Your exactly right... But I suspect manufacturing processes have gotten worse and not better over the years and when it comes to batteries you get what you pay for... For the most part.
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If you are going for all you can get out and or put into your batteries with the SSG configuration...
I would also recommend a three battery system if charging with the SG. One battery for the SG primary, one for charge on the SG back end and one being charged or topped up with the 2A12. The 2A12 can constantly be charging your off machine, third battery while you are using the other two with your SG. As the primary drops to 12.2 volts or so you can simply put it on the SG back end or on the 2A12 to get recharged without any SG down time.
You will want to continuously cycle these three batteries only on your SG and 2A12 that way you will get the quickest charge times possible and keep all the batteries in the band Peter L. spoke of when testing the golf cart every morning during the latter weekdays at John shop.
I think Tom C stated to use a fully charged battery as soon as it is disconnected from the charger to have maximum load capacity time. I also have found this to be true and you will also want to do the same when it comes to charging your spent battery. Do these things and you will see maximum gains in battery capacity and shortened charge times.
I have 10 Walmart 18ah lawn and garden batteries, purchased two years ago and they pretty much all have quite different capacities even though they all will charge to 16.3 plus volts every time.
I have also found that if you simply charge one of these batteries to 15.3 volts and cut it off from charging you will see a loss of amp hours each time as well, as this is not enough time to fully take a charge. These particular batteries need to be taken at least to 16 plus volts to get a full and complete charge.
The 2A12 will also hover around the 15.3 volt mark while flashing mostly a solid red led (which is charging) with a flash of green led (float). This condition indicates that your battery is not quite fully charged... You will notice the more time the 2A12 is left on the battery the more solid the green led will become and the charging pulses will lessen as more of a green Led vs the red led is displayed. This demonstrates that just because you take a battery to 15.3 volts does not mean it is fully charged by any means.
Hope you do not mind the rambling on...
Dave
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Thanks Dave...that is all great info.
I have seen in other threads that John recommends not charging all the way to 16V because it's hard on the battery. I think it was mentioned on DVD33 as well if I remember correctly?
Is this something you disagree with? If so, why?
Originally posted by Dave Wing View PostIf you are going for all you can get out and or put into your batteries with the SSG configuration...
I would also recommend a three battery system if charging with the SG. One battery for the SG primary, one for charge on the SG back end and one being charged or topped up with the 2A12. The 2A12 can constantly be charging your off machine, third battery while you are using the other two with your SG. As the primary drops to 12.2 volts or so you can simply put it on the SG back end or on the 2A12 to get recharged without any SG down time.
You will want to continuously cycle these three batteries only on your SG and 2A12 that way you will get the quickest charge times possible and keep all the batteries in the band Peter L. spoke of when testing the golf cart every morning during the latter weekdays at John shop.
I think Tom C stated to use a fully charged battery as soon as it is disconnected from the charger to have maximum load capacity time. I also have found this to be true and you will also want to do the same when it comes to charging your spent battery. Do these things and you will see maximum gains in battery capacity and shortened charge times.
I have 10 Walmart 18ah lawn and garden batteries, purchased two years ago and they pretty much all have quite different capacities even though they all will charge to 16.3 plus volts every time.
I have also found that if you simply charge one of these batteries to 15.3 volts and cut it off from charging you will see a loss of amp hours each time as well, as this is not enough time to fully take a charge. These particular batteries need to be taken at least to 16 plus volts to get a full and complete charge.
The 2A12 will also hover around the 15.3 volt mark while flashing mostly a solid red led (which is charging) with a flash of green led (float). This condition indicates that your battery is not quite fully charged... You will notice the more time the 2A12 is left on the battery the more solid the green led will become and the charging pulses will lessen as more of a green Led vs the red led is displayed. This demonstrates that just because you take a battery to 15.3 volts does not mean it is fully charged by any means.
Hope you do not mind the rambling on...
Dave
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I think it is the way one looks at charging a battery.
