How to Make a Bedini Crystal Battery

[Branch Gordon]

Good info! Thanks! I am planning on using my gas stove burner as the heat source. Think that will work okay?

Copper mag cell,, I will try to link it below.

http://www.energyscienceforum.com/showthread.php?t=1039




Sorry I cannot help with that one. I built the cells but did not make an oscillator for them, not yet anyway. I just put mine in series to get the voltage I want to run an LED or whatever. Mine put out a good 1.5 volts each so two in series drives LED's decently.

[BobZilla]

I have only used the torch but yes I'm sure it will do fine. Look for those rainbow colors I was describing, just after you see those it will change flat grey and that is the best time to stop heating, at least in my experience.

[Branch Gordon]

I've been reading that the surface area of the leads in contact with the crystal mixture is what affects amperage. So larger surface area = more current. How far does this scale up? I've seen a video of some larger copper-mag batteries that John and Chuck built. What can those put out compared to the smaller 3" bowl batteries that I'm going to try?

[BobZilla]

My experiments are not complete in that area but let me share some general findings.

When I first started making these I tried to scale up for more current. What I did was take three 1/2 inch copper pipes about 3 inches long and connect them together. The idea was that I would have a lot of surface area. I buried those in a plastic container filled with Alum with three magnesium rods also connected together to make one large cell. The design was different from the bowl, and the one I make now but same basic principle. They worked and they did have slightly more current but not worth the trouble. Now these were nothing close to the size of Mr. Bedini's large bowls but they were at least 10 times the size of my current model. In my case scaling up did not really help much. You can hook cells in parallel to get more current or series for more voltage though.

Over all I have found these copper mag cells to be great for running small loads like LED'S. I tried using a bunch of them to run a really small solid state coil I have but it just was not enough current to drive a mjl21194. As you already know you can drive a small 2222 though. Scaling up did not work out so well for me but I did not go at it very hard, perhaps with more effort it could be more effective.

[Branch Gordon]

Interesting. I think I read that in parallel the impedance is super high though right?

If they are best suited for lower power loads I'll be happy with that. Free power is free power...I can find a LOT of uses for these batteries.

What I'm really curious about is if I can hook them up to one of these new solar trackers. John B said you can hook up a DC power source, as long as you don't exceed the current rating of the tracker. Curious if that scenario would work at all...

My experiments are not complete in that area but let me share some general findings.

When I first started making these I tried to scale up for more current. What I did was take three 1/2 inch copper pipes about 3 inches long and connect them together. The idea was that I would have a lot of surface area. I buried those in a plastic container filled with Alum with three magnesium rods also connected together to make one large cell. The design was different from the bowl, and the one I make now but same basic principle. They worked and they did have slightly more current but not worth the trouble. Now these were nothing close to the size of Mr. Bedini's large bowls but they were at least 10 times the size of my current model. In my case scaling up did not really help much. You can hook cells in parallel to get more current or series for more voltage though.

Over all I have found these copper mag cells to be great for running small loads like LED'S. I tried using a bunch of them to run a really small solid state coil I have but it just was not enough current to drive a mjl21194. As you already know you can drive a small 2222 though. Scaling up did not work out so well for me but I did not go at it very hard, perhaps with more effort it could be more effective.

[alfinip2000]

Do we need to fired the copper ? I've seen on youtube,that JB bigger bowl is only copper without heating it...and also chuck h use normal copper (not fired) ... Ive made non fired and fired cooper for my crystal battery,so far the result is similar,also i found corrosion.on the Mg but this is the best compare to the power output and longetivity... Mine get 1.8v and +-500-700ma when wet
cheers
Alfin

[lcstier]

Branch, Tom C
I got to talk to my chemist customer and she didn’t see anything dangerous so I mixed up the chemicals (Branch’s list, the cheaper hydrate) with JB ratios. I did not let the chemicals set and length of time before I added the next chemical. I did not want the mixture to gel as Tom said his did. I added the mix to the same brand/battery 4.0Ah, as I did the Alum only with a small amount of SO4 so I could see the difference. The mixture never did completely gel but is thicker than the first battery. I will run some charge/discharge graphs and post them when I can. After I mixed the chemicals I did a PH test the result was almost a 4. I’ll have to play around with the chemicals to get it to a 5 and to get thicker.
Also my chemist customer said to make sure you wear gloves and eye protection and have baking soda around so you can nullify any spills or if you get some of the chemicals on you. I also used the baking soda in the blender after I was finished to nullify anything left.
Linnie

[lcstier]

The new 4 chemical battery looks to be a bust. It has less than half the energy as the Alum with a little of the SO4. I'll keep charging and discharging and see what happens but it doesn't look good.
Linnie

[Branch Gordon]

Yeah I remember reading that they will get stronger as they form. What are you using as a load?

If it doesn't get stronger that sucks. Thank you for taking the time to try this so others can either duplicate or avoid.

Branch

The new 4 chemical battery looks to be a bust. It has less than half the energy as the Alum with a little of the SO4. I'll keep charging and discharging and see what happens but it doesn't look good.
Linnie

[lcstier]

Here are the discharge graphs done on a CBA at 200mA. The Alum battery will settle around 11.30 volts after charging. The 4 chemical will settle around 10.60
Linnie

[Branch Gordon]

Try running the CBA in charge monitor mode, and running a real load...like maybe some LED's that total about 200mA so it's similar. I think John said somewhere that the CBA discharge works differently with the crystal cells... The charge monitor mode will track the discharge curve too.

Here are the discharge graphs done on a CBA at 200mA. The Alum battery will settle around 11.30 volts after charging. The 4 chemical will settle around 10.60
Linnie[ATTACH=CONFIG]2777[/ATTACH]

[lcstier]

Next week I'll try the discharge with a 47 Ohm resister which gives a 225mA starting point. However the mA gets less with voltage so it's not exactly the same since the CBA is constant current. I post graphs after.
Linnie

[Branch Gordon]

Yeah I noticed that too when testing my alum batteries...that they lost mA gradually. But my curves looked very different than with using the CBA.

[lcstier]

Branch,
Here are the two discharge charts. One is with the CBA at 200mA the other with a 75 Ohm resister. The red lines are with the CBA, the green lines are with the 75 Ohm resister. Hope this helps.
Linnie

[Branch Gordon]

I am no expert on these, but that looks like what I would expect. Are you seeing any improvement in performance after each cycle?

Branch,
Here are the two discharge charts. One is with the CBA at 200mA the other with a 75 Ohm resister. The red lines are with the CBA, the green lines are with the 75 Ohm resister. Hope this helps.
Linnie

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2803[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2803[/ATTACH]