Solid State Bedini Energizer Replictaion

[Joster]

Hi All! Happy New Year!

I can't find my original post so here is an update on my ss ssg.

http://youtu.be/cvkEcTP5lt8

[axxelxavier]

Happy New Year to all!

Alum with the SG OSC is the way to go.

@BroMikey, is it complicated to convert a lead acid battery to alum? how did you do it? just cleaned a few times with distilled water and filled with alum and water 1/8 or 1/10?
I hope my ammonium alum (Reagent for analysis) it's good for this conversion, see below -

NH4Al(SO4)2 12H2O %min 99
(Cl) %max 0,0005
(Pb) %max 0.001
(Fe) %max 0,0003

more information here - the file it's in romanian language, but technical data it's easy to understand...

I just got 100 one watt led's and some materials to make special lighting....After keeping batteries alive with good success I am working to light the house with half of my batteries....

I made myself my special lights with 1 watt leds - I just hate to lose current with the invertors. My smallest invertor have a 250 miliamps current draw WITH NO LOAD.
Instead, a custom lamp made from 4 x 1 wat leds in series, running at 12-13 volt makes a difference, those leds are drawing only 200-250 miliamps (undervolting) and no heat on the protection resistor (0,5 - 1 ohm). Not to mention the light it's similar to 3 x 1Watt leds drived at full current draw - 350 miliamps. Also, in 4 led lamp there are no heat loses from the step down resistor. I think I can drive the light from my small apartment only with a 50-60 Amp/Hour car battery.
If you are interested, I can show how I did my linear led lamps.
Best regards,
Teodor

[Branch Gordon]

You can dissolve MUCH more alum if the water is very hot. I found this was the only way to get the consistency John described.

[Joster]

Great update

Hey BroMikey! Thanks for responding...glad you dig the vid...

Your 20ah battery should be expected to give no more than say 15ah if that depending on how sulfated. Then later it will MAYBE get bigger.

So 15ah divide 20 for the C20 rate = .75 I would use .5 amps or half amp to get the full 15ah out.

As an example I have several 100ah batteries and I will not load them more than 4 amps. Or I won't get a good calculation later you can take more, keep it the same always for comparisons.

C24 rate is Kool, I use it and the C48 hours rate too.

The most I have gotten out of this battery is 5 amp hours at .5 amps. I am going to keep cycling it and hopefully it gets better.

Heat sink Oh yeah my sink is on steroids, the thing is very thick so i can do short runs at 24vdc @ 5-8amps I have a fan and the whole bit.

Do you mean 24V DC on the input of the charger and you are pulling 5-8 Amps? I assume you would be getting some fast charging?

That reminds me, in one of your videos you mention about pulse charging an alum battery to full charge in minutes. That is awesome!! I have a good pulse charger circuit too so I'll be testing that out forsure.

I can adjust the 2 pots I have on the ss ssg setup and obviously the current goes up or down in respect to the charging. I put a scope on the collector and keep "the sqaure wave going" and seems the draw is around 1 Amp when it does this. Anyway, yeah my MJE13009 get very hot as well as the coil if I run it this way...does that sound right?

Yeah put a sink on her because a shorted battery will reflect all of the power from the energizer right back in your circuit and she will heat up HOT in a flash.

So just to confirm you mean a heat sink is a good idea to protect my circuit.....

That is a massive coil dude I like it.

Thanks! its just about 120 feet or so of cat 5 network wire on a diy spool.

great going keep asking questions and zapping those batteries. Pull the top off some day and flood those cells with ALUM and you will never be the same, of course it is better to wait til the battery dries out first from conventional charging but you can arrange that short session of continuous low current for a few days like a float charge does and all of the water is gone.

Alum with the SG OSC is the way to go.

Wicked! I was unsure if it was possible to convert a gell cell to and alum batt but sounds like it is! That is definately going to happen! I have done one alum converstion in the past but it failed b/c the battery was toast.....very very very sulfated. So you mean pop off the top and put it on a constant charge of what...say 1A? or .5A/? for a few days and dry out the fiberglass mat? Then fill up the cells with alum? Sounds wicked..IIf I understnad this right Im going to test that out asap. I wonder if I could do this to all these 70 amp/hr batts I have? They are all gell cell too. Would it be safe to expect that the capacity would double and charge time would half?