If you leave the battery to charge for many hours, days and or weeks at a voltage of 16 plus volts at a high enough amperage that introduces heat into the battery, it for sure can be harmful to your charge battery, if not prevented or corrected. I have seen some batteries lose some of their active plate material into the electrolyte solution because of excessive heat abuse from over charging for extended periods of time. They are never the same afterwords.
If you closely monitor the charging and do not let the battery heat up in the slightest way you will not have any problems when getting to this voltage. Some people do not monitor their batteries while charging and therefore can easily run into the battery problems spoken of above.
Heat from direct over charging is a major reason for premature battery failures. If there is something I am missing, someone please enlighten me.
Thanks,
DaveLast edited by Dave Wing; 10-16-2013, 06:03 PM.
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I have recorded the charge curve with this Schumacher charger. Here is a photo.
I stopped it before it went to maintenance mode...but it will stay at that peak voltage for a really long time...just spiking up and down like that...and then drop to 13.8V and do the same thing.
2A12 on the way....but does this look like a normal charge curve to everyone?
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So...more questions! In DVD 33, John states that he has two fans on his bike wheel, to keep it at the RPM that he wants. He doesn't state why however. From what I understand you want to fastest RPM for the lowest amp draw...and that you CAN load down the wheel and utilize that mechanical energy. But what is the benefit of just loading it down to keep it at a certain RPM? It seems like John is using it as an additional piece to the tuning puzzle.
I myself have noticed when using an AM radio to listen for the single "blips" coming from the coil, that once I zero in on them and they become clear...after a couple of minutes I lose them. I have to raise the resistance slightly and then they come back...and then I lose them again. This process repeats every couple of minutes of raising the resistance until I am out of the "sweet spot". It's as if the wheel rotation and resistance never quite match up like they should.
Does this make sense to anyone?
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Originally posted by Branch Gordon View PostThank you min2oly. I understand that...but that's a different mode of operation. That is the pulsed mode that John describes on the DVD. I am inquiring specifically about mode #2, or forced current mode.
you still get the spikes and faster current charge - scope it out and see.
What of the back charge to the primary???
I guess there are some +'s and -'s w/ every mod, yes.
I've been using it on and off for more than a couple of years now - no complaints - no dead batteries.
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Right...but the question I'm asking is why? Why you generator mode with the cap pulse? You say you have off and on...for what purpose?
The slow time charge, and pulse mode seem to be much more useful mods, in that you still get at least 1:1 charging, and the benefit of battery rejuvenation.
Originally posted by min2oly View PostGenerator mode is just that - generator.
you still get the spikes and faster current charge - scope it out and see.
What of the back charge to the primary???
I guess there are some +'s and -'s w/ every mod, yes.
I've been using it on and off for more than a couple of years now - no complaints - no dead batteries.
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Originally posted by Branch Gordon View PostRight...but the question I'm asking is why? Why you generator mode with the cap pulse? You say you have off and on...for what purpose?
The slow time charge, and pulse mode seem to be much more useful mods, in that you still get at least 1:1 charging, and the benefit of battery rejuvenation.
I guess I'm not able to help...
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Well that is a confusing response haha. If you have used forced current mode of the SG in the past, it should be easy to answer why. All I am asking is what the practical applications are for running in that mode.
I see a benefit from modes 1 and 3, but mode 2 I dont see the point.
Originally posted by min2oly View PostI guess I'm not able to help...
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Originally posted by Branch Gordon View PostWell that is a confusing response haha. If you have used forced current mode of the SG in the past, it should be easy to answer why.
Hey Branch
I thought I made a simple sincere response.
I'm not able to help.
code for
I don't have the ability to help.
I don't think I can help.
not sure how much more plain I can make that - haha
let us know how it goes for you if you choose to try it.
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Well...ok haha.
Thx for your attempt. Of course I will keep everyone informed on my progress.
Sorry if I have annoyed. Just trying to learn.
Originally posted by min2oly View Post"if"
Hey Branch
I thought I made a simple sincere response.
I'm not able to help.
code for
I don't have the ability to help.
I don't think I can help.
not sure how much more plain I can make that - haha
let us know how it goes for you if you choose to try it.
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