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  • Aaron Murakami
    replied
    Originally posted by powermanch View Post
    Built by (bedinisg) ebook, Thank you ,JB,Peter and Aaron!
    Hi Everyone, looking for next step if this ssg is working ok!
    This is the first picture I posted, so I hope it will show up here
    Is there anything else I need to tell about my machine to get to the next step?
    Ok Peter and Aaron , let's go.

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]1334[/ATTACH]

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]1333[/ATTACH]
    Hi Powermanch,

    Congratulations on being the first to post a build based on the recommendations in the book!

    Yes on what Tom said - and adjust the base resistance.

    Leave a comment:


  • Aaron Murakami
    replied
    Originally posted by sinergicus View Post
    My intention is to using more than 130 ft of wires on my SSG coil;i understand this is more beneficial for COP of the device.
    So my question is, the resistors from the base transistors need to be changed?
    If I decide to change them how to find the proper resistors? Need to tune one power coil first
    (without other six coils connected at the power source ) ,find the proper resistors and after that to mount the same value of the resistors at the remaining coils?
    I would keep it to 130 ft with the same size wire as the book describes and the same quantity of power windings - 7. Those specs are what are used in the models that are tested at John's and are proven.

    Leave a comment:


  • sinergicus
    replied
    My intention is to using more than 130 ft of wires on my SSG coil;i understand this is more beneficial for COP of the device.
    So my question is, the resistors from the base transistors need to be changed?
    If I decide to change them how to find the proper resistors? Need to tune one power coil first
    (without other six coils connected at the power source ) ,find the proper resistors and after that to mount the same value of the resistors at the remaining coils?

    Leave a comment:


  • powermanch
    replied
    Hi Tom C,

    Thank you for your update!!!

    I have remove all amp meters, and installed a final base 1k pot , ( I think thats what you meant)
    Now testing with a clamp on meter, and it is one that we can trust,
    I have removed the red fan that was not asked for in the bedini ebook. (sorry about that) But that machine can do work,
    the best sweet spot I can find is what you see in that picture, if I go lower with amp draw, it slows down, (too much),
    RPM is now 259

    Tom C thanks again!!!
    let me know mine next move, Please!


    Click image for larger version

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    Leave a comment:


  • Tom C
    replied
    Originally posted by powermanch View Post
    Hi everyone,

    It looks like more load lowers amp draw


    [ATTACH=CONFIG]1339[/ATTACH]

    [ATTACH=CONFIG]1340[/ATTACH]

    How does scope shot look? Is it the one we are looking for?


    [ATTACH=CONFIG]1341[/ATTACH]


    Thank you for having a look at this.
    you need to change your final base resistor so you get around 1 amp...., current draw is too hi on the primary. we dont care about secondary amp draw. take your meter out, we want a currentless. charge. dont run with the meter on the primary either, switch it in and out, or use a DC current clamp.

    and yes your scope shot looks fine.

    Tom C

    Tom C

    Leave a comment:


  • powermanch
    replied
    Hi everyone,

    It looks like more load lowers amp draw


    Click image for larger version

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    Click image for larger version

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    How does scope shot look? Is it the one we are looking for?


    Click image for larger version

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ID:	45188


    Thank you for having a look at this.

    Leave a comment:


  • powermanch
    replied
    Built by (bedinisg) ebook, Thank you ,JB,Peter and Aaron!
    Hi Everyone, looking for next step if this ssg is working ok!
    This is the first picture I posted, so I hope it will show up here
    Is there anything else I need to tell about my machine to get to the next step?
    Ok Peter and Aaron , let's go.

    24 magnents on 25'' wheel measured the way the bedinisg ebook shows
    spacing between each magnents worked out to be 2 1/2 inches
    north pole facing coil on all magnents
    winding on coil is 36 inches shorter then 130 feet , because I ran out of wire (that sucks)
    attraction mode
    good bearing, didn't check spin time, because bedinisg ebook never asked to check
    used 12volt 26ah SLA 1146 batteries
    input amp draw 2amps (I think this is way two high)
    output amp draw 1.2amp (I don't know what this should be)




    Click image for larger version

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    Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by powermanch; 01-10-2013, 10:54 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Tom C
    replied
    Originally posted by Tom C View Post
    you cant solder with steel rods, its steel. you can weld. they dont work as well as copper for electrical connections. the copper thickness does not matter, its in the mils..... the difference in the rods is minute in terms of composition. I dont think rusty rods do work as well, because they continue to rust and eventually the core gets shorts internally.