Before I add Alum my batteries all give about half of what they will after conversion. Something to think about.

Heat sinks, fans will protect your investment in the long run, you don't always have to run the fan but I do. I use a tiny 40miliamp CPU fan off a PC, nothing very big.

The fan is on the heatsink right? no tthe coil?

In generator mode the sinks are a must as heat is said to be produced in that setting by the inventor John B.

Is the generator mode what JB talks about in his the Energy from the Vaccum Series? If so, I'll have to go back and review that...Im not sure if I am in that mode or what...just repliacted Patrick's circuit.

So sinks are good and is why John Bedini uses them on his bike wheel kits.

What a man, great progress keep it up.

Next I need a panel and or a small wind generator to power my energizer for free to zap batteries to power LED lights.

I just got 100 one watt led's and some materials to make special lighting, but for now I use 10 watt LED Bulbs that offer 60watts of light. The bulbs are 8-9$ each.

After keeping batteries alive with good success I am working to light the house with half of my batteries while the other half of my batteries are being energized.

Getting large banks all of the way charged in 24hrs is not as easy as it sounds with my small coil. I will add one more unit the same as this one and pulse them both with the same trigger coil at the same time feeding their outputs both into the same battery set.


Is the bank you are using all alum convered batts?

This will double my energizing.


I have big plans too....I have six new sppols from rcharge and ten yellow caps....I figure I will build six...that should be good hahaha

talk soon!

Joster

[Joster]

Also, forgot to ask if you have any ss sg energizers that run on a standard ac-to-dc supply? say a 12v 1.5 amp wall plug?

[Joster]

Amazing....going to the store right now for some alum....seriously!

also added my cap pulser to my set up last night ill do a vid soon...want to have a switch so I can do either radiant or pulse at the flick of a switch....talk soon

you da man!

[axxelxavier]

Well let us look at the Alum Battery. John Bedini (our Main man) has shown me in his conversions he just pours the powder out till it gives a slippery feel between your fingers.Mikey

Thank you, Mike. I tried with 5 cups of Alum an 10 cups of distilled water, until I've got that slippery feel.

If you have well used AGM batteries remember they are probably low on power all of the time and are about dried out.

Yeah, I do have some door stops AGM batteries, and I did tried to convert them (somehow) to alum, with not much luck. Actually, the procedure was a success, I just added alum on top of the batteries, but they wasn't quite dried, so it's a hybrid conversion, I suppose. The discharge it's linear, like a an alum battery, but I'm loosing power very quickly, on those old AGM batteries. Only 20 minutes last my converted battery, from 15,2 volt to 9,9 volt, at C4 load (1,7 Amp/hour for a 7,2 amp/hour rated battery (I know it's a kind of brutal test, but I'm not going do spend all my times watching voltages of those old AGM batteries). At C4 discharge, a new 7 Amp/hour battery should stand 2 hours at 50 percent depth of discharge, so my converted battery it's now at 10 percent of capacity, because it last only 20 min. Please correct me, if I am wrong. Any way, I will try to charge it with other SSG, actually my smallest oscillator. We will see.

Yes I want to know how you did your LED's are you kidding? Hey Teodor I have never even known about the resistor but I did see them in lights I took apart now that you mention it. Surging power grid spikes require it but on a battery? Maybe on connect? The power spike occurs?

Actually, the led it's driven with current, so the resistor it's necessary to limit the quantity of current for each configuration.
You can find here and here some good led array calculators.
In my configuration, I use this led (3,4 volts, 350 miliamps):



So I wounded 4 leds in series, that's 4x3.4 = 13,6 volts, normally needed for full brightness. At 12,7 - 12,9 volts, which is the most common standing voltage of a normal battery, clearly, the led array it's undervolted so the light it's almost similar with a 3 led in series array, at full current draw. In that last case, a rezistor is a MUST, and by heating of the resistor we are going to lose power for no reason. In the 4 led formation, the resistor is for protection only, but a 1 ohm or 0,5 ohm will be enough to make sure you are not going to have a bad surprise (imagine your led array connected without protection on a battery supercharged at 15,5 volts...).
So, how do I did it?
This it's my first try:



