Building a window motor

[DadHav]

Always interested - looking at the number of views on your vids you might just have a "couple" of others interested as well :-)

for any newbies, that's sarcasm. Dadhav has millions of views!

My transparent motorcycle alum battery has finally settled to about 12V on the high side (that's right after a charge) and normally rests around 11.5 pretty cool no acid :-)

Kind regards - Patrick A.

Hi Patrick
My battery was badly damaged before I converted it and wouldn't hold a charge. I use it all the time now. Mine doesn't have the power or capacity of a fresh new LAB but you probably noticed the impedance is really different from the LAB. I find that my motors and circuits with higher winds run much better with the alum battery.
Take care.
John

[DadHav]

John!!

welcome back, your presence is always a bonus for us! would love to see a vid on your latest.

Tom C

Hello Tom,
It's good to hear from you. It's also nice to be around old friends. I just wanted to say hello and see if I could get some inspirations or new ideas.
Tanks Tom
John

[Tom C]

John,

I would say the device I have been enjoying the most is the Tesla Switch and the DVD it came on. you can do a screen capture, make the circuit board and have a running Circuit in no time. it works on a small scale. I found matched transistors really do help.

a pic or arduino version would be more stable that an SG3524 version, I went thru 3 of them before I found one that worked correctly on both sides. JB has already told me it can be done with a pic chip, just trying to find the time to learn pic.

I have been concentrating on my 3D printer for the last few weeks. learning 123D design, and relearning Gcode, which is what the printer uses, I learned it in my CNC machining days, a long time ago but the commands have not changed, they are slowly rising from the mist of my memory... I have a Delta printer so the X and Y go both ways pos and neg, you can have a code like G28 Z2 X100 -Y50 F5000 where Z zero is the print surface, there is no z negative, which is opposite most metal cnc programming...... and right now the radius steps are too big, need to get a different slicer program. currently all the arcs on my prints look a bit sawtoothed.


anyway good to have you back you guys inspire me!! there are so many great experimenters here, one day I hope to meet all of you.

Tom C

[DadHav]

John,

I would say the device I have been enjoying the most is the Tesla Switch and the DVD it came on. you can do a screen capture, make the circuit board and have a running Circuit in no time. it works on a small scale. I found matched transistors really do help.

a pic or arduino version would be more stable that an SG3524 version, I went thru 3 of them before I found one that worked correctly on both sides. JB has already told me it can be done with a pic chip, just trying to find the time to learn pic.

I have been concentrating on my 3D printer for the last few weeks. learning 123D design, and relearning Gcode, which is what the printer uses, I learned it in my CNC machining days, a long time ago but the commands have not changed, they are slowly rising from the mist of my memory... I have a Delta printer so the X and Y go both ways pos and neg, you can have a code like G28 Z2 X100 -Y50 F5000 where Z zero is the print surface, there is no z negative, which is opposite most metal cnc programming...... and right now the radius steps are too big, need to get a different slicer program. currently all the arcs on my prints look a bit sawtoothed.


anyway good to have you back you guys inspire me!! there are so many great experimenters here, one day I hope to meet all of you.

Tom C

Hello Tom, I've been resisting temptation on that printer thing. I still have a few computers laying around that have AutoCAD. SmartCam, and Solid Works on them. It's been probably two decades since I generated code from any of it though. The tesla switch sounds interesting but I'm working with Les Kraut right now trying to learn about Tesla coils. Since people started using the Slayer exciter type circuits it's really easy to get these things working. I even had some interesting results from running the Tesla coil setup from the stator motor and SSG circuit. I'm running my window motor from an AV plug receiving energy transmitted from the coil. I could probably post that video here since it's a window motor project. I'll talk to you guys later.
John

[OrthoParameter]

and right now the radius steps are too big, need to get a different slicer program. currently all the arcs on my prints look a bit sawtoothed.

Tom C

Hi Tom...I used to do a little gcode on a jewelers lathe....it's like programming in assembly language. Very powerful but so many lines of code!

