Bedini-Cole 1971 to 1984 built from lab notes WINDOW MOTOR

[ErikN]

Hi All,
There is a problem with the etched cct.
The independence of the two cct halves is Questionable.
Maybe someone can see it.
I'll go over it and redo the redo til wer're fine.
bro d

Could you re-attach your pdf's? I'm not able to view them from your previous post.

Erik

[brodonh]

redo WM cct and WM board.



I made R11 and R12 connect to rails more directly.
This cleared up the problem.

Also made provision for a cap accross the inputs as there is one in the lab notes.

I will build the parallel version and then post it when OK.

bro d

[brodonh]

Hi All,
Here is pic for parallel tranny WM cct.
Built it today and it works.
bro d

[ErikN]

Hi All,
Here is pic for parallel tranny WM cct.
Built it today and it works.
bro d
[ATTACH=CONFIG]3397[/ATTACH]

Great to hear!

Erik

[Tom C]

0ne jumper.. nice work Don.

Tom C

[brodonh]

Hi All,
Question:
In the vid, the winding to go on last has more distance to travel than the first and 2nd.
I can't have same number of turns and also identical resistance.
Which takes precedence ?
Thanks,
bro d

[brodonh]

Hi All,

Made the attached circuit so that I would have short, straight, wide traces to the MJL's.
All pin 1's of MJL's are adjacent to small PNP's
A 1/8" thick heat sink can go between each pair and another on the metal side of the outer one.
This helps with the heat issue with mosfets..........thot to try it here.
Presently waiting for wire. Need about 16lbs and had only 9.65lb on hand.

bro d

[brodonh]

Running with three coils at 36V, .5A.
No heat with the straight base cct.
Heat sinks are in place.
The 3 coils have higher resistance than John K recommended and they will be changed when wire comes.
Resistors instead of pots seems to be better than not being sure where the pots are exactly.

bro d

[brodonh]

Hi All,
Today the top and side "slats" were installed.
Will have the bottom plate installed very soon with drill/tap operation.
Waiting for tooling to use with rotary table to make precision machined timing discs and hall device mounting plate.
The grease is still in the bearings, so may want to get the shields off even with the bearings pressed in with out much work room, and use carb cleaner and shop air to blow it out. They do loosen up when warm.
Keepin' on ,
bro d

PS.couple hours later:
All I need is 4 flat head screws to attach the bottom to the frame ends.
Will have them tomorrow.
I've learned to tack pieces with super glue and then drill through both pieces for perfect alignment.One of the benefits of PVC and superglue. Learned the hard way of course.

[brodonh]

Hi All,
Tried it with recommended R for each winding. (3.8)
It has the turbine sound effect. The sound that you hear and that JB refers to as "like a turbine".
Got the tooling for timing discs, so will focus on that, then, beta matched trannys.
End the the day for me.
Good night,
bro d

[min2oly]

Hi Bro,
Just noticed this thread. I have ricks window B kit. This looks like what you are trying to replicate. it's a great kit to run many experiments w/ and a great torque motor.
I am posting this comment in hopes of getting some feedback from John B. or someone else in the know.
I remember reading a post either from JB himself or some one right next to him that the geometry on this kit was all wrong. My thinking on that was this will never be a self-runner. I am hoping that it might get cleared up here what he meant by that statement.
I've played around with it quite a bit, but have not invested in much wire to put my ideas to the test. Too many other things going on.
The coil hence wire is everything aside from the geometry and switch.

Bro, I really like the last ckt layout you designed, very nice!

On the actual board - aren't those leads/wires too small/thin? Also, I couldn't tell where you put the rectifying diodes?
Thanks for sharing this build.
Kind Regards,
Patrick A.

Hi All,
At this point I need some expert advice.
I wound 3 coils, 120T apiece, #19 wire.
In parallel it is an amp hog and not feasable.
In series seems to be the right direction.
I desire to wind 3 coils to run slow and with hi torque.
Do I need to go with parallel:
Many turns
Smaller wire
Or do I need to go series:
#15 or so wire and 350-400T total?

I would greatly appreciate a tip or 2 form John Bedini.
I understand hooking trannies in parallel and beta matching.
I need a master's tip on the coils for torque.
It's hard for me to believe that John B's 10,000rpm machine has coils in parallel.

Speculation from non builders will not help at this point.

The balancing job on the rotor is great.
I had it running at 1350rpm (26lb rotor) the 2 frame end plates were attached to the shaft only, not the the base or to one another.
Totally stable. Also, was able to tune the cct so that at 38v 1.1A there was no heat.
The only heat on the whole rig was the bearings were slightly warm to touch and transferred to the shaft

The 3 coil run pic is the rig running at 1350rpm as discribed.
I'll be making a timing wheel and hall holder that matches the pvc frame.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3369[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]3370[/ATTACH]

Thanks,
bro d

[brodonh]

Hi Bro,
Just noticed this thread. I have ricks window B kit. This looks like what you are trying to replicate. it's a great kit to run many experiments w/ and a great torque motor.
I am posting this comment in hopes of getting some feedback from John B. or someone else in the know.
I remember reading a post either from JB himself or some one right next to him that the geometry on this kit was all wrong. My thinking on that was this will never be a self-runner. I am hoping that it might get cleared up here what he meant by that statement.
I've played around with it quite a bit, but have not invested in much wire to put my ideas to the test. Too many other things going on.
The coil hence wire is everything aside from the geometry and switch.

Bro, I really like the last ckt layout you designed, very nice!

On the actual board - aren't those leads/wires too small/thin? Also, I couldn't tell where you put the rectifying diodes?
Thanks for sharing this build.
Kind Regards,
Patrick A.

Hi Patrick,
I'm on my way to church right now, but will give and share all info ASAP.
My next question is what was John B's amp draw at 10,000rpm.
I'll post this afternoon.
bro d

[brodonh]

Hi Bro,
Just noticed this thread. I have ricks window B kit.

[[What size are the mags on the B kit? Mine are 1x2x6"
I guessed that JB's are the same.
I havn't got any feedback from him on this.

How do you get great torque with it?

You can read that I've been getting some tips from TomC and JohnK.

So far I'm not close to what the vid shows.

He's claiming 10,000rpm at 36v input.

The best that I've seen so far is 1900 at 42v input.

My rotor is balanced but I left the grease in the bearings.]]

This looks like what you are trying to replicate. it's a great kit to run many experiments w/ and a great torque motor.
I am posting this comment in hopes of getting some feedback from John B. or someone else in the know.

[[I started this thread in hopes of getting some tips from JohnB.]]

I remember reading a post either from JB himself or some one right next to him that the geometry on this kit was all wrong. My thinking on that was this will never be a self-runner. I am hoping that it might get cleared up here what he meant by that statement.
I've played around with it quite a bit, but have not invested in much wire to put my ideas to the test. Too many other things going on.
The coil hence wire is everything aside from the geometry and switch.

Bro, I really like the last ckt layout you designed, very nice!

On the actual board - aren't those leads/wires too small/thin? Also, I couldn't tell where you put the rectifying diodes?

[[The wire leads are too thin and I redid the layout so it has a bridge in the middle.
I'll post that very soon.]]

Thanks for sharing this build.
Kind Regards,
Patrick A.

[[Thank you for your thank you,]]

bro d

[brodonh]

Redo of straight based WM cct