I just made 4 holes with 4 mm depth in a 8 mm thick plexiglass, which was sanded with medium abrasive paper, so the light of the leds will not blind you.
In the holes will enter only the led bulb, the clear part of the led (not the entire led), I've soldered all the wires from leds, continued at the + terminal with a 0,5 ohm 5 watt rezistor (a smaller wattage will be fine, because only 250 miliamps will flow through resistor).
Of course, after 30 minutes, the leds was very hot, and was starting to flicker. I've discovered that a heat dissipation it's a must here, so, I attached the leds on a aluminium radiator (from an old power supply) with poxipol, or anything that resist to heat. This idea it's not mine, It's from internet taken, and it's brilliant.

Ok, based on what I've learned from first led lamp, here's the second, and improved lamp - the leds are mounted in line, with a bigger distance between them, on a aluminium profile 190 mm x 19 mm (enough thermal dissipation for heavy use), with a side switch, and with the top covered with a 3-4 mm sanded Plexiglas, mounted with superglue or screws

Details in next post.

[axxelxavier]

Materials needed:
- 1 watt leds
- aluminium profile (any available shape - simple band or U profile, from old PSU etc) - used for lead heat dissipation;
- plexiglass thicker, better, but any thickness will work - for light polarization, anti-blindness shield;
- wires for connecting leds - I use some 20 AWG wires, recovered from old PSU;
- thermal contractible tube - for isolation of the connection;
- resistor - in 4 led array, 0.5-1 ohm it's enough - for protection of the led array<
- small switch - on/off
and so on - no need to list all the usual tools used

About the first picture -ignore the machining of the plexiglas, it's from other project, any simple plexiglass will be fine.

1. Prepare the aluminium bad - make the mounting hole (eventually make the threads with the 4 mm tap); make the switch hole (the switch I used need a 6,5 mm diameter mounting surface); mark the signs for mounting the leds, at 35, 75, 115 and 155 mm;
2. Prepare the plexiglass - sand the top and the bootom with medium thickness abrasive paper, until u are satisfied; eventually make the hole for easy mount on top of the aluminium profile:



3. preparing and making the wiring:
- cut 3 x 4 cm wires (for connecting leds), 1 x 3 cm (short switch wire) remove isolation and solder the heads;
- cut the thermal shrinking tube in 10 mm pieces, and insert them in wires;
- straighten the terminal of the leds;



- solder all the connection



to be continued...

[axxelxavier]

4. Test the led array with a battery it's always a good idea, before shrinking the thermal tube and mounting on aluminum support. Now we can add a protection resistor - 1 ohm 1/2 wat will be enough (I used 2 x 1ohm resistors in parallel)



5. Here comes the tricky part - adjusting the shapes of wires in aluminium profile - you don't want every led to act like a resort when it's time to use our magic glue.



6. Use just a small grain of poxipol (or whatever glue) on every led place, and pres and hold leds in position for 2 minutes, for glues to set



7. Attach connections for the battery, and you are done.



The piece of plexiglas it's from another project, so forget about the circles insides. You can decide if you want to set your led lamp with screws, or just attach the plexiglas top simply with a few drops of super glue.

[axxelxavier]

In the end, just a few more pictures:



There are also, other ways to do the job, or to customize even more the led lamp:
- small pieces of aluminium used for transistors, with a led inside, mounted directly on the plexiglas with screw, all wounded in series, or whatever you want;
- you can add a supplementary led, if you need, like I do, some small night light - the array will be even more undevolted, and the current draw it's in miliamps range... and the light it's quite bright, for a night light... but you will need 3 wires, not 2 (with 2 wires you can do it, though, with another resistor).

Anyway, I have to say that this kind of led lamp it's a great find mostly for a small living area, like an apartment or a small house - for bigger houses the wiring can be tricky. For bigger areas, each room can have his own small solar panel, to feed a 10-15 amp/hour battery.

For a medium room, I think 4 lamps it's more than enough, and you can use mostly 2, and turn on the other 2 when needed.
With a medium battery (an old 60 amp/hour), I run lights from dinning room and kitchen for almost a week, I have to check the total current draw, but I think it's around 1 amp/hour with all four lamps on. Only catch it's to use each time the switch - I am running the lights, for example, in the night light mode, until morning, so current draw it's almost invisible (around 20 miliamps).