I did a test last night in openscad to see the difference with smoothing on and smoothing off to see the difference in the gcode produced by a slicer.

The code for smoothing everything in the file is: $fn = 100;
The part made was a simple cylinder and the code for that is: cylinder(r = 10, h = 5);
That creates a cylinder with a radius of 10mm and a height or thickness of 5mm.

With smoothing turned on the gcode was double in size. I looked at it using WinDiff and it is all about the every line of code you make a move with.

If you use anything that can export .CSG (constructive solid geometry) files, openscad can import it and the smoothing command can be added to the beginning of the file.

Don't know if this will help you now but perhaps in the future. Openscad is very easy to learn compared to gcode and it comes with example files you can load and examine each line and see quite easily what it does. I would say that among all the programming languages I know and have used, this on is by far the simplest. There is no type checking whatsoever...it is very straightforward and produces exact and beautiful results.

[John_Koorn]

John,

I would say the device I have been enjoying the most is the Tesla Switch and the DVD it came on. you can do a screen capture, make the circuit board and have a running Circuit in no time. it works on a small scale. I found matched transistors really do help.

a pic or arduino version would be more stable that an SG3524 version, I went thru 3 of them before I found one that worked correctly on both sides. JB has already told me it can be done with a pic chip, just trying to find the time to learn pic.

I have been concentrating on my 3D printer for the last few weeks. learning 123D design, and relearning Gcode, which is what the printer uses, I learned it in my CNC machining days, a long time ago but the commands have not changed, they are slowly rising from the mist of my memory... I have a Delta printer so the X and Y go both ways pos and neg, you can have a code like G28 Z2 X100 -Y50 F5000 where Z zero is the print surface, there is no z negative, which is opposite most metal cnc programming...... and right now the radius steps are too big, need to get a different slicer program. currently all the arcs on my prints look a bit sawtoothed.


anyway good to have you back you guys inspire me!! there are so many great experimenters here, one day I hope to meet all of you.

Tom C

Hey Tom. You're right the Tesla Switch is fun. I have one working on a PIC. Ran for a week before the batteries dropped below 12.0v. Will post details on the TS thread

John K.

[Tom C]

Ortho,

not sure I am ready to learn another program, still working on learning 123D design. it spits out an STL file... I have 3 slicers, slice3r, cura and matter slice, matter slice is the one that is making it sawtoothed. just got my tricklazer carbon fiber arms in today, so the machine comes apart and gets new delta arms and an LED light ring. my purpose originally for buying this thing was to do a window motor frame and make some genny coil spools and make hall sensor brackets and timing discs I could offer everyone here on the forum. those are the hardest parts to get... and a printed timing disc would hold the tiny rectangle neo mags perfectly and make window motors easier to build for everyone.

perhaps we can collaborate on the drawings as that is my weak spot right now. if you are up to it we can start a new thread on 3D printed SG parts..

Tom C

[OrthoParameter]

Ortho,

not sure I am ready to learn another program, still working on learning 123D design. it spits out an STL file... I have 3 slicers, slice3r, cura and matter slice, matter slice is the one that is making it sawtoothed. just got my tricklazer carbon fiber arms in today, so the machine comes apart and gets new delta arms and an LED light ring. my purpose originally for buying this thing was to do a window motor frame and make some genny coil spools and make hall sensor brackets and timing discs I could offer everyone here on the forum. those are the hardest parts to get... and a printed timing disc would hold the tiny rectangle neo mags perfectly and make window motors easier to build for everyone.

perhaps we can collaborate on the drawings as that is my weak spot right now. if you are up to it we can start a new thread on 3D printed SG parts..

Tom C

Oh man! you got the trick laser arms and light ring...too cool!

I would be more than happy to work with you on that project. I already have code written to do just that very thing and more. All I have to do is plug in the numbers for the magSize, numMags, by angle or physical spacing, put a hub on it as shown in the picture or place bearing holders....whatever you need. Got this pretty much down to an art so..... start a thread, talk dimensions and I'm there.

