How to Make a Bedini Crystal Battery

[Branch Gordon]

Just bought some! $3.74 for 100 strips on ebay. Thanks Fausto!

Good work Gordon,

lovely lights very powerful. Your meter seems to be cooked. I bought [ATTACH=CONFIG]899[/ATTACH]this in ebay and the price is amazing.

Fausto.

[plengo]

Good work Gordon,

lovely lights very powerful. Your meter seems to be cooked. I bought this in ebay and the price is amazing.

Fausto.

[Branch Gordon]

Update on alum battery progress. I run through the PH Meter re-calibration, adding SO4 to my battery, etc.

[hartiberlin]

Hi All,

great results with the latest oscillator recharging..

Makes me wonder, if it would not be best to use all batteries
with a pulsed discharge circuit, so always the batteries are
discharged using pulses and using BackEMF to recharge them on the fly...

Somehow like this also work the Newman motors and thus the batteries
work so long....

Anyway, I wonder why the ALUM converted lead batteries are called alkaline batteries
as I have measured the PH level of my last tests to be PH level 4 to 5 from
the Alum-Epsonsalt mix...

Have not had the time to measure ALum only, cause I am on vaccation
and constantly on the move.... but will do it soon.

Regards, Stefan

[plengo]

Mr. Bedini,

my cell is number 3 in ph. I will measure very soon the resistance. I just don't want to stop the cell connected to my scope for one more night. It is still running.

Fausto.

[nickle989]

Destined to be converted. Not enough hours in the day! Coffee fix not working.

[Branch Gordon]

This is the model I bought: Hanna Instruments HI 98103B Beer pH Tester,with Replaceable Electrode: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I don't have any tape...but don't mind getting some. What are you using to test PH? I could return mine and get the one you have that way there is some consistency.

I originally added only alum. Later on I added 1ml of sulfuric acid per your direction. Last night I topped all the cells off with distilled water. So that's what is currently in the battery. You can see the curve I just finished in my recent post.

Branch,
Do you have PH Tape, and what is the meter used for. Lets start over with this. I can find many different Ph meters. You started with Alum did you add anything else like Sodium Silicate?

[John_Bedini]

Branch,
Do you have PH Tape, and what is the meter used for. Lets start over with this. I can find many different Ph meters. You started with Alum did you add anything else like Sodium Silicate?

[Branch Gordon]

Ok...after a brief convo with John K...I've concluded that my PH reader is not giving an accurate reading. I'm gonna re-calibrate again, and test it in some distilled water and also some sulfuric acid to see if it gives me the correct reading for those.

In the meantime, below is my most recent discharge cycle. The red line is after I added the distilled water. The black line is before. So the battery got slightly weaker. So as John said, I need to add more acid and go the other direction. The bad PH reading threw me off.

I'm just gonna add 1ml at a time and run curves until it's right.

[John_Koorn]

Hi JB,

I do understand all of that. This is all information I already have and understand.

I want be sure you arent misreading what my PH was. Its not 6. Its .6 (point 6). So to get to where you are recommending (4) I need to raise the PH.

If I add more acid to an already acidic mix, its going to lower the PH further.

How do I raise the PH with this battery? What am I missing? Unless you are telling me that adding SO4 is going to raise the PH somehow?

Im not getting sidetracked with these other battery discussions. I will be continuing to work with this conversion of mine until I get it right.

Cheers, and so appreciative of your assistance!

Branch, seriously you can not have a pH of 0.6. That would mean that your mix is almost 100% acidic and would burn through just about anything you have. Think about it, a normal lead acid battery has a pH of around 3.5-4 and is made up of 32% SO4 and 68% water, so unless you added a ton of un-diluted SO4 how could the pH be 0.6?

I strongly suggest you get your pH meter checked and read pH - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

John K.

[Branch Gordon]

I am also not quite sure what you mean by the balance working at either end of the chart. I would understand that...but then you go on to say the the PH needs to be specifically at 4 for ion transfer.

If you mean that the PH can be .6 or 8 (either end of the scale), but the cell can be balanced...then that is fine...but that seems to make testing the PH in the first place unnecessary.

Bear with me as I am sorting this out. There seems to be some misunderstanding with what you are trying to communicate.

Do you see how I would be confused?

