One-Coil SG 3D

[BobZilla]

Hi Doug,
Hey man don't think I am discouraging you from the 555 or the mechanical stuff at all. I think it's great that you want to reproduce the REAL circuits Mr. Bedini gave out and that is very important work. I was only showing you that if you have trouble there is another way. I love your work Doug, you are one of the few that will still step up to the plate and share your ideas and that is really great.

So I shot a little video that is specifically about coil shorting a genny coil the way I do it. There are other ways but the principal is always the same, short it at the right time and watch it soar.

I don't want to hijack your thread here buddy but I thought this might help clear up a little on what I was doing.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AmzmftzD-V0miWZPqHhE6NsuzmUX

[DMANN]

Bob,
Amazing work again! That print had to be a beast. How in the world did that large rectangle base not curl up on you? The total design seems to be really well thought out. The electrical terminals are really cool too. Your videos seem to explain everything that you are doing clearly. I believe that I have seen this process of coil shorting done by Patrick in some of his work and discussed on another thread. It certainly has peaked my interest at some point. I did some research on Doug Kronzen's work then and saved this pic on my computer: I have not personally done any experiments with this though so I can not contribute any useful information on it. It looks like something I may try in the future. I am still interested in how Watson was able to get 1800 volts per coil on each event without a make and break or spark.

Doug

[Brian McNece]

Great video Bob
Also really lovin your 3d builds, you do a great job explaining things.

[BobZilla]

Bob,
Amazing work again! That print had to be a beast. How in the world did that large rectangle base not curl up on you? The total design seems to be really well thought out. The electrical terminals are really cool too. Your videos seem to explain everything that you are doing clearly. I believe that I have seen this process of coil shorting done by Patrick in some of his work and discussed on another thread. It certainly has peaked my interest at some point. I did some research on Doug Kronzen's work then and saved this pic on my computer: [ATTACH=CONFIG]6539[/ATTACH] I have not personally done any experiments with this though so I can not contribute any useful information on it. It looks like something I may try in the future. I am still interested in how Watson was able to get 1800 volts per coil on each event without a make and break or spark.

Doug

Hi Doug,
I am a bit spoiled with my Prusa printer, it is just a flawless machine when it comes to consistent prints. It has self alignment which is huge. I came to the 3d Print game later than most so by the time I purchased one they had really worked out a lot of the issues from earlier machines.

So how do I get good prints besides the machine? Two things I highly recommend are PETG filament and Ultem film for the bed. The filament has very very low shrinkage so it does not want to curl and when designing things you only have to add .2 to .3 mm to account for shrink. What I mean is say I want a hole to be 5mm, I design it at 5.2mm and a bolt or whatever will fit perfect.

The Ultem film is really awesome stuff! I replaced my original one with 10mil because I tore it when I didn't know what I was doing but the 10mil one is very rugged. I do not have to prep the surface with anything at all, no tape or glue etc. I clean it with some window spray while it is heating up and that is it. Prints stick like a glove while they are printing and if you let it cool down afterwards you can usually just pull that part right off without a spatula but not always. In any case parts are really easy to get off.

Here is a link to this magic bed surface, I don't know if you would want to try it on your printer but I swear by this stuff. Thisd is where I purchased mine from, you have to specify which side you want adhesive on, slick or matte. Very good product.

http://catalog.cshyde.com/viewitems/...rylic-adhesive

[BobZilla]

Great video Bob
Also really lovin your 3d builds, you do a great job explaining things.

Thanks Brian, I think you posted while I was replying to doug or I would have answered you in the same post. I have some neat stuff in the works that I have not shown the group yet.

[min2oly]

Hi RS,
I'm interested in your Mosfet Back Popping the Primary battery while disconnecting the Drive circuit......
can you post?

Doug, I already posted on UR vid but, beautiful work! Now on coil shorting, I never used a mosfet so am interested in testing it out. One of the best ckts I ever used for coil shorting was the... wait for it... SSG -

Yes, the SSG - John Bedini's simplified school girl ckt.
all you have to do is replace the primary with a cap, the cap will charge via transistor (internal diode) and aid in producing more energy than if you just short the coil by itself. you also have to perform a miracle separation of your coil - say what??? kidding, kind of...
you need a separate trigger coil..... Kind of complicated Patrick, can you make a vid? Well funny you ask:
https://youtu.be/0leZLxHgST0
My son discovered this messing around with my stuff!
first vid showing speed under load using similar method:
https://youtu.be/e-yWi3VApbk
Kind Regards - Patrick

[Faraday88]

Doug,

Watson was not doing the Coil Shorting technique. on his machine. The magnets / coils just generated a very High Voltage that filled a cap, that was then Dumped into the Primary Battery, while the drive motor is off, (called Back Popping) using a DPDT relay, to switch between the 2 states
Power Motor / Dump Cap. The duty cycle is a very short duration pulse for the cap dump, and rest of the time is Power Motor...

