Four Wave Mixing

[vallentin]

Timer for the daily session

Just in case anyone need it.
Velleman k2579 small size timer, up to 60 minutes delay.
55mA draw.


I will post the PCB for it soon.

An advanced/programmable version k8015

[vallentin]

Construction progress


Few parts to go...
I'll get them next week ( if I'm lucky to find them).
Time to go to sleep!

[blackchisel97]

Very nice job Valentin. I noticed thin outline trace going around and very close to couple soldering points. Make sure it won't short them.

Thanks for sharing

Vtech

[vallentin]

Outline is gone (already cut the surplus). It's there only as a marker to know where to cut.
I had to print & reprint the PCB a couple of times until I got it right.
Because I noticed something weird about the press-and-peel paper.
Mine is about 10 years old and I still have a couple of papers left. Man, these are way old!
I didn't know that they degrade in time and won't cook right under the iron. It must turn pink when it's done and cooked right. And it didn't.
So I ended up doing my PCB with Chartpak drafting film.
Same age, but way much better!
Tomorrow I will try a couple of PCB's on photo paper & glossy and let you guys know how it goes and what gives best results.
Using this:

Peace!

[vallentin]

Done experimenting with PCB making.
I found out that even as it is degraded by age, press-and-peel paper offers by far the best results (so I'm going to order some more - blue type this time).
Followed by film ,glossy or photo paper.
Also, you get great results by using vinyl sticker or print screen vinyl but I have none to experiment with right now. Outdoor cricut vinyl or Oracal 651.
Here are the end results in their respective order:
- press-and peel paper (Mactac) (mine is 10 years old)
- Drafting film (Chartpak)
- Glossy paper
Sorry for the glare

Iron temperature must be set to polyester (~150 Celsius). Don't use steam!
Time of ironing can vary depending on your PCB size between 2-10 minutes.
For paper, after you're done ironing, put some soapy water on it and wait for the pcb traces to appear.
Then put the board under cold water and peel the paper.

[blackchisel97]

Hello. The right transformers arrived today for John's device. The one for Brain Synchronizer I already replaced on Friday. Wave form is very similar which means the audio trafo I had before was not much different. I see the flashes of light when connected near temporal mandibular joint (TMJ). Would love to know the pulse rate of the oscillators 4 and 5. I can calculate them from the values but they all have some tolerance.
That's all I can do tonight. Have to get up at 4am.

Thanks
Vtech

[vallentin]

Good man!
All you need to do now is to test it on some bugs. It looks like you're the first here closest to the finished machine.
I too like to know the right freq. for IC4, 5 and 6.
Also, the right capacitor value for IC4.
On first page John gives a value, on the schematic is an another value. Which is the one?
I still wait for the transformer...
I borrowed my son's microscope to test it on some amoebas when I'm done.

[blackchisel97]

I redraw John's circuit for better clarity. Hope you don't mind John. If you have a chance and could chime in about those values it would be great. I couldn't attend the conference and ask in person so I can only rely on YT clips and schematics.


I did measure total power consumption and I'm getting close to 380mA at 12VDC. I'm going to use carbon fiber gel electrodes for Dr Beck devices but still need to source the right ones for this unit, according to John recommendation.
I was hoping to save for decent microscope, something in range of x1700 - x2000 but just ordered electrodes, conductive gel, cables and bought Fluke multimeter and... my back pocket bank is empty.
Valentin, I used 47n for IC4 and I'm getting 153Hz (or repetitions per second) at d.c approx. 50%. Not sure if this is right since there is already one oscillator running the same - IC2.
IC5 with those values from the schematics runs at 7kHz d.c 50%. IC6 will run from about 730Hz up to about 420kHz. John indicated to run as high as possible.
As I mentioned before, my IC2 and IC3 refused to work at R1 value=50 Ohms but there was no problem at 120 Ohms and frequency can be adjusted to 50 and 150Hz anyway. Duty cycle remains the same - about 50%.

