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How to Make a Bedini Crystal Battery

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  • LesK,
    Yes you have turned on the light bulb and if I would have had time I would have posted another video to explain to you what is going on. I will try to get it up on youtube tomorrow. This is very important to get everybody to understand. I also want to thank brOnsOn77 for his work too. Also Branch and Lidmotor, James for posting the charts on Alum. You guys are doing great work on all of this. Again locking up the SO4 is a good way to go for more power. The Video will explain that. I wish DadHav would post the video here so everbody could see he has done some Exelent work with Alum.
    John Bedini
    My homepage: http://johnbedini.net

    Comment


    • In this video I’m showing that if the hydrate is correct and is functioning properly. The normal Sulfuric Acid in the cell will lock up in the chemical creating a new synthetic material that is capable of switching with electric current.


      John Bedini
      My homepage: http://johnbedini.net

      Comment


      • Wow your curve on that small battery running the LED load looks very different from mine. I did apply the 1ml SO4 to each cell..and ran a couple new curves. Unfortunately my laptop decided to lock up and I didn't have the file saved...so I'm having to re-do a curve to upload. I DID see an improvement in that I got about .3 more AH out of it. But I have a steep decline in the curve around 9V...where yours seems to kind of stair step down.

        Do you think it's a matter of adding more S04, or do you think I didn't have a strong enough alum mix to begin with to form the crystal?

        Video was a great explanation of what is happening...thank you for doing that. I'm gonna open up my battery so I can see when the water is released, and when it's reabsorbed.

        Is the end result of this conversion, if done right, that the battery will sustain a load for much longer than an identical lead acid? Right now my identical lead acid is putting out twice the AH...

        Curves coming soon...I want to get this right.

        Originally posted by John_Bedini View Post
        In this video I’m showing that if the hydrate is correct and is functioning properly. The normal Sulfuric Acid in the cell will lock up in the chemical creating a new synthetic material that is capable of switching with electric current.


        Comment


        • Branch,
          I want you to remember that I took apart the battery from wall-mart and stuffed with the gel paste that Chuck and I made. So the battery is a little more crystal then yours. I run my own test with the West Mountain Charger. by just putting 0 current in and using it as a meter chart device. I connect the real load to it and watch the curve. Your test has a built in curve for lead acid batteries I think your using that curve. If you would let your curve run out to say 3 volts you would see a much different curve. I have a lab doing some work for me on the Crystal Structure so I know what the material is doing and what it is making.
          Ammonium Aluminum Sulfate is a complement to the SO4 in the battery adding Hydrate 9 or 5 is an added benefit. I can not go into the whole formula until I know exactly what is going on to the T. Over on some other Forums I'm discussed by the great Sea Monkey that is ok but he still has not figured out what really takes place in the cell. I understand that when the text book is involved things are just excepted as truth, that may not be the case here. I also know he follows every video and move I make. He knows the truth what works and what does not work. The exact chemical mix is very important to make the cell do that and supply power for long periods of time down at low levels. After all if your stuck in a sub with no power to run the pumps you would really be in trouble. However, What if the battery could supply a low power in a switch for 5 more hrs, you could get to the surface. Just something to think about. The same thing goes for motors and lights and electronic circuits.
          John Bedini
          My homepage: http://johnbedini.net

          Comment


          • Funny you mentioned the curve...I remembered in an earlier post you said to run a "real-world" load. That's what I'm doing now....I have it hooked up to an inverter which has an LED lamp plugged into it. Charting that curve all the way down to 1V. Will post as soon as it's done. Shooting some video of it too...

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            • Well duh...just realized an inverter won't work because it shuts off when it gets below a certain voltage... Have to find something else...

              Comment


              • Yeah man, that's what I ran into as well. My low battery signal comes on around 10.5 volts. I've managed to run a 7.5 watt LED bulb in a lamp for nearly 4 hours on the inverter. I'm working on trying to bypass the inverter and try making it run off Lasersaber's Joule Ringer 3.0. I'm thinking I could run more lights and longer that way than on an inverter. Here's a video of the alum 12v car battery running it... btw, I managed to get the alum battery sitting above 12 volts. Higher than I thought...

