How to Make a Bedini Crystal Battery

[John_Bedini]

LesK,
I have seen that with all crystal batteries, when we were over on the earth lights group if you remember the cell early on picked up that earthquake. Heat and temperature was also detected. Using Epsom Salts is very good at that because the experiment is on youtube when I took all the water out of the cell and after that it only responded to heat. But, I did want to stay away from using a Heptahydrate and only use hydrates to contain the SO4 in the crystal. I know you have been thinking so have we at the shop. It would be easy to run those test but only at the crystal level. that is why Chuck and I are running out that converted battery. what is the problem, is it the Alum you have. This battery runs at a lower voltage then the 12 volts so everything must be re-calculated for Amp hrs. a good one is around 9.7 volts the Willard stands at 11.34 for some reason and it must be the difference in the lead. The chemical engineers have been changing the oxide mixture for a long time.

[LesK]

Lights out...

John B,
I was wondering about what you said, about running LED's for lights. And the voltage you are looking at in relation to the diode junction of the LED's etc.
I began to consider the fact that in an EMP the diode junction breaks down. This got me to thinking about the environmental effects mentioned by Fousto.
And I began to wonder if this battery could charge just by being near something like a coil or motor that is creating an electromagnetic pulse or maybe electrostatic.
I have not had any results to speak of, but thought I might bring this up.

Les

[John_Bedini]

nickle989.
Chuck and I were thinking of doing that but the bi-metal might be a problem. This can be tested to find out. You would need to flux the copper to get the lead on the copper, you could try and let us know how it works.

John B, working on the small form factor, couple of questions, I would like to take a copper fitting and coat the inside with lead from a battery and also have a small plate, I am thinking I would need to condition the cell using acid and charge yes/no ... also do you think there would be an adverse effect from using a "copper" container vs plastic? Not sure if this is the thread to ask the question, move it to the right thread if not.
Thanks.

[John_Bedini]

Anhydrous sodium silicate contains a chain polymeric anion composed of corner shared {SiO4} tetrahedral, and not a discrete SiO32− ion.[1] In addition to the anhydrous form, there are hydrates with the formula Na2SiO3·nH2O (where n = 5, 6, 8, 9) which contain the discrete, approximately tetrahedral anion SiO2(OH)22− with water of hydration. For example, the commercially available sodium silicate pentahydrate Na2SiO3·5H2O is formulated as Na2SiO2(OH)2·4H2O and the nonahydrate Na2SiO3·9H2O is formulated as Na2SiO2(OH)2·8H2O.[2]

Hi John,
Sorry to sound uninformed but what do you mean by 'hydrate 5 or 9' I can't seem to find the right info on what that is, can you please explain what this is to a newbe.
Thanks

[plengo]

Fausto, if you have Sodium Silicate try that in place of the silica gel.

Chuk Hupp

Thank you Chuk. That is what I used. Sorry about the confusion. .Liquid Silica is Sodium Silicate for me.

On the cell on the video I precisely used, 5% Sodium Silicate, 80% Alum, 5% Epson salts (for more H2O locked molecules) and 10% distilled water. (Percentage for volume).

Fausto.

[Branch Gordon]

Aaahh, so that's why my brushless fan pooped out. Time to buy some LED strips!!

Let me order some from superbrightleds.com and I'll run another curve and hopefully it will do the same thing as yours.

Thanks for the explanantion...this is making much more sense now.

Fausto,
That is some good work. Right the idea is to lock the Sulfuric Acid up so it can not harm the plates. That takes place when the chemical is in balance.

