My SSG And First 20 Charge Runs

[Mike Swanson]

Hello,

I wanted to post some photos of my SSG and my first 20 charge run data. I'm very pleased with the performance . I averaged a system COP of about 70% and a battery COP of 180% . The coil is 2 strands of 18 AWG the tuned resistance value is set at 912 Ohms. I used a great suggestion from the board--a small decade resistance "box" that really helped with that part of the tuning. Might want to see if I can increase system COP to 80-90% if possible, maybe through bearing adjustment or some other means, suggestions are welcome--but I consider it a complete success as it is! I finally got another battery so I am continuing to do charge runs to 14.5V to see if it conditions the battery further. Thanks to John Bedini, John Koorn and everyone who helped on the board!

[Tom C]

first get all of your mechanical losses fixed, hi freewheel time, above 8 minutes, a balanced wheel, reduce friction wherever you can. then shorten all your leds, and get really large cables to and from your batteries. then play with coil gap distances, then find othere sweet spots on your wheel. when you change battery size everything else will change also.

Tom

[Mike Swanson]

first get all of your mechanical losses fixed, hi freewheel time, above 8 minutes, a balanced wheel, reduce friction wherever you can. then shorten all your leds, and get really large cables to and from your batteries. then play with coil gap distances, then find othere sweet spots on your wheel. when you change battery size everything else will change also.

Tom

Ok, thanks for the advice. My freewheel time was 9 mins or so but I've seen higher on this board. My battery cables are I think 10 Gauge. 8 Gauge was too hard to solder but maybe I can work something out. How about hollow copper tubing? We're interested in the surface conductivity anyway, right? Do you think it would help to look for base resistances above 1k ohms?

Mike

[James Milner]

Mike,
If you want to solder heavy gauge wire try using a liquid flux pen directly on the wire and on what you want to solder it to. I use a small gas iron and can solder #2 gauge wire. It made a huge difference!
James

[Tom C]

you can try it, but I dont think you will find another sweet spot before your coil goes solid state. large cables will probably help more, and yes copper pipe for bus bar is a good idea.

Tom C

[Mike Swanson]

Mike,
If you want to solder heavy gauge wire try using a liquid flux pen directly on the wire and on what you want to solder it to. I use a small gas iron and can solder #2 gauge wire. It made a huge difference!
James

That is some thick wire! Good to know that it's a significant improvement, I might try that with the copper tubing, thanks. And thanks, Tom C.

[Mike Swanson]

Wanted to post before I did more troubleshooting. This is my first time using an oscilloscope so I might be doing something wrong, but with the probe grounded to wall ground and the tip on the power coil top I get this:



Definitely not the single spike I'm looking for. 5 repeating blips at various points along a sine wave. Assuming I'm not using the scope wrong, I'm going to try adjusting the base resistance then taking my 200' or so long coil down to 130' (should do that anyway). Wondered if anyone has a better idea?

[John_Koorn]

Wanted to post before I did more troubleshooting. This is my first time using an oscilloscope so I might be doing something wrong, but with the probe grounded to wall ground and the tip on the power coil top I get this:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]1380[/ATTACH]

Definitely not the single spike I'm looking for. 5 repeating blips at various points along a sine wave. Assuming I'm not using the scope wrong, I'm going to try adjusting the base resistance then taking my 200' or so long coil down to 130' (should do that anyway). Wondered if anyone has a better idea?

Hey Mike,

The probe ground should go on the emitter of the transistor and the probe tip should go on the collector of the transistor.

John K.

[Mike Swanson]

Hey Mike,

The probe ground should go on the emitter of the transistor and the probe tip should go on the collector of the transistor.

John K.

Ah, tyvm! This makes more sense--get a nice 12.4 DC reading before machine is spun and this while running:



Still the 5 peak pattern but no sine wave--er maybe my house ground is not very grounded? And the voltages are almost all positive. Thanks, John, still no spike, but onwards and upwards!

[John_Koorn]

Ah, tyvm! This makes more sense--get a nice 12.4 DC reading before machine is spun and this while running:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]1381[/ATTACH]

Still the 5 peak pattern but no sine wave--er maybe my house ground is not very grounded? And the voltages are almost all positive. Thanks, John, still no spike, but onwards and upwards!

Very good Mike. Now you need to slowly reduce the base resistance until you have just one pulse. As you do this you will see the draw current increase a bit but as soon as one of the pulses goes away the draw current will drop again and the wheel will speed up.

John K.

[Mike Swanson]

Very good Mike. Now you need to slowly reduce the base resistance until you have just one pulse. As you do this you will see the draw current increase a bit but as soon as one of the pulses goes away the draw current will drop again and the wheel will speed up.

John K.

Okay, ran it from 910 ohms (roughly the setting at which I was doing my 20 charge runs) down to zero and the peaks did indeed lessen from 5 to 4 (840 ohms), 3 (650 ohms), 2 (410 ohms), then finally 1 at 50 ohms. You can see very small spikes, but the overall waveform is not a spike, and by the time I was at one pulse I was drawing 800 mA. Here's a photo at 50 ohms:



So my working hypothesis (total guess) is that I need to shorten my coil winding from 200' that it is now to the 130' it is supposed to be. Then will try again! Thanks John, more suggestions are of course welcome.

[Tom C]

yes, you need to shorten your wire for sure.


Tom C

[John_Koorn]

Okay, ran it from 910 ohms (roughly the setting at which I was doing my 20 charge runs) down to zero and the peaks did indeed lessen from 5 to 4 (840 ohms), 3 (650 ohms), 2 (410 ohms), then finally 1 at 50 ohms. You can see very small spikes, but the overall waveform is not a spike, and by the time I was at one pulse I was drawing 800 mA. Here's a photo at 50 ohms:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]1394[/ATTACH]

So my working hypothesis (total guess) is that I need to shorten my coil winding from 200' that it is now to the 130' it is supposed to be. Then will try again! Thanks John, more suggestions are of course welcome.

Hi Mike,

that is a good looking waveform. As Tom said, you now need to shorten your coil.

John K.

[Mike Swanson]

Hi Mike,

that is a good looking waveform. As Tom said, you now need to shorten your coil.

John K.

Thanks guys! Shortened the coil and I get 1 pulse, same looking waveform at about 0 ohms, but my draw is an amp or so. Interestingly, when the wheel speeds up at 0 ohms, I can increase the resistance to 150 ohms or so while keeping the single peak waveform and higher speed and lowering the current draw. But 150 ohms from wheel stop to stable speed gives me a lesser speed and two peak waveform. Shortening the coil did seem to give me a better magnets per minute per milliamp reading up at 980 ohms with the lowest current draw but the waveform was 6 or 7 pulse trains. Am going to try working up from 700 ohms to 980 or so to see if I can get to the higher speed and 4 or 5 pulse waveform at the lower amp draw of 980 ohms. But I suspect my efficiency has increased despite not having that single spike at a reasonable current draw. I find it interesting that I seem to be getting the increased battery COP without the 200V or so spike but with trains of 7 or so 35V spikes .

[Mike Swanson]

Hm, my scope shows 30-35 Volt peaks yet my neon bulb lights up pretty brightly when charge battery is disconnected (just for an instant to test)...I was under the impression that the neon wouldn't light up until 50 or 100 Volts?