Hi JB,

I do understand all of that. This is all information I already have and understand.

I want be sure you arent misreading what my PH was. Its not 6. Its .6 (point 6). So to get to where you are recommending (4) I need to raise the PH.

If I add more acid to an already acidic mix, its going to lower the PH further.

How do I raise the PH with this battery? What am I missing? Unless you are telling me that adding SO4 is going to raise the PH somehow?

Im not getting sidetracked with these other battery discussions. I will be continuing to work with this conversion of mine until I get it right.

Cheers, and so appreciative of your assistance!

[Branch Gordon]

Hi JB,

I do understand all of that. This is all information I already have and understand.

I want be sure you arent misreading what my PH was. Its not 6. Its .6 (point 6). So to get to where you are recommending (4) I need to raise the PH.

If I add more acid to an already acidic mix, its going to lower the PH further.

How do I raise the PH with this battery? What am I missing? Unless you are telling me that adding SO4 is going to raise the PH somehow?

Im not getting sidetracked with these other battery discussions. I will be continuing to work with this conversion of mine until I get it right.

Cheers, and so appreciative of your assistance!

[John_Bedini]

Branch,
The balance of the cell can work at either end of the chart. The lead acid battery is going to require that. The PH should be at 4 the chemistry of that battery requires that to allow Ion transfer. The Idea is to just stop the normal sulfating on the lead plates. After that you have a completely different battery. I have tried to explain very carefully what needs to be done here. I have about 20 alum batteries here, they all work and have been working for years, they were once Lead Acid. The thing about the Alum battery is, It stands lower in voltage and acts more like a Ni-cad type battery. Alum is a far different chemical, that mixed with Sodium Silicate and SO4 is then something much different. It would stand to reason that a lead battery would want to be using SO4. But that can be changed by mixing the chemicals. If your not using just straight SO4 then you do not have a lead acid battery. You just need to add enough to make it conductive on the acidic side. The Alum grabs that acid as I have tried to show and turns it to Zeolite, synthetic form in a dry state. You need to be towards the acid side more. If your building a different battery then it may require a completely different PH and chemical. but we are dealing with a "Converted Lead Acid Battery" using a much different chemical mix. You need to be towards a Ph of 4. you can not get any time towards the water side as I said to Fausto. It does not make a difference which side of the field you play ball on as you can always find a balance, for that cell, that is what I mean by balance, SO4 is required in the mix to make that compound conductive for Ion movement.Then and only then will you see the impedance of the cell drop and you will have current flow. The only reason I'm taking the cells here to 1 volt is to prove no damage happens to the battery that would normally happen to the normal Lead Acid battery using straight SO4. All the other Experiments with Crystal cells using Copper and Magnesium are meaningless at this point and should not be confused with the Lead battery your building. Two different batteries and two different chemical mixes.

[Lidmotor]

Replication

@John, Chuck, and All
I successfully replicated the Lead & Zinc rechargeable cell. The cell works just fine. I tested it for couple of days to make sure. Actually I really like it. Here is the patent pending we found that describes the general idea:

LEAD-ZINC BATTERY - Patent application

One of my Youtube commenters told me about it and I told John and Chuck. John picked up on the idea, put his brain and 30+ years of knowledge into it-----and well I think that the rest will be history. The above patent does not specifiy the exact electrolyte that John uses (Alum & sodium carbonate) so what John did becomes unique. Basically the sodium carbonate buffers the situation so that the zinc doesn't get eaten up. The cell in it's basic form is a .63v galvanic (zinc & lead) and you can find out about that if you do a Google search. The zinc is the anode and normally would get eaten up---- but when you turn it into a rechargeable (with the special electrolyte) it becomes a different animal. The reaction can go both ways.

I did more work on my all stainless steel plate material cell and found out that it has already been done. Titanium has also been used. The way that it was done though is a little unusual. The metal grid is made and then coated with a special conductive paint to protect the metal. The lead oxide paste is then applied to the grid. The whole idea was to reduce the overall weight of the battery but it is expensive.

I am still looking into the oscillator recharge effect on these lead cells. Nothing solid to report yet from my kitchen table laboratory.

Lidmotor

[Branch Gordon]

.47 or 4.7? That is a pretty big difference. Looking forward to seeing the results of your test. I felt I was on the right track here but now I am stumped...