@All, in a phone conversation with Lidmotor he said I should explain a little more about this battery. So, The Alum battery is not a lead acid battery, so if you watched the curves I kept saying it runs much lower in level, it's not a 12 volt battery it it's more like a 1.5 volt battery with extended range to power things. do the math 1.5 X 6 =9 Volts and a C20 discharge is going to be .45 Ma. C10 then would be 90Ma so 1 amp is really pushing it but, that is a good test to see if it's just not a water battery. If you go back and look at my early posts I have said it acts more like a Ni-cad battery. So when you see it standing at 9 volts you must adjust the math to conform to the battery voltage level. Alum has the power to do some much different things with the lead acid battery and different metals. The old time lead batteries had two colors to them. Charcoal Gray and Gray. The new mixes in the lead batteries have changed all this, but, the lead calcium battery has those colors. So, as Lidmotor pointed out in the conversation most do not have it figured out yet. Circuits working on this battery must be much lower in voltage. Led's work anywhere between 2.5 to 3.8 volts Transmitter chips, digital chips, 555 timer chips, oscillators diodes and transistors and fets will all work. computers work at 2.5 to 5 volts calculators clocks amplifiers and so on. Why is everything going to low voltage, noise that is why. So if your real careful at what you do you can see what happens when you mix Alum Solution with a little Sulfuric Acid. It will form a crystal if the correct amount is added. So you can see how it locks it up. Think about that. Now if you take the Alum in solution form and mix Sodium Silicate with it what happens? Now add some Hydrate 5 or 9 and Sulfuric Acid what do you have? You can make all this in liquid form. What did I say it was making ?. "And do not go to the auto parts to find the chemicals", except the Sulfuric Acid. Most defiantly you do not have a lead Sulfuric Battery after that.
I will point out again I'm only building this battery for lighting and running oscillators to run lights, so this will light my house at night and charge during the day, I have already wired it, fans work, brushless fans will not trigger after 5 volts so dc motors must be used and you can get them. Everything must be calculated out to work with these cells. The nice part is you can not sulphate this battery it will come right back again and again. The formula has been working here for two years and documented.

[11sprials11]

Hi John,
Sorry to sound uninformed but what do you mean by 'hydrate 5 or 9' I can't seem to find the right info on what that is, can you please explain what this is to a newbe.
Thanks

Fausto,
That is some good work. Right the idea is to lock the Sulfuric Acid up so it can not harm the plates. That takes place when the chemical is in balance.

@All, in a phone conversation with Lidmotor he said I should explain a little more about this battery. So, The Alum battery is not a lead acid battery, so if you watched the curves I kept saying it runs much lower in level, it's not a 12 volt battery it it's more like a 1.5 volt battery with extended range to power things. do the math 1.5 X 6 =9 Volts and a C20 discharge is going to be .45 Ma. C10 then would be 90Ma so 1 amp is really pushing it but, that is a good test to see if it's just not a water battery. If you go back and look at my early posts I have said it acts more like a Ni-cad battery. So when you see it standing at 9 volts you must adjust the math to conform to the battery voltage level. Alum has the power to do some much different things with the lead acid battery and different metals. The old time lead batteries had two colors to them. Charcoal Gray and Gray. The new mixes in the lead batteries have changed all this, but, the lead calcium battery has those colors. So, as Lidmotor pointed out in the conversation most do not have it figured out yet. Circuits working on this battery must be much lower in voltage. Led's work anywhere between 2.5 to 3.8 volts Transmitter chips, digital chips, 555 timer chips, oscillators diodes and transistors and fets will all work. computers work at 2.5 to 5 volts calculators clocks amplifiers and so on. Why is everything going to low voltage, noise that is why. So if your real careful at what you do you can see what happens when you mix Alum Solution with a little Sulfuric Acid. It will form a crystal if the correct amount is added. So you can see how it locks it up. Think about that. Now if you take the Alum in solution form and mix Sodium Silicate with it what happens? Now add some Hydrate 5 or 9 and Sulfuric Acid what do you have? You can make all this in liquid form. What did I say it was making ?. "And do not go to the auto parts to find the chemicals", except the Sulfuric Acid. Most defiantly you do not have a lead Sulfuric Battery after that.
I will point out again I'm only building this battery for lighting and running oscillators to run lights, so this will light my house at night and charge during the day, I have already wired it, fans work, brushless fans will not trigger after 5 volts so dc motors must be used and you can get them. Everything must be calculated out to work with these cells. The nice part is you can not sulphate this battery it will come right back again and again. The formula has been working here for two years and documented.

