Maximum coil size?

[RS_]

Hi JB, Brent and Les,

I have had the comparator Cap dump circuit working just fine since last fall. Jack & Jeremy studied it extensively in their learning process, and we used it with a fig 33 self oscillator running from the Copper Ma Crystal battery's, to charge motorcycle battery's.......

I did not have a 741 opamp to use, so I used a low power JSC7031 opamp I had on hand. I have worked with a LOT of opamp circuits in the past, so I did make a cupple of miner changes to adapt it. I swapped the + and - inputs of the op amp in the circuit to get it to trigger in reverse, and made the connection to the opto LED a Pull up active, vs the pull down active that JB showed, because I had one of my cap pulser PCB's already wired to work that way.

I have a new version now running using a micro power comparator MAX931, that I will use to trigger a cap pulse charger and Back popper combo built on a cap pulser PCB, that will be for the mini window motor kit from the 2011 conference. I am having a long shaft collar made for the inside of the rotor, which I will epoxy into 1/2 of the rotor assembly then have a set screw to the shaft, so that the rotor cant turn on the shaft. and then reassemble the rotor and sides. Then I will wind 3 coils onto the assembly in the regular 3 phase pattern as shown on JB's Lab notes...... once this is built and running I will be testing various Loads on it, and make a video to post.......

[LesK]

Faraday88,
All the information is on the energetics forum, Ferris Wheel site. Also if you listen you will hear the same thing with an SSG. The new six coil makes the sound in the battery as well. These machines are very quiet if the rotors are balanced properly.

RS,
sounds like yours is set up a lot like mine. Just that at this point I would like JB to finish those up on PCB's so we can just purchase his. I am looking very forward to the Tesla Switch that John k Was showing. I am hoping to get one suited to my six coil machine.

Les

[RS_]

Brent,

Another problem I see with your circuit Sch, is that JB has the collectors of the opto tranny and the BD243C, hooked to the 15V power point that feeds the 741, and not to the Source of the Mosfets. this is why your not dumping good, the gates on the mosfets are not being pulled up to 15V, to fully turn them on....

Mosfets need this collector hook up to 15V, where Big transistors will work with the collectors hooked like you have it shown.....

[John_Bedini]

Brent,
If RS and everbody has it working then what is the COP of the machine ?.

[BrentA929]

Dump

John B,

I am really torn on how to respond to your reply...

Can my circuit work as good as yours with some modifications?


Brent

@ Brent, your circuit is not what mine is and does not operate like mine. So what was copied has been adjusted to perform to text book theory on comparators. If the circuit was built to what I have then you should be dumping 12.43 joule's 10 times a second. The Ferris wheel was showing that with the meters if everybody would have watched that. I got up on stage and said what that amounted to. Something is eating your energy up. What that means is the capacitor is not touched and is just a wiggle to my machine. Everybody including RS tried to draw that circuit. I did say it is a stair step up with the machine I even showed that on the scope and if anybody was looking it was a one wire system discharge with that capacitor and inductor. This follows Tom Bearden's capacitor discharge theory. If the SG does not charge the batteries as we have shown in the preview then something is very wrong. You just can not just wind wires without calculating the inductor with the branches to feed the cap. And you only seen 2 to 3 amps on a very slow meter and a small machine, but that is where I had it adjusted I could have achieved much more like 200 amps, The other thing is digital meters can not read what is going on in the primary circuit, you are dealing with impulses of voltages and not Back EMF, I explained on stage back EMF is always lower then the battery and I said why. The SG is not a text book motor as everybody calls it, it's an Energizer, self rotating. I do not hide anything I always tell you everything when I'm explaining it. So I guess I speak a different language here.

[BrentA929]

RS,

Thanks for your help...

Are you seeing dumps comparable to JB's?


Thanks, Brent

Hi JB, Brent and Les,

I have had the comparator Cap dump circuit working just fine since last fall. Jack & Jeremy studied it extensively in their learning process, and we used it with a fig 33 self oscillator running from the Copper Ma Crystal battery's, to charge motorcycle battery's.......

I did not have a 741 opamp to use, so I used a low power JSC7031 opamp I had on hand. I have worked with a LOT of opamp circuits in the past, so I did make a cupple of miner changes to adapt it. I swapped the + and - inputs of the op amp in the circuit to get it to trigger in reverse, and made the connection to the opto LED a Pull up active, vs the pull down active that JB showed, because I had one of my cap pulser PCB's already wired to work that way.

