How to Make a Bedini Crystal Battery

[plengo]

I have been testing a 6 cells extensively. Although the amount of power this unit can produce per second is ridicules, about 88.2 mili Joules when the cells are totally discharged, meaning, they are already running for days and days without input power after being discharged and still providing that amount of energy.

Now, those numbers are based on the state of those cells, very discharged. They are producing that little power for an equivalent amount of stored energy, which in this case is zero.

Now, imagine how this cell must perform when having copious amounts of energy STORED and now can perform its 882 mili Joules equivalently? In other words, this cell when charged will produce freely something of at least the difference in energy stored in both states (charged and discharged), and this can be a few orders of magnitude (if the relationship is linear). If the relationship is not linear, lets say, exponential, we can NOW understand where is the free power and long discharges that people are experiencing after a correct charge.

The cell is INDEED providing an equivalent amount of energy FREELY to the load and gradually diminish that FREE energy as the stored energy is released until it gets to where I am now, super discharged cells and still providing infinite power, although small (given infinite time).

I found out how to maintain this little 6 cells of mine running in a special configuration (very much like the principles of Bedini's Tesla Charger) while providing that little power. Other configurations only makes things worse. Those cells are working in union and only that way I could perform that little task.

May be it would be too much to invest in scaling a 6 cells into useful power BUT understanding that relationship may open a different door for scalability of this kind of battery. When this cells are fully charged they do provide a substantial amount of free energy.

Another point is that while the cell is very discharged and providing that power, when I disconnect the load from the cell, a 4 volts spike shows on my monitors (scope and meters). I wonder why, since this is not a coil but more like a capacitor, may be it is both.

I would speculate, that those playing with fully charged Lead/Alum converted batteries will not have the same sparks as an equivalent Lead Acid battery would, when shorting. They will be much more powerful since the normal current is already being provide PLUS the induction discharge of cell itself from the Crystals within.

My cell at 70mv still produces 4volts of spike every time I disconnect the load (resistor 100 ohms).

Fausto.

ps: changed the value from 5.88 to 88.2 mili Joules.

[prato_braun]

@Lidmotor, Bendini, others
When I get all my supplies, this I where I want to start....
My question is what are the advantages/ disadvantages for having
1 positive plate
And 2 negative plates
Or if there is a good link to where this is answered...
Thank you..

Hi Heaven,

as Lidmotor said, I also think it's to make better use of both sides of the + plate.

[area46241]

I did an alum motorcycle battery conversion and it seems to be a success so far no detectable leakage 11.18 volts after settling from a days charge on the menards recreational battery solar panel. The battery runs a 40 milli amp load quite well need to do a graph to get better scope of its capabilities. However...I failed to reverse charge it at first but it worked anyway. Only alum and distilled water were used. then my boy lost one of the caps and I stuck a pencil in the fill hole next to the positive and low and behold...it made a good positive terminal( It surprized me but not that much since I have been following since the beginning.) Is there a simple circuit available for the tesla/solar switch? Are they available for purchase or can I throw one together with a 339 or a 741 op amp. My auto electric buddy was floored when I told him his junk battery is back to life since this battery would absolutely not take a charge...thanks alot.

[Lidmotor]

I made the three plate cell (-)---(+)---(-) mainly because John B. did it that way. I also read up on lead acid batteries and one more (-) plate was mentioned as part of the usual design. Here is the Wikipedia link:
Lead
I believe that it has to do with surface area and the way that the chemistry works. On my AA cell the basic structure dictated it. It would be better if I could make a lead tube with a lead rod in the center. It could be done using the linotype lead that I am using because it is rigid enough. Regular lead would be too soft.

Lidmotor

[HeavensPavement]

@Lidmotor, Bendini, others
When I get all my supplies, this I where I want to start....
My question is what are the advantages/ disadvantages for having
1 positive plate
And 2 negative plates
Or if there is a good link to where this is answered...
Thank you..

