R-Charge Window Motor

[SixtythreeXKE]

Greetings, John:
The trick is not to use reed switches, like some do, to turn on drive voltages (although you do get some nice sparks with concomitant radiant spikes). The trick is to use reeds to send only bare minimum turn-on voltage to power transistor bases. Thus you can use almost no current and very low voltage through the reeds, and they function much like Hall sensors this way, without using even the small power the Halls need. When a reed is open, you really have NO current drain at all. The reeds run fast and last a long time when used only for minimum turn-on voltages.

Warmest regards
Carl Hurst

[SixtythreeXKE]

John:
I really do like your idea of using the stitch winding for a stator, then have an outside armature, like the magnet arrangment in most small engine magnetos and older motorcycle magnetos, where the magnets are attached to the inside diameter of a cup. Of course, if you want torque, go with a very large radius. Then you not only get the great efficiency of the A-field motor, but the added power from the moment arm from the diameter of the armature. As Lon Chaney said: "Ah, Very, very clever, no. 1 son." The wire notches must be pretty wide, as you want substantial bundles in there, with some appreciable "surface area" of parallel wires facing the magnets. You want a pretty good, dense curled flux field right on the surface of that stator at each notch. Then, if you REALLY want to zero out the Lenz effect, then you insert the magnets so that the sides of the magnets face inward, such that the magnets are in magnetic "series" (NSNSNSNS) around the inside of the armature, with appreciable gaps between, say at least three wire bundle widths. Then you not only get a strong repulsion from the primary North curl flux, but also an attraction to the upcoming magnet's south face. Yeeowza. No I want to build one...

Warmest regards and thanks for sharing your great ideas!
Carl Hurst

[SixtythreeXKE]

Or what if someone were able to combine a G-field Kromrey device with an iron reluctance motor. When one looks closely, the Kromrey device is only a hair's breadth away from a reluctance motor already! My word, the mind reels at the possibilities... Cogs are spinning, bearings are smoking, gaskets are leaking, we're about to throw a rod...
Carl Hurst

[DadHav]

Greetings, John:
The trick is not to use reed switches, like some do, to turn on drive voltages (although you do get some nice sparks with concomitant radiant spikes). The trick is to use reeds to send only bare minimum turn-on voltage to power transistor bases. Thus you can use almost no current and very low voltage through the reeds, and they function much like Hall sensors this way, without using even the small power the Halls need. When a reed is open, you really have NO current drain at all. The reeds run fast and last a long time when used only for minimum turn-on voltages.


Warmest regards
Carl Hurst

Hello Carl. Thank you for taking so much time and sharing your ideas. Yes, I feel the same respect for John but have to say at times I tend to be a slight burr under the saddle. Ya, know it's a shame you can't just record some of the comments so people can understand the demeanor associated with the comment. Yes, of course, I should have thought of the reeds as sort of a Darlington configuration or low current. Hey lets have some fun. You mentioned on-time with magnets. Lets see if John is reading this and has a lab note someplace. Sometime in the future I would like to make a window motor commutator with magnets and hall effect sensors. Pretty common but I want to put the magnets on two symmetrical disks that can be rotated. With a hall switch you can turn the pulse on with magnets on the front disk then turn it off with the magnets on the back disk. You could set any degree of on time that you would like. What would you call that? a Mechanical Pulse Width Modulated Commutator? Ha, I share your interest in running one motor with another. You can see this all over my videos. I have used my very efficient window motor to turn a stator motor which is almost zero cogging. The stator motor activates it's associated SSG circuit without having an input on the circuit. Just a capacitor in place of the input battery happens to charge and run the circuit. I was hoping I could get more radiant potential from the stator motor than what potential was required to run the window motor. I'm probably way off track and just provide a chuckle for those who really know what their doing but you can get an idea of what I was thinking of here if you haven't been on my channel.
High Voltage Without DC Power Supply II - YouTube
I think I share your view even though I'm not totally familiar with the Kromre or G Field. I've looked at drawings but never made one.
Ya, sure, you betcha. A big, fast, efficient large diameter outrunner runningspinning a G-field would be plenty enough fun for a while.
It's great to finally be able to talk with you and John. I'm really happy when I'm working on some kind of machine that hasn't bean made and tested already. I keep hoping someday to discover something that's not on the note pad someplace. Ha, lots of luck with that one right?
Take care Carl and thanks for sharing the family comments. I can see where your heart is at. I hope we can talk more about these ideas. I'm not sure if we're on the right thread or even if we might be over stepping our boundaries, maybe someone will advise us.
John Hav