There is online calculator for 555 mono and astable timers - http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/LM555.html#2

Thanks
Vtech

[vallentin]

Thanks man!
My bet is on 4.7nF. 1.5kHz
And by watching the yt clips, I am sure now that a tiny bit of the left part of the schematic is missing.
Letter/A4 conversion gone bad.
So it could be 150 Ohms, not 50. Thanks for your input on this.
Also, correct me if I'm wrong: the 470K series with 1Meg pot. (IC7) seems to be 47K for 8Hz. Not 470 (0.7Hz).
I will see on Friday when I plan to tune the frequencies and add the 10k resistors. I also ordered 150 ohm resistors to replace the 50 ohms. Just in case...
Where did you get your carbon fiber electrodes and clips from?
For the 4 waves circuit I just put aside 2 big silver coins:

[blackchisel97]

Thanks man!
My bet is on 4.7nF. 1.5kHz
And by watching the yt clips, I am sure now that a tiny bit of the left part of the schematic is missing.
Letter/A4 conversion gone bad.
So it could be 150 Ohms, not 50. Thanks for your input on this.
Also, correct me if I'm wrong: the 470K series with 1Meg pot. (IC7) seems to be 47K for 8Hz. Not 470 (0.7Hz).
I will see on Friday when I plan to tune the frequencies and add the 10k resistors. I also ordered 150 ohm resistors to replace the 50 ohms. Just in case...
Where did you get your carbon fiber electrodes and clips from?
For the 4 waves circuit I just put aside 2 big silver coins:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1161[/ATTACH]

Yes Valentin, you're correct. Just checked my circuit and I have 0.22uF there. It will allow to tune to 7 pps. With 2uF will not go that high, only 0.2 -0.7 pps. Also, reducing R2 to 47k will work.
I agree with you on IC4 values.

I got carbon fiber electrodes and wires here - Breeze Brand TENS Accessories

Thanks
Vtech

[vallentin]

Thank you!

[vallentin]

SMD medmachine (~12 x7cm)

Done with photo-paper & 2 minutes of ironing.
Skipped the col water and drop of detergent part.
Just let it cool by itself and then gently peel the paper.
I'll give it a try this week.
Nap time!

[blackchisel97]

Good job Valentin. I'll mount mine on IC proto pcb when I'm done with all unknown variables. Pack of six boards cost me less than etch resistant pen so the choice was simple. I was busy today with negative ion circuit and hope to get copper arrays done tomorrow. ZVS driver works like a charm.

Thanks
Vtech

[vallentin]

Thanks, Vtech.
I'm gonna try the SMD version because the parts are 40-50% cheaper and readily available. This version is meant for my personal use...
Etch resistant pen? You don't need it.
Any glossy paper will do. Even those already printed. Leaflets, magazines etc.
After you iron the pcb on your board, 99,99 percent of your toner will adhere to the board. Along with minute traces of cooked clay (from the glossy substrate).
These will form a strong and thick bond to your PCB.
No pen correction needed. 3 minutes of work+etching time. Cheap of the cheap.

I made the Mazilli ZVS circuit this summer for my son's school project (a Jacobs ladder).
It draws quite a lot of current (10-12A, so battery power is out of the question). You need very good quality capacitors (they heat up like crazy) and a capable transformer.
And because of that, I don't think you can use it non-stop. This circuit generate plasma (and a lot of it), not corona.
Long time ago I've seen a negative ions generator made with interlocked metallic combs and of course, the classic 555 driver.
I will pay a visit to my friend to ask him the whereabouts of his generator. Maybe we're in luck.
Regards,

[blackchisel97]

Hi Valentin. I was always using pen to draw my pcb's and I'm comfortable with it. I don't use software for that either. It's been long time but I can still do it
My ZVS draws 0.347mA at 15VDC supply. Of course, I can push much harder but for this particular project I want just the tips of my jets to glow, not purple streamers. I'm not after large amount of ozone but negative ion breeze. I had it running last night for couple hours and everything is cool. I'm switching with almost no losses at resonance point. That's the beauty of it.

Thanks
Vtech

Perhaps better way would be to use carbon fiber electrodes instead of metal. Will try both.