I have a new version now running using a micro power comparator MAX931, that I will use to trigger a cap pulse charger and Back popper combo built on a cap pulser PCB, that will be for the mini window motor kit from the 2011 conference. I am having a long shaft collar made for the inside of the rotor, which I will epoxy into 1/2 of the rotor assembly then have a set screw to the shaft, so that the rotor cant turn on the shaft. and then reassemble the rotor and sides. Then I will wind 3 coils onto the assembly in the regular 3 phase pattern as shown on JB's Lab notes...... once this is built and running I will be testing various Loads on it, and make a video to post.......

[BrentA929]

RS,

I tried that correction and that helps! It dumps at about 3/4 amp now!


Thanks, Brent

Brent,

Another problem I see with your circuit Sch, is that JB has the collectors of the opto tranny and the BD243C, hooked to the 15V power point that feeds the 741, and not to the Source of the Mosfets. this is why your not dumping good, the gates on the mosfets are not being pulled up to 15V, to fully turn them on....

Mosfets need this collector hook up to 15V, where Big transistors will work with the collectors hooked like you have it shown.....

[BrentA929]

WHAT?

Oh, I get it. Everyone else has it working so what is my problem? Thanks for your help!

Brent,
If RS and everbody has it working then what is the COP of the machine ?.

[RS_]

Brent,

I have not measured how many amps this one pulses, but it is set to trigger at 26V, and it sharply dumps the 1000uF cap all the way down to the charging battery voltage, then stair step fills back up and triggers again

When the 2n4401 based fig 33 oscillator is running at 4 - 5V, it triggers the dump about once a sec, when the osc is running at 12V, it dumps 4 times a sec........

when i get it all running on the mini window motor, I will adjust the cap value so that it pulses once a sec for that setup

[min2oly]

WHAT?

Oh, I get it. Everyone else has it working so what is my problem? Thanks for your help!

Brent - all,
Let's take a deep breath :-) I don't think JB would talk like this.
from what I read below, we are all taking like we know how to do it - so then, what is the cop of our machines...

John B. I feel this is all like breathing to you - muscle reflex. For us it's like climbing Mt Everest, and we do not have our back packs correctly packed and at times lack the mind-set. Sometimes we type something and fall of the trail for a bit - LOL. Thank you for your continued patience. We are all still listening and learning.
Kind regards,
Patrick

[BrentA929]

Build it like I do...

Minoly and all,

I meant no disrespect...

Just get so frustrated with myself some times. I want so badly to be able to duplicate JB's work and do everything within my abilities to "build it like he does." I realize, I still have a lot to learn!!!

Sorry, if my previous post came across the wrong way. I know JB is trying to help and I appreciate all that he does!




Thanks, Brent

[vallentin]

Frustration

Maybe this will help.
Additional Information On The Final Secret of Free Energy, Update 15 February 1994, © 1994 by T.E. Bearden

[John_Bedini]

@ All,
I'm dumping a total 60000Uf at about 10 time a second. As I have said the capacitor never discharges it just looks like a wiggle to my machine. Comparators are not what they seem to be in some cases. The original machine used contacts and it was very important with the time to keep the capacitor thinking it was full. With this quick impulse the battery will raise to the level and stop at 16 Volts as that is all the battery can take for charge, so the pulse must be very sharp. The SG machine I have tried to make it easy by adding the diode directly to the secondary battery, to save the extra circuits. If you can not get a 1 to 1 charge then something is very wrong with the circuit. your curve must look like mine or you need to start over with the machine, it looks easy but it's not. The window where this machine works is very narrow. People think they can just look at something and know what it is, that may not be the case. The Ferris Wheel is an example of that 1.5 amps in and constant in the primary, but the discharge is far more in each dump of the capacitor. If you were watching you could see the discharge rate, if you were watching. The machine never seen the dump as it just looked like the capacitor was just floating at constant rate. I opened the box so you could see inside and it still did not help. You must think different with impulse technology as it does not work the way you think about it, you have never been taught that in electronics and it took me many years to understand how it actually worked before I could apply it to a mechanical machine. I would term it a Radiant current that flows around the coil and wires, the capacitor is just a collector for that. Study Teslas patents and when you get that to work you will see what it is, it is not a meaningless patent.