[DadHav]

Or what if someone were able to combine a G-field Kromrey device with an iron reluctance motor. When one looks closely, the Kromrey device is only a hair's breadth away from a reluctance motor already! My word, the mind reels at the possibilities... Cogs are spinning, bearings are smoking, gaskets are leaking, we're about to throw a rod...
Carl Hurst

My word, my mind is rockin and a-reelin. I think if someone had a phenomenal G-field or Kromrey the prime mover could be built right in so it's a one piece unit.
John Hav

[min2oly]

John Hav,
The reeds in this motor do not limited the speed I was just coasting it, I will do another video at very high speed, I can run it at speeds that will burn the bearings up, I really do not want to do that to the motor. I will make a simple one to show how to do it. During the moving from one shop to another the first motors got destroyed.

John B.,
Thank you for sharing this version of the Zero force build. It never occurred to me to use the toroid - now that I see it, I can see that it was in plain sight.
Is that a soft iron toroid?
is the toroid a complete circle, or is it broken with a slight gap?
what gauge, ohms is the wire?
I finally have some matched mjls for the full bipolar switch, I'll be trying them out with our various builds and very much want to replicate the zero force as well. Thank you for personally taking the time on this forum and for sharing so much. I might be slow as a turtle, with my mind on a goal, I never give up.
Kind regards ,
Patrick

[Jeffrey Joseph]

Hello everyone
I have two tiny motors. one is original with large mags, the other is modified with small neo mags all north. I want to use the original window motor as a motor and run the other as an energizer.
Is there a diagram of an electronic circuit that will run this?
I've been having sooo much fun with this stuff. I have a drill press in the living room. Do I need therapy?
Thanks guys for all your help. Happiness and Joy from Jeffs porch in Hilo.

[Jeffrey Joseph]

Thanks evreyone for the diagram. I will go to DadHav u tube and take a look Thanks again Jeff

[DadHav]

DadHav,
The 470 Ohm resistors are in the circuit to make sure the base emitter circuit turn off. The circuit was taken from a full Complementary Symmetry Amplifier Ron and I built ( Class B) . You always drive the load in this circuit from the collectors, because of the impedance of the coils. however for power you must build the circuit using Darlington on the PNP side and the NPN side. The full wave bridge is directly across the collectors of the N and The P device, or the Coil. The circuit is arranged to isolate the power supply BEMF is routed to the capacitor and then returned to the battery, for extended run time. If you charge the capacitor and pulse the primary battery the motor must be completely off and then Joules are important stored in the capacitor but you must be at double the battery voltage for the pulse dis-charge to either the primary battery or the secondary battery. You must look at this circuit as an amplifier . People for some reason do not see this, the same applies with the SG circuit. The coil in the circuit is an impedance and it must be calculated that way in terms of gain to the circuits, and that gain is applied to the battery, impedance wise. I think people are missing the point of what the circuit really is, if you wind 3 coils together on the same form, they are all independent charging circuits, think about what I just said here.
The BEMF is much lower then the battery voltage, so the spike is charging the cap in time, so time charging. I do know your work and it is excellent, AAA+John Bedini

I have a generator coil on a stator motor that can run small loads without the mechanical oscillator changing speed or the input current going down. In the video there is the little alum battery running the stator motor. It's running at about 165 ma. The bulb is incandescent and draws about 75 milliamp. When I add the bulb parallel to the input battery the current draw goes up over 200 ma, but when I put the bulb on the output (generator coil & FWBR) the current drops from the 165 ma to about 135 or something like that. The motor RPM stays the same and the current transition shows up on the battery as it recovers accordingly. OK so I'm thinking if one coil runs a load and decreases the amount of current then, two should be better right? Anyway see what you think. Maybe Carl will like this also, he likes all the different kinds of motors.
Free Energyy From Generator Coil - YouTube
Hope you enjoy the short clip. I took it out of the hour long video I ended up with but haven't posted.
Take care all
John Hav