    Tom C
    ok wait I read that wrong, I thought you were going to try and use it for solder you think I am fairly silly right now but believe me it would not be the first time someone has tried to use it for solder..... on another forum... a while ago.
    nevermind.
    Tom C

    Leave a comment:


  • Tom C
    replied
    Originally posted by sinergicus View Post
    Thanks for the answer... in the meantime I received another answer from the company so the F30 is not the dimension... F30 is the characteristic of magnetization

    F30 means (BH)max >26 kj/m3
    magnetisation grade -3800 Gauss
    Coercivity- min 180 kA/m
    hmm ok anyway those will work for you.


    Tom C

    Leave a comment:


  • sinergicus
    replied
    Originally posted by Tom C View Post
    you cant solder with steel rods, its steel. you can weld. they dont work as well as copper for electrical connections. the copper thickness does not matter, its in the mils..... the difference in the rods is minute in terms of composition. I dont think rusty rods do work as well, because they continue to rust and eventually the core gets shorts internally.

    Tom C
    Thanks for the answer... in the meantime I received another answer from the company so the F30 is not the dimension... F30 is the characteristic of magnetization

    F30 means (BH)max >26 kj/m3
    magnetisation grade -3800 Gauss
    Coercivity- min 180 kA/m

    Leave a comment:


  • Tom C
    replied
    Originally posted by sinergicus View Post
    Regarding the magnets grade, I tried to find some magnets available in area where I live (Romania), and I found a company that sell some ferrite magnets close to dimension given in the book....

    I asked them about grade C8 and they told me about F30 type .Can somebody enlighten me what kind of grade means this F30 type?

    Thanks
    Zhejiang, China (Mainland)
    ZH
    F30*20*6mm
    Permanent
    Ferrite Magnet
    Block
    Industrial Magnet
    Ferrite Magnet
    Permanent
    Y30BH
    F30*20*6mm


    C8 is the gauss rating, the F30 is the magnet size. that is the difference, those should work alright for you.

    Tom C

    Leave a comment:


  • Tom C
    replied
    Originally posted by AMPPMEUPP View Post
    Dow we know if there is a difference in the amount of copper coating of the R 45 gas rod vs the R 60 gas rod??? or is it only different tensile strengths of the rods and also taking into account that rusty rods of the same steel will also work just as well.

    I plan to also use the rods to solder stuff to and use them as a conducting wire.

    thanks,
    Richard
    you cant solder with steel rods, its steel. you can weld. they dont work as well as copper for electrical connections. the copper thickness does not matter, its in the mils..... the difference in the rods is minute in terms of composition. I dont think rusty rods do work as well, because they continue to rust and eventually the core gets shorts internally.

    Tom C

    Leave a comment:


  • AMPPMEUPP
    replied
    Dow we know if there is a difference in the amount of copper coating of the R 45 gas rod vs the R 60 gas rod??? or is it only different tensile strengths of the rods and also taking into account that rusty rods of the same steel will also work just as well.

    I plan to also use the rods to solder stuff to and use them as a conducting wire.

    thanks,
    Richard

    Leave a comment:


  • sinergicus
    replied
    Regarding the magnets grade, I tried to find some magnets available in area where I live (Romania), and I found a company that sell some ferrite magnets close to dimension given in the book....

    I asked them about grade C8 and they told me about F30 type .Can somebody enlighten me what kind of grade means this F30 type?

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Aaron Murakami
    replied
    Originally posted by sinergicus View Post
    Regarding the core welding wire specs...would be a good ideea to post some datasheet about that wire to help people around the world to search in their countries some similar type of wire...
    For core wire, this is the exact item I purchased about 2 weeks ago and it works perfect:

    Amazon.com: Weldcote Metals R45 1/16" X 36" Gas Welding Rod 10 Lbs.: Home Improvement

    Weldcote Metals R45 1/16" X 36" Gas Welding Rod 10 Lbs.



    DESCRIPTION: Weldcote Metals R45 is a copper coated gas welding rod that is used for welding ordinary low carbon steel up to 1/4 thick. It is recommended where ductility and machinability are most important. R45 produces high quality welds which are ductile and free of porosity. This rod is excellent for steel sheets, plates, pipes, castings and structural shapes. No flux required. APPROVALS: Meets AWS A5.2 Class R45. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION Carbon .08Manganese .50Silicon .10Phosphorus .035Sulfur .040Copper .30Chromium .20Nickel .30Molybdenum .20Aluminum .02 Packaging: 10 LB

    In the USA, it is about $30 delivered. You can make a LOT of cores with 10 pounds of this wire.

    I'm sure you can find something similar outside of the USA as welding rod should be very common.

    Leave a comment:

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