Branch's SSG Build

[Branch Gordon]

Hey Forrest-

That's where I am having difficulty following. I have a couple of the same bearings that are in my wheel lying around, so I did what you said on them and what happens is that once that plastic spacer is taken out...the bearings don't stay an equal distance away from each other. They all bunch up on one side, or there will be a couple here and the rest over there.

Earlier in this thread, Tom had said not to remove the plastic spacers... So there is some contradiction here that I would like to clear up before I move forward.

I appreciate your responses.

Hi Branch.

Yes my bearings were sealed at one time. I tore them apart and ditched the plastic seals. I disassembled all of the bearing parts and degreased everything. The only thing left is the inner race, the outer race, and the ball bearings. Steel ones!

Bud

[Tom C]

you got it right branch dont remove the cage from the bearings. roller bearings are not the same as cup and cone bearings found in a bike rim normally.

Tom C

[Prinsloo]

my 2 cents worth

Hi Branch

my 2 cents worth,

I have a similar wheel than the one you are trying to make work, mine 8 spokes (see attached) form an ex-wheel chair. Problem I see using these wheels is the many number of flat surfaces that cause a tremendous amount of drag, take it and give it a good spin and feel the air coming off the sides and immediately the slowdown (like some is pulling a handbrake on the wheel, right ?), slowing down once the air turbulence from the sides subsides the wheel seam not to want to stop and comes slowly to a halt. Try it with the bicycle wheel almost no air coming off the spokes, and come to a halt evenly.

Your wheel looking at the photo on (their web site), has even more and bigger flat surfaces than mine does, it would not mater even if you run it on magnetic suspended bearings you will not get a big free run time wise on it, if you leave it as it is.

We will need to modify these wheels with side covers on both sides like JB did on his 10 coiler, this will eliminate the air drag to a point. ( Some serious cyclists bicycle are modified that way)

The question is it worth all the trouble or should we just use/get a new bicycle wheel, maybe an aluminium alloy one, seeing we are going for broke anyhow.

Do as was said clean and wash the bearings, don't just squirt the oil in there, you need maybe 2 small drops in each bearing, run them in proper (couple of hours), wash them out again and see how much small pieces of steel comes out (you don't want them in there) , re-oil them 2 drops and run. If your not happy repeat wash them out and re-oil with either more oil or less oil you will know when you get the max speed!

I have find that to much oil ( 1 drop to much ) is the difference between 680 rpm and 1035 rpm on my rotor.

I'm still thinking if I must use those wheel chair wheels or not ! any takers !

If any body which to ad please do !

Is there anyone that had these wheels working without covering the sides with good results?

Theunis

[Branch Gordon]

Thanks for those tips Prinsloo. I am finally back at this build. I can definitely feel the wind coming off of it when I give it a good spin. I'll keep your suggestion in mind about adding some covers as I move forward.

Cheers!

Branch

Hi Branch

my 2 cents worth,

I have a similar wheel than the one you are trying to make work, mine 8 spokes (see attached) form an ex-wheel chair. Problem I see using these wheels is the many number of flat surfaces that cause a tremendous amount of drag, take it and give it a good spin and feel the air coming off the sides and immediately the slowdown (like some is pulling a handbrake on the wheel, right ?), slowing down once the air turbulence from the sides subsides the wheel seam not to want to stop and comes slowly to a halt. Try it with the bicycle wheel almost no air coming off the spokes, and come to a halt evenly.

Your wheel looking at the photo on (their web site), has even more and bigger flat surfaces than mine does, it would not mater even if you run it on magnetic suspended bearings you will not get a big free run time wise on it, if you leave it as it is.

We will need to modify these wheels with side covers on both sides like JB did on his 10 coiler, this will eliminate the air drag to a point. ( Some serious cyclists bicycle are modified that way)

The question is it worth all the trouble or should we just use/get a new bicycle wheel, maybe an aluminium alloy one, seeing we are going for broke anyhow.

Do as was said clean and wash the bearings, don't just squirt the oil in there, you need maybe 2 small drops in each bearing, run them in proper (couple of hours), wash them out again and see how much small pieces of steel comes out (you don't want them in there) , re-oil them 2 drops and run. If your not happy repeat wash them out and re-oil with either more oil or less oil you will know when you get the max speed!

I have find that to much oil ( 1 drop to much ) is the difference between 680 rpm and 1035 rpm on my rotor.

I'm still thinking if I must use those wheel chair wheels or not ! any takers !

If any body which to ad please do !

Is there anyone that had these wheels working without covering the sides with good results?

Theunis

[Branch Gordon]

I have started over with my build...am following the directions in the e-book exactly...and it's turning out great so far! My frame is MUCH sturdier than it was before.

I have used all brass screws. Solid oak. Skytuff Wheel with ceramic magnets, all superglued. I have some strapping tape on the way.

I made an adjustable base for the coil, as you can see in the photos. You can slide that piece up and down through the slots if you unscrew that screws a bit. Will be useful for getting the exact coil gap required.

Rolls of magnet wire are on the way, and I will be making an 8-filar coil next week. Will post pics of that when completed.

Cheers!

Branch

[John_Koorn]

Hey Branch, looking good! What's your free spin time like?

John K.

[Branch Gordon]

Hey John-

Thanks! It's fun to be back at it.

The wheel spin time is still the same as it used to be....stuck around 3:00. I'm going to try some of the suggestions in this thread...one being let it run for a couple weeks...break in the bearings. The other being the suggestion from Prinsloo regarding the spokes being huge and creating drag. I can feel the wind coming off this thing like a fan when I give it a good spin. It's already well balanced.

Any other suggestions are of course welcome.

Branch

Hey Branch, looking good! What's your free spin time like?

John K.

[Tom C]

branch,

for now just use some thick carboard for a cover. then you have to get your freespin time up.


Tom C

[Branch Gordon]

I'll give the cardboard a go. I have an idea on how to make it look nice.

Thx Tom.

branch,

for now just use some thick carboard for a cover. then you have to get your freespin time up.


Tom C

[Branch Gordon]

This looks like a possible solution for drag: Aero Disc Cover - AeroJacket - Wheelbuilder.com

[Branch Gordon]

I went back to my original wheel. 9 minute + spin time now!. I think the new frame being sturdier really helped.

Ceramic bearings. It still has a heavy spot on one side as you can see at the end of the video, so I think I can squeeze more out of it over time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TeGq1lqELPc

[Tom C]

I went back to my original wheel. 9 minute + spin time now!. I think the new frame being sturdier really helped.

Ceramic bearings. It still has a heavy spot on one side as you can see at the end of the video, so I think I can squeeze more out of it over time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TeGq1lqELPc

once your magnets are on, you can just drill holes in the plastic to balance it then put on the covers

Tom C

[Prinsloo]

Attached is a clip of JBs 10 Coiler

Branch Gordon

Attached is a clip of JBs 10 Coiler, on the wheel chair wheel you have noticed the outside rim is much narrower than the cog on the inside, if you would draw a line from the cog to the outside rim 90 degrees to the shaft it should end up close to the side of the magnets, this space you can fill up by wrapping strapping tape around it and nicely box the inside in much less wind drag on it, like the master have done here.

Theunis

[Branch Gordon]

Hi Tom-

I think you misunderstood. I went back to my original aluminum wheel...and put aside the nylon one for now. The aluminum wheel has around a 9:30 free spin time with the magnets and strapping tape already attached.

once your magnets are on, you can just drill holes in the plastic to balance it then put on the covers

Tom C

[Tom C]

ok thanks branch.

tom C