new bike wheel runs

[greghaa]

I had to use 3 of them tied together. Then when I placed the magnets, I had to be sure where the 3 tie together are between magnets and can be held down so as to not hit the coil.

They are 3 ft, (914 mm) and I got them from Northern Tool. With the 1550's that you have you could use 2 of them. That should work.

Here are some 5 footers

http://www.nelcoproducts.com/newsDet...5#.UD5id9aPUsI

[John_Koorn]

John K

Attached are some pics. This one is of the wheel and the magnets. 18 magnets on a 24" wheel. I used
large tie wraps to go around the wheel and then smaller ones to tighten it down to keep the magnets in place.
This has worked well. I didn't want to attach the magnets permanently.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]565[/ATTACH]

This is the gap between the coil and the magnets. Not the greatest pic but shows about 1/4" maybe 3/8".

[ATTACH=CONFIG]568[/ATTACH]

This is the circuit. I got the leads about as short as I can. It is in a breadboard. I do have another board
I plan to transfer the circuit to and solder everything. It is just easier to make adjustments this way without soldering all the time.
Also, I am using that big 10W resistor, there is another out of the pic that is attached. I am at about 380 ohms right now.
200 ma and 190 RPM's.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]567[/ATTACH]

And the batteries I am using. The garden battery is the primary while the other is a 5ah SLA. Once I am solid I am going to solder
the connections and make better battery attachments. The black wire is 14ga stranded. The white wire is 18 ga solid.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]566[/ATTACH]

Again, Thanks to everyone for all the help.

Mr. Bedini, we are all in your debt.

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greghaa, if it were me the first thing I would is solder everything together. I've never had good results with a bread board. At least use all those spare terminals on that block to screw things together. Also, please check the magnets on the wheel are north poles out, not south poles.

John K.

[Carlos Galvis]

In that second photo, where do you have the probe connected? I have seen mine look like that but only when the probe is connected but not the grounding clip.

I don't really know how to connect the oscilloscope properly, this pulses i got by hooking one probe on the collector, both pics are the same, no ground probe... how should it be connected?
cheers

carlos

[blackchisel97]

Hi Carlos.
Ground of the probe should go to the negative of the input which is also emitter of the transistor.

Vtech

[greghaa]

greghaa, if it were me the first thing I would is solder everything together. I've never had good results with a bread board. At least use all those spare terminals on that block to screw things together. Also, please check the magnets on the wheel are north poles out, not south poles.

John K.

I have a proper perf board so I will solder the circuit up. As for the magnets, I have checked and double checked many times. I am sure
they are all north out. I will check again however. Can never be too sure.

Thanks for the input

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[Carlos Galvis]

Thanks for the reply Vtech, so the negative goes on the emitter and the other one goes to the collector?

carlos

[blackchisel97]

That's correct. In most cases when using a scope its ground goes to ground of the device and the probe can be used to check any desired spot eg. base - for triggering impulse, collector - for switching properties, output of multivibrators - to measure the frequency and amplitude of signals etc.

Vtech

[Carlos Galvis]

hi vtec... i took a new reading with the probes right, the shape is similar, and it also has a wobble, take a look

ssg pulse shape - YouTube

[greghaa]

I took my wheel and rebuilt the circuit. First I tried to solder everything onto a 2n3055A. That worked pretty good, but I couldn't get the draw down to where it was before. I always had the draw
down around 190-210 ma. So I rebuilt it again using an ML21194 and I screwed everything on the the terminal screws I have for the coil. Still I am unable to get the current draw down. The best I can get is 300 ma. at about 180 RPM's. I started moving the coil closer and farther away with very little change in terms of draw.

Am I missing something about current draw? With this bike wheel I have always seen it around 200ma like I said. Now it is much higher. Does anyone have any input as to what I can check or possibly tweak to get that number lower?

Also, in the video attached, you can see how the wave kinda dances up and down. You can sort of see it. Does anyone know why that happens?

http://184.73.219.29/music/video.3gp

Thanks

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[John_Koorn]

greghaa,

I can't open the video, maybe because I'm on an iPad. Can you upload it to YouTube?

John K.

[greghaa]

I will do that. It's from my cell phone so the quality isn't that great but I think you can see it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcOtO...ature=youtu.be

[John_Koorn]

greghaa, I think you need to increase the base resistance a little more. Do that and see if the wheel speeds up.

John K.