[Lidmotor]

I have been working on small cells lately and trying different materials. My motorcycle battery conversion has been left sitting to observe the self discharge and see if it bounces back after several weeks of no attention. The battery voltage has gone down to about 9.5 volts. Next week I will do some tests on it. If this battery works out like I hope then I will probably convert a full size car car battery and start testing it in my car.

John B.
I made a AA size 3 plate Lead/Alum cell based on your 3 plate design that you showed weeks ago. I have been doing extensive testing with it and have had success. It fits into standard AA devices and can be charged up with a small solar charger I made or a regular wall outlet AA charger.

Homemade Rechargeable AA powering an LED flashlight - YouTube


Lidmotor

[Michael Luton]

Fausto, The way you have drawn out the circuit it seems very similar to John Bedini's 3 or 4 battery tesla switch. I will need to go back and look at those circuits again. After watching several times that same circuit would also represent the SSG minus the trigger circuit. You have me drawing and redrawing all kinds of circuits to see if I can see some things differently. Thank you for the inspiration.

Michael

[Branch Gordon]

Oh ok I see. Well...too late now, haha!

I did just take the solution off the top...not the mush. I heated the water to boiling on the stove, then poured it over the alum and started stirring.

The curve already looks TOTALLY different than before. It's maintaining a higher voltage for longer. I'll be anxious to check it in the morning and see where it's sitting.

Branch, I found the same thing when mixing the Alum. Did you heat the distilled water to 120F before adding the Alum? What you will find is that as soon as you mix it up, the Alum will want to crystalize and start to grow. This is where the blender is handy because as the solution starts to cool it will get to a point where it won't grow any more so you can end up with all of the Alum dissolved. If you don't have a blender or could not dissolve all the Alum and have an Alum mush at the bottom use a syringe to suck the liquid from the top and put it in the battery. This will prevent putting un-dissolved Alum in the battery and that way you can also measure how much you are putting in.

When I said 60% Alum, 40% SO4 I meant that is for the total mix. So if you have 200mL to fill the battery you need 120mL Alum solution and 80mL SO4 solution. This should all be mixed at the same time like JB showed in one of his videos. So start off with 120mL of distilled water heated to 120F (microwave oven), add the Alum and keep mixing until you get that slippery feeling and all the Alum is dissolved and then add the 80mL of SO4 solution. Use the syringe to put 33mL of the total mix in each cell.

John K.

[John_Koorn]

Branch, I found the same thing when mixing the Alum. Did you heat the distilled water to 120F before adding the Alum? What you will find is that as soon as you mix it up, the Alum will want to crystalize and start to grow. This is where the blender is handy because as the solution starts to cool it will get to a point where it won't grow any more so you can end up with all of the Alum dissolved. If you don't have a blender or could not dissolve all the Alum and have an Alum mush at the bottom use a syringe to suck the liquid from the top and put it in the battery. This will prevent putting un-dissolved Alum in the battery and that way you can also measure how much you are putting in.

When I said 60% Alum, 40% SO4 I meant that is for the total mix. So if you have 200mL to fill the battery you need 120mL Alum solution and 80mL SO4 solution. This should all be mixed at the same time like JB showed in one of his videos. So start off with 120mL of distilled water heated to 120F (microwave oven), add the Alum and keep mixing until you get that slippery feeling and all the Alum is dissolved and then add the 80mL of SO4 solution. Use the syringe to put 33mL of the total mix in each cell.

John K.

[Branch Gordon]

Today I emptied out my alum battery and let it dry out. I also emptied out a lead acid battery of the same model, to do a brand new conversion.

I don't have an extra blender yet, and my wife would pull her hair out if I put battery acid in our blender, haha.

I set out to make a 60% alum solution. I poured 120 grams of alum in a cup, then 200 ml of distilled water. Stirred it up vigorously.....but not all the alum dissolved. There was still a large mass of it at the bottom of the cup.

