Complete Bedini SG Book!

[John_Koorn]

Here where I live is a real pain to find r45 welding rod type for core...I found instead this:
http://www.imosdg.ro/cataloage/Fisa%...likon_mg-2.pdf

Can somebody take a look and let me know if this type of wire is ok?

Hi sinergicus,

I'm not sure if they will be OK withiut seeing a picture of them.

Alternatively, you can buy the recommended rods from Coils and Coil Components

We ship all over the world.

John K.

[sinergicus]

Hi sinergicus,

I'm not sure if they will be OK withiut seeing a picture of them.

Alternatively, you can buy the recommended rods from Coils and Coil Components

We ship all over the world.

John K.

Thank you for your offer but I want to have an cheap and near my location source of welding wire...

Here in attachment I put another type of wire what I can find in my area OKGasrod98.70 pdf specs

Please ask John Bedini about this to give us his opinion...

[aln]

At powermaunch

Mike Swanson posted some results, download them and use his form to do yours on. It is titled "My SSG And First 20 Charge Runs" that should get you started. Al

[John_Koorn]

Thank you for your offer but I want to have an cheap and near my location source of welding wire...

Here in attachment I put another type of wire what I can find in my area OKGasrod98.70 pdf specs

Please ask John Bedini about this to give us his opinion...

sinergicus,

They have a classification of R60, so they should be fine. Hard to tell for sure without a picture of them though.

John K.

[nobie1]

hi can anyone help? I bought the e book and have built the bike wheel energizer but it does not charge the other battery or turn after i move the wheel on its own power or the neo bulbs flash what am i doing wrong here is some photos can anyone help me please claire in england

[Dave Wing]

Hi nobie1,

-Make sure all your solder connections are not cold solder joints. Look this up on you tube if you don't know the proper way to solder and what a good joint should look like.
-Make sure the metal faces of the transistors are not touching each other and making electrical contact... If they are mounted on the same piece of metal, you will need transistor isolators that go under each metal face before it is mounted.
-You should not need transistor paste, next to no heat will be generated if you run the machine the way it was designed. 7 strands = 875mA, primary draw. If you push the machine beyond one amp things will heat up... heat = waste of energy, not good for conservation.
-Double check all connections to ensure proper wiring according to schematic.
-Check the condition of transistors... as they can get damaged if you short out certain wires while assembling. Always carry extras on hand if you like to experiment.

Hope this helps.

Dave Wing

[nobie1]

i have spent hundreds on this please help i have fowled every thing in the e book, or have i been taken for a ride please tell me this is not bull shxxx what is wrong with the with mine

[Aaron Murakami]

i have spent hundreds on this please help i have fowled every thing in the e book, or have i been taken for a ride please tell me this is not bull shxxx what is wrong with the with mine

Nobie,

There have been many thousands of SSG's built and they do run so it is very real. The difference is that in the book, it gives a comprehensive overview of John's own specifications for his own bicycle wheel SSG's so everyone has the best chance to get the kind of results that John gets.

I looked at all 4 of your pictures and honestly, it is hard to see what you have going on there.

Please don't panic. If you have the frame assembled and you have the coil wound, then you already have the most difficult job done.

If necessary, are you willing to re-assemble your circuit so that it is tidied up so it is really easy to see how it is all wired?

Your twists on the wires look really tight. If that was my build, what I would do first is unsolder everything and start the circuit from scratch.

Before connecting the coil at either end to anything, I would take an ohm meter (continuity meter) and see that none of your wires are shorted together. They shouldn't be but if you really twist them so hard together, it could have rubbed off the enamel and shorted them together. Probably not, but I think it is worth checking because if the problem is something like that, no matter what you do to the circuit, it could cause problems. I'm guessing if power windings were shorted, it may still run but if the trigger is shorted to the power windings, then you can have problems. I'd start there, but that's just me.

If you hook up a battery on both the input and output and spin the wheel (or not), does anything in the circuit get really hot?

Please don't disassemble anything yet - just reply that you have read this message.

[nobie1]

thank you so much for ur reply i tested all the wires at the start with a led and it only lit up with a current going through each wire so i put them in order of alphabet just to check there was no short circuits

[Tom C]

thank you so much for ur reply i tested all the wires at the start with a led and it only lit up with a current going through each wire so i put them in order of alphabet just to check there was no short circuits

Nobie,
please get yourself a multi meter that has a continuity tester and a diode function tester built in. it is better to test that way. can I ask you a couple of questions?

1- did you strip off the eneamel from the ends of all the magnet wire before you soldered?
2- are the transistors isolated from each other against the heat sink? if they are just bare to the copper it wont work heatsink compund is not an insulator.
3- you may have the wires backwards for the circuit, check wind direction and check that the start of coil and end of coil are in the right place.

your circuit is covered in cold solder joints, so there is probably a ton of non connected junctions. a solder joint should be smooth shiny and flat. its very hard to heat up copper strip hot enough for solder to flow correctly. search google for proper solder technique, so you can see a good solder joint. you should change out those pieces of copper for thin pieces of circuit board that has not been etched. 10 mm wide is plenty.

I know this will be hard to read, but if you cannot get it running with a few simple continuity tests, you will have to start over. the easiest way is to remove everything, and start with 1 power winding, 1 transistor and the trigger wire. get it running on a single power strand then add transistors one at a time.

Tom C

[nobie1]

thanks tom that is realy usfull information im so interested in johns work hes a super star all of you are i will do all that tonight i was also thinking of buying one of them circuit boards pre made and a coil

[Tom C]

thanks tom that is realy usfull information im so interested in johns work hes a super star all of you are i will do all that tonight i was also thinking of buying one of them circuit boards pre made and a coil

that is not a bad idea. the real question is are you electronically minded, can you diagnose the circuit? even with a complete board and coil you still need to be able to understand the circuit and how it works or have someone around you that does.

Tom C

[nobie1]

Yes I do understand electrics. I was a sparky for 3 years in the UK, but the more I learnt the more it never made sense in my mind. I have a very profitable company. I am dyslexic and see things very differently to the status quo! In England, here we all think if it is broken throw it away or get someone with every certificate to work on our properties (because that is the way in England..like the Germans it all has to be right and by the book) (however Germans are very clever!) We are society that won't fix it ourselves like the American's and Australian's do. So we're all sheep to the system now and believe what ever the paper says. Also I do believe democracy is powered by people with alot of money that doesn't want us all to be free from a matrix system we live in tax and oil. In fact I don't even like saying this on the internet because this will be flagged as they're always their scared to lose their power and control that they have manipulated over civilization.

[sinergicus]

Regarding the current output from ssg...I understand the output of device is current less energy ..anyway I understand also is some residual (?) current along with radiant that going to the second battery ...what is the maximum current admitted at the output to consider the ssg device is working ok?

[Tom C]

Regarding the current output from ssg...I understand the output of device is current less energy ..anyway I understand also is some residual (?) current along with radiant that going to the second battery ...what is the maximum current admitted at the output to consider the ssg device is working ok?

there is not a"number" the SG built from the book pulls 1 amp from the primary, tune with the primary draw in mind, depending upon your coil your current draw will vary there is no standard. if you have that a s a standard it is easy to test, draw one amp from the primary, then one amp from the charge battery, its a great test platform.

Tom C