                Last edited by br0ns0n77; 09-30-2012, 08:30 PM. Reason: video

                Comment


                • I'm trying to make one of these earthlights described in the diagram. I purchased all the parts as specified, and put it together, but it doesn't light the LED. The LED I'm using is a 1.8 V, 20 mA Red LED. I've tried testing the circuit by running it off a AA battery (tried both somewhat dead, maybe 1.1 V, and new one). If I measure voltage at the LED pins, I see about .8 V.

                  Fairly certain I have it wired up correctly. . . the inductors I have look almost like resistors. Heck, here is direct links to all the parts I'm using.

                  Transistor: https://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...lkey610-2N2222
                  Inductor: https://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...key70-IM2-J-15
                  Cap: https://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...80-C410C102J5G
                  The LED is a radioshack one. I had purchased some white ones from Mouser, but I screwed up, they're ones that have to be baked or something, they have no contacts.

                  Comment


                  • for anyone having inverter woes... want to run more amps for a load yet keep it efficient and useful.
                    you can run some of those newer 120/240v AC LED 800lumin bulbs off of a fairly simple single transistor setup.
                    follow this thread - start from here and read backward, forward, watch some vids on replications etc.
                    These cells are a perfect match for this light, you can run all the lights in your house, just think outside the box a bit:
                    Joule Ringer! - Page 52
                    kind regards,
                    Patrick

                    Comment


                    • Ok here is the charge curve right after adding 1ml acid to each cell. I then ran a discharge curve with a 1 amp load down to 1V. Kind of a high load...just wanted to see what it would do. My next curve I'm going to run a small PC fan which draws around 127mA.

                      Also, please see the video below I made. I make some comments in it that I might be confused about.

                      I don't think I have the mix right yet. But maybe the curve will look a lot better with a smaller load.

                      Click image for larger version

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                      Comment


                      • Good work man! Yeah the inverter thing sucks...especially since I want to use these batteries tied into my home AC power. Maybe I can find an inverter that doesn't shut off...

                        How many amps is the 7.5 watt LED pulling? Have you charted any curves on it?

                        Originally posted by br0ns0n77 View Post
                        Yeah man, that's what I ran into as well. My low battery signal comes on around 10.5 volts. I've managed to run a 7.5 watt LED bulb in a lamp for nearly 4 hours on the inverter. I'm working on trying to bypass the inverter and try making it run off Lasersaber's Joule Ringer 3.0. I'm thinking I could run more lights and longer that way than on an inverter. Here's a video of the alum 12v car battery running it... btw, I managed to get the alum battery sitting above 12 volts. Higher than I thought...

                        Comment


                        • Thanks man. As far as amps... I suppose it would be calculated like this?

                          120 volt bulb x amps = 7.5 watts - solving that equation it comes out to 16 amps? You would divide 120v by 7.5 watts to get that... I could be wrong.

                          I don't have any charting software unfortunately

                          Originally posted by Branch Gordon View Post
                          Good work man! Yeah the inverter thing sucks...especially since I want to use these batteries tied into my home AC power. Maybe I can find an inverter that doesn't shut off...

                          How many amps is the 7.5 watt LED pulling? Have you charted any curves on it?

                          Comment


                          • It goes the other way...you divide 7.5 watts by the volts to get amps.

                            http://www.supercircuits.com/resourc...Amps-Converter

                            Comment


                            • So 0.0625 amps. Or 62mA?

                              Originally posted by Branch Gordon View Post
                              It goes the other way...you divide 7.5 watts by the volts to get amps.

                              Volts Watts Amps Converter Tool Calculator

                              Comment


                              • Yes, 62mA.

                                Originally posted by br0ns0n77 View Post
                                So 0.0625 amps. Or 62mA?

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