So I did my best pouring it in the batteries. I stirred it up...poured...stirred it up...poured. At one point I had just alum mush, so I had to add more water to get more dissolved.

Does the blender get this all mixed up...or does it still settle to the bottom?

I did not add any acid yet...going to add that incrementally.

The newest battery charged up to 15.14V. Settled at 12.78V. Running a curve at 400mA. I'm gonna go through a couple cycles before I upload results/change anything.

[plengo]

I would like to share some of my findings in my experiments.

Video part1: http://youtu.be/EbRySaSYEgw
part 2: Crystal Cell 36 - YouTube

and current state of the cell picture. This test the cell does not have ANY input of power present.

Fausto.

[John_Koorn]

Just a quick update. I loaded my battery again with the 51 super bright LEDs. At the start of the load cycle I was drawing 380mA @ 11.03v = 4.19W and the LEDs were fully bright.

After 801 minutes (13.35 hours) the battery voltage was down to 3.384v @ 31mA = 0.105W and the LEDs were about 2/3 brightness.

I roughly calculated 39Wh in and 29Wh out, but I still don't have the balance right yet. Here's a pic of my charge and discharge curves.


I just added another 1.5mL of SO4 to each cell for a total of 6mL added to 33mL of Alum solution. Slowly but surely...

John K.

[John_Koorn]

@Branch, I am seein the same thing just I didn't disconnect the CBA I will try that.

@Wei, yes I have done that. But I'm looking at changing the mix to get the same curves as JB.

John K.

[Wei]

@Tom C, did you charge it up yet? I'm interested to see a what voltage it level off at.


All, I ran a cycle with 3mL of battery acid in the alum solution. Remember, this was a dry charge battery to start with. The charge curve showed it levelled off at 16.3v which I think is too high. It also rested at 11.03v which is a little low. I ran the discharge curve out until the LEDs would not light any more, which was about 2.6v on the battery. It's very difficult to calculate the energy out as the ammeter was reading 0 amps but the LEDs were still lit, go figure.


I think with the dry charge batteries you need to add more acid, whereas if you convert a wet charged battery the acid is already formed on the plates so you don't have to add the acid.


I've now added another 1.5mL of acid to each cell and charged it up. This time it levelled off at 16.0v and rested at 11.3v, so it's getting closer to the range I want it at impedance wise.



John K.

I think you might have to cycle the battery a few times before changing the mixture. The curve will change each time you cycle it.

[Branch Gordon]

I wanted to comment on your ammeter reading...

My recent curve, which I just ended a few hours ago....I had 300mA of LED's as the load. I used the CBA III to chart the curve.... At some point under 3V, the LED's go out. But if I disconnect the CBA III, the LED"s come back on. And stay on. In fact they have been lit for 5 days before I disconnected them today.

I was curious if they were still pulling 300mA. Nope. I hooked my DMM in series with the load...it shows around 11mA. So it seems that the load doesn't stay constant as the voltage drops. The light of course is not very useful pulling 11mA..but all the LED's are lit up regardless.

This might be common knowledge to everyone else....but I didn't realize it until today.

@Tom C, did you charge it up yet? I'm interested to see a what voltage it level off at.


All, I ran a cycle with 3mL of battery acid in the alum solution. Remember, this was a dry charge battery to start with. The charge curve showed it levelled off at 16.3v which I think is too high. It also rested at 11.03v which is a little low. I ran the discharge curve out until the LEDs would not light any more, which was about 2.6v on the battery. It's very difficult to calculate the energy out as the ammeter was reading 0 amps but the LEDs were still lit, go figure.


I think with the dry charge batteries you need to add more acid, whereas if you convert a wet charged battery the acid is already formed on the plates so you don't have to add the acid.


I've now added another 1.5mL of acid to each cell and charged it up. This time it levelled off at 16.0v and rested at 11.3v, so it's getting closer to the range I want it at impedance wise.


Hope this helps some people.


John K.