Coil Shorting came much, much later, when Kone Head (Doug Kronzen) introduced the technique.

There is no reason that you can't do coil shorting on your genny coils if you want......
let me know if you need a coil shorting circuit, and I will show you one with Mosfet Back Popping the Primary battery while disconnecting the Drive circuit......

Absolutely... the need for a DPDT relay is greatly emphasized for this topology of the dump....I feel this method is the same way as in Bedini's Patent 'Pulse Charging a Battery and driving other devices with a pulse'' and so also in the Gray Motor inthe part where the Capacitor is Pulsed discharge into the ''Inductive-Load''
Most experimenters here are familiar with the Genny coil used in the SSG... even 1000 turns of multi-filar coil spool produces Voltage in the range of few 10s of volts...
RS pointed out correctly...the key is to produce these Radiant High-Voltages...
Rgds,
Faraday88.

[RS_]

Patrick,
I don't want to hijack this thread, but i don't know how to start a new one for this Schematic....
any pointers on how to make a new one....?

[RS_]

figured it out... thanks

[wrtner]

I am building a basic SG and the recommended magnets, C8, 2" x 1" x 0.5 are expensive. Will I get sufficient results from ceramic, C8, round 1" dia x 0.3" which cost a quarter of the price?

[DMANN]

I am building a basic SG and the recommended magnets, C8, 2" x 1" x 0.5 are expensive. Will I get sufficient results from ceramic, C8, round 1" dia x 0.3" which cost a quarter of the price?

These are the magnets that I used for this project: https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piec...cks-98406.html They only have a 3lb pull force. They are adequate enough to activate the transistor via the trigger coil. I'm not sure if they are C8, but they are only 99 cent right now for a 2-pack. They are easily sourced as long as you have a HF in your area.

I've used circle ceramics before. They worked. I don't think that it matters too much what the shape of the magnet is that you use. The only one that you may have trouble with is a ring magnet when using a trigger coil. The abrupt nsn or sns that you get with a ring magnet is where the trouble comes from.

[Gary Hammond]

These are the magnets that I used for this project: https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piec...cks-98406.html They only have a 3lb pull force. They are adequate enough to activate the transistor via the trigger coil. I'm not sure if they are C8, but they are only 99 cent right now for a 2-pack. They are easily sourced as long as you have a HF in your area.

I've used circle ceramics before. They worked. I don't think that it matters too much what the shape of the magnet is that you use. The only one that you may have trouble with is a ring magnet when using a trigger coil. The abrupt nsn or sns that you get with a ring magnet is where the trouble comes from.

Here's where I get mine. Best price I've found and very fast shipping. http://www.magnet4less.com/product_i...roducts_id=255

[wrtner]

Here's where I get mine. Best price I've found and very fast shipping. http://www.magnet4less.com/product_i...roducts_id=255

They look very good. Their web site is a nightmare if you live outside the US (or Puerto Rico, Canada or Mexico). I have emailed them and wait in anticipation. Thanks.

[Faraday88]

These are the magnets that I used for this project: https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piec...cks-98406.html They only have a 3lb pull force. They are adequate enough to activate the transistor via the trigger coil. I'm not sure if they are C8, but they are only 99 cent right now for a 2-pack. They are easily sourced as long as you have a HF in your area.

I've used circle ceramics before. They worked. I don't think that it matters too much what the shape of the magnet is that you use. The only one that you may have trouble with is a ring magnet when using a trigger coil. The abrupt nsn or sns that you get with a ring magnet is where the trouble comes from.

Hi DMANN,
The face of a Magnet is where the lines of force are normal to its surface. in a ring magnet the magnetization is done diameterically to the ring geometry..hence if one assume to use the ring magnet same a flat round magnet.it would behave like what you said..NSN or SNS.
Rgds,
Faraday88.

[wrtner]

When compiling the core out of 1.6mm dia R45 welding rods, copper coated, is it a good idea to dip them in paint or varnish to reduce eddy currents?