalar pole in the middle)
i suggest you add this experiment in the JB's Magnetic field model thread as well..!

Very good demonstration of the scalar South pole...you may alternatively show it in the Attraction mode for those circular neo magnets in the tube.. (that is attraction to the Scalar pole in the middle)
i suggest you add this experiment in the JB's Magnetic field model thread as well..!
There is another way to consider this... Universal law of Magnetisim :'Repulsion leads to Attraction and vice versa'
Rgds,
Faraday88.

[BobZilla]

Hi Faraday,
Thanks for the kind comment.

Look guys I want to expand a little bit on this and why it is important. Now we know that what I am doing with this machine is different from the original Bedini method with the BJT transistors and doing the timing in raw format directly from the trigger wound on a power coil. What I am about to describe is meant to be understood in that context, I compensate with a separate timing wheel to come up with the same basic effect however.

Now to the point.. Why is it important to look at the invisible south and fire according to it's position? Because if you have your trigger wired properly as prescribed in the original method you will be catching the second side of the wave inducted on the trigger after TDC, and as Mr. Bedini often noted about 23 degrees off. This sets the condition for your firing to occur when the actual magnet has already left the proximity of the core AND avoids induction to the power coil at that time. Yes there is induction prior but not at the time of firing the power coils from the primary source. This matters because current absorbs the radiant spike. In other words you would not want an inducted current to the power coils at the same moment your trying to pump the radiant via the primary pumping and collapsing. Waves can and will cancel each other out, you do not want mixed signals. Hopefully this is maki9ng sense. You want that clean on/off with no external signal from normal induction. I am talking about a mode one configuration here when we are going for the pure spike, not common ground or genny coils.

[Brian McNece]

Hi Faraday,
Thanks for the kind comment.

Look guys I want to expand a little bit on this and why it is important. Now we know that what I am doing with this machine is different from the original Bedini method with the BJT transistors and doing the timing in raw format directly from the trigger wound on a power coil. What I am about to describe is meant to be understood in that context, I compensate with a separate timing wheel to come up with the same basic effect however.

Now to the point.. Why is it important to look at the invisible south and fire according to it's position? Because if you have your trigger wired properly as prescribed in the original method you will be catching the second side of the wave inducted on the trigger after TDC, and as Mr. Bedini often noted about 23 degrees off. This sets the condition for your firing to occur when the actual magnet has already left the proximity of the core AND avoids induction to the power coil at that time. Yes there is induction prior but not at the time of firing the power coils from the primary source. This matters because current absorbs the radiant spike. In other words you would not want an inducted current to the power coils at the same moment your trying to pump the radiant via the primary pumping and collapsing. Waves can and will cancel each other out, you do not want mixed signals. Hopefully this is maki9ng sense. You want that clean on/off with no external signal from normal induction. I am talking about a mode one configuration here when we are going for the pure spike, not common ground or genny coils.

That is very interesting Bob, i'm not saying i fully understand, definitely interesting. Are you seeing differences in how it charges, or can i ask what you are seeing differently? I'm a little slow when it comes to electronics, i'm trying to understand more of it I just don't always get it.

[BobZilla]

Hi Brian,
I know it is a bit confusing, I probably do not explain myself very well.

Let me back up a bit and say for you to think of this on a regular Bedini wheel, that is the context. Forget for a moment about how I am triggering a SSR with reeds and whatnot and just think about the regular wheel. I set my timing in this setup to mimic what the regular wheel already does concerning the imaginary south and that was what I was trying to expand on, helping to understand what is happening on a regular wheel concerning the imaginary south and the 23 degrees etc. Look closely at how a normal trigger is wired, notice the direction of the coil. This was for a good reason and it is as I have explained previously, to make the POS side of the wave firing late rather than first, to position the permanent magnets away from the coil ( after TDC) and run on the south. You don't realy need to understand this if your playing with a traditional Bedini build but I am offering some explanation as to what Mr. Bedini had going on there. If you go off the reservation as I often do with the SSR's and such and create your own timing you need to understand what I'm saying, or at least should consider it. Otherwise if you start running an Inducted current over top of your primary coil pumping you will basically just be charging with current and throwing away the spike.

[BobZilla]

Hello group,
I have finished version two and been running it for awhile now. The axle is now the half inch with the keeper screws on the bearing that I spoke of. In addition I beefed up the coil mounts a bit and redesigned the reed mount. I have put together a package with the files needed to print this model and included some builder notes. The builder notes keep everything very simple so that anyone could build this thing. It uses an external battery for the trigger instead of the genny coil shorting to a cap I did on the prototype. I am only using a single reed rather than Patricks method and the coils are wired in 3 sets of parallel which are then put into series which keeps the draw fairly low. The idea is not to over complicate things for a first time builder. More experienced builders can modify however they want for whatever results they want. I have thought about building one with traditional wiring to BJT's as well but as I say these are the simplified instructions.



*Edit*
Changed from a zip file to a shared directory

New link:
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AmzmftzD-V0miHNbZQMvNTgPddSR

[John_Koorn]

That's awesome Bob!. Thanks for sharing

John K.

[BobZilla]

Thanks John.

I hope someone can make use of this. Unfortunately it seems nobody is interested.

Farewell

[John_Koorn]

Thanks John.

I hope someone can make use of this. Unfortunately it seems nobody is interested.

Farewell

Bob, I hope the "Farewell" part of your message doesn't mean you're not going to post here anymore.

Don't be disheartened by lack of interest. People's priorities change. I for one, don't seem to have the amount of time anymore that I used to put into this. I'm still very much interested though.

These days I just do one project at a time, instead of 3 or 4. And even that seems to take a lot longer.

John K.

[Brian McNece]

Thanks John.

I hope someone can make use of this. Unfortunately it seems nobody is interested.

Farewell

I am interested, however, i am not able to open that file. I have been able to see your other videos.

[Brian McNece]

Hello group,
I have finished version two and been running it for awhile now. The axle is now the half inch with the keeper screws on the bearing that I spoke of. In addition I beefed up the coil mounts a bit and redesigned the reed mount. I have put together a package with the files needed to print this model and included some builder notes. The builder notes keep everything very simple so that anyone could build this thing. It uses an external battery for the trigger instead of the genny coil shorting to a cap I did on the prototype. I am only using a single reed rather than Patricks method and the coils are wired in 3 sets of parallel which are then put into series which keeps the draw fairly low. The idea is not to over complicate things for a first time builder. More experienced builders can modify however they want for whatever results they want. I have thought about building one with traditional wiring to BJT's as well but as I say these are the simplified instructions.

Here are the files in a ZIP package:
https://1drv.ms/u/s!AmzmftzD-V0miHLOHCFcW7rbMviV

*Edit*
changed package to include some screen grabs from fusion

Bob
I finally was able to open and see your new build, very nice, I read the document you put together, that is nicely done too. Please keep sharing, I learn a lot from your postings.
I had been trying to open it on an ipad, i guess apple doesn't like zip files.