[Aaron Murakami]

John, here it is from: http://www.energeticforum.com/john-b...tteries-2.html

@all, this is what I posted way back on Energetic Forum in Feb 22, 2007:

Bedini-Cole Window Motor Electric motor runs without draining batteries!!!

---

Hi everyone,

One of my passions is studying and building "free energy" technologies.
There are many misconceptions about this field and it is attacked by
people claiming anyone doing anything in this field are a bunch of
perpetual motion nuts.

The truth is that these technologies are very real and they also have
absolutely nothing to do with perpetual motion! I'm not getting into
the specifics in this message about the distinctions because this topic
is too important to focus on the misconceptions. Instead, lets shine some
light on an amazing recent release.

John Bedini is a world famous electrical engineer and is considered a
"Mozart" with electronics and especially in the field of audio components
because he builds he highest quality most crisp sounding audio amplifiers
known to man.

Besides the audio field, he also happens to be one of leading super
geniuses in the field of electromagnetic energizers and "radiant energy"
in general.

For over 11 years, he had many plans posted on his website for many
different versions of his motors and the "School Girl" motor is probably
the most popular and there are thousands around the world building
this motor achieving very exciting results that are supposed to be
impossible.

Besides this motor, there is one version called a "Bedini-Cole Window Motor"

This is what it looks like:



The plans have been given out to the world on this website:
http://www.icehouse.net/john1/motor.html

The schematics for this motor are here:



Watch a demo video: http://www.icehouse.net/john34/bedinicolemotor.mpg this is 12MB's long
so be patient or right click on the link and SAVE TARGET AS

You can visit John's homepage here: http://www.icehouse.net/john1

Be careful not to miss any links because they are scattered and
hidded all over his websites. There are many.

One time at John's shop, he hooked up a little battery to this motor
and it was so efficient it almost didn't register any amperage on the
meter while it was running. Also, I grabbed the shaft with my hand
and I couldn't even stop it!! It produces more torque for the least amount
of power out of any motor that I think has ever been released.

Anyway, Mike, an experimenter who did a small modification to the original
plans wound up with a more efficient Window Motor that runs itself and
keeps charging a capacitor charging up!

Here is what his looks like:



Here are the schematics / plans with the small modification:




Watch this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rl1dI9YCi8

How does it power itself???

That will be another discussion...but pass the link to this forum to your friends so we can
get the word out. I'm not just someone excited about this...I have built many, many Bedini
circuits and they all work as long as I build them according to his plans and not how I think
they should be built. I'll post a thread later with a very simple motor that beginners can get
their feet wet with..very simple stuff...a 10 year old girl built one so you can too!

[Aaron Murakami]

Analysis by John Bedini PART 1

Analysis by John Bedini PART 1

---

I'm posting some deductive reasoning by John Bedini that he posted
online. These are the keys to making it work properly and his comments
are an analysis on what Mike said about his modification of John's circuit.

----------------

Everbody read Mike's story it will help.

Everone just read mikes story
John


Hi Dom,

wind your coil yet?, look for about 6-8 ohms on the main winding this gives a large back EMF wich charges the cap quick at first.
I will try to attach the video of my window type motor now follow the first cct and yes trigger is smaller wire. The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery.Also I made a mistake the main winding on my motor is 46 ohms
so 40-60 ohms sorry about that .No in the video the motor was powered by capicitance only. no battery. Trifiler wound I must warn you though if you are thinking this is some sort of overunity it is not. If you add a load the motor will slowly come to a stop.

Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity (this is just what I think is hapening and I could be missing somthing here)


I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so. I am scared to leave it running unattended (a fire or explosion would not be good)the running voltage is higher when I give it a big spin by hand. so far every time I ran it the voltage has always leveled off some where bellow 12v or so my cap is good up to 25v
glad to here that you have started construction allright after tracing all the wires I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding.

Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.
you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unity.study the scope shots I posted and you will get an idea of timing. Two EMF spikes per cycle
I go back to work one more thing before I go, When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly. This link is very good http://www.fight-4-truth.com/Schematics.html must check it out

I learned alot from these illustrations, look at the commutator to see the timing , the bad news, I left my window motor running last night. Now it does not run at all. I will check all components after work.I feel very disapointed. OK back from work now I check the motor. I did a quick visual inspection and it looks OK and the cap holds a charge but when I turn the shaft it does not run, more checks.


I think the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them.
ps: looks like the hall ic is not working and also the PNP, the ss relay is fine, I have no more hall ic's and only a few PNP's.This suxs .

anyway I figured I would take some pictures of the stator and post soon This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile.
Scope shots were taken dirrectly off the coil. I will post more detail when I have my motor running again.I will scavenge up a hall ic from something.

I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity. i will swap the bad parts now and try to get it running again. As for the posistion of my flywheel magnets I will give that info later after I have finished my testing.
Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing. yes the original circuit will charge the cap my modification charged the cap from 0v faster
yes somthing is wrong with the cap. If I charge it with 12v it will not hold long and spark from discharge is week.Still looking for a hall ic any ideas where to find one 3030 also did anyone find this paticular cap I have only one and the place where I got it, BG Micro no longer has any.

maby another big cap will take its place. can run the motor now but only with battery power. back to where I started.

I will get a hall sw at the local IC Supply store in the morning. any body have a running motor yet I know Dom looked realy close to finished.


OK Stefan, on second look your circuit is correct. the ss relay on your circuit looked wrong but I see it now

I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.
still trying to get my motor to work correctly, It has prooven to be harder than I thought.
I will post new scope shots soon

I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.
It makes me happy to see another window motor running.now what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.
I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best. I get 2.8v ac spinning by hand try it with just the main coil to the bridge to the cap and see how fast you can charge the cap to 6v by hand and let me know your results
4.5v ac main winding
2.2v ac trigger winding
2.8 v ac third winding
stefan please show me were to place scope leeds on the diagram I posted Stefan please slow down the questions here are the scope shots you wanted

Main is top trace on both 1st shot is the main and trigger windings 2nd shot is the main and third windings I will do more tomorrow I am waiting for a hall ic so please be patient

OK guys I got the hall ic and the motor is working again here are the scope shots taken across cap neg. and ss relay output before diode.

scope set at 2v per div. at 10 ms per div. first shot is with hall sensor hooked up and the second is without it hooked up
I have posted my full circuit diagram allready. but here it is again. i found this to work best for my setup.

please follow it exactly making no changes so we can compare results taken across cap neg. and ss relay output before diode.
scope neg to cap neg no it will not run long without hall sensing. I pulled the hall output to ss relay, I spun it by hand for the scope shot (without hall ss relay)
Lets build and then compare results I am going to build another to the same specs and see if it performes the same.

When you get your motor to run on a battery, charge a cap off the bridge dc then time the ss relay to dump this charge back on the battery. when you get the correct timing the motor will draw little to no current from the battery. this will be the same timing for the moddified circuit. use three magnets in triangle formation.
Hope this helps

cheers mike

[Aaron Murakami]

Analysis by John Bedini PART 2

---

Now read the story this way now in red, You will see how everything gets confused by all the posts in between. This is something I learned in the military, how to get the answers. I did change the Neo magnets out in my motor and it does make a big difference, "so no neos" in this one please. Get the facts straight and you will build this motor. Focus on what Mike said or "Fail" . Do not assume anything , Mike is thinking out of the box, Neo Magnets suck in this motor, trigger circuit now works fine in my set up, Next the SS solid state switch.
John

<O
The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery<O</O
Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity
<O</O
<O</O
I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so.<O</O
I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding. <O</O
Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.<O</O
you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unity<O</O
When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.<O</O
I learned alot from these illustrations, look at the commutator to see the timing <O</O
I think the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. <O</O
This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile. <O</O
I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity.<O</O
Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing<O</O
I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.<O</O
I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.<O</O
what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<O</O
I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<O</O
-------------------------------------------------<O</O
Now read it this way.<O</O
John<O</O
<O</O
<O</O