If there is something to explain more, be my guest.

Best regards, Teodor.

P.S. I'm constantly reading all the posts, but I'm only posting when I have something to say or ask from people more experienced than me.
And this long episodic post is my way to share with everybody what I think it's really interesting.

[axxelxavier]

@BroMikey,
I'm glad you like it. There are even more ways to do the job, and the lamps to look better. You can buy, for example, some circular AC led spots, and to modify them to work on 12 volts.
But I'm telling you, this stuff it's a little different, it looks more like a neon led lamp, if you now what I mean. The light cover a bigger area, compared with the light from spot led's, which it's focused on a limited area only. You can make even a bigger lamp, with 8 to 16 led's, in a series/parallel configuration, and it will be enough for lighting a medium size room, with the cost of only 1 amp/hour current draw at full power (when needed, of course, because you can always switch your custom lamp to desired power).
Nice finding, about the glue with metal dust, it should be even better for heat dissipation. Just curious, this glue it's not conducing electricity, right?

It would be sad to see your Led fall off in a few days.

Actually, I did tested heat dissipation of 3 led's configuration + resistor 33 ohm 3 watt, driven at almost full current on my aluminium profile, and they are working for a month +.
About the 4 led's configuration, they are working in my dinning room for 2 month +, without any visible heat, and they are turned on around 6 hours a day, in this winter light time. Still, I need 2 more lamps, in order to finish the job.

L.E. The last picture it's with the fifth led on - the night light mode

By the way, I did measure the night light current draw (kitchen + dinning room) - 11 miliamps, and the light it's quite impressive.

Alum batteries take time to come back to life but like any OLD battery it might be a lost cause, HUH?

Yeah, I suppose I have to let them go, it's time to focus on big ones. Maybe I will try to convert a 50 amp battery flooded lead acid battery. The main problem, however, it's to dispose safely the neutralized acid, but I will find soon a way.

I will talk more later the kids are in my ear.

I know how it is. Actually, my older boy saw me when I did this tutorial, and told me: „This led light is for our room, right?”
Best regards,
Teodor

[Joster]

Here's the update!

http://youtu.be/bzDvA_KKsPg

[geoffrey sr miller]

Hi John B.

Just got your solar tracker 12 vdc @ 10 amps. today in the mail.

? for you before I plug it in.

It Shows in your videos that it has a RE SET switch on the front of the unit and a ON & OFF switch in the back.

The unit that you sent me did NOT have them on the unit.

The owners manual says MAKE SURE ALL SWITCHES ARE OFF BEFORE YOU PULG IT IN.


1 This unit should have the switches on it?

2 Will it work with out it ?

3 Are the holes in the bottom for are flow for the fan on top ?

3 pics below

Tried calling you but your phone mailbox is not set up.

John Please call 215-910-1193 and I hope you are well and have Great New Year 2014
E- Mail nt@energybat.com

Thanks Geoffrey

[Tom C]

1- no
2- yes
3- yes

your device will work fine hook up the charge battery then the solar panel.

Tom C

[ErikN]

Hi John B.

Just got your solar tracker 12 vdc @ 10 amps. today in the mail.

? for you before I plug it in.

It Shows in your videos that it has a RE SET switch on the front of the unit and a ON & OFF switch in the back.

The unit that you sent me did NOT have them on the unit.

The owners manual says MAKE SURE ALL SWITCHES ARE OFF BEFORE YOU PULG IT IN.


1 This unit should have the switches on it?

2 Will it work with out it ?

3 Are the holes in the bottom for are flow for the fan on top ?

3 pics below

Tried calling you but your phone mailbox is not set up.

John Please call 215-910-1193 and I hope you are well and have Great New Year 2014
E- Mail nt@energybat.com

Thanks Geoffrey

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2924[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2925[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2926[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]2927[/ATTACH]

Hi Geoffrey,

The unit you received is the latest Solar Tracker which has some updates from when the manual was printed.

The reset button has been moved internally and automatically resets itself if tripped; there are no switches on the latest model and it should work just fine out of the box. You are correct that the additional holes are for airflow.

Regards,
Erik