[min2oly]

John B.,
Thank you for sharing this version of the Zero force build. It never occurred to me to use the toroid - now that I see it, I can see that it was in plain sight.
Is that a soft iron toroid?
is the toroid a complete circle, or is it broken with a slight gap?
what gauge, ohms is the wire?
I finally have some matched mjls for the full bipolar switch, I'll be trying them out with our various builds and very much want to replicate the zero force as well. Thank you for personally taking the time on this forum and for sharing so much. I might be slow as a turtle, with my mind on a goal, I never give up.
Kind regards ,
Patrick

I was recently re-watching DVD 2 for the umpteenth time and noticed this zero force toroid build sitting right on the table. Tom Bearden mentioned JB has at least a hundred different builds laying around. Amazing amount of research.
Patrick

[streamingindie]

I was recently re-watching DVD 2 for the umpteenth time and noticed this zero force toroid build sitting right on the table. Tom Bearden mentioned JB has at least a hundred different builds laying around. Amazing amount of research.
Patrick

You guys are inspiring.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate Mr. Bedini and the rest of you here on the forum.
I have learned more from some of these discussions than years of reading and research.

That was one of my favorite Dvds as well.
Over and over and I finally started to get more than just excited.

I am wondering if there will be a source for a kit from someone who actually follows instructions...

I was delighted to find an alternative on the monopole thread.

[Tom C]

You guys are inspiring.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate Mr. Bedini and the rest of you here on the forum.
I have learned more from some of these discussions than years of reading and research.

That was one of my favorite Dvds as well.
Over and over and I finally started to get more than just excited.

I am wondering if there will be a source for a kit from someone who actually follows instructions...

I was delighted to find an alternative on the monopole thread.

yes there will be.
Tom C

[Lester]

Greetings all.

I would like to try and build a similar window motor as Mr. Bedini showed in his video.

I'm planning to drive this with an SSG circuit initially, upgrade to a Bedini-Cole driver once I get it spinning. Reed switches for triggering although I did notice that there were magnets in pairs for triggering in the video, perhaps to make a very wide trigger pulse?

Just air-core coils at the moment..... and still using the same curved magnets from 5 years ago. No super-poles this time although the single magnets' poles are facing each other so that will probably help somewhat.

Comments and warnings appreciated. =)

Regards,
Lester

[Thanos]

Just a question...

I have a generator coil on a stator motor that can run small loads without the mechanical oscillator changing speed or the input current going down. In the video there is the little alum battery running the stator motor. It's running at about 165 ma. The bulb is incandescent and draws about 75 milliamp. When I add the bulb parallel to the input battery the current draw goes up over 200 ma, but when I put the bulb on the output (generator coil & FWBR) the current drops from the 165 ma to about 135 or something like that. The motor RPM stays the same and the current transition shows up on the battery as it recovers accordingly. OK so I'm thinking if one coil runs a load and decreases the amount of current then, two should be better right? Anyway see what you think. Maybe Carl will like this also, he likes all the different kinds of motors.
Free Energyy From Generator Coil - YouTube
Hope you enjoy the short clip. I took it out of the hour long video I ended up with but haven't posted.
Take care all
John Hav

I just saw this video and i noticed something strange.
The leads of the portable multimeter near the circuit are connected to the VOLT measurement inputs. The setting switch is set on VOLT measurement and the screen displays the value in VOLTS.
Why are you stating that you measure miliamps and not volts with this configuration?
With regards,

Thanos

[min2oly]

I just saw this video and i noticed something strange.
The leads of the portable multimeter near the circuit are connected to the VOLT measurement inputs. The setting switch is set on VOLT measurement and the screen displays the value in VOLTS.
Why are you stating that you measure miliamps and not volts with this configuration?
With regards,

Thanos

Hi Thanos,
I don't see what you see? While I can't tell where the leads go, I can clearly see the multimeter on the mA setting. If John were to connect a voltmeter to the output or input using a 12volt source, wouldn't we see a reading of more than 0.063 - 0.230 volts...

Mostly, I've replicated this experiment w/o much problem and very little tuning. Give it a go, it really get's the creative juices flowing.
kind regards,
Patrick