The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 wind as much turns as possible try to get above 6 ohm. The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery. Dont worry about that for now just get it to run with a battery<O</O
Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity<O</O
I don't Know how long the motor can run for, but I always stop it after a few hours or so.I have come up with a diagram of the modification. and a close call, I had found the motor would not run after a couple wires were swiched around by accident. coil polarity is very important. yes same as Bedini/Cole.All components are the same except for the added parts a hall IC and a ss relay and also third winding. Main winding is connected at the collectors. follow Bedini/Cole cct great work.<O</O
you must get your window motor running,then we can talk about charge timing and unityWhen you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.<O</O
I learned alot from these illustrations, I think look at the commutator to see the timing the third winding is allways charging the cap the ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. This is not overunity, just a motor that can charge a cap and run off it for a wile. <O</O
I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity.Oh and the scope shots, the third winding shot scope is set to diffrent scope timing.<O</O
I know that the third winding charges the cap. and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge.<O</O
I just want to say that I have never claimed this to be overunity I think it is near unity the third winding charges the cap quickly and the motor runs of this charge for a long time not forever.<O</O
what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<O</O
I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<O</O

[Aaron Murakami]

Analysis by John Bedini PART 3

Analysis by John Bedini PART 3

---

Now read the story this way,
<o</o
The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 The circuit will need a battery for power source.. Their are some modifications needed for acheiving unity, then you can get rid of the battery Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity,but I always stop it after a few hours or so. look at the commutator to see the timing ,("""ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them""".) I don't know if all is needed for the circuit.I just know that this is how I got it to run longer. how long I dont know so far maby a couple hours. I belive it is working at or near unity. I know that the third winding charges the cap.("" and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge"").what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.<o</o
I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+,,monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.<o</o
-------------------------------------------------------
Now read the story this way, Do you all get it now.<o</o
John
The hall effect transistor is to activate sw1 I use a solid state relay for sw1 Yes feedback, and play with sw1 timing I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels..ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. I belive it is working at or near unity.I know that the third winding charges the cap.("" and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge"").what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods.
The answer.
ss relay puts the main winding in series with the third winding at the correct time, take into account the rectifier diode in between them. I belive it is working at or near unity.I know that the third winding charges the cap.("" and I think somthing coming through the ss relay helps this charge)<o</o

[Aaron Murakami]

Comments by Peter Lindemann

Comments by Peter Lindemann
COMMENT BY PETER LINDEMANN of www.free-energy.ws<o></o>
OK Everybody,<o></o>
<o></o>
John has explained the method Mike used to get his unit working, in Mike?s own words. Also, he has run the experiment and determined that the Ceramic Magnets work better. So, that?s it!<o></o>
<o></o>
It?s time to get serious about this project and standardize a design. These group verifications cannot be done properly with a ?hobby budget? mentality, where everybody just uses what they can afford or acquire easily. Get a list of components together that everybody can get. Decide on a wire size and the number of turns for each coil, so everybody can build the same thing. On this note, the biggest challenge may be finding a suitable replacement for the SS Relay. The part number that Mike calls for is no longer available.<o></o>
<o></o>
So, if Mike wants to come back and give all the specs on his model, that would be a good place to start. If this doesn?t happen right away, I suggest that John?s current model be the basis for this ?standardized design?. He has all the specs for it, the number of turns on the coils, the transistors, the magnets, the rotor hub size, etc. <o></o>
<o></o>
So from this point on, if you can actually get all of the parts for the standardized design and commit to the replication, then you can participate. If you can?t get the parts, don?t want to build a model right now, or don?t want to do it the way the group is proceeding, then please just watch quietly in the background and let the builders work it out!<o></o>
<o></o>
In keeping with this advice, since I am not building one right now, this is my last post.<o></o>
<o></o>
Good luck!!!<o></o>
<o></o>
Peter<o></o>

[Aaron Murakami]

Parts list and replication details

Parts list and replication details


Magnets: (looks like) double stacked rectangle radio shack mags every 60 degrees so total of 12


