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Rotation Achieved. What are my options now?
Hi. So today has been a joyous day for me as I have finally been able to achieve rotation with my simple SG monopole set up. 
My device:
8 pieces of 0.5" deep, 1" wide, 3" tall ferrite magnets. These were installed at about 4" center to center on the circumference of a 12" dia plastic plate extracted out of a CD/LD changer/player. The plate's axis of rotation is horizontal. It is supported in the middle with a steel bar used as a bicycle axle. The entire rig is mounted on wood and the core is held with wood. No iron nails, or other iron supports or objects.
The winding is done on a 3" long empty soldering wire spindle. The magnetic wires are No. 20 and No. 23 (SWG) each a 100 yards long and "Litz'ed" together with help from a friend. The core is as recommended, welding rods, but they aren't coated with copper. The last bunch of welding rods were sharpened by cutting them at an angle and then carefully and slowly hammered into the spaces visible through the core. No adhesive used either to hold them together.
The transistor is a cheap Chinese 2N3055. In place of a 1N4001 I used a 1N34 germanium diode to link the base and emitter as shown in the instructional circuit diagram. About 5 pieces of cheaper 1K ohm variable resistors used as volume knobs in radios did not survive the process (and will be duly remembered for their service to humanity!). The drive battery, currently, is a 12V 4AH motorcycle battery. The charging batteries have been various, even individual lead acid battery cells. This helped me notice that the RPMs of the monopole responded to the load of the charging battery.
The neon lamp showed an interesting phenomenon as it glowed orange when I intentionally disconnected a charging batt terminal at low RPMs but shortly after as the motor gained a bit more speed it glowed a bright light blue when the terminal was taken off as a test.
Anyway, this has been a lovely experience. I can feel the power and the potential of it (specifically, its COP>1 potential) since its first acceleration. And the light blue neon flashes have captivated my interest. Therefore without further ado, I come before you all and ask as a humble novice: What now? I know I should complete charge/discharge cycles of batteries about 20 times with it but I've been itching to try things and I'm also apprehensive or in fact fearful of the output. I hear that it can't be / shouldn't be measured (if it is indeed "cold electricity") for the sake of the multimeter's health.
I also noticed that the amps from the run battery could only be measured by clamping the multimeter around its +ve end (and not at the -ve end, for some reason) while the opposite is what I observed in case of the charging battery. So now what are my options now? 
Can I put a bridge or a few caps here and there? Can I try to measure the output with instruments? (I am a poor amateur and don't own a oscilloscope). Last but not least, hats off to everyone who are helping others with this. You have yet another person's sincere gratitude. 
Thank you.
My device:
8 pieces of 0.5" deep, 1" wide, 3" tall ferrite magnets. These were installed at about 4" center to center on the circumference of a 12" dia plastic plate extracted out of a CD/LD changer/player. The plate's axis of rotation is horizontal. It is supported in the middle with a steel bar used as a bicycle axle. The entire rig is mounted on wood and the core is held with wood. No iron nails, or other iron supports or objects.
The winding is done on a 3" long empty soldering wire spindle. The magnetic wires are No. 20 and No. 23 (SWG) each a 100 yards long and "Litz'ed" together with help from a friend. The core is as recommended, welding rods, but they aren't coated with copper. The last bunch of welding rods were sharpened by cutting them at an angle and then carefully and slowly hammered into the spaces visible through the core. No adhesive used either to hold them together.
The transistor is a cheap Chinese 2N3055. In place of a 1N4001 I used a 1N34 germanium diode to link the base and emitter as shown in the instructional circuit diagram. About 5 pieces of cheaper 1K ohm variable resistors used as volume knobs in radios did not survive the process (and will be duly remembered for their service to humanity!). The drive battery, currently, is a 12V 4AH motorcycle battery. The charging batteries have been various, even individual lead acid battery cells. This helped me notice that the RPMs of the monopole responded to the load of the charging battery.
The neon lamp showed an interesting phenomenon as it glowed orange when I intentionally disconnected a charging batt terminal at low RPMs but shortly after as the motor gained a bit more speed it glowed a bright light blue when the terminal was taken off as a test.
Anyway, this has been a lovely experience. I can feel the power and the potential of it (specifically, its COP>1 potential) since its first acceleration. And the light blue neon flashes have captivated my interest. Therefore without further ado, I come before you all and ask as a humble novice: What now? I know I should complete charge/discharge cycles of batteries about 20 times with it but I've been itching to try things and I'm also apprehensive or in fact fearful of the output. I hear that it can't be / shouldn't be measured (if it is indeed "cold electricity") for the sake of the multimeter's health.
I also noticed that the amps from the run battery could only be measured by clamping the multimeter around its +ve end (and not at the -ve end, for some reason) while the opposite is what I observed in case of the charging battery. So now what are my options now? Can I put a bridge or a few caps here and there? Can I try to measure the output with instruments? (I am a poor amateur and don't own a oscilloscope). Last but not least, hats off to everyone who are helping others with this. You have yet another person's sincere gratitude. Thank you.
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