[Chuck Hupp]

Hey Chuck,

I used a tiny little bit of Silica liquid with the Alum and distilled water.

Fausto.

Fausto, if you have Sodium Silicate try that in place of the silica gel.

Chuk Hupp

[nickle989]

John B, working on the small form factor, couple of questions, I would like to take a copper fitting and coat the inside with lead from a battery and also have a small plate, I am thinking I would need to condition the cell using acid and charge yes/no ... also do you think there would be an adverse effect from using a "copper" container vs plastic? Not sure if this is the thread to ask the question, move it to the right thread if not.
Thanks.

[John_Bedini]

Just an update where this cell is acting like a crystal battery

[John H]

Like I said ...and NOW school begins! Thank you ALL.

John and Chuck.....

[John_Bedini]

Fausto,
That is some good work. Right the idea is to lock the Sulfuric Acid up so it can not harm the plates. That takes place when the chemical is in balance.

@All, in a phone conversation with Lidmotor he said I should explain a little more about this battery. So, The Alum battery is not a lead acid battery, so if you watched the curves I kept saying it runs much lower in level, it's not a 12 volt battery it it's more like a 1.5 volt battery with extended range to power things. do the math 1.5 X 6 =9 Volts and a C20 discharge is going to be .045 Ma. C10 then would be .090Ma so 1 amp is really pushing it but, that is a good test to see if it's just not a water battery. If you go back and look at my early posts I have said it acts more like a Ni-cad battery. So when you see it standing at 9 volts you must adjust the math to conform to the battery voltage level. Alum has the power to do some much different things with the lead acid battery and different metals. The old time lead batteries had two colors to them. Charcoal Gray and Gray. The new mixes in the lead batteries have changed all this, but, the lead calcium battery has those colors. So, as Lidmotor pointed out in the conversation most do not have it figured out yet. Circuits working on this battery must be much lower in voltage. Led's work anywhere between 2.5 to 3.8 volts Transmitter chips, digital chips, 555 timer chips, oscillators diodes and transistors and fets will all work. computers work at 2.5 to 5 volts calculators clocks amplifiers and so on. Why is everything going to low voltage, noise that is why. So if your real careful at what you do you can see what happens when you mix Alum Solution with a little Sulfuric Acid. It will form a crystal if the correct amount is added. So you can see how it locks it up. Think about that. Now if you take the Alum in solution form and mix Sodium Silicate with it what happens? Now add some Hydrate 5 or 9 and Sulfuric Acid what do you have? You can make all this in liquid form. What did I say it was making ?. "And do not go to the auto parts to find the chemicals", except the Sulfuric Acid. Most defiantly you do not have a lead Sulfuric Battery after that.
I will point out again I'm only building this battery for lighting and running oscillators to run lights, so this will light my house at night and charge during the day, I have already wired it, fans work, brushless fans will not trigger after 5 volts so dc motors must be used and you can get them. Everything must be calculated out to work with these cells. The nice part is you can not sulphate this battery it will come right back again and again. The formula has been working here for two years and documented.

[plengo]

Hey Chuck,

I used a tiny little bit of Silica liquid with the Alum and distilled water.

Fausto.

[Chuck Hupp]

@ fausto, not asking that you disclose your mix but are you using silica gel of some type in you new lead cells?

Chuck Hupp

[Branch Gordon]

Yes, that's what I'm saying is that I already had acid in my battery.

Are you sure there's not an app for that...

Branch

Branch, not sure how you would charge up the battery before converting it without any electrolyte. I don't recall that in John's videos. I know he mentioned to do that if you already had acid in the battery.

The pH meter I got from a garden store ages ago. It's just like one of these but mine is analog, not powered. Digital Soil PH Meter Probe - Garden Express
Not sure if its the best for our purpose but its what I had on hand.

I'll upload my discharge curve when I get to work, can't do it on an iPad on the train

John K.