Spool body magnets attached to looks about 1.5” diameter


Power wire: 28 awg 700 feet
Trigger wire: 30 awg 400 feet
3<SUP>rd</SUP> wire: 30 awg 400 feet


Winding looks about 5-6” wide and about 4” tall


Capacitor: 47000 uf


2 X NPN Transistors: MPS 8099
1 X PNP Transistor: MPS 8599

1 X 10 ohm resistor
2 X 2.2k ohm resistor
1 X 3.3k ohm resistor
1 X 1N914 diode

1 X Bridge rectifier

1 X Hall Effect Transistor: Bipolar 3030 Hall IC

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Relay details:?????????????????????????????????????????? ??







Comments from Mike:

No in the video the motor was powered by capicitance only. no battery. Trifiler wound
I must warn you though if you are thinking this is some sort of overunity it is not.
If you add a load the motor will slowly come to a stop.

play with sw1 timing

**I must tell you I use the third winding on my stator coil as a generator winding to charge the cap up from 0v, then when the transistors begin to pulse the back emf through sw1 brings the voltage on the cap even higher till it levels and the motor is then runing at unity (this is just what I think is hapening and I could be missing somthing here)

you must get your window motor running,
then we can talk about charge timing and unity.
study the scope shots I posted and you will get an idea of timing. Two EMF spikes per cycle
When you go to run your motor have a AM radio close to the stator coil you should here two cracks brodcasted for every magnet pair passing. a quick way to tell if you are hooked up correctly.
I use (28 gauge .012 in. main), (30 gauge .010 in. trigger, generator)
I get a little over 40 ohms each
the main winding is longer than the generator and trigger windings. I did not count #turns sorry.
I must say that my stator coil is wider
i will post a picture of it soon

Direct measurements from mikes spun by hand:-

4.5v ac main winding
2.2v ac trigger winding
2.8 v ac third winding


now what I did after getting my motor to run without any mods-

I would use it to charge a second battery hopeing I could switch the batteries over and over and it would run for ever, this was not the case, then I found out that if I charged a large cap up with it the motor drew less current from the battery. this was with sw1 between cap+ and bat+

Troubleshooting Tips:-
monitor your input current with diffrent caps to see what works best.

@dom I get 2.8v ac spinning by hand

try it with just the main coil to the bridge to the cap and see how fast you can charge the cap to 6v by hand and let me know your results


-Mike mentioned just use main coil and see if you get spikes coming only from that, but I'm not sure if that would work since i have the trigger coil disconnected, I'll try anyway.


Lets build and then compare results
I am going to build another to the same specs and see if it performes the same.

When you get your motor to run on a battery, charge a cap off the bridge dc then time the ss relay to dump this charge back on the battery. when you get the correct timing the motor will draw little to no current from the battery. this will be the same timing for the moddified circuit. use three magnets in triangle formation.

Hope this helps

cheers mike

[Aaron Murakami]

07-19-2015, 10:26 PM

John_Bedini Silver Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Hayden Lake, ID, USA Posts: 914

May Have found it Ok, sometimes you must walk away from things for a long time and just let things fester in your head. If you look at the circuit diagram Mike posted you will see something that I may have overlooked. I don’t know why I missed it, could have been thinking about something else. When I hooked a small battery in place of mikes ss circuit the motor ran as normal. That is why I came to the conclusion that mike hid a battery in the ss relay. So now back to the circuit, if you look you will see that when the switch is on the two coils make up an Autoformer, this type of device builds voltage without changing the impedance of the driving coil so the driving coil does not see the load of the capacitor the Autoformer works like a basic car spark coil. The only reason I say this is I had a job with some radio circuits where I had to make this type of transformer to supply the load of the antenna without effecting the transmitter. Amplifiers in the 70’s used these transformers (Mcintosh) you could short the amp out and nothing would happen. I have experimented with this type of transformer and it is possible to build a Window Motor to run like this but you cannot take any power from it, Unity. I know this is late timing but at least I have posted it. John B