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Branch's SSG Build

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  • #61
    Now that I've got my free-spin time nailed down, I have a few questions before I continue:

    1. The beginner SG guide says to use R45 rods, however here on the forums it's always been R60. I also noticed that Teslagenx is selling coils with R60 rods. Is this a typo in the guide?

    2. Also, in the beginner SG guide, it's suggested to cut the coil wires once the coil is mounted so that they aren't sticking up everywhere around the circuit. However, a lot of emphasis is placed on making sure the wires are exactly 130' long. Doesn't this cut affect the over resistance of the coil?

    3. The lawn tractor batteries are recommend for use with the JB 8-filar build. I am building a 5-filar model, with the circuit from Teslagenx.com. Are those size batteries still recommended, or should I go smaller?

    Thanks for all the help everyone!

    Branch

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    • #62
      Just wanted to bump this up, and see if I could get a response. I know you guys are busy...or this may have been missed. Please see questions above...my circuit board should arrive this week so want to have this nailed down...

      Thanks!

      Branch

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      • #63
        Originally posted by Branch Gordon View Post
        Now that I've got my free-spin time nailed down, I have a few questions before I continue:

        1. The beginner SG guide says to use R45 rods, however here on the forums it's always been R60. I also noticed that Teslagenx is selling coils with R60 rods. Is this a typo in the guide?

        2. Also, in the beginner SG guide, it's suggested to cut the coil wires once the coil is mounted so that they aren't sticking up everywhere around the circuit. However, a lot of emphasis is placed on making sure the wires are exactly 130' long. Doesn't this cut affect the over resistance of the coil?

        3. The lawn tractor batteries are recommend for use with the JB 8-filar build. I am building a 5-filar model, with the circuit from Teslagenx.com. Are those size batteries still recommended, or should I go smaller?

        Thanks for all the help everyone!

        Branch
        1- they are not much different i have run both with no difference in charging, its more about the cores magnetic properties than the R number
        2- not in the amount you are cutting cut them all the same .0001 ohms is not going to affect things
        3- the size batteries you have is fine. I run 14 AH worth of batts on mine.

        Tom C


        experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

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        • #64
          Excellent....thx so much Tom.

          Originally posted by Tom C View Post
          1- they are not much different i have run both with no difference in charging, its more about the cores magnetic properties than the R number
          2- not in the amount you are cutting cut them all the same .0001 ohms is not going to affect things
          3- the size batteries you have is fine. I run 14 AH worth of batts on mine.

          Tom C

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          • #65
            Hey everyone! My build is nearing completion. Here's a video update!

            www.youtube.com/watch?v=58GvJZqQ3tY

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            • #66
              Update: I've changed the primary and charge battery wires to 12GA wire, and soldered ring terminals so I can screw them onto the battery posts instead of using alligator clips.

              Click image for larger version

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              • #67
                I've started my 1st test run! Some specs:

                Frame: Solid oak w/ Brass screws
                Wheel: 24" Aluminum. 9:30 free spin time using ceramic bearings.
                Circuit: 4 transistor Teslagenx board
                Coil: 4 power, 1 trigger. From Teslagenx
                Wire to batteries: 12GA with ring terminals

                Input draw: 330mA
                Output: 170mA
                RPM's: Waiting on reflective tape for tachometer

                Batteries: Interstate Lawn & Garden type batteries from True Value

                Click image for larger version

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                • #68
                  My plan is to discharge the primary battery down to 12V and then stop each test run. If I have the SSG built and tuned correctly, should it charge the battery up to 15.x volts on the 1st test run, or does it take time to condition to taking the charge?

                  If it takes time, should I recharge the primary, and continue to charge the charging battery until it's full? Or just run a discharge cycle and start over at 12V again?

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                  • #69
                    Originally posted by Branch Gordon View Post
                    My plan is to discharge the primary battery down to 12V and then stop each test run. If I have the SSG built and tuned correctly, should it charge the battery up to 15.x volts on the 1st test run, or does it take time to condition to taking the charge?

                    If it takes time, should I recharge the primary, and continue to charge the charging battery until it's full? Or just run a discharge cycle and start over at 12V again?
                    fully charge your primary battery and your charging battery. do a discharge run of both on the CBA to give you a baseline. then fully charge your primary. start your runs with your charge battery. you may need to recharge your primary battery to complete a charge cycle of your charging battery for the first few runs. tune your SG so that the current draw from the primary is at or above C20 you will get to the point where the run battery charges faster than the primary depletes. discharge your battery immediately after you charge it dso not let it rest. Peter and Jon noticed the gains only when running the batteries in this manner. Tom C


                    experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

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                    • #70
                      Thanks Tom. So does the tuning procedure of finding the lowest amp draw/highest rpm not apply anymore?

                      I'm guessing C20 for these batteries is around 650mA...

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                      • #71
                        Originally posted by Branch Gordon View Post
                        Thanks Tom. So does the tuning procedure of finding the lowest amp draw/highest rpm not apply anymore?

                        I'm guessing C20 for these batteries is around 650mA...
                        it still applies that is how you find your tuning points non linear increases in RPM.

                        Tom C


                        experimental Kits, chargers and solar trackers

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                        • #72
                          Right...but in the last post you said to tune to C20 or higher, which isn't necessarily the spot that has the lowest amp draw to RPM speed.

                          So should I tune to C20 or higher....or to the points that have non-linear increases in RPM?

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                          • #73
                            Decided to stop my test run and install a new steel rim. 24" steel, ceramic bearings, tri-flow.

                            Free spin time of 13:15!!

                            So I'm glad I made the change...

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                            • #74
                              Ran through all the resistances in increments of 10 ohms and documented RPM's in order to find the sweet spot. Looks like I need a resistance close to 110 ohms.

                              Does this look correct to everyone?

                              Click image for larger version

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                              • #75
                                I looked up the lawn & garden batteries I am using that I got from True Value. Looks like they are rated at 20AH.

                                Interstate SP-35 Lawn & Garden Battery 300 CCA

                                That still gonna be ok?

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