[John_Bedini]

@all The BIKE Wheel Energizer,
This should be hopping here to understand what is going on, Start over with a simple SG most of you already have the simple setup. Take 7 number 20 wires and a 23 trigger wire stretch them out for 130 feet twist the wires clockwise and the spacing should be 3/4 of an inch on the twist, and then wind the wires clockwise on the spool, take 21 magnets north pole facing out around the wheel. make the circuit as I say, do not alter anything because you know better. The spacing on the wheel to the coil should be 3/8 of an inch gap. Do this simple at first as an SG use the discharge circuit second until the capacitor is at 31 volts, clip leads will work but you will lose current in the dump voltage. mount the cap as close to the circuit board as you can keeping losses to minimum. Every wire is an inductor with this current. The SG circuit is, 470 ohms on each base with a 12 ohm resistor in place of the light bulb in the circuit, use the MJL21194 transistor, do not replace it, use 1N4007 diodes . Again, "do not change anything" Run the machine with garden batteries. Take one amp hour out of the secondary battery, then run the machine and watch the time it takes to put it back, it should only take hour to do that, if not you have crap batteries at both ends. To smooth the primary current use a 16000 Uf cap at the input.
@Vallentin,
Nothing to slam your head agents the wall for, the circuit is straight forward in how it is working, On the SG the Ramp is the number of magnets around the wheel, and the fets are opto coupled, it should not be necessary to pull them up to the supply voltage the important thing is turning them off and the correct series resistor in the gates, the drivers should be connected to the collectors and the potential should give the correct voltage. Matching everything is very important, the same for the SG.

[RS_]

JB,

You always do things for a reason, and say don't change things...................... And it seams that I promptly changed it.

I had the circuit working with the polarity you show, using a power supply to set the trigger points vs filling a cap. I only changed the polarity of the op amp inputs as a convenience, so that i would not have to heat up the soldering iron and remove a LED resister and re solder it in a different hole, and then change all the jumpers to match a pull down active output from the op amp on the cap pulser PCB I wanted to use for that first test... shear laziness i guess.................

At the time I wandered why you designed it with the reference diode on the + input and trigger input on the - input, but knew from experience, that it would trigger ether way, but maybe there is something special about that + polarity configuration that I don't know about........

So you stated that it does more than what it looks like on the surface, as is very true with most of the things you show us.

So Monday after your post, I had to try it like you show it, I spent the late afternoon rewiring the the fig 33 osc / pulser PCB to be a pull down active opto LED, and re wired the MAX931 Polarity, so that the built in reference diode is on the + input and the voltage divider network is on the - input, and no Hysteresis feed back, just like you showed the 741 setup

The circuit was close enough with the divider resistor setting i was using, to crank right up and pulse. it was pulsing at about 2 times a sec and had a Very Short on time, so that the cap was not discharging down to the charging battery voltage, and was floating around 35V, with about a 5V discharge

Standing at 12.19V, the charging battery came up 8 hundreds V pretty quick. So i adjusted the trigger point, and it got lot faster pulsing to about 45Hz, and lower in voltage to 18V peak with about 3 V discharge, and the charging battery jumped up a tenth V and was gaining 2 hundreds every sec or so, till it got up to 12.9V, where it slowed down some, and about a hour later it was at 13.33V and still climbing...... about an hour after that it was at 13.76V, but the drive battery had gotten down to 12V, so i stopped it, and put the drive battery on the R-Charge universal charger, to finish the test with a fresh charged drive battery. This is very good results compared to what it was doing, and I thought that it was doing pretty good then.....

this Cap floating and not discharging thing is new to me, you told me a LONG time ago with the pwm timers circuits, that you were shooting for a on time pulse width just wide enough that from 23V +/-, it discharged down to the charging battery voltage, or a couple volts over that, with a given size cap. This is what i have always been shooting for in the various cap pulse chargers i built, so this is what i was trying to do with the comparator, with the other polarity, and with Hysteresis feed back, and it does that quite well.......

I have seen 556 PWM timer and Micro processors with the on duration set so narrow, that the Cap charge / discharge signal looked like that, and not fully discharge the cap down to the charging battery voltage, and would float at a higher V, but they did not charge the battery's that fast, and i did not think that signal is what you were after any way.......

I have seen pulse chargers that were over kill, for a small Ah battery, charge that fast, but never any thing that was sized to run from that battery's C20 Ah rating, or smaller, charge that fast

i understand the tesla potential shuttle patents, so that with the very sharp short comparator on time, just the potential is transferred, with very little current flow........ same thing with the SSG and out put diode, the Spike/Potential is transferred, with very little current flow.......

So please explain to us why this + polarity configuration does not conform to a text book comparator that is configured in ether polarity.........

Thanks again for every thing you teach us..........